Epidermal barrier function in dry, flaky and sensitive skin: A narrative review

The stratum corneum (SC)-the outermost layer of the epidermis-is the principal permeability and protective barrier of the skin. Different components of the SC, including corneocytes, natural moisturizing factor, a variety of enzymes and their inhibitors, antimicrobial peptides and lipids, work interactively to maintain barrier function. The main barrier properties of the SC are the limitation of water loss and the prevention of infection and contact with potentially harmful exogenous factors. Although the SC functions consistently as a protective barrier throughout the body, variations in functions and morphology occur across body sites with age and skin type. Healthy SC function also depends on the interplay between the chemosensory barrier, the skin's microbiome and the innate immune system. Dysregulation of SC barrier function can lead to the development of skin disorders, such as dry, flaky or sensitive skin, but the complete underlying pathophysiology of these are not fully understood. This review provides insight into the current literature and emerging themes related to epidermal barrier changes that occur in the context of dry, flaky and sensitive skin. Additional studies are needed to further elucidate the underlying aetiology of dry, flaky and sensitive skin and to provide tailored treatment.

Predictors of female age, health and attractiveness perception from skin feature analysis of digital portraits in five ethnic groups

OBJECTIVE

Research indicates the impact of skin colour, tone evenness and surface topography on ratings of age, health and attractiveness in women. In addition to subjective assessments, these effects have been quantified with objective measures derived from skin image analysis. Signs of skin ageing may manifest differently across ethnic groups. However, comparisons have been limited to research with two ethnic groups, preventing conclusions about an ethnicity-specific ranking of skin ageing signs.

METHODS

We report results from a multi-ethnic and multi-centre study in which faces of women (n = 180; aged 20-69 years) from five ethnic groups were imaged. Facial images were rated for age, health and attractiveness by members of the same ethnic group (each n = 120). Digital image analysis was used to quantify skin colour, gloss, tone evenness and wrinkling/sagging. We assessed associations between face ratings and skin image measurements in the total sample (i.e. all ethnic groups) and separately by ethnicity.

RESULTS

Skin image analysis revealed differences between ethnic groups, including skin colour, gloss, tone evenness, wrinkling and sagging. Differences in the relative predictive utility of individual skin features in accounting for ratings of age, health and attractiveness also were observed between ethnic groups. Facial wrinkling and sagging were the best predictors of face ratings in each ethnic group, with some differences in the type (or predictive magnitude) of skin features.

CONCLUSION

The current findings corroborate previous reports of differences between ethnic groups in female facial skin and indicate differential effects of skin features on ratings of age, health and attractiveness, within and between ethnic groups. Facial wrinkling and sagging were the best predictors of age and attractiveness ratings, and skin tone evenness and gloss had an additional role in ratings of health.

A comprehensive comparison of facial skin hydration based on capacitance and conductance measurements in Chinese women

OBJECTIVES

The aim of this study was to compare the data of conductance and capacitance measurements of facial skin hydration and to evaluate and discuss the advantages and disadvantages of the different approaches.

METHODS

We measured skin capacitance (Corneometer® CM 825) and skin conductance (Skicon-200EX®) on 30 pre-defined facial sites of 125 Chinese women, resulting in 3750 readings per device. The data were analysed and compared, and continuous colour maps were generated on a 3D avatar for capacitance, conductance, relative difference (Δ%) and correlation (R-value) by interpolating between the individual readings and converting the values to colours. This visualization allows a better interpretation of the results.

RESULTS

The complexity of facial skin hydration is revealed by this approach. The similarities and discrepancies in the facial hydration maps are clearly apparent. Due to the superiority of the Skicon in measuring high hydration levels, differences in skin hydration were evident on the forehead compared with the Corneometer maps, which may be related to the more superficial measurement of the Skicon within the stratum corneum. Conversely, a greater understanding of the complexity of facial skin hydration in the nasolabial fold was obvious when using the Corneometer. The best congruence between the instruments was found at two specific but separated facial areas, one around the inner eye region and the other one on a line between the nasolabial sulcus and the oblique, lateral jaw. Interestingly, the data were not normally distributed for both instruments and they had opposite skews. All facial clusters were statistically different from each other (p < 0.001), except the cheek and jaw for the Skicon. Larger than expected percentage coefficients of variance were found for the Corneometer on some facial sites that might be explainable by differences in stratum corneum physiology and biochemistry. Corneometer values of 48 AU and Skicon values of 132 μS were taken as the cutoff for normally hydrated facial skin.

CONCLUSIONS

Both devices have their advantages and disadvantages suggesting that bio-instrumental measurement of skin hydration is actually more complicated than commonly thought and that the different facial zones and the use of multiple instrumentation have not been adequately considered.

Moisturizing at a molecular level - The basis of Corneocare

BACKGROUND

This review covers the last 20 years of research we and our collaborators have conducted on ethnic differences in facial skin moisturization placed in historical context with previous research.

METHODS

We have focussed particularly on the biochemical and cellular gradients of the stratum corneum (SC) with the aim of discovering new skin moisturization and SC maturation mechanisms, identifying new technologies and/or providing conceptual innovations for ingredients that will improve our understanding and treatment of dry skin. Specifically, we discuss gradients for corneodesmosomes and proteases, corneocyte phenotype-inducing enzymes, filaggrin and natural moisturizing factor (NMF), and barrier lipids. These gradients are interdependent and influence greatly corneocyte maturation.

RESULTS

The interrelationship between corneodesmolysis and the covalent attachment of ω-hydroxy ceramides and ω-hydroxy fatty acids to the corneocyte protein envelope forming the corneocyte lipid envelope is especially relevant in our new understanding of mechanisms leading to dry skin. This process is initiated by a linoleoyl-ω-acyl ceramide transforming enzyme cascade including 12R lipoxygenase (12R-LOX), epidermal lipoxygenase-3 (eLOX3), epoxide hydrolase 3 (EPHX3), short-chain dehydrogenase/reductase family 9C member 7 (SDR9C7), ceramidase and transglutaminase 1.

CONCLUSION

Our research has opened the opportunity of using novel treatment systems for dry skin based on lipids, humectants, niacinamide and inhibitors of the plasminogen system. It is clear that skin moisturization is a more complex mechanism than simple skin hydration.

Changes in levels of omega-O-acylceramides and related processing enzymes of sun-exposed and sun-protected facial stratum corneum in differently pigmented ethnic groups

INTRODUCTION

We report on the differences in ceramide composition and levels of omega-O-acylceramide processing enzymes of sun-exposed and sun-protected facialstratum corneum (SC) among Albino African, Black African and Caucasian women living in South Africa.

METHODS

Tape strippings were taken from the sun-exposed cheek and the sunprotected postauricular site (PA). In two subsets proteomic (n = 18) and lipidomic (n = 24) analysis were performed using mass-spectrometry-based shotgun platforms.

RESULTS

No significant differences in total ceramide levels or ceramide subtypes were found between the Black African and Caucasian women in either the cheek or PA samples. Compared to the other two groups the levels of total ceramide as well as selected omega-O-acylceramide species were increased in Albino Africans. On the cheek, ceramide (CER) EOS, EOH along with CER AS were increased relative to the Caucasian women, while CER EOP and EOdS were elevated relative to the Black African women. Moreover, on the PA site CER EOP and EOdS were elevated compared with the Black African women and CER EOdS in Caucasians. Decreasesin masslevels of 12R-LOX and eLOX3 were observed on cheeks compared with the PA sites in all ethnic groups. On the PA sites 12R-LOX was particularly lower in the Albino Africans compared with the Black African and Caucasian women. On the cheeks mass levels of SDR9C7 was also lower in the Albino Africans.

CONCLUSION

The mass levels of the ceramides were similar between Black African and Caucasian women. However, elevated total ceramides and excessively elevated selected omega-O-acylceramides were apparent in the Albino African women. The findings in the Albino African women were unexpected as these participants suffer from impaired skin barrier function. However, the elevated levels omega-O-acylceramides can contribute to barrier insufficiency by directly impacting SC lipid phase behaviour and/or secondly elevated omegaO-acylceramide levels may indicate a reduced attachment of ceramides to the corneocyte lipid envelope and reduced corneocyte maturation that can also impair the barrier. Indeed, differences in the mass levels of omega-O-acylceramide processing enzymes were observed for 12R-LOX and SDR9C7 for the Albino Africans. This indicates a corneocyte lipid scaffold disorder in this population.

