Antioxidants add protection to a broad-spectrum sunscreen

Plant Secondary Metabolites against Skin Photodamage: Mexican Plants, a Potential Source of UV-Radiation Protectant Molecules

Human skin works as a barrier against the adverse effects of environmental agents, including ultraviolet radiation (UVR). Exposure to UVR is associated with a variety of harmful effects on the skin, and it is one of the most common health concerns. Solar UVR constitutes the major etiological factor in the development of cutaneous malignancy. However, more than 90% of skin cancer cases could be avoided with appropriate preventive measures such as regular sunscreen use. Plants, constantly irradiated by sunlight, are able to synthesize specialized molecules to fight against UVR damage. Phenolic compounds, alkaloids and carotenoids constitute the major plant secondary metabolism compounds with relevant UVR protection activities. Hence, plants are an important source of molecules used to avoid UVR damage, reduce photoaging and prevent skin cancers and related illnesses. Due to its significance, we reviewed the main plant secondary metabolites related to UVR protection and its reported mechanisms. In addition, we summarized the research in Mexican plants related to UV protection. We presented the most studied Mexican plants and the photoprotective molecules found in them. Additionally, we analyzed the studies conducted to elucidate the mechanism of photoprotection of those molecules and their potential use as ingredients in sunscreen formulas.

Photoprotection for skin of all color: Consensus and clinical guidance from an expert panel

The negative effects of sun exposure have become better accepted among health care professionals and the lay public over recent decades. Most attention has been focused on the effects of UV light, particularly UVB wavelengths (290-320 nm). Accordingly, products to protect skin from sunlight-associated harm (sunscreens) have been developed to minimize UVB exposure. The effects of longer wavelengths, including UVA (320-400 nm) and visible light (VL, 400-700 nm), are increasingly appreciated. VL accounts for approximately half of the solar radiation that reaches the earth's surface and understanding of its effects on the skin is improving. Studies have shown that VL can induce hyperpigmentation in individuals with dark skin types (Fitzpatrick skin types IV-VI). In addition, VL can contribute to the exacerbation of pigmentary disorders, including melasma. Because these findings are relatively new, there are gaps in understanding the needs for photoprotection and guidance for clinicians. A panel of dermatologists and photobiologists was convened to develop consensus recommendations and clinical guidance about sunscreen use relevant to the current understanding of risks associated with sun exposure using a modified Delphi method.

Ascorbic acid 2-glucoside: An ascorbic acid pro-drug with longer-term antioxidant efficacy in skin

OBJECTIVE

Deleterious effects of pollutants and ultraviolet radiation on the skin can be attenuated using formulations containing antioxidants. However, these have disadvantages, including chemical instability, photodegradation, poor bioavailability or biological activity. Here, two commercial formulations were evaluated: one optimized to stabilize and deliver ascorbic acid (AA) at 15% and the other containing a glucoside form of AA, namely ascorbic acid 2-glucoside (AA2G), at 1.8% and at a physiological pH. We compared the skin delivery, antioxidative effects and chemical stability of AA2G with AA in their respective formulations.

METHODS

Skin delivery was measured using fresh viable human skin explants, and oxidative stress was measured using a human reconstructed epidermal (RHE) model according to levels of malondialdehyde (MDA), superoxide dismutase (SOD) and catalase.

RESULTS

Ascorbic acid 2-glucoside was completely metabolized to AA by the skin before entering the receptor compartment. The skin contained parent and AA, indicating a reserve of AA2G was present for further metabolism. For AA2G and AA, maximum flux of AA-equivalents was at 12 h, with continued absorption over 24 h. The absolute amount in µg was higher in the skin after application of AA than after application of AA2G. This may suggest a greater antioxidative effect; however, according to all three measurements of oxidative stress, the protective effect of AA and AA2G was similar. Unlike AA, AA2G was chemically stable under storage conditions.

CONCLUSION

A lower concentration of AA2G is as effective as the active metabolite, AA, in terms of antioxidant effects. AA2G was chemically stable and can be applied at a lower concentration than AA, thus avoiding the need for an acidic formulation with a pH below 3.5.

