Superior effect of isostearyl isostearate on improvement in stratum corneum water permeability barrier function as examined by the plastic occlusion stress test

Clinical and in vitro evaluation of new anti-redness cosmetic products in subjects with winter xerosis and sensitive skin

Objective

To demonstrate the in vitro activities of panthenol, palmitoylethanolamide (PEA), and niacinamide (NAM) and determine the biophysical properties, clinical safety, tolerability together with efficacy of two developmental anti‐redness (AR) formulations containing these ingredients, in alleviating facial redness associated with winter xerosis in healthy volunteers with sensitive skin.

Methods

The anti‐inflammatory and skin protective properties of panthenol, PEA and NAM were evaluated in vitro. The physical properties of the AR formulations were analysed using measurement of water vapour transport rate (WVTR) and infrared spectroscopy. Clinical studies were performed between the months of December and April (2014–2015) with efficacy assessed during the winter. Facial redness, irritation, sensitization potential, photo‐irritation, and photo‐sensitization were evaluated. Self‐assessed adverse reactions were reported in diaries of use.

Results

Panthenol and PEA reduced prostaglandin E₂, interleukin‐6, and thymic stromal lymphopoietin levels in vitro, while NAM induced nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD) levels and the keratinocyte differentiation markers: filaggrin (2‐fold increase, P < 0.001), loricrin (2‐fold increase, P < 0.05), involucrin (2 fold increase, P < 0.001) & peroxisomal proliferator activated receptor‐alpha (1.5 fold increase, P < 0.05). The two AR products exhibited low WVTR vs. no treatment (P < 0.001) and displayed an ordered lipid structure. The day cream formulation protected against ultraviolet B radiation in vitro. A total of 382 participants were included in clinical studies which showed the AR formulations significantly improved facial redness associated with winter xerosis (Day 29 mean change from baseline: AR day cream 0.77 (P < 0.001); AR serum 0.67 (P < 0.001)). No irritation, sensitization, photo‐irritation, photo‐sensitization or product‐related adverse reactions were observed or reported in the clinical studies.

Conclusion

The new products significantly improved skin redness associated with winter xerosis in participants with self‐perceived sensitive skin. Both products were well tolerated with a suitable safety profile for topical use in subjects with sensitive skin.

Examining Tail and Headgroup Effects on Binary and Ternary Gel-Phase Lipid Bilayer Structure

The structural properties of two- and three-component gel-phase bilayers were studied using molecular dynamics simulations. The bilayers contain distearoylphosphatidylcholine (DSPC) phospholipids mixed with alcohols and/or fatty acids of varying tail lengths, with carbon chain lengths of 12, 16, and 24 studied. Changes in both headgroup chemistry and tail length are found to affect the balance between steric repulsion and van der Waals attraction within the bilayers, manifesting in different bilayer structural properties. Lipid components are found to be located at different depths within the bilayer depending on both chain length and headgroup chemistry. The highest bilayer ordering and lowest area per tail are found in systems with medium-length tails. While longer tails can enhance van der Waals attractions, the increased tail-length asymmetry is found to induce disorder and reduce tail packing. Bulkier headgroups further increase steric repulsion, as reflected in increased component offsets and reduced tail packing. These findings help explain how bilayer composition affects the structure of gel-phase bilayers.

Low-energy nanoemulsions as carriers for red raspberry seed oil: Formulation approach based on Raman spectroscopy and textural analysis, physicochemical properties, stability and in vitro antioxidant/ biological activity

