Whitening efficacy of plant extracts including orchid extracts on Japanese female skin with melasma and lentigo senilis

Different therapeutic approaches in melasma: advances and limitations

Melasma is a chronic hyperpigmentation skin disorder that is more common in the female gender. Although melasma is a multifactorial skin disorder, however, sun-exposure and genetic predisposition are considered as the main etiologic factors in melasma occurrence. Although numerous topical and systemic therapeutic agents and also non-pharmacologic procedural treatments have been considered in melasma management, however, the commonly available therapeutic options have several limitations including the lack of sufficient clinical effectiveness, risk of relapse, and high rate of unwanted adverse drug reactions. Recruitment of nanotechnology for topical drug delivery in melasma management can lead to enhanced skin penetration, targeted drug delivery to the site of action, longer deposition at the targeted area, and limit systemic absorption and therefore systemic availability and adverse drug reactions. In the current review, first of all, the etiology, pathophysiology, and severity classification of melasma have been considered. Then, various pharmacologic and procedural therapeutic options in melasma treatment have been discussed. Afterward, the usage of various types of nanoparticles for the purpose of topical drug delivery for melasma management was considered. In the end, numerous clinical studies and controlled clinical trials on the assessment of the effectiveness of these novel topical formulations in melasma management are summarized.

Successful treatment of solar lentigines by topical application of stabilized cysteamine: A vehicle-controlled, double-blind randomized study

Background

Solar lentigines are common hyperpigmented lesions typically appearing after 50 years of age and associated with negative psychological effects in affected individuals. Topical depigmenting products, such as hydroquinone and even the Kligman's formula, are usually ineffective for treating lentigines. Stabilized cysteamine has been recently shown to be as effective as the modified Kligman's formula for treating melasma. In this study, we evaluated the therapeutic effect of a stabilized cysteamine on solar lentigines.

Methods

A vehicle-controlled, double-blind, and randomized study was performed on 30 patients with solar lentigines. Stabilized cysteamine or vehicle control creams were applied on solar lentigines on the dorsum of the hands daily for 12 weeks. Clinical measurements with colorimetry and visual analog scale were performed at baseline, 4, 8, and 12 weeks.

Results

Statistically significant results were obtained in the cysteamine group versus the vehicle control group. Stabilized cysteamine provided a 40% reduction in colorimetric values (p < 0.002) versus a 2% reduction in the vehicle group (p < 0.405). Cysteamine also provided a 40% reduction in VAS (p < 0.001) versus a 2% reduction in the vehicle group (p < 0.245).

Conclusion

Significant improvement of solar lentigines was observed after 12 weeks of application of stabilized cysteamine by all evaluation methods. Stabilized cysteamine represents a highly effective topical treatment for solar lentigines and can be considered as one of the first topical therapies effective on this hyperpigmentary disorder.

The Impact of Antioxidants on Vitiligo and Melasma: A Scoping Review and Meta-Analysis

Reactive oxygen species (ROS) generated during melanogenesis make melanocytes particularly vulnerable to oxidative stress, influencing their survival and melanin synthesis. Oxidative stress, significantly present in vitiligo and recently also detected in melasma, triggers inflammatory cascades and melanogenesis, making antioxidants a promising therapeutic avenue. A systematic search was conducted on Embase and Pubmed to study the efficacy of antioxidants for treating vitiligo and/or melasma. Meta-analysis was performed to assess the difference in Melasma Severity Index (MASI) scores between baseline and follow-up. Various antioxidants like polypodium leucotomos, ginkgo biloba, catalase/superoxide dismutase, and vitamin E have potential in vitiligo. For melasma, vitamin C, silymarin, and niacinamide were among those showing promise in reducing pigmentation, with vitamin C displaying significant effects in meta-analysis. Different antioxidants improve both vitiligo and melasma, with an increased minimal erythema dose (MED) following UV exposure being significant for vitiligo and tyrosinase inhibition being crucial for melasma. However, the efficacy of individual antioxidants varies, and their exact mechanisms, especially in stimulating melanocyte proliferation and anti-inflammatory pathways, require further investigation to understand better and optimize their use.

