Deodorants on the European market: quantitative chemical analysis of 21 fragrances

Human Metabolism and Urinary Elimination Kinetics of the Fragrance Geraniol after Oral Dosage

Geraniol is a fragrance with a characteristic rose-like smell, naturally occurring in terpene oil and also chemically synthesized on a large scale. Geraniol is widely used in consumer products such as cosmetics, personal care products, and household cleaners and as an additive in foods. An experimental study in human volunteers was carried out to investigate the metabolism and elimination kinetics of geraniol. Three subjects were orally exposed to geraniol in two different dosages (25 or 250 mg). In each case, one pre-exposure urine sample and all urine voids for 72 h after exposure were collected separately. The geraniol metabolites Hildebrandt acid, geranic acid, 3-hydroxycitronellic acid, and 8-carboxygeraniol were analyzed in every sample after enzymatic hydrolysis and liquid-liquid extraction using liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry (LC-MS/MS). Maximum urinary concentrations of the metabolites were measured between 1 and 5 h after oral dosing, and elimination half-lives were determined to be about 2-4 h. The predominant metabolite found in urine was Hildebrandt acid with 34.4 ± 5.6% of the ingested dose, followed by geranic acid (12.7 ± 5.6%), 3-hydroxycitronellic acid (2.2 ± 0.4%), and 8-carboxygeraniol (0.19 ± 0.09%). In total, the four metabolites determined represent 41.7-55.5% of the ingested dose. Only 8-carboxygeraniol is, however, a specific metabolite, while the other three target analytes are also formed from other terpenes like citral. Within this study, conversion factors were calculated, which allow for a rough estimate of the total geraniol uptake by back-calculation from metabolite concentrations of spot urine samples. Taking the conversion factor for all four metabolites into account, a mean daily uptake of geraniol of 1.43 mg was estimated from 41 urine samples of occupationally nonexposed adults. The metabolites Hildebrandt acid, geranic acid, 3-hydroxycitronellic acid, and 8-carboxygeraniol in urine are suitable biomarkers of exposure for geraniol and can be used for human biomonitoring studies.

Structure- and computational-aided engineering of an oxidase to produce isoeugenol from a lignin-derived compound

Various 4-alkylphenols can be easily obtained through reductive catalytic fractionation of lignocellulosic biomass. Selective dehydrogenation of 4-n-propylguaiacol results in the formation of isoeugenol, a valuable flavor and fragrance molecule and versatile precursor compound. Here we present the engineering of a bacterial eugenol oxidase to catalyze this reaction. Five mutations, identified from computational predictions, are first introduced to render the enzyme more thermostable. Other mutations are then added and analyzed to enhance chemoselectivity and activity. Structural insight demonstrates that the slow catalytic activity of an otherwise promising enzyme variant is due the formation of a slowly-decaying covalent substrate-flavin cofactor adduct that can be remedied by targeted residue changes. The final engineered variant comprises eight mutations, is thermostable, displays good activity and acts as a highly chemoselective 4-n-propylguaiacol oxidase. We lastly use our engineered biocatalyst in an illustrative preparative reaction at gram-scale. Our findings show that a natural enzyme can be redesigned into a tailored biocatalyst capable of valorizing lignin-based monophenols.

Impact of citronellol on river and soil environments using non-target model organisms and natural populations