Sustained effect of two antioxidants (oxothiazolidine and δ-tocopheryl glucoside) for immediate and long-term sun protection in a sunscreen emulsion based on their different penetrating properties

OBJECTIVE

We investigated the dermal bioavailability and antioxidative properties of a sunscreen formulation containing two antioxidants, oxothiazolidine (OTZ) and δ-tocopheryl glucoside (DTG). OTZ reacts directly with reactive oxygen species to form taurine, while DTG is metabolized in δ-tocopherol to achieve antioxidative activities.

METHODS

After topical application to a hair follicle-derived reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) model, followed by solar-simulated radiation, kinetics of bioavailability and antioxidative responses were measured over 24 h. Markers for oxidative stress were malondialdehyde (MDA), superoxide dismutase (SOD) and catalase activities.

RESULTS

The two antioxidants had different bioavailability profiles: OTZ was rapidly and extensively absorbed, whereas DTG was slowly absorbed and converted to δ-tocopherol. Compared to OTZ alone, the protection against effects on MDA levels and SOD and catalase activities was higher when DTG was used alone or in combination with OTZ. When used in combination, the degree of protection increased over time and remained constant over 24 h with maximal protection 2 h post-irradiation. DTG slowly penetrated into the skin and was present in the skin at all post-irradiation timepoints, thus allowing a slow but constant supply of δ-tocopherol over at least 24 h. By contrast, the oxidative protection by OTZ was immediate but short-lived due to its rapid penetration through the RHE and into the receptor fluid.

CONCLUSION

These results indicate a complementary sunlight protective action of OTZ and DTG with an immediate delivery of OTZ just after topical application of the formulation, and a prolonged skin delivery of δ-tocopherol from the slower penetration and metabolism of DTG.

A comprehensive topical antioxidant inhibits oxidative stress induced by blue light exposure and cigarette smoke in human skin tissue

OBJECTIVE

Skin damage from visible light predominantly results from exposure to the blue light spectrum (400-500 nm) which generates Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) causing a cascade of harmful effects to skin. Topical antioxidants reduce the effects of free radical damage caused by environmental exposures. This study evaluated a comprehensive topical antioxidant's ability to inhibit ROS production induced by blue light and cigarette smoke (CS) in human skin.

METHODS

Two experiments were conducted utilizing human skin (Fitzpatrick Skin Types III and V; N = 3, each). After confirmed reactivity of untreated tissues at 412 nm, 20J/cm2 , untreated and pretreated (WEL-DS, 2 mg/cm2 ) skin tissue was exposed to blue light and blue light plus CS and left overnight. A nonfluorescent probe (DCFH-DA) was added to skin and exposed to blue light (412 nm, 20J/cm2 ) and blue light plus CS. Fluorescent 2',7'-DCF was generated upon enzymatic reduction and subsequent oxidation by ROS.

RESULTS

ROS increased at least tenfold following initial exposure to blue light and blue light plus CS in untreated skin. Pretreatment with WEL-DS decreased ROS in FST III exposed to blue light by 51% and 46% in skin exposed to blue light plus CS vs. untreated skin (both, P < .001). In FST V, pretreatment with WEL-DS decreased ROS exposed to blue light by 54% (P < .001) and 50% in skin exposed to blue light plus CS vs. untreated skin (P < .0001).

CONCLUSION

WEL-DS demonstrated significant reduction in ROS induced by blue light and blue light in combination with CS compared with untreated, exposed skin.

Flaviviridae Viruses and Oxidative Stress: Implications for Viral Pathogenesis

Oxidative stress is induced once the balance of generation and neutralization of reactive oxygen species (ROS) is broken in the cell, and it plays crucial roles in a variety of natural and diseased processes. Infections of Flaviviridae viruses trigger oxidative stress, which affects both the cellular metabolism and the life cycle of the viruses. Oxidative stress associated with specific viral proteins, experimental culture systems, and patient infections, as well as its correlations with the viral pathogenesis attracts much research attention. In this review, we primarily focus on hepatitis C virus (HCV), dengue virus (DENV), Zika virus (ZIKV), Japanese encephalitis virus (JEV), West Nile virus (WNV), and tick-borne encephalitis virus (TBEV) as representatives of Flaviviridae viruses and we summarize the mechanisms involved in the relevance of oxidative stress for virus-associated pathogenesis. We discuss the current understanding of the pathogenic mechanisms of oxidative stress induced by Flaviviridae viruses and highlight the relevance of autophagy and DNA damage in the life cycle of viruses. Understanding the crosstalk between viral infection and oxidative stress-induced molecular events may offer new avenues for antiviral therapeutics.

