Sunscreens: are Australians getting the good oil?

Assay of common sunscreen agents in suncare products by high-performance liquid chromatography on a cyanopropyl-bonded silica column

A rapid high-performance liquid chromatographic method was developed for the simultaneous assay of eight of the most common sunscreen agents (octyl-methoxycinnamate, oxybenzone, butyl-methoxydibenzoylmethane, octyl-salicilate, methylbenzylidene camphor, octyl-dimethylamminobenzoate, phenylbenzimidazole sulphonic acid and octocrylene) in sun protection products. Evaluation of the influence of different stationary phases and eluents on the separation selectivity showed that optimal resolution was obtained on a cyanopropyl-silica column eluted with methanol-acetonitrile-tetrahydrofuran-aqueous acetic acid. A small adjustment of the proposed chromatographic system (reduction in the aqueous content of the mobile phase) permitted also the determination of the extremely hydrophobic UV filter, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol along with three other sunscreen agents, octyl-methoxycinnamate, oxybenzone, butyl-methoxydibenzoylmethane. Recoveries of the UV filters from the spiked formulation were between 95.7 and 103.7% and the precision of the method was better than 6.1% relative standard deviation. The developed HPLC procedure is suitable for quality control and photostability analyses of commercial suncare products.

Sunscreen penetration of human skin and related keratinocyte toxicity after topical application

Sunscreen skin penetration and safety assessment should be considered together in order to ensure that in vitro cytotoxicity studies examine relevant doses of these organic chemical UV filters to which viable epidermal cells are realistically exposed. In this study, we sought to determine whether sufficient topically applied sunscreens penetrated into human viable epidermis to put the local keratinocyte cell populations at risk of toxicity. The penetration and retention of five commonly used sunscreen agents (avobenzone, octinoxate, octocrylene, oxybenzone and padimate O) in human skin was evaluated after application in mineral oil to isolated human epidermal membranes. Sunscreen concentration-human keratinocyte culture response curves were then defined using changes in cell morphology and proliferation (DNA synthesis using radiolabelled thymidine uptake studies) as evidence of sunscreens causing toxicity. Following 24 h of human epidermal exposure to sunscreens, detectable amounts of all sunscreens were present in the stratum corneum and viable epidermis, with epidermal penetration most evident with oxybenzone. The concentrations of each sunscreen found in human viable epidermis after topical application, adjusting for skin partitioning and binding effects, were at least 5-fold lower, based on levels detected in viable epidermal cells, than those appearing to cause toxicity in cultured human keratinocytes. It is concluded that the human viable epidermal levels of sunscreens are too low to cause any significant toxicity to the underlying human keratinocytes.

Lack of in vitro protection by a common sunscreen ingredient on UVA-induced cytotoxicity in keratinocytes

As an extension of our previous investigations on sunscreen ingredients, the present work was aimed at assessing the possible protective effects of a common UVA-absorbing agent, Parsol 1789 (4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane) in contact with human keratinocytes under UVA illumination. Cell viability was evaluated by determining lactate dehydrogenase (LDH) release, uptake of propidium iodide and fluorescein diacetate, total protein content and percentage of cell detachment. Apoptosis was detected by recognition of translocated phosphatidylserine using annexin V-FITC uptake. Oxidative stress was evaluated through the carboxy-H2DCFDA assay while the total oxyradical scavenging capacity (TOSC) assay was used for determining the total antioxidant capacity level in these cells. Lipid peroxidation was also assessed by checking hydroperoxide (HP) levels. The results obtained show that UVA exposure induces significant cell mortality, decrease in protein concentration, release of LDH, increase in apoptosis, oxidative stress and lipid peroxidation with a concomitant reduction in the response of the antioxidant cellular defense system. The presence of 10 microM Parsol 1789 did not minimize these UVA-induced effects, on the contrary, for some parameters measured such as lipid hydroperoxides, there was a significant enhancement. Furthermore, the presence of glutathione (GSH) alone decreased the level of ROS and lipid hydroperoxides, but in combination with Parsol 1789, this protective effect was reduced. The overall results indicate that the compound does not protect these cells from UVA exposure under our experimental conditions confirming previous findings on the lack of photoprotective efficiency of this sunscreen in contact with biologically relevant molecules. However, the biological role and significance of these results to the consequences of sunscreen use in humans are not known, hence extrapolation from laboratory experiments must be done with caution.