Citronellol is an acyclic monoterpenoid with a wide range of pharmacological activities (antibacterial, antifungal, anti-lice, repellent, lipolytic, anti-allergic, anti-inflammatory, antispasmodic, antidiabetic, anti-cholesterol, among other) and potential to replace synthetic products. However, the impact of citronellol on the environment remains unknown. We analysed, for the first time, the environmental impact of citronellol on river and soil environments using non-target model organisms and natural populations. The acute toxicity of citronellol on the aquatic invertebrate Daphnia magna, the plant Allium cepa L and the earthworm Eisenia fetida was quantified. The effect of citronellol in a river ecosystem was analysed using river periphyton communities taxonomically characterised and a river microbial community characterised through 16 S rRNA gene sequencing. Finally, a microbial community from natural soil was used to monitor the effect of citronellol on the soil ecosystem. The results showed that E. fetida was most sensitive to citronellol (LC₅₀ = 12.34 mg/L), followed by D. magna (LC₅₀ = 14.11 mg/L). Citronellol affected the photosynthesis of the fluvial periphyton (LC₅₀ = 94.10 mg/L) and was phytotoxic for A. cepa. Furthermore, citronellol modified the growth and metabolism of both fluvial (LC₅₀ = 0.19% v/v) and edaphic (LC₅₀ = 5.07% v/v) bacterial populations. The metabolism of the microorganisms in the soil and water exposed to citronellol decreased with respect to the control, especially their ability to metabolise carbohydrates. Our results show that citronellol has a negative impact on the environment. Although acute effects cannot be expected, it is necessary to quantify the environmental levels as well as the long-term and persistent effects of this monoterpene.

Human biomonitoring in urine samples from the Environmental Specimen Bank reveals a decreasing trend over time in the exposure to the fragrance chemical lysmeral from 2000 to 2018

2-(4-tert-butylbenzyl)propionaldehyde (trade names, e.g. lysmeral or lilial) is a fragrance chemical frequently used in cosmetic products where it is labelled as Butylphenyl methylpropional. A recently developed LC-MS/MS method for the analysis of four lysmeral metabolites (tert-butylbenzoic acid (TBBA), lysmerol, lysmerylic acid, and hydroxy-lysmerylic acid) was applied to 329 urine samples from the Environmental Specimen Bank collected between 2000 and 2018. The two major metabolites TBBA and lysmerol were found in quantifiable concentrations in almost all samples in this study and correlated significantly. Hence, both analytes proved to be specific biomarkers indicating the broad exposure to lysmeral. A significant decline was found for TBBA and lysmerol for the monitored years with the most pronounced decrease from 2012 to 2015. The daily intake (DI) was used to evaluate potential health risks with respect to the derived no-effect level (DNEL) as a threshold for exposure of the general population. The median DI (1.63 μg/kg bw/d) and the 95th percentile (4.69 μg/kg bw/d) corresponded to 2.6% and 7.5% of the lowest DNEL (62.5 μg/kg bw/d for oral administration), respectively. Even though a decreasing trend in exposure was observed the data still calls for efforts to reduce the exposure towards lysmeral since metabolites of lysmeral were detected in nearly all samples and adverse effects cannot be excluded. Clearly, these results need to be substantiated by HBM campaigns in population representative samples like the German Environmental Survey in adults (GerES VI) to provide more robust data for the adult population.

Quantitative determination of urinary metabolites of geraniol by ultra-performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry (UPLC-MS/MS)

