Surface rejuvenating effect of Achillea millefolium extract

Krill oil: nutraceutical potential in skin health and disease

Krill oil (KO), extracted from the Antarctic marine crustacean Euphausia superba, is a nutrient-dense substance that includes rich profiles of n-3 polyunsaturated fatty acids (n-3 PUFAs), phospholipids (PLs), astaxanthin (ASX), as well as vitamins A and E, minerals, and flavonoids. As a high-quality lipid resource, KO has been widely used as a dietary supplement for its health-protective properties in recent years. KO has various benefits, including antioxidative, anti-inflammatory, metabolic regulatory, neuroprotective, and gut microbiome modulatory effects. Especially, the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects make KO have potential in skin care applications. With increasing demands for natural skin anti-aging solutions, KO has emerged as a valuable nutraceutical in dermatology, showing potential for mitigating the effects of skin aging and enhancing overall skin health and vitality. This review provides an overview of existing studies on the beneficial impact of KO on the skin, exploring its functional roles and underlying mechanisms through which it contributes to dermatological health and disease management.

Plant Extracts as Skin Care and Therapeutic Agents

Natural ingredients have been used for centuries for skin treatment and care. Interest in the health effects of plants has recently increased due to their safety and applicability in the formulation of pharmaceuticals and cosmetics. Long-known plant materials as well as newly discovered ones are increasingly being used in natural products of plant origin. This review highlights the beneficial effects of plants and plant constituents on the skin, including moisturizing (e.g., Cannabis sativa, Hydrangea serrata, Pradosia mutisii and Carthamus tinctorius), anti-aging (e.g., Aegopodium podagraria, Euphorbia characias, Premna odorata and Warburgia salutaris), antimicrobial (e.g., Betula pendula and Epilobium angustifolium), antioxidant (e.g., Kadsura coccinea, Rosmarinus officinalis, Rubus idaeus and Spatholobus suberectus), anti-inflammatory (e.g., Antidesma thwaitesianum, Helianthus annuus, Oenanthe javanica, Penthorum chinense, Ranunculus bulumei and Zanthoxylum bungeanum), regenerative (e.g., Aloe vera, Angelica polymorpha, Digitaria ciliaris, Glycyrrihza glabra and Marantodes pumilum), wound healing (e.g., Agrimonia eupatoria, Astragalus floccosus, Bursera morelensis, Jatropha neopauciflora and Sapindus mukorossi), photoprotective (e.g., Astragalus gombiformis, Calea fruticose, Euphorbia characias and Posoqueria latifolia) and anti-tyrosinase activity (e.g., Aerva lanata, Bruguiera gymnorhiza, Dodonaea viscosa, Lonicera japonica and Schisandra chinensis), as well as their role as excipients in cosmetics (coloring (e.g., Beta vulgaris, Centaurea cyanus, Hibiscus sabdariffa and Rubia tinctiorum), protective and aromatic agents (e.g., Hyssopus officinalis, Melaleuca alternifolia, Pelargonium graveolens and Verbena officinalis)).

The Therapeutic Wound Healing Bioactivities of Various Medicinal Plants

The skin serves as the body's first line of defense, guarding against mechanical, chemical, and thermal damage to the interior organs. It includes a highly developed immune response that serves as a barrier against pathogenic infections. Wound healing is a dynamic process underpinned by numerous cellular activities, including homeostasis, inflammation, proliferation, and remodeling, that require proper harmonious integration to effectively repair the damaged tissue. Following cutaneous damage, microorganisms can quickly enter the tissues beneath the skin, which can result in chronic wounds and fatal infections. Natural phytomedicines that possess considerable pharmacological properties have been widely and effectively employed forwound treatment and infection prevention. Since ancient times, phytotherapy has been able to efficiently treat cutaneous wounds, reduce the onset of infections, and minimize the usage of antibiotics that cause critical antibiotic resistance. There are a remarkable number of wound-healing botanicals that have been widely used in the Northern Hemisphere, including Achiella millefolium, Aloe vera, Althaea officinalis, Calendula officinalis, Matricaria chamomilla, Curcuma longa, Eucalyptus, Jojoba, plantain, pine, green tea, pomegranate, and Inula. This review addresses the most often used medicinal plants from the Northern Hemisphere that facilitate the treatment of wounds, and also suggests viable natural alternatives that can be used in the field of wound care.

Evaluating Potentials of Species Rich Taxonomic Groups in Cosmetics and Dermatology: Clustering and Dispersion of Skin Efficacy of Asteraceae and Ranunculales Plants on the Species Phylogenetic Tree

BACKGROUND

The medicinal properties of plants can be predicted by virtue of phylogenetic methods, which nevertheless have not been utilized to explore the regularity of skin-related bioactivities of ethnomedicinal plants. We aim to investigate the distribution of skin efficacy of Asteraceae and Ranunculales plants on the species-level Tree of Life.