Effect of regioisomers of hydroxystearic acids as peroxisomal proliferator-activated receptor agonists to boost the anti-ageing potential of retinoids

Introduction

We report on the in vitro and ex vivo effects of chiral (R)‐10‐hydroxystearic acid (10‐HSA) compared with other mono‐hydroxystearic acid regioisomers and stearic acid (SA) together with its benefit when combined with retinol.

Methods

Following treatment with hydroxystearic acids peroxisomal proliferator‐activated receptor alpha (PPARα) activity was determined in a luciferase reporter gene assay, collagen type I was assessed in primary human dermal fibroblasts by immunohistochemistry, modification of the intracellular fibroblast collagen proteome was studied by mass‐spectrometry‐based proteomics and collagen type III was assessed by immunohistochemistry on human ex vivo skin.

Results

10‐HSA was the most effective PPARα agonist (15.7× induction; p < 0.001), followed by 9‐HSA (10.1× induction) and then 12‐HSA (4.9× induction) with 17‐HSA (1.7× induction) being similar to the effects of stearic acid (1.8× induction). Collagen type I levels were increased in primary human fibroblasts by 2.12× and 1.56× for 10‐HSA and 9‐HSA, respectively, in vitro with the10‐HSA being significant (p < 0.05), whereas 12‐HSA and SA had no statistical effect over the untreated control. 10‐HSA and 12‐HSA modified the intracellular fibroblast collagen proteome slightly with significant increases in collagen alpha‐1 (VI) and alpha‐3 (VI) proteins but only 10‐HSA increased levels of collagen alpha‐2 (V), alpha‐1 (III), alpha‐1 (I) and alpha‐2 (I) (all p < 0.05) with the increases being significantly different between 10‐HSA and 12‐HSA for collagen alpha‐1 (I), collagen‐3 (VI) and collagen alpha‐2 (I) (p < 0.01). Collagen type III in ex vivo skin was increased +47% (p < 0.05) by 0.05% (1.7 mM) retinol, +70% (p < 0.01) by 0.01% (0.33 mM) 10‐HSA and the combination increased levels by +240% (p < 0.01 for either ingredient).

Conclusion

Chiral (R)‐10‐HSA has been shown to be superior to 9, 12 and 17‐HSA as a PPARα agonist. Moreover, 10‐HSA stimulated collagen synthesis in monolayer fibroblast culture as assessed by proteomics and immunohistochemically. Furthermore, we also show the synergistic effects of 10‐HSA with retinol on collagen III synthesis in skin explants. These results further highlight the efficacy of 10‐HSA as a cosmetically acceptable PPARα agonist and anti‐ageing ingredient.

Characterizing the nanomechanical properties of microcomedones after treatment with sodium salicylate ex vivo using atomic force microscopy

OBJECTIVE

The treatment of acne presents a major clinical and dermatological challenge. Investigating the nanomechanical properties of the microcomedone precursor lesions using atomic force microscopy (AFM) may prove beneficial in understanding their softening, dissolution and prevention. Although the exact biochemical mechanism of NaSal on microcomedones is not fully understood at present, it appears to exhibit a significant exfoliation effect on the skin via corneodesmosome dissolution.

METHODS

Therefore, to support this exploration, sodium salicylate (NaSal), a common ingredient employed in skin care products, is applied ex vivo to microcomedones,collected by nose strip adhesive tape, and their nanomechanical properties are assessed using AFM. Although the exact biochemical mechanism of NaSal on microcomedones is not fully understood at present, it appears to exhibit a significant exfoliation effect on the skin via corneodesmosome dissolution.

RESULTS

Herein, our findings demonstrate that when microcomedones are treated with 2% NaSal, samples appeared significantly more compliant ('softer') ((1.3 ± 0.62) MPa) when compared to their pre-treated measurements ((7.2 ± 3.6) MPa; p = 0.038). Furthermore, elastic modulus maps showed that after 2% NaSal treatment, areas in the microcomedone appeared softer and swollen in some, but not in all areas, further proving the valuable impact of 2% NaSal solution in altering the biomechanical properties and morphologies in microcomedones.

CONCLUSION

Our results are the first of their kind to provide qualitative and quantitative mechanobiological evidence that 2% NaSal decreases the elastic modulus of microcomedones. Therefore, this study provides evidence that NaSal can be beneficial as an active ingredient in topical treatments aimed at targeting microcomedones.

Differences between perceived age and chronological age in women: A multi-ethnic and multi-centre study

Objective

Accuracy in assessing age from facial cues is important in social perception given reports of strong negative correlations between perceived age and assessments of health and attractiveness. In a multi‐ethnic and multi‐centre study, we previously documented similar patterns of female facial age assessments across ethnicities, influenced by gender and ethnicity of assessors.

Methods

Here we extend these findings by examining differences between estimated age from digital portraits and chronological age (Δ age) for 180 women from three age groups (20–34, 35–49, 50–66 years) and five ethnicities (36 images of each ethnicity, assessed for age on a continuous scale by 120 female and male raters of each ethnicity).

Results

Across ethnicities, Δ age was smallest in French assessors and largest in South African assessors. Numerically, French women were judged oldest and Chinese women youngest relative to chronological age. In younger women, Δ age was larger than in middle‐aged and older women. This effect was particularly evident when considering the interaction of women's age with assessor gender and ethnicity, independently and together, on Δ age.

Conclusion

Collectively, our findings suggest that accuracy in assessments of female age from digital portraits depends on the chronological age and ethnicity of the photographed women and the ethnicity and gender of the assessor. We discuss the findings concerning ethnic variation in skin pigmentation and visible signs of ageing and comment on implications for cosmetic science.

Cross-cultural perception of female facial appearance: A multi-ethnic and multi-centre study

Humans extract and use information from the face in assessments of physical appearance. Previous research indicates high agreement about facial attractiveness within and between cultures. However, the use of a narrow age range for facial stimuli, limitations due to unidirectional cross-cultural comparisons, and technical challenges have prevented definitive conclusions about the universality of face perception. In the present study, we imaged the faces of women aged 20 to 69 years in five locations (China, France, India, Japan, and South Africa) and secured age, attractiveness, and health assessments on continuous scales (0-100) from female and male raters (20-66 years) within and across ethnicity. In total, 180 images (36 of each ethnicity) were assessed by 600 raters (120 of each ethnicity), recruited in study centres in the five locations. Linear mixed model analysis revealed main and interaction effects of assessor ethnicity, assessor gender, and photographed participant ("face") ethnicity on age, attractiveness, and health assessments. Thus, differences in judgments of female facial appearance depend on the ethnicity of the photographed person, the ethnicity of the assessor, and whether the assessor is female or male. Facial age assessments correlated negatively with attractiveness and health assessments. Collectively, these findings provide evidence of cross-cultural variation in assessments of age, and even more of attractiveness, and health, indicating plasticity in perception of female facial appearance across cultures, although the decline in attractiveness and health assessments with age is universally found.

Topical niacinamide enhances hydrophobicity and resilience of corneocyte envelopes on different facial locations

Age-related differences in maturation parameters of corneocyte envelopes (size, hydrophobicity and rigidity) were examined at several facial test sites in young and old female Caucasians. In addition, the effect of topically applied niacinamide on these parameters was evaluated in a 4-week placebo-controlled study.

The importance of 12R-lipoxygenase and transglutaminase activities in the hydration-dependent ex vivo maturation of corneocyte envelopes

Background

Terminally differentiated keratinocytes acquire corneocyte protein envelopes (CPE) complexed with corneocyte lipid envelopes (CLE). These two structural components of the corneocyte envelopes (CEs) undergo maturation by gaining in hydrophobicity, rigidity and surface area. Linoleoyl acylceramides are processed by 12R‐lipoxygenase (12R‐LOX) and other enzymes before transglutaminase (TG) attaches ω‐hydroxyceramides to involucrin in the CPE. Concurrently, structural proteins are cross‐linked by TG that has been activated by cathepsin D (CathD).

Objectives

The primary aim of this work was to demonstrate the impact of relative humidity (RH) during ex vivo CE maturation. Low, optimal and high RH were selected to investigate the effect of protease inhibitors (PIs) on CE maturation and TG activity; in addition, 12R‐LOX and CathD activity were measured at optimal RH. Finally, the effect of glycerol on ex vivo CE maturation was tested at low, optimal and high RH.

Methods

The first and ninth tape strip of photo‐exposed (PE) cheek and photo‐protected (PP) post‐auricular sites of healthy volunteers were selected. Ex vivo CE maturation was assessed via the relative CE maturity (RCEM) approach based on CE rigidity and hydrophobicity. The second and eighth tapes were exposed to RH in the presence of inhibitors.