Geraniol is a fragrance which occurs in natural terpene oil or is chemically synthesized on a large scale. It is used in a wide variety of consumer products such as perfumes, deodorants, household products and cosmetics. Hence, not only industry workers in the production of geraniol, but also consumers can come into contact with the substance. Human biomonitoring (HBM), i.e. the analytical determination of substances and their metabolites in human biological material, is a key element in the analysis and assessment of the distribution and intensity of occupational and environmental exposure of humans. Therefore, a procedure for the quantitative determination of the urinary metabolites Hildebrandt acid, geranic acid, 3-hydroxycitronellic acid and 8-carboxygeraniol as potential biomarkers of geraniol exposure was developed and validated. The method is based on ultra-performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry (UPLC-MS/MS) after enzymatic hydrolysis and liquid-liquid extraction (LLE) of the target analytes. The limit of quantification (LOQ) is 1.5 μg L^-1 for 8-carboxygeraniol, 2.7 μg L^-1 each for Hildebrandt acid and geranic acid, and 1.8 μg L^-1 for 3-hydroxycitronellic acid. The method was applied to urine samples of 41 persons without occupational exposure to geraniol. Hildebrandt acid and geranic acid were detected in all samples, 8-carboxygeraniol in 83% and 3-hydroxycitronellic acid in 81% of the samples. Hildebrandt acid (median: 313 μg L^-1, range: 37-1966 μg L^-1) was the most abundant metabolite, followed by geranic acid (93 μg L^-1; 9-477 μg L^-1), 3-hydroxycitronellic acid (18 μg L^-1; <LOQ to 70 μg L^-1) and 8-carboxygeraniol (9 μg L^-1; <LOQ to 46 μg L^-1). Hildebrandt acid, geranic acid and 3-hydroxycitronellic acid apparently represent larger relative fractions of the eliminated metabolites, but they are not strictly specific for geraniol since they are metabolites of other terpenes as well, such as citral. In contrast, geraniol seems to be the only parent compound for 8-carboxygeraniol, which makes this metabolite a promising candidate for specific human biomonitoring and risk assessment.

Biomonitoring data on young adults from the Environmental Specimen Bank suggest a decrease in the exposure to the fragrance chemical 7-hydroxycitronellal in Germany from 2000 to 2018

7-Hydroxy-3,7-dimethyl-1-octanal, also known as 7-hydroxycitronellal (7-HC, CAS No. 107-75-5) is a synthetic fragrance widely used in cosmetic and hygiene products. Because of its wide spread use and its known sensitizing properties, 7-HC was selected as one of 50 chemicals within the frame of the cooperation project between the German Federal Ministry for the Environment, Nature Conservation and Nuclear Safety (BMU) and the German Chemical Industry Association (VCI) to develop a suitable human biomonitoring (HBM) method in order to assess the exposure of the general population in Germany. Within this scope, the recently published analytical method for urinary 7-hydroxycitronellylic acid (7-HCA), the major metabolite of 7-HC, was applied to 329 24h-urine samples of young adults (20 to 29 years) collected between 2000 and 2018 and stored in the Environmental Specimen Bank (ESB). The widespread exposure to 7-HC as already observed in a pilot study with 40 volunteers could be confirmed with quantifiable concentrations of 7-HCA in all 329 study samples (mean: 14.9 ng/mL; median: 8.1 ng/mL). A significant, chronological decrease in 7-HCA levels was found for the monitored years (2000, 2004, 2008, 2012, 2015, 2018). The most pronounced decline occurred between 2000 and 2004 (means: 34.37 versus 23.31, medians: 20.97 versus 12.49 μg/24h; p < 0.01). On average, females exhibited higher levels of urinary 7-HCA compared to males (29.34 versus 17.21 μg/24h, p < 0.05). Based on the urinary 7-HCA excretion, the daily intake (DI) of 7-HC normalized for body weight (bw) was estimated. Over all sampling years, average DI in females was significantly higher compared to males (0.99 versus 0.46 μg/kg bw/d). Assuming dermal exposure as the main route of 7-HC intake, the mean DIs correspond to <0.1% of the derived no effect level (DNEL) of 1,100 μg/kg bw/d defined by the European Chemical Agency (ECHA). The presented results for the exposure to the widely used fragrance 7-HC in Germany can be substantiated by applying the described methodology to the representative cohort of the launched German Environmental Survey in adults (GerES VI).

Effect of geraniol against arecoline induced toxicity in the third instar larvae of transgenic Drosophila melanogaster (hsp70-lacZ) Bg9

In the present study geraniol at the final concentration of 10, 20, 30, and 40 µM was mixed in the diet along with 80 µM of arecoline and the third instar larvae of transgenic Drosophila melanogaster (hsp70-lacZ) Bg⁹ were allowed to feed on it for 24 hrs. After the exposure of 24 hrs the larvae were subjected to ONPG, X-gal, trypan blue exclusion test, oxidative stress markers and apoptotic and comet assays. The exposure of larvae to geraniol showed a dose dependent decrease in the activity of β-galactosidase, tissue damage and oxidative stress markers. A dose dependent decrease in apoptosis and DNA damage was also observed. Molecular docking studies also support the protective role of geraniol against the arecoline induced toxicity. The results suggest that geraniol is potent in reducing the toxicity induced by arecoline in the third instar larvae of transgenic Drosophila melanogaster (hsp70-lacZ) Bg⁹.