METHODS

The clinical efficacy data of 551 ethnomedicinal species belonging to Ranunculales, as well as 579 ethnomedicinal species of Asteraceae, were systematically collected and collated; these therapeutic data fell into 15 categories, including skin disease/cosmeceutical. The large phylogenetic tree of all China angiosperm species was used to detect the phylogenetic signals of ethnomedicinal plants by calculating the D statistic, phylogenetic diversity (PD), net relatedness index (NRI), and nearest taxon index (NTI). Of all Chinese ethnomedicinal plants of Ranunculales and Asteraceae, 339 (61.5% of all ethnomedicinal species) and 382 (66.0% of all) are used for skin problems. In Ranunculales, a clustered structure was suggested by the NRI value for skin uses. In Asteraceae, the skin utility was not clustered; Artemisia, Aster, Cremanthodium, Ligularia, and Saussurea are the most used Asteraceae genera for skin issues.

RESULTS

The clustering structure was identified in Artemisia, and the skin efficacy in other genera was of overdispersion (NRI < 0). NTI values and D statistics largely agree with NRI. When compared with PD values of different therapeutic categories, the PD value of the skin category was relatively high in Cremanthodium, Ranunculales, Asteraceae, and Artemisia, suggesting the enormous efficacy space in the new taxa of these taxonomic groups.

CONCLUSION

By resolving the distribution of therapeutic effects of Ranunculales/Asteraceae taxa, the importance of phylogenetic methods in mining botanical resources with skin utilities is validated.

Characterization and Anti-aging Tests of Peel-Off Gel Masks Made from Ethanolic Extract of Yarrow (Achillea millefolium)

  BACKGROUND: Yarrow extract (Achillea millefolium) is recognized to have powerful antioxidants that protect the skin from free radical damage, skin whitening, and anti-aging properties. As a result, the application of antioxidants on the skin can be packaged into a peel-off gel mask preparation for face skin care. AIM: The goal of this study is to see how different concentrations of PVA and HPMC as film-forming and gelling agents affect the quality of peel-off gel masks made from ethanol extract of yarrow (Achillea millefolium) as an antiaging ingredient. METHODS: In order to obtain 5 formulas that will be made into preparations and evaluate the quality of the preparations, this research method uses quantitative analysis methods and statistical analysis using One Way ANOVA by varying the concentrations of PVA (7-10%) and HPMC (2-4%) in order to obtain 5 formulas that will be made into preparations and evaluated the quality of the preparations. Organoleptic, homogeneity, pH, syneresis, skin irritation, viscosity, spreadability, and drying time of the mask were all evaluated. RESULT: The results of the experiment with different concentrations of PVA and HPMC enhanced dispersion and drying time, but had no effect on the viscosity value decrease. CONCLUCION: The quality of the peel off gel mask prepared from the ethanol extract of Yarrow was significantly affected by PVA and HPMC concentrations (p<0.05).    

Neurocosmetics in Skincare—The Fascinating World of Skin–Brain Connection: A Review to Explore Ingredients, Commercial Products for Skin Aging, and Cosmetic Regulation

The “modern” cosmetology industry is focusing on research devoted to discovering novel neurocosmetic functional ingredients that could improve the interactions between the skin and the nervous system. Many cosmetic companies have started to formulate neurocosmetic products that exhibit their activity on the cutaneous nervous system by affecting the skin’s neuromediators through different mechanisms of action. This review aims to clarify the definition of neurocosmetics, and to describe the features of some functional ingredients and products available on the market, with a look at the regulatory aspect. The attention is devoted to neurocosmetic ingredients for combating skin stress, explaining the stress pathways, which are also correlated with skin aging. “Neuro-relaxing” anti-aging ingredients derived from plant extracts and neurocosmetic strategies to combat inflammatory responses related to skin stress are presented. Afterwards, the molecular basis of sensitive skin and the suitable neurocosmetic ingredients to improve this problem are discussed. With the aim of presenting the major application of Botox-like ingredients as the first neurocosmetics on the market, skin aging is also introduced, and its theory is presented. To confirm the efficacy of the cosmetic products on the market, the concept of cosmetic claims is discussed.