Results

Irrespective of tape stripping depth, CEs from PE samples attained CE rigidity to the same extent as mature CEs from the PP site, but such improvement was lacking for CE hydrophobicity. 70% RH was optimal for ex vivo CE maturation. The inhibition of 12R‐LOX activity resulted in enhanced CE rigidity which was reduced by the TG inhibitor. CE hydrophobicity remained unchanged during ex vivo maturation in the presence of TG or 12R‐LOX inhibition. CE hydrophobicity was enhanced in the presence of glycerol at 44% RH and 100% RH but not at 70% RH. Furthermore, TG activity was significantly diminished at 100% RH compared to the commercial inhibitor LDN‐27219. However, a protease inhibitor mix reversed the negative effect of overhydration.

Conclusion

The study adds to the understanding of the roles of 12R‐LOX and TG activity in CE maturation and gives further insight into the effect of glycerol on the SC.

Clinical and in vitro evaluation of new anti-redness cosmetic products in subjects with winter xerosis and sensitive skin

Objective

To demonstrate the in vitro activities of panthenol, palmitoylethanolamide (PEA), and niacinamide (NAM) and determine the biophysical properties, clinical safety, tolerability together with efficacy of two developmental anti‐redness (AR) formulations containing these ingredients, in alleviating facial redness associated with winter xerosis in healthy volunteers with sensitive skin.

Methods

The anti‐inflammatory and skin protective properties of panthenol, PEA and NAM were evaluated in vitro. The physical properties of the AR formulations were analysed using measurement of water vapour transport rate (WVTR) and infrared spectroscopy. Clinical studies were performed between the months of December and April (2014–2015) with efficacy assessed during the winter. Facial redness, irritation, sensitization potential, photo‐irritation, and photo‐sensitization were evaluated. Self‐assessed adverse reactions were reported in diaries of use.

Results

Panthenol and PEA reduced prostaglandin E₂, interleukin‐6, and thymic stromal lymphopoietin levels in vitro, while NAM induced nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD) levels and the keratinocyte differentiation markers: filaggrin (2‐fold increase, P < 0.001), loricrin (2‐fold increase, P < 0.05), involucrin (2 fold increase, P < 0.001) & peroxisomal proliferator activated receptor‐alpha (1.5 fold increase, P < 0.05). The two AR products exhibited low WVTR vs. no treatment (P < 0.001) and displayed an ordered lipid structure. The day cream formulation protected against ultraviolet B radiation in vitro. A total of 382 participants were included in clinical studies which showed the AR formulations significantly improved facial redness associated with winter xerosis (Day 29 mean change from baseline: AR day cream 0.77 (P < 0.001); AR serum 0.67 (P < 0.001)). No irritation, sensitization, photo‐irritation, photo‐sensitization or product‐related adverse reactions were observed or reported in the clinical studies.

Conclusion

The new products significantly improved skin redness associated with winter xerosis in participants with self‐perceived sensitive skin. Both products were well tolerated with a suitable safety profile for topical use in subjects with sensitive skin.

An image-based mapping of significance and relevance of facial skin colour changes of females living in Thailand

Objective

There are methods to evaluate skin colour on defined areas over the face but no approach automatically and accurately evaluates skin colour variations on large facial areas, comparing subjects, treatments and/or time points. We propose such an image‐based approach to visualize quickly the outcome of clinical studies on colour variations.

Methods

Among 54 Asian women, one group applied a vehicle twice daily, during 28 days, and the other group an anti‐ageing emulsion, taking facial images at baseline and after treatment. Changes in L*a*b* values were studied on four pre‐selected facial regions. We also reconstructed average facial images from which the L*a*b* parameters were extracted for every pixel, computing relevance (ΔE) and significance data. Using colour gradients, we mapped these results onto the average facial images.

Results

After treatment, L*a*b* parameters show no statistically relevant colour changes in the vehicle group. In the ‘active’ group, skin was lighter at the upper cheek and, overall, redness decreased. Relevance and significance maps confirmed no visible colour changes in the vehicle group. In the ‘active’ group, the mapping approach revealed colour changes and their location. Skin became lighter below the eye, cheek and forehead. It was less red below the eyes, on the cheek, jawline and forehead, and generally more yellow.

Conclusion

Our image‐based mapping approach proves to be powerful. It enables us to identify precise facial regions of relevant and statistically significant colour changes after a topical treatment, regions that would have otherwise been undetected.

Expression and ultrastructural localization of plasmin(ogen) in the terminally differentiated layers of normal human epidermis

Objective

Plasmin, a relatively unspecific trypsin‐like serine protease, is involved in many physiological and pathological conditions, particularly in dermatoses with barrier impairment. It is secreted as the inactive zymogen plasminogen and is activated to plasmin by plasminogen activators, such as urokinase. There still exists a paucity of data on the precise localization of epidermal plasmin(ogen) within the epidermis and the stratum corneum. The aim of the present study was to get information about its origin and ultrastructural localization within normal human epidermis.

Method

We performed immunoelectron transmission electron microscopy immunogold labelling in normal abdominal human skin.

Result

Plasmin was only observed in the terminally differentiated cell layers of the epidermis and was largely associated with the corneocyte envelopes and to some extent with the intercellular lipid matrix in the stratum corneum.

Conclusion

Our results indicate that in normal human skin, plasmin(ogen) is synthesized by differentiated epidermal keratinocytes of the stratum granulosum and is not serum‐born.

Facial skin mapping: from single point bio-instrumental evaluation to continuous visualization of skin hydration, barrier function, skin surface pH, and sebum in different ethnic skin types

Dry skin is one of the most important concerns of consumers worldwide. Despite huge efforts over several decades, the personal care industry still does not offer a perfect solution to satisfy the unmet needs of consumers for moisturising treatments in different ethnic groups. The paucity of data for the underlying cellular and biochemical problems in, and the effects of moisturisers on photodamaged facial skin may partly explain this. Mainly, single point measurements are used to understand the effects of products on skin physiology even on surrogate skin sites such as the non‐photodamaged volar forearm. Some groups have developed discontinuous facial maps of skin biophysical properties, however, in 2014 a continuous facial analysis of bio‐instrumental evaluations was developed using a heat map approach. These maps enabled a continuous visualization of features that not only revealed an unexpected complexity of facial skin but also indicated that use of surrogate skin sites for facial skin is inappropriate. We have demonstrated that remarkable gradients of skin hydration, TEWL, skin surface pH and sebum exist within short distances across the face and the gradients are distinctive among different ethnic groups. In addition, these studies have demonstrated that darkly‐pigmented individuals do not necessarily have a better skin barrier function than their less‐pigmented counterparts and that Caucasians have a lower facial skin surface pH compared with more pigmented subjects. Overall, there are no correlations between capacitance, TEWL and skin surface pH including individual topology angle values. Novel 3D camera approaches have also been used to facilitate a more precise assignment of measurement sites and visualisation. The 3D facial colour mappings illustrated precisely the local moisturising effects of a moisturising cream. There were subtle ethnic differences in efficacy that may be related to underlying skin biochemistry and/or ethnic differences in product application. A placebo‐controlled study using conductance measurements in Chinese subjects is also reported. Finally, a new whole face statistical approach has been taken to prove differences in skin parameters but also of moisturiser treatment that adds further to our understanding of the ethnic differences in skin physiology and product application. This paper reviews the background of the development and application of this methodology.

12R-lipoxygenase activity is reduced in photodamaged facial stratum corneum. A novel activity assay indicates a key function in corneocyte maturation

Background

During the late stage of keratinocyte differentiation, corneocytes gain a strong protein–lipid structure: the corneocyte envelopes (CE), composed of the inner corneocyte protein envelope (CPE) and the outer corneocyte lipid envelope (CLE). The hydrophobicity of CEs depends on the covalent attachment of linoleoyl‐acyl‐ceramides by transglutaminases (TG). These ceramides are processed by a range of other enzymes, including 12R‐lipoxygenase (12R‐LOX), before the covalent attachment of the free ω‐hydroxyceramides to the CPE surface to form the CLE. The mechanical strength of CE is obtained with the formation of isodipeptide bonds by TG. The increase in hydrophobicity and rigidity leads to CE maturation which supports the integrity and mechanical resistance of the stratum corneum (SC).

Objectives

The aim of this work was to develop and validate a novel enzyme activity assay for 12R‐LOX in tape strippings of photo‐exposed (PE) cheek and photo‐protected (PP) post‐auricular SC of healthy Chinese volunteers (n = 12; age 25 ± 3 years).

