Comparative evaluation of different substrates for the in vitro determination of sunscreen photostability: spectrophotometric and HPLC analyses

Fluorescent films based on PVDF doped with carbon dots for evaluation of UVA protection of sunscreens and fabrication of cool white LEDs

The ultraviolet-A (UVA) radiation from sunlight that reaches the earth's surface can induce premature aging, immunosuppression, and skin cancer. Commercial sunscreen products offer limited information regarding protection against UVA light. Therefore, proposing new and practical alternatives to evaluate the UVA protection capacity of commercial sunscreens is highly imperative. This work presents a novel methodology for evaluating the quality of sunscreens using polyvinylidene fluoride (PVDF) based films doped with plant derived photoluminescent carbon dots (CDs). The bluish white light emitting (under UVA exposure) PVDF/CD films were used to evaluate the UVA protection capacity of 8 different commercial sunscreens. The evaluation of UVA protection is based on the fluorescence attenuation observed with the films coated with sunscreens. In addition, visual evaluation of the UVA protection capacity of the sunscreens and commercial glasses, using the same films and a commercial UV lamp at 365 nm, has also been demonstrated. Two sunscreens with limited UVA protection were identified using the proposed simple evaluation mechanisms without conventionally used expensive instruments and complex methodologies. Additionally, the capacity of PVDF/CD material has been explored for the possible fabrication of WLEDs with cool light emission.

3,4-dimethoxychalcone novel ultraviolet-A-protection factor in conventional sunscreen cream

UltravioletA (UVA) rays with an intensity of 95% can induce skin cancer due to the activation of reactive oxygen species (ROS). The 3,4-dimethoxychalcone (3,4-DMC) chalcone derivative has a wide wavelength, antioxidant activity, presumed has activity as sunscreen (UVA rays). Topical delivery of water-insoluble 3,4-DMC with log P 3.84 required capable, cream formulation was chosen because it was suitable for application this chemical sunscreen. This study aims to obtain the optimal formulation of 3,4-DMC in a sunscreen cream dosage form as a UVA-protection factor (UVA-PF). This study involves experimental design. The cream 3,4-DMC was evaluated physically for 4 weeks by measuring pH, viscosity, spreadability, adhesion, centrifugation, freeze–thaw, photostability, UVA-PF used TranporeTM tape, and skin irritation test on animals. The result obtained was evaluated statistically using ANOVA (SPSS version 24). The ratio UVA/UVB value of 3,4 DMC sunscreen cream having 5 stars (*****) for all concentrations, shows the product in this study can be used as an anti-UVA agent in sunscreen cream cosmetic products. The stability of the cream has pH 4.0–4.2; spreadability 5–6 cm; viscosity 4.470–5.763; and adhesion <1 s. Freeze-thaw and centrifugation were known did not affect the stability due to the absence of separation. There was no wavelength shift in the photostability test and no skin irritation due to in vivo examination using New Zealand rabbits. The 3,4-DMC as a new agent in conventional sunscreen cream dosage form has good properties as a protection against UVA rays.

Effect of grape seed extract on skin fibroblasts exposed to UVA light and its photostability in sunscreen formulation

BACKGROUND

Grape seed extract (GSE) is rich in polyphenolic compounds, particularly (+)-catechin (C) and (-)-epicatechin (EC). Strong antioxidant activity of these compounds makes GSE to be value-added to the cosmetics with anti-aging properties. However, a lack of stability in different environmental conditions makes GSE challenging for the development of photostable cosmetic sunscreen products.

AIMS

To evaluate photoprotective effects of GSE on human dermal fibroblasts irradiated with UVA light and assess photostability of catechins in cream formulations containing GSE alone or in combination with octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC).

METHODS

MTT assay was used to assess protective effects of GSE on fibroblasts irradiated with UVA light. A photostability of C and EC in GSE and in cream formulation containing GSE was investigated using high-performance liquid chromatography and confirmed by reflection and transmission spectrophotometry using Transpore™ tapes and polymethacrylate (PMMA) plates as substrates.

RESULTS

High UVA doses damaged fibroblast structure and inhibited their growth. However, GSE increased cell viability and effectively protected them from UVA damage. Photostability of C and EC was achieved by combination of GSE and OMC that also improved absorption capacity of UV filter and increased overall efficacy of formulation. PMMA plates showed better applicability for in vitro photostability testing of sunscreen formulations. However, despite the instability of Transpore® tape under heat from UV exposure, it can still be economically a substrate of alternative choice for screening.

CONCLUSIONS

GSE can be used as an effective and sustainable natural resource for prevention of UV-induced skin damage providing long-term protection against premature skin aging.

