Menopause and facial skin microbiomes: a pilot study revealing novel insights into their relationship

Introduction: The human skin microbial composition is affected by age. Previous studies reported skin microbiome diversity shifts between elderly and significantly younger subjects. Some studies implied that menopausal status, which is inherently linked to age, could be associated with changes in skin microbial compositions. Nevertheless, the influence of menopausal status on skin microbiome profiles while minimizing the impact of aging-associated changes in skin parameters still needs further clarification. Methods: We performed an observational study on healthy Caucasian female volunteers, which were grouped according to their pre- or postmenopausal status. Bacterial community structures on facial skin were analyzed using 16S rRNA gene sequencing. Cutometer® measurements were performed to evaluate aging-associated changes in facial skin biophysical properties. Results: The relative abundance of the lipophilic Cutibacterium genus was decreased, and bacterial diversity was increased in skin samples of postmenopausal volunteers. The mean age difference between examined groups in this study was 12.4 years only. Accordingly, Cutometer® measurements revealed no differences in aging-associated skin biophysical parameters between pre- and postmenopausal groups. Consequently, no correlation was detected between Shannon diversity and measured age-dependent biomechanical properties of facial skin. Discussion: These findings are in line with previous studies, which investigated the wide-ranging impact of chronological aging on skin microbial communities. However, this work reports for the first time a direct association between menopausal status and facial microbiomes on skin of similarly aged study participants, and hence uncouples aging-associated skin biophysical parameters, such as viscoelastic properties, from the equation. These findings open avenues for the development of microbiome-targeting strategies for treatment of menopause-associated skin disorders.

Predictors of female age, health and attractiveness perception from skin feature analysis of digital portraits in five ethnic groups

OBJECTIVE

Research indicates the impact of skin colour, tone evenness and surface topography on ratings of age, health and attractiveness in women. In addition to subjective assessments, these effects have been quantified with objective measures derived from skin image analysis. Signs of skin ageing may manifest differently across ethnic groups. However, comparisons have been limited to research with two ethnic groups, preventing conclusions about an ethnicity-specific ranking of skin ageing signs.

METHODS

We report results from a multi-ethnic and multi-centre study in which faces of women (n = 180; aged 20-69 years) from five ethnic groups were imaged. Facial images were rated for age, health and attractiveness by members of the same ethnic group (each n = 120). Digital image analysis was used to quantify skin colour, gloss, tone evenness and wrinkling/sagging. We assessed associations between face ratings and skin image measurements in the total sample (i.e. all ethnic groups) and separately by ethnicity.

RESULTS

Skin image analysis revealed differences between ethnic groups, including skin colour, gloss, tone evenness, wrinkling and sagging. Differences in the relative predictive utility of individual skin features in accounting for ratings of age, health and attractiveness also were observed between ethnic groups. Facial wrinkling and sagging were the best predictors of face ratings in each ethnic group, with some differences in the type (or predictive magnitude) of skin features.

CONCLUSION

The current findings corroborate previous reports of differences between ethnic groups in female facial skin and indicate differential effects of skin features on ratings of age, health and attractiveness, within and between ethnic groups. Facial wrinkling and sagging were the best predictors of age and attractiveness ratings, and skin tone evenness and gloss had an additional role in ratings of health.

Saccharide isomerate ameliorates cosmetic scalp conditions in a Chinese study population

BACKGROUND

Scalp conditions such as flaky or oily scalp affect people across ethnicities and age groups. In addition to flaking, increased sebum secretion, itching, and compromised scalp barrier function were described. Scalp conditions are aesthetically disturbing and may cause psychological distress in affected individuals who are looking for mild and effective treatment at the same time. Saccharide isomerate has a long history as a skin moisturizer, and it was found to improve skin barrier function, also suggesting possible beneficial effects on scalp.

AIMS

To provide relevant claim substantiation to introduce saccharide isomerate as a new scalp care active against scalp flaking condition.