What's New in Photoprotection: A Review of New Concepts and Controversies

Cumulative ultraviolet exposure plays a critical role in photodamage. Recent advancements in photomedicine have resulted in a more thorough understanding of these mechanisms. Despite this, the adoption of routine sun protective practices is commonly not undertaken regularly by a large proportion of the public. Various obstacles exist that contribute to the public's nonadherence to these practices. Sunscreens, which are an integral component in all photoprotective regimens, have been questioned recently in terms of their safety. The aim of this article is to provide an overview of new concepts in photoprotection and also address current controversies pertaining to sunscreens.

Dual-Prevention for UV-Induced Skin Damage: Incorporation of Melatonin-Loaded Elastic Niosomes into Octyl Methoxycinnamate Pickering Emulsions

Incorporation of antioxidants into sunscreens is a logical approach, yet co-delivery of them with UV filters is a challenge. Here, we purposed a combination therapy, in which the chemical UV filter, octyl methoxycinnamate, was accumulated on upper skin while the antioxidant, melatonin, can penetrate deeper layers to show its effects. Melatonin-loaded elastic niosomes and octyl methoxycinnamate Pickering emulsion were prepared separately. Lyophilized elastic niosomes were dispersed into the Pickering emulsion to prepare the proposed combination formulation. The characterization studies of the formulations revealed that elastic niosomes can be prepared with tunable nanometer sizes, whereas Pickering emulsions can encapsulate the UV filter in micrometer-sized droplets. Melatonin-loaded elastic niosomes prepared with Tween80/Span80 mixture were 146 nm with a PI of 0.438, and 58.42% entrapment efficiency was achieved. The mean diameter size of the combination formulation was 27.8 μm. Ex vivo permeation studies revealed that 7.40% of octyl methoxycinnamate and 58% of melatonin were permeated through the rat skin while 27.6% octyl methoxycinnamate and 37% of melatonin accumulated in the skin after 24 h. Cell culture studies with real-time cell analyzer showed that the proposed formulation consist of melatonin-loaded elastic niosomes and octyl methoxycinnamate Pickering emulsion had no negative effect on the cell proliferation and viability. According to α,α-diphenyl-β-picrylhydrazyl free radical scavenging method, the proposed formulation showed as high antioxidant activity as melatonin itself. It is concluded that the proposed formulation would be a promising dual therapy for UV-induced skin damage with co-delivery strategy.

Naringenin improves the sunscreen performance of vegetable nanocarriers

Naringenin enhances the UV protection, photostability and cell viability of lipid based vegetable nanocarriers.

Current challenges in photoprotection

Electromagnetic radiation in the ultraviolet, visible, and infrared ranges all produce biologic effects. Ultraviolet filters are the most well-studied photoprotective measure for the adverse effects of ultraviolet radiation. Because of the reported endocrinologic effects of oxybenzone in animal studies, its effects on coral reefs, and its photocontact allergy potential, its use has been minimized in many countries worldwide. New developments in topical antioxidants and oral and subcutaneous agents (eg, Polypodium leucotomos extract, afamelanotide, nicotinamide) with photoprotective and antiphotocarcinogenic properties could potentially provide addition modalities for protection against the effects of visible light and infrared radiation.

Chemoprevention of Keratinocyte Carcinomas: An Updated Review

A well-established link between ultraviolet exposure and the carcinogenesis of keratinocyte carcinomas exists. Despite increased sun protection efforts, skin cancer remains the most common cancer in the USA. Numerous studies on the topic of chemoprevention investigate alternative topical, oral, and injectable agents to reduce skin cancer incidence in those at risk. Such agents include sunscreen, numerous vitamins and minerals, difluoromethylornithine, non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs, various peptides, field therapy, statins, and polyphenols. In this focused review, we discuss the risks and benefits of chemoprotective agents reported in clinical studies conducted in humans. We report several agents that may reduce skin cancer incidence in those at risk.