Pressurized liquid extraction-gas chromatography-mass spectrometry for confirming the photo-induced generation of dioxin-like derivatives and other cosmetic preservative photoproducts on artificial skin

The stability and photochemical transformations of cosmetic preservatives in topical applications exposed to UV-light is a serious but poorly understood problem. In this study, a high throughput extraction and selective method based on pressurized liquid extraction (PLE) coupled to gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) was validated and applied to investigate the photochemical transformation of the antioxidant butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT), as well as the antimicrobials triclosan (TCS) and phenyl benzoate (PhBz) in an artificial skin model. Two sets of photodegradation experiments were performed: (i) UV-Irradiation (8W, 254nm) of artificial skin directly spiked with the target preservatives, and (ii) UV-irradiation of artificial skin after the application of a cosmetic cream fortified with the target compounds. After irradiation, PLE was used to isolate the target preservatives and their transformation products. The follow-up of the photodegradation kinetics of the parent preservatives, the identification of the arising by-products, and the monitorization of their kinetic profiles was performed by GC-MS. The photochemical transformation of triclosan into 2,8-dichloro-dibenzo-p-dioxin (2,8-DCDD) and other dioxin-like photoproducts has been confirmed in this work. Furthermore, seven BHT photoproducts, and three benzophenones as PhBz by-products, have been also identified. These findings reveal the first evidences of cosmetic ingredients phototransformation into unwanted photoproducts on an artificial skin model.

A new hair follicle-derived human epidermal model for the evaluation of sunscreen genoprotection

Induction of skin cancer is the most deleterious effect of excessive exposure to sunlight. Accurate evaluation of sunscreens to protect the genome is thus of major importance. In particular, the ability of suncare products to prevent the formation of DNA damage should be evaluated more directly since the Sun Protection Factor is only related to erythema induction. For this purpose, we developed an in vitro approach using a recently characterized reconstituted human epidermis (RHE) model engineered from hair follicle. The relevance of this skin substitute in terms of UV-induced genotoxicity was compared to ex vivo explants exposed to solar-simulated radiation (SSR). The yield of bipyrimidine photoproducts, their rate of repair, and the induction of apoptosis were very similar in both types of skin samples. In order to evaluate the protection afforded by sunscreen against DNA damage, bipyrimidine photoproducts were quantified in tissue models following SSR exposure in the presence or absence of a SPF50+ formula. A rather high DNA protection factor of approximately 20 was found in RHE, very similar to that determined for explants. Thus, RHE is a good surrogate to human skin, and also a convenient and useful tool for investigation of the genoprotection of sunscreens.

Multifunction hexagonal liquid-crystal containing modified surface TiO2 nanoparticles and terpinen-4-ol for controlled release

Multifunctional products have been developed to combine the benefits of functional components and terpinen-4-ol (TP) delivery systems. In this way, p-toluene sulfonic acid modified titanium dioxide (TiO2) nanoparticles and TP, an antioxidant, have been incorporated in liquid-crystalline formulations for photoprotection and controlled release of the TP, respectively. By X-ray powder diffraction and diffuse reflectance spectroscopy, we noted that using p-toluene sulfonic acid as a surface modifier made it possible to obtain smaller and more transparent TiO2 nanoparticles than those commercially available. The liquid-crystalline formulation containing the inorganic ultraviolet filter was classified as broad-spectrum performance by the absorbance spectroscopy measurements. The formulations containing modified TiO2 nanoparticles and TP were determined to be in the hexagonal phase by polarized light microscopy and small-angle X-ray scattering, which makes possible the controlled released of TP following zero-order kinetics. The developed formulations can control the release of TP. Constant concentrations of the substance have been released per time unit, and the modified TiO2 nanoparticles can act as a transparent inorganic sunscreen.

Development of a new in vitro method to evaluate the photoprotective sunscreen activity of plant extracts against high UV-B radiation

Sunscreen efficiency of biomolecules against UV-B radiation was generally determined in vitro by cosmetic methods which are not well-adapted for routine ecophysiological and bio-guidance studies in plant research laboratories. In this article, we propose a new in vitro method to evaluate the sunscreen photoprotective activity of plant extracts against high UV-B radiation. Because photosynthetic pigments are one of the first targets of UV-B radiation in plants, the experimental design is based on the ability of the tested substances to limit the degradation of sodium magnesium chlorophyllin (SMC), a derivative compound of natural chlorophyll. SMC photodegradation comparatively to natural chlorophyll and related to temperature, concentration and sample solvent were analyzed in order to optimize the experimental parameters. Then, the method was validated by testing nine standard UV filters used in the European cosmetic industry and by comparing results of their activity with those of a reference in vitro procedure. Finally, the method was applied to coastal and marine crude plant extracts. Results have shown that our procedure can be a good alternative to cosmetic methods with a rapid, sensitive and reproducible evaluation of the sunscreen activity of either pure standards or crude plant extracts in small amounts (30 mg).