MATERIAL AND METHODS

We conducted a placebo-controlled clinical study in an adult Chinese population affected by dandruff scalp as assessed by an adherent scalp flaking score. We monitored transepidermal water loss (TEWL), sebum secretion, and scalp flaking during 28 days.

RESULTS

Formulations containing Saccharide isomerate significantly improved all parameters both over time as well as compared to the placebo formulation.

CONCLUSION

We propose Saccharide isomerate for cosmetic formulations directed toward improving scalp conditions such as dandruff or oily scalp.

An extract of Leontopodium alpinum inhibits catagen development ex vivo and increases hair density in vivo

Objectives

Hair loss and reduction in hair volume are hallmarks of hair disorders, such as telogen effluvium, or male or female pattern hair loss, and hair ageing, which can cause severe distress in both men and women. Common anti‐hair loss drugs carry some side effects; therefore, novel, safer approaches targeting milder phenotypes are highly advocated. In this context, we investigated an extract of the alpine plant Edelweiss, Leontopodium alpinum var. Helvetia, for its ability to modulate hair follicle (HF) growth ex vivo and inhibit hair loss while increasing hair regeneration in vivo.

Methods

Human amputated HFs were microdissected from three donors, two women and one man, and cultured ex vivo for 6 days. After treatment with 0.001% Edelweiss extract (EWDE), we investigated hair shaft production and anagen/catagen conversion, and measured known parameters associated with hair growth, that is hair matrix keratinocyte proliferation and apoptosis, dermal papilla inductivity, and growth factors, by quantitative (immuno)histomorphometry. To assess the anti‐hair loss potential of the alpine plant compound, we performed a randomized, placebo‐controlled human study enrolling Caucasian women and men, aged 18 to 65 years, with normal hair loss. After 5 months’ daily use of an extract containing leave‐on serum, we analysed hair density and anagen‐to‐catagen/telogen ratio by the Trichogram analysis.

Results

Our results revealed a significant prolongation in the anagen phase in HFs treated with 0.001% Edelweiss, as indicated by an increase in HFs remaining in anagen and a significant decrease in hair cycle score. In line with this effect, EWDE significantly stimulated hair matrix (HM) keratinocyte proliferation, and dermal papilla inductivity, as shown by a significant up‐regulation of versican expression and alkaline phosphatase activity, and a tendential increase in FGF7 immunoreactivity in the dermal papilla of all HFs or only anagen VI HFs. Corroborating the ex vivo results, we observed a significant increase in growing hair shaft numbers (hair density) after treatment with Edelweiss extract formulation, and a tendential up‐regulation in the anagen‐to‐catagen/telogen ratio.

Conclusions

We show here, through several lines of evidence, that the selected extract of the alpine plant Leontopodium alpinum var Helvetia (Edelweiss) inhibits premature catagen induction, possibly by stimulating dermal papilla inductivity. It is therefore worth exploiting this extract clinically as an anti‐hair loss agent, both for preventing ageing‐associated hair shedding and as an adjuvant therapy for hair loss disorders.

Pigmentation effects of blue light irradiation on skin and how to protect against them

Background

Visible light, in particular blue light, has been identified as an additional contributor to cutaneous photoageing. However, clinical studies demonstrating the clear effect of blue light on photoageing are still scarce, and so far, most studies have focused on broad‐spectrum visible light. Although there is evidence for increased skin pigmentation, the underlying mechanisms of photoageing in vivo are still unclear. Furthermore, there is still a need for active ingredients to significantly protect against blue light‐induced hyperpigmentation in vivo.

Our study had two aims: to detect visible changes in skin pigmentation following repeated irradiation of the skin with LED‐based blue light and to reduce pigmentation using suitable active ingredients.

Method

We conducted a randomized, double‐blind and placebo‐controlled clinical study on 33 female volunteers with skin phototypes III and IV. We used a repetitive blue light (4 × 60 J cm⁻², 450 nm) irradiation protocol on the volunteers’ inner forearms. Using hyperspectral imaging, we assessed chromophore status. In addition, we took chromameter measurements and photographs to assess visible hyperpigmentation.