A validated UPLC-MS/MS method for biomonitoring the exposure to the fragrance 7-hydroxycitronellal

7-Hydroxycitronellal is a synthetic fragrance (CAS No. 107-75-5) which is used commonly in cosmetics, washing- and cleaning agents and as flavoring in foods. Due to its broad application in various fields, 7-hydroxycitronellal was selected for the development of a biomonitoring method for the quantitative exposure assessment within the frame of the cooperation project of the German Federal Ministry for the Environment, Nature Conservation, Building and Nuclear Safety (BMUB) and the German Chemical Industry Association (VCI). For this purpose, an ultra performance liquid chromatography combined with tandem mass spectrometry (UPLC-MS/MS) based method was developed for the determination of potential biomarkers of 7-hydroxycitronellal (7-HC) in human urine samples. 7-Hydroxycitronellylic acid (7-HCA) turned out to be the quantitatively most important metabolite of 7-HC in human urine, occurring in 1000 times higher amounts than 7-hydroxycitronellol (7-HCO) or other potential metabolites. Therefore, an analytical method for 7-HCA was developed using stable isotope-labeled 7-HCA as internal standard (IS). The method includes a cleavage step of possible metabolite conjugates with an enzyme mix of ß-glucuronidase and arylsulfatase. Subsequent sample cleanup was performed by liquid-liquid extraction (LLE) with dichloromethane. The method was calibrated by calculating the linear regression between the analyte/IS ratio and the nominal 7-HCA concentrations in water. The method was validated according to approved standard guidelines and proved to be robust, reliable and sensitive for the human biomonitoring of 7-HC. The method was applied to urine samples of 40 adult volunteers from the general population. 7-HCA was quantifiable in urine of all subjects. Thus the developed method proved to be suitable for assessing the background exposure to 7-HC in the general population.

Bioprofiling of Cosmetics with Focus on Streamlined Coumarin Analysis

Facing the widespread use of cosmetic products in daily use and recognizing the very limited information obtained by target analysis, a method suited for comprehensive characterization of cosmetics was aimed at. The biological activity of ingredients of 20 cosmetics taken from 16 different product groups and their coumarin contents were investigated via chromatography linked to bioassays (direct bioautography) and mass spectrometry. It allows for screening a large number of cosmetic products within a short time to generate a more valid database on their coumarin content and their contribution to the overall exposure. Bioactivity profiling of cosmetics with regard to bioactive ingredients opens new avenues for a comprehensive characterization of important substances in products of daily use, helpful for the legally required safety and risk assessment of cosmetic products, especially for multiple product usage. As for coumarin, a ubiquitary fragrance compound of allergenic potential, which is under recurrent discussion due to its hepatoxic properties, it is necessary to be able to estimate the regular intake via cosmetics for a valid risk assessment. This newly developed bioprofiling method allowed a selective determination of coumarin down to 1.3 mg kg-1, even for very matrix-rich cosmetics despite minimalism in sample preparation. The declaration limits according to European Cosmetics Regulation were completely covered. Mean coumarin contents of 20 cosmetic products reached up to 2218 mg kg-1. The repeatabilities (%RSD, n = 3) were between 1.1 and 2.9%, and the mean recoveries (n = 5) were between 96 and 102% for the different cosmetic matrices.