Results

A fluorescence‐based assay was developed with ethyl linoleic acid as the substrate and a polyclonal antibody against 12R‐LOX as an inhibitor. The specificity was shown by the lack of effect by a LOX inhibitor (ML351) and an epidermal‐type lipoxygenase 3 (eLOX3) antibody on the acquired 12R‐LOX activity. Reduced 12R‐LOX activity was observed in the outer compared to the inner SC layers. Moreover, dramatically lower activity was shown in the PE vs. PP samples. Furthermore, the enzyme activity has a positive correlation (r = 0.94 ± 0.03) with CE maturity, in particular hydrophobicity, and a negative correlation (r = −0.96 ± 0.01) with transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

Conclusion

This novel enzyme assay revealed a lower 12R‐LOX activity in tape strippings from PE cheek for the first time. This finding is in line with less mature CEs and higher TEWL compared to PP post‐auricular samples. This study indicates a strong link between 12R‐LOX activity and CE maturation and SC integrity.

Mass spectrometry-based proteomics reveals the distinct nature of the skin proteomes of photoaged compared to intrinsically aged skin

OBJECTIVE

With increasing age, skin is subject to alterations in its organization, which impact on its function as well as having clinical consequences. Proteomics is a useful tool for non-targeted, semi-quantitative simultaneous investigation of high numbers of proteins. In the current study, we utilize proteomics to characterize and contrast age-associated differences in photoexposed and photoprotected skin, with a focus on the epidermis, dermal-epidermal junction and papillary dermis.

METHODS

Skin biopsies from buttock (photoprotected) and forearm (photoexposed) of healthy volunteers (aged 18-30 or ≥65 years) were transversely sectioned from the stratum corneum to a depth of 250 μm. Following SDS-PAGE, each sample lane was segmented prior to analysis by liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry/mass spectrometry. Pathway analysis was carried out using Ingenuity IPA.

RESULTS

Comparison of skin proteomes at buttock and forearm sites revealed differences in relative protein abundance. Ageing in skin on the photoexposed forearm resulted in 80% of the altered proteins being increased with age, in contrast to the photoprotected buttock where 74% of altered proteins with age were reduced. Functionally, age-altered proteins in the photoexposed forearm were associated with conferring structure, energy and metabolism. In the photoprotected buttock, proteins associated with gene expression, free-radical scavenging, protein synthesis and protein degradation were most frequently altered.

CONCLUSION

This study highlights the necessity of not considering photoageing as an accelerated intrinsic ageing, but as a distinct physiological process.

A series of in vitro and human studies of a novel lip cream formulation for protecting against environmental triggers of recurrent herpes labialis

Purpose

These studies describe the testing of a novel, daily-use lip cream designed for individuals with lips prone to recurrent herpes labialis (RHL) that protects against environmental triggers.

Subjects and methods

In vitro occlusive and in vitro and in vivo photoprotection analyses, a characterization of normal vs dry lips, and a randomized, evaluator-blinded, clinical trial that assessed the lip cream in healthy subjects with dry lips were conducted. In the clinical trial, subjects applied the lip cream or were untreated and evaluated using transepidermal water loss (TEWL), corneometry, visual assessments of lip dryness, expert photographic evaluations, and subject-rated outcomes.

Results

The lip cream’s in vitro water vapor transmission rate (84.1 g/(m² h)) indicated moderate occlusivity. The lip cream, but not placebo or control (water), reduced ultraviolet A (UVA)- and UVB-induced DNA damage, and tumor necrosis factor-α (EpiDerm^FT) and pros-taglandin E₂ release (EpiDerm^FT and EpiGingival™). The lip cream’s in vivo sun protection factor (SPF) was 12.2 (lower confidence limit, 11.3) and SPF/UVA protection factor ratio was 0.9. The characterization of dry vs normal lips identified differences in moisturization. In the clinical trial, the lip cream significantly decreased TEWL (difference: −7.19 [95% CI: −11.41, −2.98]; P<0.01), increased corneometry (difference: 4.62 [95% CI: 1.05, 8.19]; P<0.05), and reduced visual dryness (difference: −1.48 [95% CI: 2.24, −0.71]; P<0.001) compared to untreated subjects. Significant benefits were also observed on expert photographic assessments of scaling (difference: −0.89 [95% CI: −1.75, −0.03]; P< 0.05), cupping (difference: −1.50 [95% CI: −2.30, −0.70]; P<0.001), and healthy appearance (difference: −1.44 [95% CI: −2.29, −0.58]; P<0.01); differences in overall healthy appearance were not significant (P=0.51). Subject-rated assessments indicated improvements in cracking, dryness, and flaking in the lip cream group but worsening in untreated subjects.

Conclusion

These studies indicate that this novel, daily-use lip cream protects against UV radiation, drying, and chapping, which are established environmental RHL triggers.

Appearance of aging signs in differently pigmented facial skin by a novel imaging system

Background

Facial wrinkles, pores, and uneven skin tone are major beauty concerns. There is differential manifestation of aging signs in different ethnic groups. In this regard, studies on Black Africans from the African continent are scarce.

Objective

To investigate facial wrinkles, pores, and skin tone in Black African women from Mauritius Island and elucidate the differences to Caucasian women from France.

Methods

Facial images were taken using the imaging system ColorFace^®. Wrinkles and pores were measured by their length, depth, surface, volume, and number; for skin tone, we measured L*a*b* and calculated ITA, IWA_Newtone, and color homogeneity.

Results

We found good correlations of wrinkle and pore scores with expert ranking done on ColorFace^® images for Caucasians (Spearman's rho = 0.78 and 0.72) and Black Africans (Spearman's rho = 0.86 and 0.65). Caucasians showed more advanced facial signs of aging than Black Africans. Exceptions were vertical lines on upper lip and the depth of pores which were greatest for the Black African subjects. Black Africans had higher heterogeneity scores indicative for uneven skin tone. Luminance (L*) was significantly higher in Caucasians but a* and b* values were significantly higher in the Black African subjects. ITA and IWA_Newtone were significantly higher for Caucasians.

Conclusions

The high correlation between expert ranking and wrinkle and pore measurements prove ColorFace^® a valid imaging system to study skin aging. Our results show that Africans from the African continent show delayed signs of aging compared to Caucasians. Some exceptions suggest that ethnic differences in facial aging are a complex phenomenon.

Early-life regional and temporal variation in filaggrin-derived natural moisturizing factor, filaggrin-processing enzyme activity, corneocyte phenotypes and plasmin activity: implications for atopic dermatitis

Background

Filaggrin is central to the pathogenesis of atopic dermatitis (AD). The cheeks are a common initiation site of infantile AD. Regional and temporal expression of levels of filaggrin degradation products [natural moisturizing factors (NMFs)], activities of filaggrin‐processing enzymes [bleomycin hydrolase (BH) and calpain‐1 (C‐1)] and plasmin, and corneocyte envelope (CE) maturity in early life are largely unknown.

Objectives

We conducted a cross‐sectional, observational study investigating regional and age‐dependent variations in NMF levels, activity of proteases and CE maturity in stratum corneum (SC) from infants to determine whether these factors could explain the observed predilection sites for AD in early life.

Methods

We measured NMF using a tape‐stripping method at seven sites in the SC of 129 children (aged < 12 months to 72 months) and in three sites in 56 neonates and infants (< 48 h to 3 months). In 37 of these neonates and infants, corneocyte size, maturity, BH, C‐1 and plasmin activities were determined.

Results

NMF levels are low at birth and increase with age. Cheek SC, compared with elbow flexure and nasal tip, has the lowest NMF in the first year of life and is the slowest to reach stable levels. Cheek corneocytes remain immature. Plasmin, BH and C‐1 activities are all elevated by 1 month of age in exposed cheek skin, but not in elbow skin.

Conclusions

Regional and temporal differences in NMF levels, CE maturity and protease activities may explain the predilection for AD to affect the cheeks initially and are supportive of this site as key for allergen priming in early childhood. These observations will help design early intervention and treatment strategies for AD.

What's already known about this topic?

Atopic dermatitis (AD) frequently starts in early infancy, and the first eczematous lesions emerge on the cheeks.

Filaggrin is a major structural protein in the stratum corneum (SC).

Filaggrin deficiency is associated with the development of AD and, in the context of AD, food allergies and asthma.

Filaggrin is metabolized into natural moisturizing factors (NMFs), which can be measured in the SC.

What does this study add?

