Neuroprotective effects of a new skin care formulation following ultraviolet exposure

Evaluating Potentials of Species Rich Taxonomic Groups in Cosmetics and Dermatology: Clustering and Dispersion of Skin Efficacy of Asteraceae and Ranunculales Plants on the Species Phylogenetic Tree

BACKGROUND

The medicinal properties of plants can be predicted by virtue of phylogenetic methods, which nevertheless have not been utilized to explore the regularity of skin-related bioactivities of ethnomedicinal plants. We aim to investigate the distribution of skin efficacy of Asteraceae and Ranunculales plants on the species-level Tree of Life.

METHODS

The clinical efficacy data of 551 ethnomedicinal species belonging to Ranunculales, as well as 579 ethnomedicinal species of Asteraceae, were systematically collected and collated; these therapeutic data fell into 15 categories, including skin disease/cosmeceutical. The large phylogenetic tree of all China angiosperm species was used to detect the phylogenetic signals of ethnomedicinal plants by calculating the D statistic, phylogenetic diversity (PD), net relatedness index (NRI), and nearest taxon index (NTI). Of all Chinese ethnomedicinal plants of Ranunculales and Asteraceae, 339 (61.5% of all ethnomedicinal species) and 382 (66.0% of all) are used for skin problems. In Ranunculales, a clustered structure was suggested by the NRI value for skin uses. In Asteraceae, the skin utility was not clustered; Artemisia, Aster, Cremanthodium, Ligularia, and Saussurea are the most used Asteraceae genera for skin issues.

RESULTS

The clustering structure was identified in Artemisia, and the skin efficacy in other genera was of overdispersion (NRI < 0). NTI values and D statistics largely agree with NRI. When compared with PD values of different therapeutic categories, the PD value of the skin category was relatively high in Cremanthodium, Ranunculales, Asteraceae, and Artemisia, suggesting the enormous efficacy space in the new taxa of these taxonomic groups.

CONCLUSION

By resolving the distribution of therapeutic effects of Ranunculales/Asteraceae taxa, the importance of phylogenetic methods in mining botanical resources with skin utilities is validated.

Repurposing INCI-registered compounds as skin prebiotics for probiotic Staphylococcus epidermidis against UV-B

Repurposing existing compounds for new indications may facilitate the discovery of skin prebiotics which have not been well defined. Four compounds that have been registered by the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) were included to study their abilities to induce the fermentation of Staphylococcusepidermidis (S. epidermidis), a bacterial species abundant in the human skin. Liquid coco-caprylate/caprate (LCC), originally used as an emollient, effectively initiated the fermentation of S. epidermidis ATCC 12228, produced short-chain fatty acids (SCFAs), and provoked robust electricity. Application of LCC plus electrogenic S. epidermidis ATCC 12228 on mouse skin significantly reduced ultraviolet B (UV-B)-induced injuries which were evaluated by the formation of 4-hydroxynonenal (4-HNE), cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPD), and skin lesions. A S. epidermidis S2 isolate with low expressions of genes encoding pyruvate dehydrogenase (pdh), and phosphate acetyltransferase (pta) was found to be poorly electrogenic. The protective action of electrogenic S. epidermidis against UV-B-induced skin injuries was considerably suppressed when mouse skin was applied with LCC in combination with a poorly electrogenic S. epidermidis S2 isolate. Exploring new indication of LCC for promoting S. epidermidis against UV-B provided an example of repurposing INCI-registered compounds as skin prebiotics.