Evidence of the protective effect of anti-pollution products against oxidative stress in skin ex vivo using EPR spectroscopy and autofluorescence measurements

The concentration of air pollution is gradually increasing every year so that daily skin exposure is unavoidable. Dietary supplements and topical formulations currently represent the protective strategies to guard against the effects of air pollution on the body and the skin. Unfortunately, there are not yet enough methods available to measure the effectiveness of anti-pollution products on skin. Here, we present two ex vivo methods for measuring the protective effect against air pollution of different cream formulations on the skin: Electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) spectroscopy and autofluorescence excited by 785 nm using a confocal Raman microspectrometer (CRM). Smoke from one cigarette was used as a model pollutant. EPR spectroscopy enables the direct measurement of free radicals in excised porcine skin after smoke exposure. The autofluorescence in the skin was measured ex vivo, which is an indicator of oxidative stress. Two antioxidants and a chelating agent in a base formulation and a commercial product containing an antioxidant mixture were investigated. The ex vivo studies show that the antioxidant epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG) in the base cream formulation provided the best protection against oxidative stress from smoke exposure for both methods.

Oxidative Modification of Trichocyte Keratins

Oxidation of keratin results in a range of deleterious effects, including discolouration and compromised physical and mechanical properties. Keratin oxidative degradation is driven by molecular-level events, with accumulation of modifications at the protein primary level resulting directly in changes to secondary, tertiary and quaternary structure, as well as eventually changes in the observable physical and chemical properties. Advances in proteomic analysis techniques provide an increasingly clearer insight into the cascade of molecular modification underpinning keratin oxidation and how this translates through to higher order changes in properties. This chapter summarises the effects of oxidation on keratin-based materials, the types of molecular modification associated with this, and advances in techniques and approaches for characterising this modification.

The role of chelating agents and amino acids in preventing free radical formation in bleaching systems

The control of bleaching reaction is important in hair bleaching and laundry detergents to ensure quality of the final product. A better understanding of the reaction mechanisms is needed to minimize product failures. ³¹P NMR-spectroscopy-based spin trap technique was employed to detect and quantify the free radical species that were generated in different bleaching solutions. These solutions contained the key actives in an alkaline hair colorant/bleaching product, an ammonium salt and hydrogen peroxide at pH = 10. Generally, the main radical species detected in hair oxidative coloring or bleaching processes, were hydroperoxyl/superoxide radicals HO₂·/O₂^.-, amino radicals ·NH₂ and hydroxyl radicals ·OH. Their amounts showed a variation based on the chemical composition of the bleaching systems and the metal ion content. The generation of free radicals from reactions between transition metal ions, such as copper, and hydrogen peroxide at pH = 10 was evaluated. In the absence of chelating agents, the copper ions generated a significant level of hydroxyl radicals in a Fenton-like reaction with hydrogen peroxide at pH = 10. Besides that, an increase in copper ion content led to an increase of amino radical ·NH₂, whereas the concentration of superoxide radical O₂^·- decreased which was not yet well reported in the previous literature. The effect of chelating agents like ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), tetrasodium-iminodisuccinate (IDS), a mixture of basic amino acids and dicarboxylic acid on free radical formation was investigated in the presence of binary Cu²⁺-Ca²⁺ bleaching systems. As expected, in the binary Cu²⁺-Ca²⁺ ion system EDTA did not suppress hydroxyl radical formation effectively, but the mixture containing sodium succinate, lysine and arginine reduced hydroxyl radical formation, whereas IDS (nearly) completely inhibited hydroxyl radical formation. The results indicated that each bleaching solution has its characteristic performance and damage profile. Whereas the reactivity can be controlled by the usage of chelating agents.

Role of copper in photochemical damage to hair

OBJECTIVE

The objective of this work was to identify whether low levels of redox metals such as copper will accelerate damage to hair on exposure to UV irradiation and whether this damage can be prevented.

METHODS

The methods used were proteomics to measure the protein damage via protein loss after different periods of exposure and mass spectroscopy methods to identify specific marker peptides that are specifically created by this type of damage.

RESULTS

In this work, we have developed new insights into the mechanism of UV damage using these proteomic methods. A marker fragment in the hair protein loss extract was identified (m/z = 1279) that is unique to UV exposure and increases with time of UV exposure. We have also identified for the first time in hair the role of exogenous copper in increasing UV damage both in terms of total protein degradation and also increased formation of the marker fragment and proposed a mechanism of action. It has been demonstrated that shampoo treatment containing a chelant such as N,N'-ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (EDDS) reduced copper accumulation in hair.

CONCLUSION

This work provides evidence for the role of copper in UV-induced damage to hair and strategies to reduce copper levels in hair using a chelant such as EDDS.