Regional differences in NMF levels, corneocyte envelope immaturity and protease activities may help explain why infantile AD most often initially affects the cheeks.

Filaggrin processing, corneocyte maturity, and protease activities show regional and temporal differences in infant skin.

These findings may explain disease patterns in early‐life AD.

What is the translational message?

Cheek skin may be highly relevant for allergen priming.

Emollient therapy at the vulnerable cheek site might help to prevent AD and/or food sensitization.

Linked Editorial: https://doi.org/10.1111/bjd.16806.

https://doi.org/10.1111/bjd.16959 available online

https://goo.gl/Uqv3dl

A new approach to assess the effect of photodamage on corneocyte envelope maturity using combined hydrophobicity and mechanical fragility assays

BACKGROUND

The maturity of the corneocyte envelope (CE) provides information about the barrier functionality of the stratum corneum (SC). Corneocytes are enclosed by the CE, a protein-lipid matrix, contributing to mechanical resistance and hydrophobicity of the SC.

OBJECTIVES

The aim of the work was to develop a novel and robust approach to characterize CE maturity based on rigidity, hydrophobicity and surface area. This offers an alternative approach to the Nile red staining and antigenicity of involucrin to characterize the CE. The photoexposed (PE) cheek and photoprotected (PP) post-auricular sites were selected for investigation.

METHODS

Nine tape strips were obtained from the cheek and post-auricular sites of healthy Caucasians. CEs on the first and last tape strip were subjected to sonication to assess rigidity, and Nile red staining to determine hydrophobicity per unit surface area. In addition, the presence of involucrin and lipids was assessed to determine CE maturity by examination of the red/green pixel ratio, percentage of involucrin expressing CEs and alternatively the ratio of fluorescence density.

RESULTS

The CE rigidity was lower in the deeper SC layers of the cheek, whereas post-auricular CEs were mechanically more resistant. Post-auricular CEs from the superficial SC had a larger surface area with a stronger fluorescence signal than those from the cheek. Interestingly, those CEs from the deeper SC layers had similar surface areas in both anatomical sites but were significantly different in hydrophobicity. These three parameters can be summarized as a relative CE maturity index that expresses CE maturity more precisely with a higher sensitivity than the conventional involucrin and Nile red staining approach. CEs of the cheek surface are more mature than CEs in the deeper SC layer, whereas CEs obtained from the post-auricular surface are more mature than those from the cheek surface.

CONCLUSION

The combined method developed allows characterization of CE maturity based on hydrophobicity per unit surface area and rigidity rather than a simple ratio of lipid to involucrin. A more robust and sensitive measurement has therefore been developed addressing the limitations of earlier protocols.

The effect of photodamage on the female Caucasian facial stratum corneum corneome using mass spectrometry-based proteomics

BACKGROUND

The effect of photodamage on facial stratum corneum (SC) is still poorly understood.

OBJECTIVE

To describe the SC proteome from tape strippings of Caucasian SC from photoexposed cheek and photoprotected post-auricular (PA) site, a global analysis of photodamage on the skin will be developed leading to a better understanding of keratinocyte signalling pathways and identification of new molecular targets for the treatment of photoaged skin.

METHODS

Female Caucasian subjects had nine consecutive tape strippings taken from their cheeks and PA site. Proteins were extracted and the trypsin-digested peptides were analysed by nanochromatography coupled to a high-resolution mass spectrometer. Data-dependent acquisition allowed protein identification that was processed by Paragon algorithm of Protein Pilot software.

RESULTS

Changes in the levels of epidermal differentiation proteins were apparent indicating poor epidermal differentiation and SC maturation (keratins, cornified envelope (CE) proteins) on photoexposed cheeks. Differences in protease-anti-protease balance were observed for corneodesmolysis (favouring desquamation) and filaggrinolysis (favouring reduced filaggrin processing). 12R-LOX, a CE maturation enzyme, was reduced in photodamaged skin but not transglutaminases. Changes in signal keratinocyte transduction pathway markers were demonstrated especially by reduced levels of downstream signalling markers such as calreticulin (unfolded protein response; UPR) and increased level of stratifin (target of rapamycin; mTOR). Evidence for impaired proteostasis was apparent by reduced levels of a key proteasomal subunit (subunit beta type-6). Finally, key antioxidant proteins were upregulated except catalase.

CONCLUSION

Clear examples of poor keratinocyte differentiation and associated metabolic and signalling pathways together with reduced SC maturation were identified in photodamaged facial SC. Corneocyte immaturity was evident with changes in CE proteins. Particularly, the reduction in 12R-LOX is a novel finding in photodamaged skin and supports the lack of SC maturation. Moreover, filaggrinolysis was reduced, whereas corneodesmolysis was enhanced. From our results, we propose that there is a poor cross-talk between the keratinocyte endoplasmic reticulum UPR, proteasome network and autophagy machinery that possibly leads to impaired keratinocyte proteostasis. Superimposed on these aberrations is an apparently enhanced mTOR pathway that also contributes to reduced SC formation and maturation. Our results clearly indicate a corneocyte scaffold disorder in photodamaged cheek SC.

Fractionated aliphatic alcohols as synthetic precursors of ultra long-chain monoacylglycerols for cosmetic applications

BACKGROUND

Xerosis is an abnormally dry and flaky skin condition that is associated with a change in the packing behaviour of the lipid matrix in the stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of the skin. This skin condition can lead to an increase in transepidermal water loss (TEWL). As ultralong-chain fatty acids have a positive effect on maintaining the packing behaviour of the SC lipid matrix, a moisturizer which contains glycerides of ultralong-chain fatty acids could act as a semi-occlusive layer on the surface of the skin. This will lower the rate of water evaporation through the epidermis and consequently help prevent or improve skin xerosis.

OBJECTIVE

To identify a novel source of ultralong-chain lipids and develop monoacylglycerols with mixed fatty acyl chain lengths that have occlusive properties superior to petrolatum.

METHODS

Initially, Performacol 425, a mixture of very long-chain fatty alcohols, was fractionated using short path distillation to yield a fraction enriched with C22:0-C26:0 fatty alcohols. The fatty alcohol fraction was then oxidized using Jones reagent, and the resulting fatty acids were esterified with glycerol to yield the corresponding monoglycerides using Novozym 435. These were then evaluated using Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, differential scanning calorimetry and water vapour transmission rate measurements.

RESULTS

The monoacylglycerols enriched with C22:0-C26:0 displayed a melting point of 80°C and orthorhombic packing; packing behaviour mainly present in healthy SC. In addition, a phospholipid-structured emulsion containing 3% of the monoglycerides displayed occlusive properties superior to the vehicle containing 3% petrolatum jelly.

CONCLUSIONS

Performacol 425 can be a potential source of fatty alcohols to synthesize monoacylglycerols that can improve the occlusive behaviour of phospholipid-structured emulsions.

Effect of allergens and irritants on levels of natural moisturizing factor and corneocyte morphology

BACKGROUND

The irritant sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) is known to cause a decrease in the stratum corneum level of natural moisturizing factor (NMF), which in itself is associated with changes in corneocyte surface topography.

OBJECTIVE

To explore this phenomenon in allergic contact dermatitis.

METHODS

Patch testing was performed on patients with previously positive patch test reactions to potassium dichromate (Cr), nickel sulfate (Ni), methylchloroisothiazolinone (MCI)/methylisothiazolinone (MI), or p-phenylenediamine. Moreover, a control (pet.) patch and an irritant (SLS) patch were applied. After 3 days, the stratum corneum from tested sites was collected, and NMF levels and corneocyte morphology, expressed as the amount of circular nanosize objects, quantified according to the Dermal Texture Index (DTI), were determined.

RESULTS

Among allergens, only MCI/MI reduced NMF levels significantly, as did SLS. Furthermore, only MCI/MI caused remarkable changes at the microscopic level; the corneocytes were hexagonal-shaped with pronounced cell borders and a smoother surface. The DTI was increased after SLS exposure but not after allergen exposure.

CONCLUSIONS

MCI/MI significantly decreased NMF levels, similarly to SLS. The altered corneocyte morphology suggests that skin barrier damage plays a role in the pathogenesis of MCI/MI contact allergy. The DTI seems to differentiate reactions to SLS from those to the allergens tested, as SLS was the only agent that caused a DTI increase.

Effect of different alcohols on stratum corneum kallikrein 5 and phospholipase A2 together with epidermal keratinocytes and skin irritation

OBJECTIVES

The aim of this exploratory study was to investigate the effect of ethanol, isopropanol and n-propanol on stratum corneum (SC) enzymes and keratinocytes in vitro together with their effects on skin condition and function.