Considering a growing demand for medicinal/cosmetic products with natural actives, this study focuses on the low-energy nanoemulsions (LE-NEs) prepared via the Phase inversion composition (PIC) method at room temperature as potential carriers for natural oil. Four different red raspberry seed oils (ROs) were tested, as follows: cold-pressed vs. CO2-extracted, organic vs. non-organic, refined vs. unrefined. The oil phase was optimized with Tocopheryl acetate and Isostearyl isostearate, while water phase was adjusted with either glycerol or an antioxidant hydro-glycolic extract. This study has used a combined approach to formulation development, employing both conventional methods (pseudo-ternary phase diagram - PTPD, electrical conductivity, particle size measurements, microscopical analysis, and rheological measurements) and the methods novel to this area, such as textural analysis and Raman spectroscopy. Raman spectroscopy has detected fine differences in chemical composition among ROs, and it detected the interactions within nanoemulsions. It was shown that the cold-pressed, unrefined, organic grade oil (RO2) with 6.62% saturated fatty acids and 92.25% unsaturated fatty acids, was optimal for the LE-NEs. Textural analysis confirmed the existence of cubic gel-like phase as a crucial step in the formation of stable RO2-loaded LE-NEs, with droplets in the narrow nano-range (125 to 135 nm; PDI ≤ 0.1). The DPPH test in methanol and ABTS in aqueous medium have revealed a synergistic free radical scavenging effect between lipophilic and hydrophilic antioxidants in LE-NEs. The nanoemulsion carrier has improved the biological effect of raw materials on HeLa cervical adenocarcinoma cells, while exhibiting good safety profile, as confirmed on MRC-5 normal human lung fibroblasts. Overall, this study has shown that low-energy nanoemulsions present very promising carriers for topical delivery of natural bioactives. Raman spectroscopy and textural analysis have proven to be a useful addition to the arsenal of methods used in the formulation and characterization of nanoemulsion systems.

Topical Delivery of 3-O-ethyl l-ascorbic Acid from Complex Solvent Systems

3-O-ethyl l-ascorbic acid (EA), an ether derivative of Vitamin C, is widely used in skincare formulations. Previously, we reported the effects of neat solvents on EA percutaneous absorption and observed that 0.6–7.5% of the applied EA was delivered through the skin over 24 h. In this work, we designed complex formulations using combinations of solvents that may act synergistically and examined their impact on EA permeation in porcine skin in vitro under finite dose conditions. Binary combinations of propylene glycol (PG) with propylene glycol monolaurate (PGML) were effective in enhancing skin permeation of EA compared with individual solvents (p < 0.05). Combining PGML with 1,2-hexanediol (HEX) did not result in significantly higher EA permeation compared with the neat solvents (p > 0.05). Addition of the volatile solvent isopropyl alcohol (IPA) to PG solutions also did not improve EA skin delivery compared with neat PG. Ternary solvent systems containing PG:PGML were subsequently prepared by the addition of a lipophilic solvent, either isopropyl myristate (IPM), medium-chain triglycerides (MCT) or isostearyl isostearate (ISIS). The optimum vehicle, PG:PGML:IPM, promoted up to 70.9% skin delivery of EA. The PG:PGML:ISIS vehicles also promoted EA permeation across the skin, but to a significantly lesser extent than the IPM-containing vehicles. No enhancement of EA delivery was noted for the PG:PGML:MCT mixtures. These results will inform the development of targeted formulations for EA in the future.

Composition Dependence of Water Permeation Across Multicomponent Gel-Phase Bilayers

The permeability of multicomponent phospholipid bilayers in the gel phase is investigated via molecular dynamics simulation. The physical role of the different molecules is probed by comparing multiple mixed-component bilayers containing distearylphosphatidylcholine (DSPC) with varying amounts of either the emollient isostearyl isostearate or long-chain alcohol (dodecanol, octadecanol, or tetracosanol) molecules. Permeability is found to depend on both the tail packing density and hydrogen bonding between lipid headgroups and water. Whereas the addition of emollient or alcohol molecules to a gel-phase DSPC bilayer can increase the tail packing density, it also disturbed the hydrogen-bonding network, which in turn can increase interfacial water dynamics. These phenomena have opposing effects on bilayer permeability, which is found to depend on the balance between enhanced tail packing and decreased hydrogen bonding.