Results

We measured significant changes in chromophore status (P < 0.001 vs baseline), that is of melanin, haemoglobin and oxygen saturation, immediately after blue light irradiation. In addition, we found visible skin colour changes which were expressed by a significant decrease in ITA° values (delta ITA° = −16.89, P < 0.001 vs baseline for the placebo group) and an increase in a* (delta a* = +3.37, P < 0.001 vs baseline for the placebo group) 24 h post‐irradiation. Hyperpigmentation and skin reddening were mitigated by both a formulation containing 3% of a microalgal product and a formulation containing 3% niacinamide.

Conclusion

Our study sets out an efficient and robust protocol for investigating both blue light‐induced cutaneous alterations, such as changes in skin chromophores, and signs of photoageing, such as hyperpigmentation. Moreover, we have shown evidence that both an extract of the microalga Scenedesmus rubescens and niacinamide (vitamin B3) have the potential to protect against blue light‐induced hyperpigmentation.

An image-based mapping of significance and relevance of facial skin colour changes of females living in Thailand

Objective

There are methods to evaluate skin colour on defined areas over the face but no approach automatically and accurately evaluates skin colour variations on large facial areas, comparing subjects, treatments and/or time points. We propose such an image‐based approach to visualize quickly the outcome of clinical studies on colour variations.

Methods

Among 54 Asian women, one group applied a vehicle twice daily, during 28 days, and the other group an anti‐ageing emulsion, taking facial images at baseline and after treatment. Changes in L*a*b* values were studied on four pre‐selected facial regions. We also reconstructed average facial images from which the L*a*b* parameters were extracted for every pixel, computing relevance (ΔE) and significance data. Using colour gradients, we mapped these results onto the average facial images.

Results

After treatment, L*a*b* parameters show no statistically relevant colour changes in the vehicle group. In the ‘active’ group, skin was lighter at the upper cheek and, overall, redness decreased. Relevance and significance maps confirmed no visible colour changes in the vehicle group. In the ‘active’ group, the mapping approach revealed colour changes and their location. Skin became lighter below the eye, cheek and forehead. It was less red below the eyes, on the cheek, jawline and forehead, and generally more yellow.

Conclusion

Our image‐based mapping approach proves to be powerful. It enables us to identify precise facial regions of relevant and statistically significant colour changes after a topical treatment, regions that would have otherwise been undetected.

Revealing the secret life of skin - with the microbiome you never walk alone

The human skin microbiome has recently become a focus for both the dermatological and cosmetic fields. Understanding the skin microbiota, that is the collection of vital microorganisms living on our skin, and how to maintain its delicate balance is an essential step to gain insight into the mechanisms responsible for healthy skin and its appearance. Imbalances in the skin microbiota composition (dysbiosis) are associated with several skin conditions, either pathological such as eczema, acne, allergies or dandruff or non‐pathological such as sensitive skin, irritated skin or dry skin. Therefore, the development of approaches which preserve or restore the natural, individual balance of the microbiota represents a novel target not only for dermatologists but also for skincare applications. This review gives an overview on the current knowledge on the skin microbiome, the currently available sampling and analysis techniques as well as a description of current approaches undertaken in the skincare segment to help restoring and balancing the structure and functionality of the skin microbiota.

Discovery of a Highly Selective MC1R Agonists Pentapeptide to Be Used as a Skin Pigmentation Enhancer and with Potential Anti-Aging Properties