Current application of phytocompound-based nanocosmeceuticals for beauty and skin therapy

Phytocompounds have been used in cosmeceuticals for decades and have shown potential for beauty applications, including sunscreen, moisturizing and antiaging, and skin-based therapy. The major concerns in the usage of phyto-based cosmeceuticals are lower penetration and high compound instability of various cosmetic products for sustained and enhanced compound delivery to the beauty-based skin therapy. To overcome these disadvantages, nanosized delivery technologies are currently in use for sustained and enhanced delivery of phyto-derived bioactive compounds in cosmeceutical sectors and products. Nanosizing of phytocompounds enhances the aseptic feel in various cosmeceutical products with sustained delivery and enhanced skin protecting activities. Solid lipid nanoparticles, transfersomes, ethosomes, nanostructured lipid carriers, fullerenes, and carbon nanotubes are some of the emerging nanotechnologies currently in use for their enhanced delivery of phytocompounds in skin care. Aloe vera, curcumin, resveratrol, quercetin, vitamins C and E, genistein, and green tea catechins were successfully nanosized using various delivery technologies and incorporated in various gels, lotions, and creams for skin, lip, and hair care for their sustained effects. However, certain delivery agents such as carbon nanotubes need to be studied for their roles in toxicity. This review broadly focuses on the usage of phytocompounds in various cosmeceutical products, nanodelivery technologies used in the delivery of phytocompounds to various cosmeceuticals, and various nanosized phytocompounds used in the development of novel nanocosmeceuticals to enhance skin-based therapy.

Mitochondria-targeted antioxidants

Redox homeostasis is maintained by the antioxidant defense system, which is responsible for eliminating a wide range of oxidants, including reactive oxygen species (ROS), lipid peroxides, and metals. Mitochondria-localized antioxidants are widely studied because the mitochondria, the major producers of intracellular ROS, have been linked to the cause of aging and other chronic diseases. Mitochondria-targeted antioxidants have shown great potential because they cross the mitochondrial phospholipid bilayer and eliminate ROS at the heart of the source. Growing evidence has identified mitochondria-targeted antioxidants, such as MitoQ and tiron, as potentially effective antioxidant therapies against the damage caused by enhanced ROS generation. This literature review summarizes the current knowledge on mitochondria-targeted antioxidants and their contribution to the body's antioxidant defense system. In addition to addressing the concerns surrounding current antioxidant strategies, including difficulties in targeting antioxidant treatment to sites of pathologic oxidative damage, we discuss promising therapeutic agents and new strategic approaches.

Brazilian consensus on photoprotection

Brazil is a country of continental dimensions with a large heterogeneity of climates and massive mixing of the population. Almost the entire national territory is located between the Equator and the Tropic of Capricorn, and the Earth axial tilt to the south certainly makes Brazil one of the countries of the world with greater extent of land in proximity to the sun. The Brazilian coastline, where most of its population lives, is more than 8,500 km long. Due to geographic characteristics and cultural trends, Brazilians are among the peoples with the highest annual exposure to the sun. Epidemiological data show a continuing increase in the incidence of non-melanoma and melanoma skin cancers. Photoprotection can be understood as a set of measures aimed at reducing sun exposure and at preventing the development of acute and chronic actinic damage. Due to the peculiarities of Brazilian territory and culture, it would not be advisable to replicate the concepts of photoprotection from other developed countries, places with completely different climates and populations. Thus the Brazilian Society of Dermatology has developed the Brazilian Consensus on Photoprotection, the first official document on photoprotection developed in Brazil for Brazilians, with recommendations on matters involving photoprotection.

Photoprotective effect of botanicals and vitamins: A systematic review of clinical trials

BACKGROUND

Overexposure to solar radiation is a major contributor to skin cancer development and premature skin aging. Botanical extracts and vitamins may represent novel photoprotective agents.

OBJECTIVE

We sought to systemically review clinical evidence for the use of botanically derived agents and vitamins as photoprotective agents.

METHODS

We systematically searched Embase and PubMed databases. Two independent reviewers reviewed abstracts for inclusion. Additional relevant studies were identified by a manual review of reference lists. Data from eligible studies were extracted independently and discrepancies were resolved by consensus.

