Influence des differents constituents de la couche cornee sur la mesure de son élasticité

Characterizing the nanomechanical properties of microcomedones after treatment with sodium salicylate ex vivo using atomic force microscopy

OBJECTIVE

The treatment of acne presents a major clinical and dermatological challenge. Investigating the nanomechanical properties of the microcomedone precursor lesions using atomic force microscopy (AFM) may prove beneficial in understanding their softening, dissolution and prevention. Although the exact biochemical mechanism of NaSal on microcomedones is not fully understood at present, it appears to exhibit a significant exfoliation effect on the skin via corneodesmosome dissolution.

METHODS

Therefore, to support this exploration, sodium salicylate (NaSal), a common ingredient employed in skin care products, is applied ex vivo to microcomedones,collected by nose strip adhesive tape, and their nanomechanical properties are assessed using AFM. Although the exact biochemical mechanism of NaSal on microcomedones is not fully understood at present, it appears to exhibit a significant exfoliation effect on the skin via corneodesmosome dissolution.

RESULTS

Herein, our findings demonstrate that when microcomedones are treated with 2% NaSal, samples appeared significantly more compliant ('softer') ((1.3 ± 0.62) MPa) when compared to their pre-treated measurements ((7.2 ± 3.6) MPa; p = 0.038). Furthermore, elastic modulus maps showed that after 2% NaSal treatment, areas in the microcomedone appeared softer and swollen in some, but not in all areas, further proving the valuable impact of 2% NaSal solution in altering the biomechanical properties and morphologies in microcomedones.

CONCLUSION

Our results are the first of their kind to provide qualitative and quantitative mechanobiological evidence that 2% NaSal decreases the elastic modulus of microcomedones. Therefore, this study provides evidence that NaSal can be beneficial as an active ingredient in topical treatments aimed at targeting microcomedones.

In vitro and in vivo confocal Raman study of human skin hydration: assessment of a new moisturizing agent, pMPC

The hydration capacities of a biomimetic polymer, 2-methacryloyloxethylphosphorylcholine polymer (pMPC), alone and microencapsulated, in association with another well known hydrating polymer, Hyaluronic acid, were investigated in vitro on skin models and in vivo on volunteers by using confocal Raman microspectroscopy. The hydration impact and the relative water content in the Stratum corneum were calculated from the Raman spectra using the OH (water)/CH3 (protein) ratio. Moreover, the follow-up of the presence of pMPC through the Stratum corneum was possible with confocal Raman microspectroscopy, using a characteristic vibration of pMPC, different from that of the encapsulating material. From our in vitro measurements, the improved hydration of the Stratum corneum was confirmed by the use of the encapsulated form of pMPC, which was higher when combined with Hyaluronic acid. On the basis of these in vitro findings, we validated this trend in in vivo measurements on 26 volunteers, and found a good correlation with the in vitro results. Mechanical and ultrastructural studies have been carried out to demonstrate the positive effects of the pMPC on the Stratum corneum function, namely the interaction with lamellar lipids and the plasticizing effects, which are both supposed to spell out the moisturizing effect. This study demonstrates the efficiency of a original hydrating agent, pMPC, entrapped with Hyaluronic acid in a new type of microcapsules by the use of a novel tool developed for both in vitro and in vivo approaches. This indicates a new step to evaluate and improve new moisturizers in response to the cosmetics or dermatologic demands.