One of the first lines of cutaneous defense against photoaging is (a) the synthesis of melanin and (b) the initiation of an oxidative stress response to protect skin against the harmful effects of solar radiation. Safe and selective means to stimulate epidermal pigmentation associated with oxidative stress defense are; however, scarce. Activation of the melanocortin-1 receptor (MC1R) on epidermal melanocytes represents a key step in cutaneous pigmentation initiation and, additionally, it regulates cellular defense mechanisms like oxidative stress and DNA-repair. Thus, making the activation of MC1R an attractive strategy for modulating skin pigmentation and oxidative stress. In this context, we designed and synthesized pentapeptides that act as MC1R agonists. These peptides bound, with high potency, to MC1R and activated cAMP synthesis in CHO cells expressing human MC1R. Using one lead pentapeptide, we could show that this activation of MC1R was specific as testing the activation of other G-protein coupled receptors, including the MC-receptor family, was negative. In vitro efficacy on mouse melanoma cells showed similar potency as for the synthetic MC1R agonist alpha-melanocyte stimulating hormone (NDP-alpha-MSH). Moreover, we could reproduce this activity in human skin tissue culture. The lead pentapeptide was able to induce ex-vivo protein expression of key melanogenesis markers melanocyte inducing transcription factor (MITF), tyrosinase (TYR), and tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TYRP-1). Concerning oxidative stress response, we found that the pentapeptide enhanced the activation of Nrf2 after UVA-irradiation. Our results make this pentapeptide an ideal candidate as a skin pigmentation enhancer that mimics alpha-MSH and may also have anti-photoaging effects on the skin.

Appearance of aging signs in differently pigmented facial skin by a novel imaging system

Background

Facial wrinkles, pores, and uneven skin tone are major beauty concerns. There is differential manifestation of aging signs in different ethnic groups. In this regard, studies on Black Africans from the African continent are scarce.

Objective

To investigate facial wrinkles, pores, and skin tone in Black African women from Mauritius Island and elucidate the differences to Caucasian women from France.

Methods

Facial images were taken using the imaging system ColorFace^®. Wrinkles and pores were measured by their length, depth, surface, volume, and number; for skin tone, we measured L*a*b* and calculated ITA, IWA_Newtone, and color homogeneity.

Results

We found good correlations of wrinkle and pore scores with expert ranking done on ColorFace^® images for Caucasians (Spearman's rho = 0.78 and 0.72) and Black Africans (Spearman's rho = 0.86 and 0.65). Caucasians showed more advanced facial signs of aging than Black Africans. Exceptions were vertical lines on upper lip and the depth of pores which were greatest for the Black African subjects. Black Africans had higher heterogeneity scores indicative for uneven skin tone. Luminance (L*) was significantly higher in Caucasians but a* and b* values were significantly higher in the Black African subjects. ITA and IWA_Newtone were significantly higher for Caucasians.

Conclusions

The high correlation between expert ranking and wrinkle and pore measurements prove ColorFace^® a valid imaging system to study skin aging. Our results show that Africans from the African continent show delayed signs of aging compared to Caucasians. Some exceptions suggest that ethnic differences in facial aging are a complex phenomenon.

Design, synthesis, and biological evaluation of novel selective peptide inhibitors of 11β-hydroxysteroid dehydrogenase 1

The enzyme 11β-HSD1 plays a crucial role in the tissue-specific regulation of cortisol levels and it has been associated with various diseases. Inhibition of 11β-HSD1 is an attractive intervention strategy and the discovery of novel selective 11β-HSD1 inhibitors is of high relevance. In this study, we identified and evaluated a new series of selective peptide 11β-HSD1 inhibitors with potential for skin care applications. This novel scaffold was designed with the aid of molecular modeling and two previously reported inhibitors. SAR optimization yielded highly active peptides (IC₅₀ below 400 nM) that were inactive at 1 µM concentration against structurally related enzymes (11β-HSD2, 17β-HSD1 and 17β-HSD2). The best performing peptides inhibited the conversion of cortisone into cortisol in primary human keratinocytes and the most active compound, 5d, was further shown to reverse cortisone-induced collagen damage in human ex-vivo tissue.

Protective effects of an extract of the freshwater microalga Scenedesmus rubescens on UV-irradiated skin cells

BACKGROUND

Skin ageing results from intrinsic but also extrinsic factors of which UV irradiation is a main cause. It is hence of interest to have means to protect skin from UV irradiation-induced damage. We selected an extract of the freshwater microalga Scenedesmus rubescens and assessed its potential to protect skin from photoageing caused by UV irradiation.