Influence of cyclodextrins on in vitro human skin absorption of the sunscreen, butyl-methoxydibenzoylmethane

The effects of hydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin (HP-beta-CD) and sulfobutylether-beta-CD (SBE7-beta-CD) on in vitro human skin penetration and retention of the sunscreen agent butyl-methoxydibenzoylmethane (BM-DBM) were investigated. The interaction between the UV filter and the cyclodextrins was studied in water by phase-solubility analysis. Solid complexes were prepared by the co-evaporation method and characterized by (1)H NMR spectroscopy, thermal analysis and powder X-ray diffraction. Solutions containing BM-DBM free or complexed with cyclodextrins were applied to excised human skin in Franz diffusion cells and the amount of sunscreen permeated after 6 h into the stratum corneum, viable epidermis, dermis and receptor fluid was assessed by HPLC. As much as 14.10-16.78% of the applied dose of BM-DBM penetrated within the skin tissue. No sunscreen was detected in the dermis and in the receiver phase. The greater proportion (84.6-95.5%) of the absorbed UV filter was localized in the stratum corneum with no significant differences between uncomplexed or complexed BM-DBM. Notable levels (2.29% of the applied dose) of the sunscreen agent accumulated in the epidermis from the preparation containing free BM-DBM. The epidermal concentration of the UV filter was markedly reduced (0.66% of the applied dose) by complexation with SBE7-beta-CD, whereas HP-beta-CD had no effect. The decreased BM-DBM retention in the epidermal region achieved by SBE7-beta-CD limits direct contact of the sunscreen and of its reactive photolytic products with the skin viable tissues.

Complexation of the sunscreen agent, phenylbenzimidazole sulphonic acid with cyclodextrins: effect on stability and photo-induced free radical formation

The interaction between the sunscreen agent, phenylbenzimidazole sulphonic acid (PBSA) and hydrophilic alpha-, beta-, and gamma-cyclodextrin derivatives was investigated under acidic conditions (pH 4.0) by phase-solubility analysis. Among the available cyclodextrins, hydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin (HP-beta-CD) and random methyl-beta-cyclodextrin (RM-beta-CD) had the greatest solubilizing activity. The complexation of the sunscreen agent with HP-beta-CD and RM-beta-CD was confirmed by nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopy. Solid-phase characterization of the PBSA/cyclodextrin systems by X-ray diffractometry defined the most appropriate method (co-evaporation) and cyclodextrin concentration (10-fold molar excess) for the preparation of a stable complexed form of PBSA. Long-term stability studies demonstrated that the decrease of the sunscreen level in emulsion preparations (pH 4.0) was almost completely suppressed by HP-beta-CD, RM-beta-CD being less effective. Moreover, the irradiation-induced decomposition of PBSA in the emulsion vehicle was markedly reduced by complexation with HP-beta-CD (the extent of degradation was 3.9% for the complex compared to 9.1% for uncomplexed PBSA), whereas RM-beta-CD had no significant influence. In addition, electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) spin-trapping studies showed that the inclusion of the sunscreen agent into the HP-beta-CD cavity completely inhibited the formation of free-radicals generated by PBSA on exposure to simulated sunlight, thereby suppressing its photosensitising potential.

Comparative studies of the influence of cyclodextrins on the stability of the sunscreen agent, 2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate

The effects of beta-cyclodextrin (beta-CD) and hydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin (HP-beta-CD) on the base-catalyzed degradation and light-induced decomposition of the sunscreen agent, trans-2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate (trans-EHMC) were investigated. Reversed-phase liquid chromatography was used to study the interaction between natural and modified cyclodextrins, added to the mobile phase, and the sunscreen. Among the available cyclodextrins (beta-CD, HP-beta-CD, hydroxypropyl-alpha-cyclodextrin and hydroxypropyl-gamma-cyclodextrin), only HP-beta-CD and beta-CD produced a significant decrease in the chromatographic retention of trans-EHMC. The complexation of the sunscreen agent with HP-beta-CD and beta-CD was confirmed by thermal analysis and nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopy. beta-CD depressed the decomposition of trans-EHMC in alkaline solutions more effectively than HP-beta-CD. Moreover, the irradiation-induced degradation of the sunscreen agent in emulsion vehicles was reduced by complexation with beta-CD (the extent of degradation was 26.1% for the complex compared to 35.8% for free trans-EHMC) whereas HP-beta-CD had no significant effect. Therefore, the complex of beta-CD with trans-EHMC enhances the chemical- and photo-stability of the sunscreen agent. Moreover, it limits adverse interactions of the UV filter with other formulation ingredients.