METHODS

Activities of kallikrein 5 (KLK5) and phospholipase A2 (PLA2) as well as keratinocyte metabolic activity, interleukin-1α (IL-1α) and tumor necrosis factor-α (TNF-α) were measured in vitro in the presence and absence of the different alcohols. We also measured transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin capacitance, visual dryness and visual redness on the volar forearms of 25 Caucasian women following application of the alcohols 20 and 100 times per day over a period of 14 days in a clinical study.

RESULTS

Reduced activities of KLK5 and PLA2 were observed in the presence of the alcohols. The greatest denaturing effect was always observed for n-propanol (P < 0.001), and in the case of PLA2, the effect of isopropanol was greater than ethanol (P < 0.001). Equally, ethanol had the mildest effects on keratinocyte metabolic activity and cytokine secretion (P < 0.001) and n-propanol always produced the most severe changes in normal and differentiated keratinocytes. These in vitro findings supported the clinical results where the major effects were on the induction of skin irritation (increased dropout rates) and ranked the intolerance of the different alcohols as follows: n-propanol > isopropanol > ethanol. At the high application frequencies, the effect of the different alcohols on transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and skin capacitance was similar, but at the low application frequencies, n-propanol had a significant effect on TEWL and capacitance values (P < 0.05). Equally, n-propanol and isopropanol produced significantly more skin redness at the low application frequencies.

CONCLUSIONS

Clearly, isopropanol and n-propanol caused significant SC and keratinocyte perturbation in vitro together with damage to skin condition and function in vivo whereas ethanol did not. As a result, we show that ethanol-based sanitizers are better tolerated by skin, particularly in high-use settings, than other alcohols and should be the active ingredient of choice.

The effects of benzylsulfonyl-D-Ser-homoPhe-(4-amidino-benzylamide), a dual plasmin and urokinase inhibitor, on facial skin barrier function in subjects with sensitive skin

OBJECTIVE

The aim of this study was to optimize the synthesis of the plasmin and urokinase (uPA) inhibitor benzylsulfonyl-D-Ser-homoPhe-(4-amidino-benzylamide) (BSFAB), to characterize its activity and mechanism of action and to assess its use to improve stratum corneum (SC) barrier function.

METHODS

Peptide coupling methods were used to synthesize BSFAB, and high-performance liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (HPLC-MS) together with ¹ H- and ¹³ C-nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopy (NMR) were applied to clarify its structure and determine its purity. Its binding mode was determined by docking studies to the catalytic domains of plasmin and uPA. Inhibition constants (K_i ) were determined by enzyme kinetic studies, and the effect of BSFAB on plasmin, uPA and transglutaminase 1 expression was evaluated in non-cytokine and cytokine-stimulated keratinocytes. A vehicle-controlled clinical study on SC barrier function was conducted on facial skin of subjects with self-perceived sensitive skin.

RESULTS

BSFAB was synthesized with high purity (97.3%). In silico studies indicated that the amidine moiety of BSFAB was anchored in the S1 pocket of both enzymes by binding to Asp189, Ser190 and Gly219, whereas the backbone of the D-Ser residue makes an anti-parallel β-sheet interaction with Gly216. BSFAB was shown to be an effective inhibitor of plasmin and uPA with K_i values of 29 and 25 nM, respectively. BSFAB also inhibited keratinocyte-secreted protease activities in basal (plasmin inhibition 37.7%, P < 0.05 and uPA inhibition 96.6%, P < 0.01) and cytokine-induced conditions (plasmin inhibition 41.1%, P < 0.05 and uPA inhibition 97.0%, P < 0.001) and stimulated the gene expression of transglutaminase 1 in cytokine-stimulated keratinocytes (approximately 4.5 times increased expression, P < 0.01). Clinically, BSFAB was shown to improve SC barrier integrity (P < 0.02 on day 29) and subjective improvements in the perception of healthy skin (P < 0.05 on day 28).

CONCLUSION

BSFAB binds as a reversible competitive inhibitor to the active sites of plasmin and uPA. Additionally, BSFAB positively improved keratinocyte differentiation gene expression (transglutaminase 1). These effects were translated into improvements in SC barrier integrity clinically in subjects with dry and sensitive skin and improved their perception of having a healthy skin condition.

A fundamental investigation into aspects of the physiology and biochemistry of the stratum corneum in subjects with sensitive skin

BACKGROUND

Sensitive skin is a poorly understood skin condition. Defects in stratum corneum (SC) barrier function and/or extrasensory neuronal networks in the epidermis are believed to be involved in the problem.

OBJECTIVES

This study aimed to unravel the relationships between bleomycin hydrolase (BH) and calpain-1 (C-1), pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA) levels, corneocyte maturation, transglutaminase (TG) and plasmin activities on the cheeks of subjects with sensitive skin.

METHODS

Forty-eight female Caucasian subjects, Fitzpatrick skin phototypes II-III, with self-perceived sensitive facial skin, were assessed and underwent a capsaicin reactivity test. Expert grading of skin condition was conducted as well as the measurement of transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin capacitance, SC cohesion and SC integrity. BH, C-1 and plasmin activities were measured as well as PCA levels, plasmin and TG activity. Differential Nile red and involucrin immunostaining was performed to assess corneocyte maturation and size.

RESULTS

About 52% of the subjects reacted to capsaicin. There were no significant differences between the capsaicin-sensitive and non-capsaicin-sensitive subjects with reference to skin grading, TEWL, skin capacitance and SC cohesion. PCA levels and BH activity were lowest in the capsaicin-sensitive panel (P < 0.05) and were correlated in non-capsaicin-sensitive subjects (r = 0.72). The activity of TG was significantly lower (48%) in the capsaicin-sensitive subjects (P < 0.001) and their corneocytes were less mature and smaller (P ≤ 0.05). SC was estimated to be thinner (6.87 ± 0.28 vs. 8.68 ± 0.26 μm; P = 0.001) in the capsaicin-sensitive subjects with a corresponding shorter SC path length (83.2 ± 4.4 μm and 113.1 ± 4.5 μm; P = 0.001).

CONCLUSIONS

Despite the physiological similarities between the two groups of sensitive skin subjects, differences in their biochemistry were clearly evident. Lower levels of PCA, BH and TG activities together with a greater number of smaller and immature corneocytes indicate inferior SC maturation in the capsaicin-sensitive subjects. The reduced maturation of corneocytes and thinner SC likely contributes to a greater penetration of capsaicin and the associated increased skin sensitivity.

Variation in the activities of late stage filaggrin processing enzymes, calpain-1 and bleomycin hydrolase, together with pyrrolidone carboxylic acid levels, corneocyte phenotypes and plasmin activities in non-sun-exposed and sun-exposed facial stratum corneum of different ethnicities

BACKGROUND

Knowledge of the ethnic differences and effects of photodamage on the relative amounts of natural moisturizing factor (NMF) together with filaggrin processing enzymes in facial stratum corneum is limited. Our aim was to characterize the activities of calpain-1 (C-1), bleomycin hydrolase (BH) and the levels of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA) as a marker for total NMF levels and to relate them to plasmin activities and corneocyte maturation.

METHODS

Enzyme activities, PCA levels and corneocyte maturation were determined from facial tape strippings of photoexposed cheek and photoprotected post-auricular areas (PA) of healthy Caucasian (C), Black African (BA) and albino African (AA) female subjects living in South Africa.

RESULTS

PCA concentration levels were of the order AA > BA > C subjects, and the highest activities of BH were present in the AA subjects. BH activities were greater on the photoexposed sites for the BA and C subjects, but they were only numerically elevated in the AA subjects. Photoprotected sites had an increase in C-1 activity in pigmented groups (C and BA), whereas in the AA subjects, the opposite was measured. Plasmin activities were greater on the cheek compared with the PA site for the AA and C subjects, but the activity was low in the BA subjects. In both test sites, the AA, but not the BA and C subjects, had smaller, parakeratotic and less mature corneocytes.

CONCLUSION

Variation in PCA levels has been found for different ethnic groups in this study (AA > BA > C subjects). The values in the AA subjects are surprising as one might expect that the lack of pigmentation, and thereby increased photodamage, might lead to lower levels. Increased BH, but not C-1 activity, was observed in the AA subjects indicating that BH is associated with PCA production to a greater extent. Surprisingly, corneocyte maturation is still impaired with elevated PCA levels in AA subjects. The higher levels of plasmin and BH activities on the cheeks, especially for AA and C subjects, suggest that they can be used as markers for epidermal photodamage.