Fractionated aliphatic alcohols as synthetic precursors of ultra long-chain monoacylglycerols for cosmetic applications

BACKGROUND

Xerosis is an abnormally dry and flaky skin condition that is associated with a change in the packing behaviour of the lipid matrix in the stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of the skin. This skin condition can lead to an increase in transepidermal water loss (TEWL). As ultralong-chain fatty acids have a positive effect on maintaining the packing behaviour of the SC lipid matrix, a moisturizer which contains glycerides of ultralong-chain fatty acids could act as a semi-occlusive layer on the surface of the skin. This will lower the rate of water evaporation through the epidermis and consequently help prevent or improve skin xerosis.

OBJECTIVE

To identify a novel source of ultralong-chain lipids and develop monoacylglycerols with mixed fatty acyl chain lengths that have occlusive properties superior to petrolatum.

METHODS

Initially, Performacol 425, a mixture of very long-chain fatty alcohols, was fractionated using short path distillation to yield a fraction enriched with C22:0-C26:0 fatty alcohols. The fatty alcohol fraction was then oxidized using Jones reagent, and the resulting fatty acids were esterified with glycerol to yield the corresponding monoglycerides using Novozym 435. These were then evaluated using Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, differential scanning calorimetry and water vapour transmission rate measurements.

RESULTS

The monoacylglycerols enriched with C22:0-C26:0 displayed a melting point of 80°C and orthorhombic packing; packing behaviour mainly present in healthy SC. In addition, a phospholipid-structured emulsion containing 3% of the monoglycerides displayed occlusive properties superior to the vehicle containing 3% petrolatum jelly.

CONCLUSIONS

Performacol 425 can be a potential source of fatty alcohols to synthesize monoacylglycerols that can improve the occlusive behaviour of phospholipid-structured emulsions.

Investigating the Structure of Multicomponent Gel-Phase Lipid Bilayers

Single- and multicomponent lipid bilayers of 1,2-dipalmitoyl-sn-glycero-3-phosphatidylcholine (DPPC), 1,2-distearoyl-sn-glycero-3-phosphatidylcholine (DSPC), isostearyl isostearate, and heptadecanoyl heptadecanoate in the gel phase are studied via molecular dynamics simulations. It is shown that the structural properties of multicomponent bilayers can deviate strongly from the structures of their single-component counterparts. Specifically, the lipid mixtures are shown to adopt a compact packing by offsetting the positioning depths at which different lipid species are located in the bilayer. This packing mechanism affects the area per lipid, the bilayer height, and the chain tilt angles and has important consequences for other bilayer properties, such as interfacial hydrogen bonding and bilayer permeability. In particular, the simulations suggest that bilayers containing isostearyl isostearate or heptadecanoyl heptadecanoate are less permeable than pure 1,2-dipalmitoyl-sn-glycero-3-phosphatidylcholine or DSPC bilayers. Furthermore, hydrogen-bond analysis shows that the residence times of lipid-water hydrogen bonds depend strongly on the bilayer composition, with longer residence times for bilayers that have a higher DSPC content. The findings illustrate and explain the fundamental differences between the properties of single- and multicomponent bilayers.

Safety Assessment of Alkyl Esters as Used in Cosmetics

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel (Panel) assessed the safety of 237 alkyl esters for use in cosmetics. The alkyl esters included in this assessment have a variety of reported functions in cosmetics, with skin-conditioning agent being the most common function. The Panel reviewed available animal and clinical data in making its determination of safety on these ingredients, and where there were data gaps, similarity in structure, properties, functions, and uses of these ingredients allowed for extrapolation of the available toxicological data to assess the safety of the entire group. The Panel concluded that these ingredients are safe in cosmetic formulations in the present practices of use and concentration when formulated to be nonirritating.

Petrolatum: Barrier repair and antimicrobial responses underlying this "inert" moisturizer

BACKGROUND

Petrolatum is a common moisturizer often used in the prevention of skin infections after ambulatory surgeries and as a maintenance therapy of atopic dermatitis (AD). However, the molecular responses induced by petrolatum in the skin have never been assessed.

OBJECTIVE

We sought to define the cutaneous molecular and structural effects induced by petrolatum.