Influence of hydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin on photo-induced free radical production by the sunscreen agent, butyl-methoxydibenzoylmethane

The aim of the study was to investigate the effect of hydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin (HP-beta-CD) on the photo-induced production of free radicals by the sunscreen agent, butyl-methoxydibenzoylmethane (BMDBM). Spin-trapping/electron paramagnetic resonance spectroscopy was used to evaluate the formation of radicals and the extent of BMDBM photodegradation was measured by high-performance liquid chromatography. The stable 2,2,6,6-tetramethylpiperidine-1-oxyl, nitroxide radical (TEMPO) was used as spin-trap. Any free radicals generated during irradiation of the sunscreen agent will couple with the TEMPO radicals giving diamagnetic species and thus a decrease of the signal intensity in the electron paramagnetic resonance spectrum. Following 2-h illumination with simulated sunlight, the solution containing free BMDBM exhibited a 93.9% decrease of the intensity of the TEMPO signal. Under the same irradiation conditions, only a 12.2% reduction of the TEMPO concentration was measured in the sample containing BMDBM complexed with HP-beta-CD. Moreover, the decrease of the spin-trap level observed for the HP-beta-CD/BMDBM complex was not significantly different from that produced when solutions containing TEMPO only or TEMPO in the presence of HP-beta-CD alone were subjected to irradiation. In addition, the photodegradation of the sunscreen agent was reduced by complexation with HP-beta-CD (the extent of degradation was 27.6% for the complex compared with 63.1% for free BMDBM). The results obtained indicate that the free radicals generated by BMDBM when exposed to simulated sunlight are effectively scavenged by inclusion complexation of the sunscreen agent with HP-beta-CD.

Effect of nanoparticle encapsulation on the photostability of the sunscreen agent, 2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate

The aim of this study was to investigate the influence of nanoparticle-based systems on the light-induced decomposition of the sunscreen agent, trans-2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate (trans-EHMC). Ethylcellulose (EC) and poly-D,L-lactide-co-glycolide (PLGA) were used as biocompatible polymers for the preparation of the particulate systems. The "salting out" method was used for nanoparticle preparation and several variables were evaluated in order to optimize product characteristics. The photodegradation of the sunscreen agent in emulsion vehicles was reduced by encapsulation into the PLGA nanoparticles (the extent of degradation was 35.3% for the sunscreen-loaded nanoparticles compared to 52.3% for free trans-EHMC) whereas the EC nanoparticle system had no significant effect. Therefore, PLGA nanoparticles loaded with trans-EHMC improve the photostability of the sunscreen agent.

Assessment and clinical implications of absorption of sunscreens across skin

Topical sunscreen products are widely used for protection of the skin against the harmful effects of exposure to ultraviolet radiation. Sunscreen agents are incorporated into many everyday-use cosmetics as well as so called 'beach' products. An ideal sunscreen product will provide effective protection against UV radiation with minimal skin absorption of the active ingredients. There is now clear evidence that a common sunscreen chemical, benzophenone-3, is absorbed systemically following topical application to the skin. Other more lipophilic sunscreens are absorbed into the skin, but penetration to deeper tissues and the cutaneous circulation appears to be limited. However, the extent to which sunscreens that are absorbed into the stratum corneum are absorbed to deeper tissues and the systemic circulation over time is currently unknown. The formulation vehicle in which the sunscreen is presented to the skin has a significant effect on absorption into and through the skin. Alcohol-based formulations appear to increase sunscreen absorption. In addition, some sunscreen chemicals may enhance the skin absorption of other sunscreens when applied in combination. Clearly, further research into the influence of sunscreen and formulation properties on skin absorption could lead to optimal design of sunscreen products with respect to efficacy and minimizing absorption. Despite the extensive use of sunscreen products, there have been few reports of adverse effects, and these tend to be limited to acute dermatitis and allergies. Some recent reports have raised concerns that sunscreen chemicals may damage tissues, particularly in the presence of UV radiation. Further research into the toxicity of sunscreens is urgently required. Given the information currently available and the importance of protecting the skin against sun damage, there is no clear justification for restricting the use of sunscreen products at this time.

Determination of sunscreen agents in cosmetic products by supercritical fluid extraction and high-performance liquid chromatography

A rapid supercritical fluid extraction (SFE) procedure for the isolation of five of the most common sunscreen agents (2-ethylhexyl-p-dimethylaminobenzoate, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor and 4-tert.-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane) from cosmetic products is described. Investigation of the factors affecting the extraction efficiency in SFE indicated that sunscreen recoveries were affected mainly by the supercritical CO2 pressure and by the trapping method. The sunscreens were analyzed by reversed-phase high-performance liquid chromatography after a 10-min extraction of the cosmetic product with CO2 at 250 bar and 40 degrees C, using sequential glass surface and C18 sorbent as collection system. A quantitative comparison of SFE with a liquid extraction procedure was performed on commercial cosmetics. The SFE method yielded recoveries higher than 94.8% compared with conventional liquid extraction and exhibited a precision better than 5.3% relative standard deviation. Moreover, SFE minimized sample handling, reduced the consumption of harmful solvents and afforded a more effective purification of the cosmetic matrices.