A novel continuous colour mapping approach for visualization of facial skin hydration and transepidermal water loss for four ethnic groups

OBJECTIVES

The aim of this exploratory study was to develop a novel colour mapping approach to visualize and interpret the complexity of facial skin hydration and barrier properties of four ethnic groups (Caucasians, Indians, Chinese and Black Africans) living in Pretoria, South Africa.

METHODS

We measured transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and skin capacitance on 30 pre-defined sites on the forehead, cheek, jaw and eye areas of sixteen women (four per ethnic group) and took digital images of their faces. Continuous colour maps were generated by interpolating between each measured value and superimposing the values on the digital images.

RESULTS

The complexity of facial skin hydration and skin barrier properties is revealed by these measurements and visualized by the continuous colour maps of the digital images. Overall, the Caucasian subjects had the better barrier properties followed by the Black African subjects, Chinese subjects and Indian subjects. Nevertheless, the two more darkly pigmented ethnic groups had superior skin hydration properties. Subtle differences were seen when examining the different facial sites.

CONCLUSIONS

There exists remarkable skin capacitance and TEWL gradients within short distances on selected areas of the face. These gradients are distinctive in the different ethnic groups. In contrast to other reports, we found that darkly pigmented skin does not always have a superior barrier function and differences in skin hydration values are complex on the different parts of the face among the different ethnic groups.

Topical ceramides neither enhance UVB-induced apoptosis in normal human keratinocytes nor affect viability in UVB-irradiated reconstructed human epidermis

Ceramides are the major lipid of lamellar sheets present in intercellular spaces of the stratum corneum contributing to epidermal barrier properties. Therefore, ceramides and their analogues have been studied for barrier enhancing and water-holding properties for decades. In vitro studies have indicated cytotoxic potential for cell-permeable ceramides thereby raising the question whether topical ceramide application might contribute to UVB-induced apoptosis. Phytosphingosine, N-hexanoyl-phytosphingosine and N-stearoylphytosphingosine (ceramide III) in concentrations ≤5 μm have been used for co-stimulation with low (160 J/m(2) ) or high (600 J/m(2) ) UVB doses in subconfluent basal and confluent differentiating keratinocytes. Significantly, increased caspase-3 activity was observed in basal keratinocytes irradiated with 600 J/m(2) UVB and in differentiating keratinocytes with both UVB doses. Co-stimulation with the named ceramides did not further increase (i) caspase-3 activity and (ii) nucleosomal fragmentation in differentiating keratinocytes. Moreover, co-stimulation with 1-mm ceramides did not further affect viability/lactate dehydrogenase release in UVB-irradiated reconstructed human epidermis corroborating the safety of these ceramides.

Molecular basis for stratum corneum maturation and moisturization

This themed edition of BJD is dedicated to the work of Professor Ronald Marks for his untiring work on the understanding of stratum corneum (SC) structure and function. He and his coworkers, in my opinion, had the right focus for cosmetic dermatology issues. Namely, consumers experience the wonderful properties of the SC through sight, touch and the somatosensory system. They do not experience, for example, transepidermal water loss and skin conductance or capacitance! Marks understood this and set about developing the methodologies to examine the changes in SC architecture and function when desquamation goes haywire. More importantly, he understood that moisturizers do far more than simply hydrate the SC, as exemplified in the paper by Tree and Marks, 'An explanation for the placebo effect of bland ointment bases.' Moisturizing ingredients influence the properties of the SC in many ways with the sole purpose of overcoming the signs and symptoms of dry skin. Marks demonstrated the decrease in SC cohesion following use of hydrating agents, which led to the mechanistic work on the effects of a simple molecule like glycerol on the desquamatory process. In further exploiting forced desquamation and use of abrasion, he showed that improvements in exfoliation contribute to the mitigation of the signs of photodamaged skin, which can explain part of the antiageing effect of simple moisturizers. It is here that I should point out that at least this particular author in 1988 was 'standing on the shoulders of' a great corneologist whose work influenced his research directions. So this paper will provide an update on the latest developments for the molecular basis of SC maturation and moisturization, while highlighting the contributions of Professor Marks in the different areas.

Facial skin pigmentation is not related to stratum corneum cohesion, basal transepidermal water loss, barrier integrity and barrier repair

OBJECTIVE

Hypotheses have been developed for the evolutionary selection of skin pigmentation one of which relates to improved skin barrier function. The aim of this study was to compare facial skin condition on photoexposed (cheek) and photoprotected (post-auricular) sites of naturally pigmented subjects of different ethnicities (Fitzpatrick skin phototypes II/III and V/VI) and Albino African subjects to understand better the relationship between facial stratum corneum (SC) barrier function, skin surface pH and skin pigmentation.

METHODS

Expert grading of skin conditions, capacitance, skin surface pH and skin barrier function measurements were performed. For the latter, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) measurements before (basal TEWL), after 3, 6 and 9 consecutive tape strippings (SC integrity) and 3.5 and 24 h post tape stripping (barrier recovery) were taken. Amounts of SC protein removed during stripping were estimated using infrared densitometry (SC cohesion).

RESULTS

Firstly, correlation analysis of the biometric data of the Black African and Caucasian subjects showed there to be no relationship between skin surface pH and ITA° values nor pH and ITA° with basal TEWL. Neither skin surface pH nor ITA° correlated with SC integrity and barrier recovery measurements, but skin surface pH correlated with SC cohesion. ITA° values were correlated with skin hydration. Secondly, on comparing the three ethnic groups, severe skin photodamage was observed in the Albino African subjects and their SC was thicker. Whereas their basal TEWL was elevated, superior values for SC integrity and barrier recovery were measured. No differences in basal TEWL, SC integrity and barrier recovery were found between the other two subject groups. Equally, SC cohesion and skin surface pH values were similar among the three groups.

CONCLUSION

There was no relationship between ITA° values and basal TEWL, SC integrity, SC cohesion and barrier recovery, but ITA° was correlated with skin hydration. Skin surface pH, irrespective of ITA° values, correlated with SC cohesion, indicating a greater intracorneal cohesion at lower pH values. Thus, pigmentation has no effect on SC barrier properties but was related to skin hydration. On comparing the three ethnic groups, Albino African SC was found to be superior to the Caucasian and Black African subjects in terms of SC integrity and barrier recovery but not basal TEWL. The Albino African subjects also have a thicker SC which contributes to their better SC integrity. No differences in skin barrier functionality or skin surface pH were observed for the other two groups. Skin hydration was, however, greatest in the Black African subjects. Our data support the evolutionary hypothesis that pigmentation protects the skin from UV irradiation and thereby the skin barrier but not the skin pigmentation-/pH-driven adaptive skin barrier hypothesis.

Emollients are more than sensory ingredients: the case of isostearyl isostearate

In order to understand the skin benefits of emollient oil ingredients in topical skin moisturizers, one single highly popular in vivo method (corneometry), even when executed to perfection, does not suffice. A systematical exploration using a combination of bioengineering techniques shows how a previously unaccounted for mechanism of moisturization by internal occlusion was discovered. As a result, Isostearyl Isostearate turns out to be a highly functional moisturizer when several methodologies are used.

A review of the effects of moisturisers on the appearance of scars and striae

Scars are well known to have a stratum corneum that is malfunctional. Increases in transepidermal water loss and decreases in stratum corneum capacitance and conductance have been reported. Occlusion therapy is a well-known route to improving the signs and symptoms of scarring. Until recently that has been assumed to be totally pressure related. However, studies have demonstrated that the direct effects of hydration on keratinocytes and fibroblasts contribute to the reduction in hypertrophic scarring. Now it is well known that occlusion can regulate epidermal cytokine and growth factor production; changes in profibrotic and antifibrotic factors have been established. As a result it is to be expected that moisturisers may improve the signs and symptoms of scars. As striae have been suggested to be anatomically similar to scars and since it is well established that paracrine signalling occurs in skin it is expected that striae have similar stratum corneum issues. While one cannot exclude the effects of some of the ingredients used in the products, several studies are reported in this review which demonstrates that moisturisation is a key component to reducing the clinical signs and symptoms of scars and striae. This is a good example of how knowledge of corneobiology leads to corneotherapies for these skin condition problems. The paper is being written in memory of Professor Johann Wiechers who, before he died tragically in November 2011, performed two of the reported studies together with colleagues. © 2012 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Société Française de Cosmétologie.