Understanding Melasma-How Can Pharmacology and Cosmetology Procedures and Prevention Help to Achieve Optimal Treatment Results? A Narrative Review

Melasma is a chronic skin condition that involves the overproduction of melanin in areas exposed to ultraviolet radiation. Melasma treatment is long-term and complicated with recurrence and resistance to treatment. The pathogenesis of melasma is highly complex with multiple pathologies occurring outside of the skin pigment cells. It includes photoaging, excessive melanogenesis, an increased number of mast cells, increased vascularization, and basement membrane damage. In addition, skin lesions related to melasma and their surrounding skin have nearly 300 genes differentially expressed from healthy skin. Traditionally, melasma was treated with topical agents, including hydroquinone, tretinoin, glucocorticosteroids and various formulations; however, the current approach includes the topical application of a variety of substances, chemical peels, laser and light treatments, mesotherapy, microneedling and/or the use of systemic therapy. The treatment plan for patients with melasma begins with the elimination of risk factors, strict protection against ultraviolet radiation, and the topical use of lightening agents. Hyperpigmentation treatment alone can be ineffective unless combined with regenerative methods and photoprotection. In this review, we show that in-depth knowledge associated with proper communication and the establishment of a relationship with the patient help to achieve good adherence and compliance in this long-term, time-consuming and difficult procedure.

The Application of Skin Care Product in Melasma Treatment

Melasma is an acquired and chronic hyperpigmentation disorder which is recognized as one of the most psychologically distressing and difficult to cure forms of skin hyperpigmentation. It is associated with substantial quality of life impairments. Treatments of melasma include local application, oral medication, physical laser therapy and program combination therapy. However, routine treatment usually leads to the damage of skin barrier function, resulting in adverse reactions such as erythema, pruritus, post-inflammatory pigmentation and even scar. Skin care products contain a variety of active ingredients, which are widely concerned by cosmetic dermatologists because of high safety, good tolerance and the effect of improving the damaged skin barrier. Using skin care products alone or in combination with routine treatment not only can improve the curative effect for melasma, reduce side effects and recurrence rate, but also improve patient satisfaction. This article mainly describes the application of skin care products in the treatment of melasma.

The pathogenesis of melasma and implications for treatment

BACKGROUND

Melasma is a complex and poorly understood disorder, with high rates of treatment failure and recurrences.

OBJECTIVES

We aimed to review the current knowledge of the pathogenesis of melasma and apply this knowledge to clinical implications on relevant therapeutic interventions.

METHODS

A systematic PubMed search was performed using the search term "((melasma[Text Word]) OR facial melanosis[Text Word]) AND (pathogenesis OR causality[MeSH Terms])" for articles published between 1990 and 2020. Included articles were then evaluated by two authors and assessed for relevant pathomechanistic pathways, after which they were divided into groups with minimal overlap. We then reviewed current treatment modalities for melasma and divided them according to the involved pathomechanistic pathway.

RESULTS

A total of 309 search results were retrieved among which 76 relevant articles were identified and reviewed. Five main pathomechanisms observed in melasma were identified: (1) melanocyte inappropriate activation; (2) aggregation of melanin and melanosomes in dermis and epidermis; (3a) increased mast cell count and (3b) solar elastosis; (4) altered basement membrane; and (5) increased vascularization. Treatment modalities were then divided based on these five pathways and detailed in 6 relevant tables.

CONCLUSION

The pathophysiology of melasma is multifactorial, resulting in treatment resistance and high recurrence rates. This wide variety of pathomechanisms should ideally be addressed separately in the treatment regimen in order to maximize results.

Advantages of Hyaluronic Acid and Its Combination with Other Bioactive Ingredients in Cosmeceuticals

This study proposes a review on hyaluronic acid (HA) known as hyaluronan or hyaluronate and its derivates and their application in cosmetic formulations. HA is a glycosaminoglycan constituted from two disaccharides (N-acetylglucosamine and D-glucuronic acid), isolated initially from the vitreous humour of the eye, and subsequently discovered in different tissues or fluids (especially in the articular cartilage and the synovial fluid). It is ubiquitous in vertebrates, including humans, and it is involved in diverse biological processes, such as cell differentiation, embryological development, inflammation, wound healing, etc. HA has many qualities that recommend it over other substances used in skin regeneration, with moisturizing and anti-ageing effects. HA molecular weight influences its penetration into the skin and its biological activity. Considering that, nowadays, hyaluronic acid has a wide use and a multitude of applications (in ophthalmology, arthrology, pneumology, rhinology, aesthetic medicine, oncology, nutrition, and cosmetics), the present study describes the main aspects related to its use in cosmetology. The biological effect of HA on the skin level and its potential adverse effects are discussed. Some available cosmetic products containing HA have been identified from the brand portfolio of most known manufacturers and their composition was evaluated. Further, additional biological effects due to the other active ingredients (plant extracts, vitamins, amino acids, peptides, proteins, saccharides, probiotics, etc.) are presented, as well as a description of their possible toxic effects.