RESULTS

A total of 51 studies met inclusion criteria. Limited available evidence indicates that several botanical agents and vitamins in topical or oral forms may have promising photoprotective effects. However, generalizability of results is limited by small sample sizes.

CONCLUSION AND RELEVANCE

Botanical extracts and vitamins may add to the armamentarium of sun-protective agents. Additional high-quality trials are needed to strengthen support for their use.

S-(-)-10,11-dihydroxyfarnesoic acid methyl ester inhibits melanin synthesis in murine melanocyte cells

The development of antimelanogenic agents is important for the prevention of serious aesthetic problems such as melasmas, freckles, age spots, and chloasmas. In the course of screening for melanin synthesis inhibitors, we found that the culture broth from an insect morphopathogenic fungus, Beauveria bassiana CS1029, exhibits potent antimelanogenic activity. We isolated and purified an active metabolite and identified it as S-(−)-10,11-dihydroxyfarnesoic acid methyl ester (dhFAME), an insect juvenile hormone. To address whether dhFAME inhibits melanin synthesis, we first measured the size of the melanin biosynthesis inhibition zone caused by dhFAME. dhFAME also showed inhibitory activity against mushroom tyrosinase in Melan-a cells. Intracellular, dose-dependent tyrosinase inhibition activity was also confirmed by zymography. In addition, we showed that dhFAME strongly inhibits melanin synthesis in Melan-a cells. Furthermore, we compared levels of TYR, TRP-1, TRP-2, MITF, and MC1R mRNA expression by reverse-transcription polymerase chain reaction and showed that treatment of Melan-a cells with 35 μM dhFAME led to an 11-fold decrease in TYR expression, a 6-fold decrease in TRP-2 expression, and a 5-fold decrease in MITF expression. Together, these results indicate that dhFAME is a potent inhibitor of melanin synthesis that can potentially be used for cosmetic biomaterial(s).

The role of antioxidants in photoprotection: a critical review

Free radicals have long been studied as a contributor to aging and disease processes. Endogenous production of radicals from cellular metabolism and exogenous sources from ultraviolet radiation and pollution can damage the skin on the cellular and tissue levels. Although the body possesses an elegant defense system to prevent radical damage, this innate system can be overwhelmed and lead to a state of oxidative stress or immunosuppression, and can even trigger carcinogenesis. Topical supplementation of antioxidants can provide additional protection to neutralize reactive oxygen species from both endogenous and exogenous sources. This review will discuss our current understanding of the mechanisms of free radical damage and evaluate the potential benefit of topical antioxidants in sunscreens and skin care products.

Nitroxides and a nitroxide-based UV filter have the potential to photoprotect UVA-irradiated human skin fibroblasts against oxidative damage

BACKGROUND

Antioxidants are now being incorporated into sunscreens as additional topical measure for delaying the aging process and reducing photo-damage to skin induced by excessive UVA exposure. UVA radiation reaching the skin leads to the generation of ROS (reactive oxygen species) implicated in DNA damage and activation of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) responsible for collagen damage and photo-aging. Nitroxides are a class of compounds endowed with versatile antioxidant activity and recently, nitroxide-based UV filters in which a nitroxide moiety has been attached to the most popular UV filter present in sunscreens have been developed.

OBJECTIVE

This study explores the potential photo-protective effects of these compounds on ROS production and induction of MMP-1 in cultured human dermal fibroblasts exposed to UVA. For comparison, vitamin E was also tested.

METHODS

The effects were assessed by measuring intracellular ROS production using a ROS-index probe and MMP-1 mRNA expression levels using quantitative real-time PCR (qPCR).

RESULTS

Exposure of fibroblasts to 18J/cm(2) UVA lead to a two-fold increase in ROS production which was reduced to non-irradiated control levels in the presence of 50μM nitroxide compounds and vitamin E. Under the same conditions, a ten-fold increase in MMP-1 mRNA expression levels was observed 24h post-UVA treatment which was significantly reduced by all nitroxide compounds but not vitamin E.

CONCLUSION

The results of this study support the potential use of nitroxide compounds, including novel nitroxide-based UV filters, as a useful and alternative strategy for improving the efficacy of topical formulations against photo-aging and possibly photo-carcinogenesis.