Traditional plants from Asteraceae family as potential candidates for functional food industry

Traditional plants have been used in the treatment of disease and pain due to their beneficial properties such as antioxidant, antiinflammation, analgesic, and antibiotic activities. The Asteraceae family is one of the most common groups of plants used in folk medicine. The species Achillea millefolium, Arnica montana, Bellis perennis, Calendula officinalis, Chamaemelum nobile, Eupatorium cannabinum, Helichrysum stoechas, and Taraxacum officinale have been used in different remedies in Northwest Spain. Besides health benefits, some of them like C. nobile and H. stoechas are already employed in cooking and culinary uses, including cocktails, desserts, and savory dishes. This study aimed to review the current information on nutritive and beneficial properties and bioactive compounds of these plants, which are not mainly used as foods but are possible candidates for this purpose. The report highlights their current uses and suitability for the development of new functional food industrial applications. Phenolic compounds, essential oils, and sesquiterpene lactones are some of the most important compounds, being related to different bioactivities. Hence, they could be interesting for the development of new functional foods.

Achillea Species as Sources of Active Phytochemicals for Dermatological and Cosmetic Applications

Achillea spp. is well known for its broad range of applications and long history of use in traditional medicine around the world. Health benefits of Achillea extracts result from the multitude of secondary metabolites identified in the plants from this genus that include flavonoids, phenolic acids, terpenes, guaianolides, phytosterols, fatty acids, and organic acids. The properties of several Achillea extracts meet also the expectations of a vividly developing cosmetic market. An increasing number of studies on the dermatological properties of Achillea spp. are observed in the recent years, with Achillea millefolium L. being the most studied and used representative of the genus. There is strong scientific evidence showing that also other yarrow species might be rich sources of effective cosmetic ingredients, with skin calming and rejuvenating properties, wound healing activity, and anti-inflammatory potential. Several Achillea extracts and isolated compounds were also shown to display significant tyrosinase inhibitory, antioxidant, and antimicrobial properties and thus are interesting candidates for active ingredients of medications and cosmetic products protecting the skin from the harmful impact of environmental stressors. The aim of this review is to collect the current information on the composition and cosmeceutical significance of different Achillea species.

Achillea millefolium L. and Achillea biebersteinii Afan. Hydroglycolic Extracts-Bioactive Ingredients for Cosmetic Use

Studies on hydroglycolic (HG) extracts of Achillea biebersteinii (AB)—a less investigated representative of the genus—were performed to determine their potential for cosmetic applications compared to the well-known Achillea millefolium (AM). Three types of water:polyethylene glycol extracts (1:1, 4:1, 6:1 v/v) were obtained from both species and analyzed for their composition by high performance liquid chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry (HPLC-ESI-Q-TOF-MS) and assayed for their biological activities. The study led to the identification of 11 metabolites from different natural product classes with the highest share corresponding to 5-caffeoylquinic acid, axillarin, coumaroylquinic acid isomers and 3-caffeoylquinic acid. The highest antiradical capacity in DPPH and ABTS scavenging assays was shown for HG 4:1 of AB and AM extracts. HG 1:1 extracts from both species inhibited monophenolase and diphenolase activity of tyrosinase, whereas AB HG 4:1 extract showed significant monophenolase inhibition. The highest sun protection factor (SPF) was determined for AM HG 4:1 extract, equal to 14.04 ± 0.17. The AB extracts were cytotoxic for both human keratinocytes HaCaT and A375 melanoma, however HG 1:1 and 4:1 extracts were more cytotoxic for cancer than for noncancerous cells. In conclusion, AB HG 1:1 and 4:1 extracts display significant potential as active cosmetic ingredients.

Proprietary Herbal Extract Downregulates the Gene Expression of IL-1α in HaCaT Cells: Possible Implications Against Nonscarring Alopecia

Background

Currently while, topical minoxidil and oral finasteride are the only medications approved in androgenetic alopecia (AGA), the cause oriented treatment and immunsupressive treatment are being performed in telogen effluvium (TE) and alopecia areata (AA) respectively. Considering the inflammatory factors in the pathogenesis of these three nonscarring alopecia forms, we have formulated a mixture for topical usage composed of six different herbal extracts (HE) which have already known antiinflammatory and antioxidant features.

Materials and Methods

In addition to performing the phytochemical analysis of HE, we detected the gene expression level of IL-1α, the crucial hair loss mediator, for the putative efficacy in nonscarring alopecia. Cell proliferation assay was performed by XTT reagent. After determination of non-cytotoxic concentration, HaCaT cells were treated with HE. RNA isolations were carried out from both non-treated and treated cell groups by using TRI-reagent. Gene expressions of IL-1α and as control GAPDH were determined by RT-qPCR analysis.