METHODS

Skin cells in vitro and ex vivo were analysed for markers of UV irradiation-induced photodamage such as decreased viability, decreased collagen content, hyperpigmentation and sunburn cells.

RESULTS

We found that a dry extract of the microalga Scenedesmus rubescens was able to suppress cellular signs of ageing induced by UV irradiation. It enhanced dermal fibroblast viability, rescued dermal collagen content, inhibited the formation of sunburn cells and inhibited tyrosinase activity.

CONCLUSION

An extract of Scenedesmus rubescens showed broad activity against markers of UV irradiation-induced cutaneous ageing. It may therefore be used as a preventive or regenerative agent for anti-ageing strategies.

The effects of benzylsulfonyl-D-Ser-homoPhe-(4-amidino-benzylamide), a dual plasmin and urokinase inhibitor, on facial skin barrier function in subjects with sensitive skin

OBJECTIVE

The aim of this study was to optimize the synthesis of the plasmin and urokinase (uPA) inhibitor benzylsulfonyl-D-Ser-homoPhe-(4-amidino-benzylamide) (BSFAB), to characterize its activity and mechanism of action and to assess its use to improve stratum corneum (SC) barrier function.

METHODS

Peptide coupling methods were used to synthesize BSFAB, and high-performance liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (HPLC-MS) together with ¹ H- and ¹³ C-nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopy (NMR) were applied to clarify its structure and determine its purity. Its binding mode was determined by docking studies to the catalytic domains of plasmin and uPA. Inhibition constants (K_i ) were determined by enzyme kinetic studies, and the effect of BSFAB on plasmin, uPA and transglutaminase 1 expression was evaluated in non-cytokine and cytokine-stimulated keratinocytes. A vehicle-controlled clinical study on SC barrier function was conducted on facial skin of subjects with self-perceived sensitive skin.

RESULTS

BSFAB was synthesized with high purity (97.3%). In silico studies indicated that the amidine moiety of BSFAB was anchored in the S1 pocket of both enzymes by binding to Asp189, Ser190 and Gly219, whereas the backbone of the D-Ser residue makes an anti-parallel β-sheet interaction with Gly216. BSFAB was shown to be an effective inhibitor of plasmin and uPA with K_i values of 29 and 25 nM, respectively. BSFAB also inhibited keratinocyte-secreted protease activities in basal (plasmin inhibition 37.7%, P < 0.05 and uPA inhibition 96.6%, P < 0.01) and cytokine-induced conditions (plasmin inhibition 41.1%, P < 0.05 and uPA inhibition 97.0%, P < 0.001) and stimulated the gene expression of transglutaminase 1 in cytokine-stimulated keratinocytes (approximately 4.5 times increased expression, P < 0.01). Clinically, BSFAB was shown to improve SC barrier integrity (P < 0.02 on day 29) and subjective improvements in the perception of healthy skin (P < 0.05 on day 28).

CONCLUSION

BSFAB binds as a reversible competitive inhibitor to the active sites of plasmin and uPA. Additionally, BSFAB positively improved keratinocyte differentiation gene expression (transglutaminase 1). These effects were translated into improvements in SC barrier integrity clinically in subjects with dry and sensitive skin and improved their perception of having a healthy skin condition.

Neurosurgery at the University of Lausanne

The University of Lausanne was founded in 1537. The faculty of medicine was created in 1890, and the service of surgery was directed by César Roux. Roux, a well-known surgeon, was visited by Harvey Cushing during 1900-1901. In the early 1930s, Jean Rossier from Lausanne trained with Cushing, but Rossier passed away in 1942. Eric Zander created the division of neurosurgery in 1959; it became an independent service in 1967. Nicolas de Tribolet served as chairman from 1984 until 1994, when he was asked to take charge of the merger of the university services of Geneva and Lausanne. In October 1997, Jean-Guy Villemure joined him in the newly merged department, becoming chairman in Lausanne, while de Tribolet is chairman in Geneva and head of the department comprising both services.