Combination treatment algorithm for pigmentary disorders of the face: A prospective observational study in Asian patients

BACKGROUND

Most patients with facial pigmentary disorders have multiple disorders. However, there is no definitive treatment algorithm improving various pigmentary disorders simultaneously.

OBJECTIVES

To investigate the clinical efficacy and safety of the combination of the Q-switched alexandrite and the carbon dioxide lasers with ZO SKIN HEALTH^Ⓡ for facial pigmentary disorders.

PATIENTS/METHODS

This prospective observational study enrolled 251 patients with at least one facial pigmentary disorder. We assessed treatment efficacy and investigated which disorders were most responsive to combination treatment and the relationship between doctors' skills, outcomes, and dropout rates.

RESULTS

There were 246 patients with lentigo senilis, 186 with moles, 79 with melasma, 53 with seborrheic keratosis, 17 with acquired dermal melanocytosis (ADM), and 16 with freckles. Overall, 227 patients completed treatment. Post-treatment outcomes were excellent in 97, good in 113, fair in 17, and poor in 0 patients. Freckles were the most responsive, and ADM was the least responsive. Patient withdrawal and treatment outcomes did not differ significantly based on the doctors' skills. Overall, 3.2% of patients had adverse events.

CONCLUSIONS

Our combination algorithm improved several pigmentary disorders of the face simultaneously, regardless of the doctors' proficiency level.

Treatment of melasma: a review of less commonly used antioxidants

Melasma, a common cause for seeking dermatologic care, is a chronic condition of skin hyperpigmentation. With a poorly understood pathogenesis, and no universal cure, melasma is a challenge for many dermatologists. For decades, there has been investigation into the role of oxidative stress in melasma. In this literature review, we introduce the role of oxidative stress in melasma and discuss the function of various topical and oral antioxidant therapies for patients suffering from melasma. Numerous studies have shown efficacy of various antioxidant therapies for treatment of hyperpigmentation, and in this review, we focus primarily on those with less widespread use. Vitamin E, niacinamide, polypodium leucotomos, pycnogenol, grape seed extract, amino fruit acids, phytic acid, zinc, silymarin, Korean red ginseng powder, plant extracts, and parsley all have well-demonstrated evidence of antioxidant properties, and these substances have been studied in the context of skin hyperpigmentation. Although there is conflicting evidence of their therapeutic efficacy, the use of these naturally occurring substances is promising for patients and medical providers seeking alternative therapeutic options.

Polyphenol Characterization and Skin-Preserving Properties of Hydroalcoholic Flower Extract from Himantoglossum robertianum (Orchidaceae)

Himantoglossum robertianum (Loisel.) P. Delforge is a Mediterranean orchid whose propagation in vitro has been achieved, making it eligible as a source of bioactive substances. Flowers were analyzed by light and SEM microscopy and used to obtain a polyphenol-rich, hydroalcoholic flower extract (HFE). HFE was characterized for total phenols, flavonoids and proanthocyanidins, and for polyphenol profile by RP-LC-DAD. Antioxidant assays, in vitro collagenase and elastase inhibition, and MTT and cell motility assays on HaCaT keratinocytes were done. Microscopy showed epidermal cells containing anthocyanins in the flower labellum. Flavonoids (flavones and flavan-3-ols) represented the most abundant compounds (42.91%), followed by scopoletin (33.79%), and phenolic acids (23.3%). Antioxidant assays showed strong activities, rating ORAC > FRAP > TEAC > β-carotene bleaching > DPPH > iron-chelation. Biological assays showed elastase and collagenase inhibition (up to 42% and 78%, respectively), improvement of HaCaT cell viability after treatment with 500 μM H₂O₂ (from 30% to 84% of control), and stimulation of cell migration rate up to 210% of control. In summary, HFE counteracted different free radicals, while protective properties were shown by cell-free and cell-based bioassays, suggesting the possible use of H. robertianum flowers for skin-preserving, repair, and anti-aging applications.

Medical Management of Melasma: A Review with Consensus Recommendations by Indian Pigmentary Expert Group

Melasma is one of the most common hyperpigmentary disorders found mainly in women and dark-skinned patients. Sunlight, hormones, pregnancy, and genetics remain the most implicated in the causation of melasma. Although rather recalcitrant to treatment, topical agents such as hydroquinone, modified Kligman's Regime, azelaic acid, kojic acid, Vitamin C, and arbutin still remain the mainstay of therapy with sun protection being a cornerstone of therapy. There are several new botanical and non botanical agents and upcoming oral therapies for the future. There is a lack of therapeutic guidelines, more so in the Indian setup. The article discusses available evidence and brings forward a suggested treatment algorithm by experts from Pigmentary Disorders Society (PDS) in a collaborative discussion called South Asian Pigmentary Forum (SPF).