A review of the effects of moisturizers on the appearance of scars and striae

Scars are well known to have a stratum corneum (SC) that is malfunctional. Increases in transepidermal water loss and decreases in SC capacitance and conductance have been reported. Occlusion therapy is a well-known route to improving the signs and symptoms of scarring. Until recently that has been assumed to be totally pressure related. However, studies have demonstrated that the direct effects of hydration on keratinocytes and fibroblasts contribute to the reduction in hypertrophic scarring. Now it is well known that occlusion can regulate epidermal cytokine and growth factor production; changes in profibrotic and anti-fibrotic factors have been established. As a result, it is to be expected that moisturizers may improve the signs and symptoms of scars. As striae have been suggested to be anatomically similar to scars and as it is well established that paracrine signalling occurs in skin, it is expected that striae have similar SC issues. While one cannot exclude the effects of some of the ingredients used in the products, several studies are reported in this review that demonstrates that moisturization is a key component to reducing the clinical signs and symptoms of scars and striae. This is a good example of how knowledge of corneobiology leads to corneotherapies for these skin condition problems. The review is being written in memory of Professor Johann Wiechers who, before he died tragically in November 2011, performed two of the reported studies together with colleagues.

A review on the extensive skin benefits of mineral oil

This review was initially prepared in 2011 before Professor Johann Wiechers tragically passed away. It has been updated and is being published in his memory. It discusses the importance of mineral oil and its benefits to skin. Its source, structure, properties and efficacy are discussed. Mineral oil has been shown to improve skin softness and barrier function better than some other emollients using the gas-bearing dynamometer and standard water vapour transmission testing as well as in vivo studies showing its effects on suppressing transepidermal water loss (TEWL). It has also been subjected to the rigour of the newer in vivo confocal microscopic measurements now used for testing the performance of moisturizers by following the swelling characteristics of the stratum corneum and been found favourable compared with many vegetable oils. Its introduction as a cosmetic oil was in the late 1800s, and still today, it is used as one of the main components of moisturizers, a true testament to its cost to efficacy window. Naturally, it has physical effects on the stratum corneum, but it is expected that these will translate into biological effects simply through its mechanism of hydrating and occluding the stratum corneum from which many benefits are derived.

Effect of cosmetic ingredients as anticellulite agents: synergistic action of actives with in vitro and in vivo efficacy

BACKGROUND

The pathophysiology of cellulite involves changes in the subcutaneous adipose layer and the extracellular matrix (ECM) that supports it together with overlying dermal layer. Cellular mechanisms governing cellulite are not fully understood. However, it is accepted that changes include enhanced lipogenesis, decreased lipolysis, and increased lipid storage within the adipocytes as well as changes in the dermal architecture.

AIM

In our studies the ability of cosmetic agents Furcellaria lumbricalis, Fucus vesiculosus, retinoid, conjugated linoleic acid (CLA), and a glaucine mixture to stimulate in vitro 1) lipolysis in human adipocytes and 2) production of pro-collagen I by fibroblasts was investigated in vitro. The ability of these ingredients to improve cellulite condition in vivo was also determined.

PATIENTS/METHODS

Mature adipocytes and 'aged' fibroblasts were used for in vitro studies. The assessment of cellulite in vivo was performed by dermatological grading and ultrasound measurements.

RESULTS

Mature adipocytes treated with combined actives resulted in a significant synergistic increase in free glycerol release. On "aged" fibroblasts, combined treatment of F. vesiculosus and F. lumbricalis stimulated pro-collagen I production. CLA increased pro-collagen I production, but the glaucine mixture had no effect. The clinical study demonstrated a significant improvement in cellulite grading by a dermatologist after 8 and 12 weeks vs. vehicle, and ultrasound imaging showed a significant decrease in fat thickness compared with placebo after 12 weeks.

CONCLUSIONS

Our studies revealed a potent cocktail of ingredients that when combined together can act in vitro to markedly improve lipolysis mechanisms and by way of stimulating pro-collagen I can also have an effect on the surrounding extracellular matrix. The in vitro actions of the ingredients were translated in vivo, where a clinical improvement of cellulite condition was observed.

Increased mass levels of certain serine proteases in the stratum corneum in acute eczematous atopic skin

Acute eczematous atopic dermatitis (AD) is associated with increases in stratum corneum (SC) serine protease activity. The purpose of this study was to examine whether the increased SC protease activities in acute eczematous atopic dermatitis were associated with increased mass levels of SC proteases. Six subjects with healthy skin and six patients with AD each with non-lesional skin or lesional acute eczematous skin had the mass levels of their extractable SC kallikreins (KLK), plasmin and urokinase quantified using Luminex multiplex bead-based assays from SC tape strippings. The mass levels of KLK5 and KLK14 together with urokinase were not elevated in the SC in atopic skin. However, the mass levels of KLK7 and KLK11 together with plasmin were greatly elevated compared with the extracts from the non-lesional and the healthy skin and correlated with the corresponding enzymatic activities.

Investigation of the molecular structure of the human stratum corneum ceramides [NP] and [EOS] by mass spectrometry

The aim of this study was to characterize the two ceramide (CER) subclasses CER[NP] and CER[EOS] of human stratum corneum and to identify the chemical structures of their subspecies. High-performance thin-layer chromatography and normal-phase high-performance liquid chromatography were used for the separation of CER fractions, whereas nanoelectrospray ionization tandem mass spectrometry was applied to investigate the chemical structures in detail. Thus, CER[EOS] fragmentation revealed that in addition to linoleic acid other esterified fatty acids occur in the ω-position. Of particular interest is the identification of a 17:2 fatty acid located in this part of the molecule. Several subspecies of CER[NP], including subspecies with odd numbers of carbon atoms in both chains, the non-α-hydroxylated fatty acid moiety (part N) and the phytosphingosine (part P), were identified. Furthermore, it was found that 12% of CER[NP] subspecies have an odd number of carbon atoms in both chains of the molecule. Similar results were obtained for CER[EOS]. Both the esterified fatty acid (part E) and the sphingosine base (part S) were found to contain odd-numbered chain lengths. These results underline the heterogeneity of the CER composition in the stratum corneum lipid bilayer.

Increased stratum corneum serine protease activity in acute eczematous atopic skin

BACKGROUND

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a chronic inflammatory disease associated with changes in stratum corneum (SC) structure and function. The breakdown of epidermal barrier function in AD is associated with changes in corneocyte size and maturation, desquamation, lipid profiles, and some protease activities.

OBJECTIVES

The purpose of this study was: (i) to examine physiological changes in lesional (L) skin of acute eczematous AD, compared with nonlesional (NL) AD skin and healthy (H) skin, using sequential tewametry and SC protein analysis to estimate SC thickness; and (ii) to assess which serine proteases might be involved in pathogenesis.

METHODS

Six subjects with H skin, six AD patients with NL skin and six AD patients with mild to moderate eczema (L skin) were enrolled. Skin was assessed using several noninvasive techniques but SC thickness was estimated using tewametry and SC protein content of D-Squame strippings. SC integrity was determined by sequential tape stripping (D-Squame) and infrared densitometry. Kallikreins, plasmin, urokinase and leucocyte elastase protease activities together with a novel SC tryptase-like enzyme activity were quantified.

RESULTS

Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) levels after D-Squame stripping were elevated in L compared with NL and H skin at all sampling points (P < 0.05). Conversely, the amount of SC removed by sequential tape stripping was decreased in L skin, indicating increased intracorneocyte cohesion (P < 0.05). By correlating 1/TEWL values and SC removed as an estimate of SC thickness, a significantly thinner SC was observed in L compared with NL and H skin (P < 0.05). Elevated extractable serine protease activity was measured in AD skin in the order: SC tryptase-like enzyme (45x), plasmin (30x), urokinase (7.1x), trypsin-like kallikreins (5.8x) and chymotrypsin-like kallikreins (3.9x). Leucocyte elastase activity was not detected in H and NL skin but was observed in AD SC samples (L skin). All enzymes were elevated in the deeper layers of L SC compared with NL and H SC samples. All consistently elevated SC protease activities were significantly correlated with the bioinstrumental data.

CONCLUSIONS

We report increased serine protease activities in acute eczematous AD, especially in deeper layers of the SC, including SC tryptase-like enzyme, plasmin, urokinase and leucocyte elastase activities. These elevations in protease activities were associated with impaired barrier function, irritation, and reduced skin capacitance. Increased SC cohesion was apparent despite elevated TEWL during tape stripping, which would indicate reduced SC thickness in acute eczematous lesions of AD. Indeed, this was observed using an estimate of SC thickness.