Results

Results were represented as “IL-1α/GAPDH Fold Change”. HE solution caused statistically significant downregulation of IL-1α gene expressions (p<0.0001), compared to untreated control cells. HE treatment ended up with 0.1900 fold change for IL-1α.

Conclusion

IL-1α is a direct growth inhibitory agent in hair follicles and an important actor in the pathogenesis of AGA , TE, and AA. Considering together the vitamins, flavonoids, and trace elements identified in the phytochemical analyses and downregulation of IL-1α in HaCaT cells, our HE may be an auxiliary agent in the therapy of these three nonscarring alopecia forms.

N-alkylamide profiling of Achillea ptarmica and Achillea millefolium extracts by liquid and gas chromatography-mass spectrometry

Achillea millefolium and Achillea ptarmica are both plants belonging to the Asteracea family and are traditionally used for their medicinal properties. It has already been shown that some N-alkylamides (NAAs) are responsible for these pharmacological actions. Therefore, in the present study, the NAA content of the two plants was analytically characterised. Different extracts were prepared from the roots, the leaves, the stems and the flowers. The structures of NAAs have been assigned in ethanolic extracts of Achillea millefolium and Achillea ptarmica using high performance liquid chromatography – electrospray ionisation – mass spectrometry (HPLC–ESI–MS) and gas chromatography – electron impact – mass spectrometry (GC–EI–MS). Using both analytical techniques, the structures of 14 and 15 NAAs have been assigned in Achillea ptarmica and Achillea millefolium, respectively. Structures of two new NAAs, previously never observed in Achillea ptarmica, were assigned: deca-2E,6Z,8E-trienoic acid 2-methylbutylamide (homospilanthol) or a related isomeric compound and deca-2E,4E-dienoic acid N-methyl isobutylamide. The structure of homospilanthol or a related isomeric compound was also assigned in Achillea millefolium for the first time.

Active ingredients against human epidermal aging

The decisive role of the epidermis in maintaining body homeostasis prompted studies to evaluate the changes in epidermal structure and functionality over the lifetime. This development, along with the identification of molecular mechanisms of epidermal signaling, maintenance, and differentiation, points to a need for new therapeutic alternatives to treat and prevent skin aging. In addition to recovering age- and sun-compromised functions, proper treatment of the epidermis has important esthetic implications. This study reviews active ingredients capable of counteracting symptoms of epidermal aging, organized according to the regulation of specific age-affected epidermal functions: (1) several compounds, other than retinoids and derivatives, act on the proliferation and differentiation of keratinocytes, supporting the protective barrier against mechanical and chemical insults; (2) natural lipidic compounds, as well as glycerol and urea, are described as agents for maintaining water-ion balance; (3) regulation of immunological pathogen defense can be reinforced by natural extracts and compounds, such as resveratrol; and (4) antioxidant exogenous sources enriched with flavonoids and vitamin C, for example, improve solar radiation protection and epidermal antioxidant activity. The main objective is to provide a functional classification of active ingredients as regulatory elements of epidermal homeostasis, with potential cosmetic and/or dermatological applications.

A histochemical study of ultraviolet B irradiation and Origanum hypericifolium oil applied to the skin of mice

Ultraviolet (UV) rays cause skin damage. Chronic exposure to UV irradiation causes decreased collagen synthesis, degenerative changes in collagen bundles, accumulation of elastotic material and increased epidermal thickness. Origanum hypericifolium, an endemic Turkish plant, belongs to Lamiaceae family. The main constituents of its oil are monoterpenes including cymene, carvacrol, thymol and γ-terpinene. The effects of undiluted O. hypericifolium oil on UVB irradiated skin of mice were investigated histochemically. Four groups of female BALB/c mice, whose dorsal hair was shaved, were allocated as follows: non-UVB irradiated (Group 1), UVB-irradiated (Group 2), O. hypericifolium oil treated (Group 3), and O. hypericifolium oil treated and UVB irradiated (Group 4). Sections of dorsal skin samples were stained with Mallory's phosphotungstic acid hematoxylin for collagen fibers and Taenzer-Unna orcein for elastic fibers. Sections also were stained with hematoxylin and eosin to measure epidermal thickness. We observed intense staining of collagen and homogeneous, scattered thin elastic fibers in Group 1; scattered and weakly stained collagen and curled, amorphous, accumulate elastic fibers in Group 2; and intense staining of collagen in Groups 3 and 4. Accumulation of elastic fibers in the dermis was unremarkable in Groups 3 and 4. In Groups 3 and 4, O. hypericifolium oil treatment thickened the epidermis. Epidermal thickness was greatest in Group 4. We suggest that O. hypericifolium oil may block UVB induced alterations of collagen and elastic fibers, and increase epidermal thickness.