Evidence-based Review, Grade of Recommendation, and Suggested Treatment Recommendations for Melasma

Treatment of melasma is known to be less satisfactory, often incomplete, and relapse is frequent. Although many treatment options are available, they are either known to be unsafe on long-term use or their long-term safety profile is unknown. Patients often use various drugs, even topical steroid-based preparation without any medical supervision for long period of time, making the skin unsuitable for many of the drugs available. Thus, there has been gross disparity among the treating physician about what drugs and what regimen are best suitable for various categories of melasma patients and in different situations. With this background, numerous newer drugs, mostly combinations of some proprietary molecules or even unknown plant extracts, have flooded the market for the management of melasma. Information on efficacy or safety of these products are almost unknown. Studies on Asian people, especially Indian population, are far less commonly available. Therapeutic guideline for use on Indian patients with melasma is almost missing. Extrapolation of data from Caucasian people for use on Asian people may not be scientifically justifiable because Caucasian and Asian people are known to have inherent difference in their response as well as tolerance to the drugs used for melasma. With this background, we have extensively evaluated, following a strict, scientifically designed protocol, all the available studies on melasma management till May 2016 and prepared this document on level of evidence, grade of recommendation and suggested therapeutic guideline for melasma as per the method proposed by Oxford Centre of Evidence-Based Medicine. Various ethical, social, logical, regional, and economic issues in the context of Indian and similar populations were given due importance while preparing the suggested therapeutic recommendation.

Melasma update

Melasma is an acquired pigmentary disorder characterized by symmetrical hyperpigmented macules on the face. Its pathogenesis is complex and involves the interplay of various factors such as genetic predisposition, ultraviolet radiation, hormonal factors, and drugs. An insight into the pathogenesis is important to devise treatment modalities that accurately target the disease process and prevent relapses. Hydroquinone remains the gold standard of treatment though many newer drugs, especially plant extracts, have been developed in the last few years. In this article, we review the pathogenetic factors involved in melasma. We also describe the newer treatment options available and their efficacy. We carried out a PubMed search using the following terms “melasma, pathogenesis, etiology, diagnosis, treatment” and have included data of the last few years.

The use of botanically derived agents for hyperpigmentation: a systematic review

BACKGROUND

Hyperpigmentation disorders are common among those seeking care from dermatologists and primary care physicians. The cosmeceutical and natural product industries are rapidly growing and many botanical agents are purported to improve hyperpigmentation disorders.

OBJECTIVE

We sought to review clinical evidence for the use of botanical agents in the treatment of hyperpigmentation.

METHODS

We searched MEDLINE and Embase databases and a total of 26 articles met inclusion criteria. Study methodology was analyzed and the reproducibility of the studies was graded.

RESULTS

Several botanical agents appear promising as treatment options but few studies were methodologically rigorous. Several plant extract and phytochemicals effectively lighten signs of epidermal melasma and hyperpigmentation induced by ultraviolet radiation exposure. Results were mixed for treatment of solar lentigines or dermal hyperpigmentation.

LIMITATIONS

There were few rigorously designed studies; future research will be critical to further ascertain the discussed results.

CONCLUSIONS

The subtype of hyperpigmentation is important for treatment prognosis, with dermal hyperpigmentation less responsive to treatment. Botanical extracts may play an integrative role in the treatment of hyperpigmentation and further studies that integrate them with standard therapies are needed. Side effects, including worsened hyperpigmentation, need to be discussed when considering these therapies.

Cosmeceuticals for Hyperpigmentation: What is Available?

Cosmeceuticals are topical cosmetic-pharmaceutical hybrids that enhance the beauty through constituents that provide additional health-related benefit. Cosmeceuticals are commonly used for hyperpigmentation. These disorders are generally difficult to treat, hence the need for skin lightening agents including, cosmeceuticals. These agents selectively target hyperplastic melanocytes and inhibit key regulatory steps in melanin synthesis. With the recent safety concern regarding use of hydroquinone, the need for alternative natural, safe and efficacious skin lightening agents is becoming all the more necessary and the article attempts to look at other alternative cosmeceuticals available or maybe upcoming in the future. We carried out a PUBMED search using the following terms “cosmeceuticals, hyperpigmentation, skin lightening agents.” We cited the use of various agents used for the treatment of hyperpigmentation, mainly melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. We describe the safety and efficacy of these agents and their advantage over the conventional therapy.