Long-term results after ventriculo-atrial shunting in children

A consecutive series of 120 patients with infantile hydrocephalus who were submitted to ventriculo-atrial shunting was studied. The average follow-up was 11 years. There was no operative mortality; 7 patients died during the follow-up period, but only in 1 case was the cause of death a consequence of the shunt procedure. The incidence rates of infection and slit ventricle syndrome were 4.2% and 1.8%, respectively. Shunt revision was performed on 253 occasions yielding a revision rate of 2.2 per patient. Of these 253 revisions 167 (66%) took the form of elective lengthening of the atrial catheter. The number of reoperations to adjust the length of the atrial catheter or to revise the distal end of the shunting system is a major disadvantage, which actually favors ventriculo-peritoneal shunting as the primary procedure for the treatment of pediatric hydrocephalus.

Long-term results after ventriculoatrial shunting in children

A consecutive series of 120 patients with infantile hydrocephalus who were subjected to ventriculoatrial shunting was studied. The average length of follow-up was 11 years. Operative mortality was zero. Seven patients died during the follow-up period; in all cases but one of these the cause of death was not a consequence of a shunt-related procedure. The incidences of infection and slit ventricle syndrome were 4.2% and 1.8% respectively. Two hundred and fifty-three shunt revisions were performed, yielding a revision rate of 2.2 per patient. Of these 253 revisions 167 (66%) were elective lengthening of the atrial catheter. The number of reoperations for adjusting the length of the atrial catheter of for revision of the distal end of the shunting system is a major disadvantage of ventriculoatrial shunting which actually speaks in favor of ventriculoperitoneal shunting as the primary procedure for the treatment of pediatric hydrocephalus.

[Diagnosis, treatment and course of hypophyseal tumors. Retrospective study of 123 cases]

To assess the diagnostic and therapeutic problems associated with pituitary tumors, the clinical records of 123 consecutive patients presenting with radiological changes consistent with pituitary tumors were analyzed retrospectively. This diagnosis was established in 109 cases while the remaining 14 had other intrasellar pathologies. Prolactinoma in women was diagnosed at a significantly younger age (34.3 years) than in men (54.2 years) or than non-secreting adenoma in both sexes (52.1 years). In the two latter instances there was, on diagnosis, a larger proportion of visual field impairment due to tumor impingement on the visual pathway. Acromegaly was also recognized late, when skeletal changes were marked. The presence of certain symptoms could have suggested the diagnosis of pituitary tumor earlier in most cases. Surgical treatment was somewhat less effective in correcting hormone hypersecretion than in other series but, on the other hand, it caused less pituitary insufficiency and, thus, less additional discomfort to the patients. Hypopituitarism was frequent after transcranial surgery and radiotherapy (more than 50%) but was very rare after transsphenoidal tumorectomy. It appears that earlier diagnosis would result in less frequent visual impairment and hypopituitarism secondary to tumor extension and the necessary treatment.

Redundant nerve roots of the cauda equina. A rare disease?

6 cases of so-called redundant nerve roots of the cauda equina are reported, which brings the total number of cases described in literature to 27. The differential diagnosis of the myelographic picture of tortuous filling defects is discussed. The authors believe that the majority of these cases is caused by chronic compression of the nerve roots.

Cerebral coenurosis. Report of a case with arteritis

A case of the unusual clinical condition of cerebral coenurosis, the unique parasitic disease that is localized only in the CNS, is reported. The patient had repeated attacks of transient hemiparesis due to intracranial arteritis which was demonstrated by several angiographic studies. The CSF showed a discreet lymphocytosis and increased immunoglobulins. This inflammatory reaction which preceeded the manifestations of the intracranial mass can be explained by the parasitic foreign bodies, the liberation of somatic and metabolic parasitic toxins and the immunological reaction of the organism. The arteritis of the basal intracranial vessels was probably secondary to the inflammatory reaction of the leptomeninges. In presence of the rare association of meningovascular disease and an expanding intracranial lesion a parasitic condition due to a larval stage of Cestodes (Hydatidosis, Cysticercosis, Coenurosis) should be always considered.