'Cosmeceuticals'. Of men, science and laws…

International expert consensus recommendations for the use of dermocosmetics in acne

BACKGROUND

A wide variety of dermocosmetics (products with both active skincare and cosmetic activity) are available for the management of acne vulgaris. These products are important because they may be the first line of approach for patients desiring to self-treat and they can also have beneficial effects-reducing lesion counts and improving global acne severity. When used in conjunction with medical therapy, dermocosmetics can improve tolerability and enhance results. We reviewed available evidence and combined it with our clinical experience to help guide clinicians in selecting skincare products with acne-targeting ingredients.

METHODS

An international panel of dermatologists with an interest and expertise in managing acne performed a literature review, formulated clinical questions related to the role of dermocosmetics in the acne setting, used a modified GRADE approach to evaluate available evidence and then utilized an online iterative Delphi process to create consensus recommendations. It should be noted that due to the limited number of available studies, the category of dermocosmetics was evaluated rather than specific ingredients.

RESULTS

The quality of evidence was found to be low to moderate. Key recommendations were made based on available evidence for the use of dermocosmetics in acne to improve acne global assessment, reduce acne lesion counts, reduce superficial skin oiliness and serve as maintenance therapy after medical treatment, while providing a good tolerability. Recommendations were also made for using dermocosmetics as adjuncts to medical treatment.

CONCLUSIONS

While there is a need for better quality evidence, dermocosmetics have demonstrated some benefit for acne both when used alone in its milder clinical presentations or in maintenance post acne medication and as adjunct to acne treatments.

A study of anti-wrinkle functions and improvement of cream with Phaseolus angularis

Chronic exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation from sunlight accelerates skin ageing, which is followed by harsh, thick, dry and loose conditions. One of the most demonstrative symptoms is deep wrinkles induced by skin barrier disruption. Our previous research showed that Phaseolus angularis seed extract (PASE) effectively inhibits skin ageing through UVB protection in HaCaT cells by suppressing skin damage. However, its efficacy has not been evaluated in clinical trials so far. PASE cream's effectiveness was initially tested on the artificial skin model, revealing an increase in filaggrin and defence against skin damage. Based on these results, in this single-centred, randomized, double-blind study, we investigated the anti-ageing effect of PASE in human eye wrinkle areas. For these 21 healthy adult women aged 30 to 59, a PASE cream was applied to the right eye wrinkle area and a placebo to the left eye wrinkle area twice a day (morning and evening) for 12 weeks. The change in thick, deep crease wrinkles around the eyes was confirmed by visual evaluation, skin measurements and a questionnaire. As a result, the surface roughness (R1), maximum roughness (R2), average roughness (R3), smoothness depth (R4) and arithmetic mean roughness (R5) values in the group using the PASE cream all decreased. Particularly, R1, R4 and R5 significantly decreased by 18.1%, 18.6% and 25.0%, respectively. Subjects who applied PASE cream also experienced an improvement in skin moisture nearly twice the time compared to the placebo group. In addition, no participants reported side effects. Our study showed that PASE cream led to clinically significant levels of wrinkle improvement. In conclusion, as PASE is a natural, safe food with no side effects, it can be a good resource for natural anti-wrinkle functional cosmetics in the future.

The Role and Benefits of Dermocosmetics in Acne Management in Japan

In Japan, as in other countries around the world, acne vulgaris is a common disease and a frequent reason for patients to consult dermatologists. For optimal management of acne, it is important to understand how available products to support skin health can be used both with and without prescription products. Dermocosmetics can be defined as skincare agents with dermatologically active ingredients that directly support or care for the symptoms of various skin conditions (distinct from vehicle effects). There are products with active ingredients-including familiar ones such as niacinamide, retinol derivatives, and salicylic acid-that target important aspects of acne pathophysiology. Others, including ceramides, glyercin, thermal spring water, and panthenols, may have positive effects on skin barrier function that are useful in managing acne. This publication will discuss the roles of dermocosmetics in acne either as monotherapy to manage the milder forms of acne and help prevent relapses, or as adjuncts to prescription therapy to increase efficacy or adherence and assist in prevention of local adverse effects. Dermocosmetics may also have active ingredients that positively impact the skin microbiome.

Skin Carotenoids in Public Health and Nutricosmetics: The Emerging Roles and Applications of the UV Radiation-Absorbing Colourless Carotenoids Phytoene and Phytofluene

In this work, the importance of dietary carotenoids in skin health and appearance is comprehensively reviewed and discussed. References are made to their applications in health-promoting and nutricosmetic products and the important public health implications that can be derived. Attention is focused on the colourless UV radiation (UVR)-absorbing dietary carotenoids phytoene and phytofluene, which are attracting increased interest in food science and technology, nutrition, health and cosmetics. These compounds are major dietary carotenoids, readily bioavailable, and have been shown to be involved in several health-promoting actions, as pinpointed in recent reviews. The growing evidence that these unique UVR-absorbing carotenoids with distinctive structures, properties (light absorption, susceptibility to oxidation, rigidity, tendency to aggregation, or even fluorescence, in the case of phytofluene) and activities can be beneficial in these contexts is highlighted. Additionally, the recommendation that the levels of these carotenoids are considered in properly assessing skin carotenoid status is made.

Cosmetics and Cosmeceutical Applications of Chitin, Chitosan and Their Derivatives

Marine resources are well recognized for their biologically active substances with great potential applications in the cosmeceutical industry. Among the different compounds with a marine origin, chitin and its deacetylated derivative—chitosan—are of great interest to the cosmeceutical industry due to their unique biological and technological properties. In this review, we explore the different functional roles of chitosan as a skin care and hair care ingredient, as an oral hygiene agent and as a carrier for active compounds, among others. The importance of the physico-chemical properties of the polymer in its use in cosmetics are particularly highlighted. Moreover, we analyse the market perspectives of this polymer and the presence in the market of chitosan-based products.

An emulsion of pigmented nanoceria as a medicinal cosmetic

In this work, SnO₂functionalized graphene oxide was shown to possess high adsorption capacities and fast adsorption rates for organic dyes over wide pH ranges. Additionally, the adsorbent could be easily regenerated by washing with ethanol.

Photodamage: treatments and topicals for facial skin

This article provides an overview of current therapies for photodamaged facial skin and their efficacy, with particular focus on studies that use the objective, quantitative evaluation methods discussed in the previous article. The role of topically applied agents including prescription drugs and cosmetics is discussed. From this information, a schema for the relative effectiveness of therapeutic modalities in reducing perceived age is presented. This information assists the facial plastic surgeon in evaluating patient expectations and selecting the most effective program.