METHODS

Thirty-six healthy subjects and 13 patients with moderate AD (mean SCORAD score, 39) were studied by using RT-PCR, gene arrays, immunohistochemistry, and immunofluorescence performed on control skin, petrolatum-occluded skin, and skin occluded with a Finn chamber only.

RESULTS

Significant upregulations of antimicrobial peptides (S100A8/fold change [FCH], 13.04; S100A9/FCH, 11.28; CCL20/FCH, 8.36; PI3 [elafin]/FCH, 15.40; lipocalin 2/FCH, 6.94, human β-defensin 2 [DEFB4A]/FCH, 4.96; P < .001 for all) and innate immune genes (IL6, IL8, and IL1B; P < .01) were observed in petrolatum-occluded skin compared with expression in both control and occluded-only skin. Application of petrolatum also induced expression of key barrier differentiation markers (filaggrin and loricrin), increased stratum corneum thickness, and significantly reduced T-cell infiltrates in the setting of "normal-appearing" or nonlesional AD skin, which is known to harbor barrier and immune defects.

CONCLUSIONS

Petrolatum robustly modulates antimicrobials and epidermal differentiation barrier measures. These data shed light on the beneficial molecular responses of petrolatum in barrier-defective states, such as AD and postoperative wound care.

Emollients are more than sensory ingredients: the case of isostearyl isostearate

In order to understand the skin benefits of emollient oil ingredients in topical skin moisturizers, one single highly popular in vivo method (corneometry), even when executed to perfection, does not suffice. A systematical exploration using a combination of bioengineering techniques shows how a previously unaccounted for mechanism of moisturization by internal occlusion was discovered. As a result, Isostearyl Isostearate turns out to be a highly functional moisturizer when several methodologies are used.

Transdermal delivery of imipramine and doxepin from newly oil-in-water nanoemulsions for an analgesic and anti-allodynic activity: development, characterization and in vivo evaluation

Antidepressants have been considered by their analgesic activity in numerous studies, and specifically tricyclic antidepressants to possess the greatest efficacy. Imipramine and doxepin have been reported to exhibit local anaesthetic properties. In order to investigate their cutaneous analgesic effect after topical application a nanoemulsion vehicle was developed. This nanoemulsion is composed of propilenglicol, Transcutol, water, Labrasol, Plurol Oleique, isostearyl isostearate, oleic acid, and d-limonene. The final concentration of imipramine or doxepin in the nanoemulsion system was 3% (w/w). The nanoemulsions were characterized by pH, viscosity, droplet size, polydispersity index and finally, a morphological and structural examination was carried out by using transmission electron microscopy. Furthermore, the present work also reports stability studies on the nanoemulsion formulations to evaluate the integrity of the formulation; these indicate that formulations are stable for a period of three months. Moreover ex vivo studies were performed to evaluate permeation behaviour through human skin and predict plasma concentrations concluding that topically applied imipramine and doxepin loaded nanoemulsions were safe for a local effect. Similarly, the in vivo analgesic and anti-allodynic activity in rats was evaluated being stronger for the doxepin loaded nanoemulsion. This study demonstrated that nanoemulsion containing doxepin could be promising as an alternative analgesic therapy with a potential clinical application.

Increased mass levels of certain serine proteases in the stratum corneum in acute eczematous atopic skin

Acute eczematous atopic dermatitis (AD) is associated with increases in stratum corneum (SC) serine protease activity. The purpose of this study was to examine whether the increased SC protease activities in acute eczematous atopic dermatitis were associated with increased mass levels of SC proteases. Six subjects with healthy skin and six patients with AD each with non-lesional skin or lesional acute eczematous skin had the mass levels of their extractable SC kallikreins (KLK), plasmin and urokinase quantified using Luminex multiplex bead-based assays from SC tape strippings. The mass levels of KLK5 and KLK14 together with urokinase were not elevated in the SC in atopic skin. However, the mass levels of KLK7 and KLK11 together with plasmin were greatly elevated compared with the extracts from the non-lesional and the healthy skin and correlated with the corresponding enzymatic activities.