In Situ Metabolism of Cinnamyl Alcohol in Reconstructed Human Epidermis: New Insights into the Activation of This Fragrance Skin Sensitizer

Chemical modification of epidermal proteins by skin sensitizers is the molecular event which initiates the induction of contact allergy. However, not all chemical skin allergens react directly as haptens with epidermal proteins but need either a chemical (prehaptens) or metabolic (prohaptens) activation step to become reactive. Cinnamyl alcohol has been considered a model prohapten, as this skin sensitizer has no intrinsic reactivity. Therefore, the prevailing theory is that cinnamyl alcohol is enzymatically oxidized into the protein-reactive cinnamaldehyde, which is the sensitizing agent. Knowing that reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) models have been demonstrated to be quite similar to the normal human epidermis in terms of metabolic enzymes, use of RHE may be useful to investigate the in situ metabolism/activation of cinnamyl alcohol, particularly when coupled with high-resolution magic angle spinning nuclear magnetic resonance. Incubation of carbon-13 substituted cinnamyl derivatives with RHE did not result in the formation of cinnamaldehyde. The metabolites formed suggest the formation of an epoxy-alcohol and an allylic sulfate as potential electrophiles. These data suggest that cinnamyl alcohol is inducing skin sensitization through a route independent of the one involving cinnamaldehyde and should therefore be considered as a skin sensitizer on its own.

Natural personal care products-analysis of ingredient lists and legal situation

BACKGROUND

Many natural substances are classified as dangerous substances according to the European regulation on classification and labelling. Are they used in natural personal care products today? One hundred ingredient lists were analyzed to find this out.

RESULTS

All products with natural substances contained dangerous natural substances or they contained natural substances, for which the information about their classification as dangerous substances is not available. 54 natural substances quoted in the ingredient lists were found to be classified, with 37 substances being classified due to hazardous effects for skin and eyes. However, the most frequently used natural substances are not classified as dangerous. Natural substances are multi-constituent compounds, leading to two main problems in personal care products: the potential interactions of a multitude of substances and the fact that dangerous constituents are not disclosed in the ingredient lists. For example, the fragrance allergens citral, farnesol, limonene, and linalool are frequent components of the natural substances employed. In addition, 82 products listed allergenic fragrance ingredients as single substances in their ingredient lists. Recommendations for sensitive skin in a product's name do not imply that the '26 fragrance allergens' are omitted. Furthermore, 80 products listed 'parfum'/'aroma', and 50 products listed ethanol.

CONCLUSIONS

The data show that the loopholes for natural substances and for personal care products in the present European chemical legislation (e.g. the exception for classification and labelling of cosmetic products and the exception for information transfer in the supply chain) are not in line with an adequate consumer and environmental protection.

Clove essential oil-in-cyclodextrin-in-liposomes in the aqueous and lyophilized states: From laboratory to large scale using a membrane contactor

This work is dedicated to prepare liposomal dry powder formulations of inclusion complexes of clove essential oil (CEO) and its main component eugenol (Eug). Ethanol injection method and membrane contactor were applied to prepare liposomes at laboratory and large scale, respectively. Various liposomal formulations were tested: (1) free hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin loaded liposomes; (2) drug in hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin in liposomes (DCL); (3) DCL2 obtained by double loading technique, where the drug is added in the organic phase and the inclusion complex in the aqueous phase. Liposomes were characterized for their particle size, polydispersity index, Zeta potential, morphology, encapsulation efficiency of CEO components and Eug loading rate. Reproducible results were obtained with both injection devices. Compared to Eug-loaded liposomes, DCL and DCL2 improved the loading rate of Eug and possessed smaller vesicles size. The DPPH(•) scavenging activity of Eug and CEO was maintained upon incorporation of Eug and CEO into DCL and DCL2. Contrary to DCL2, DCL formulations were stable after 1 month of storage at 4°C and upon reconstitution of the dried lyophilized cakes. Hence, DCL in aqueous and lyophilized forms, are considered as a promising carrier system to preserve volatile and hydrophobic drugs enlarging their application in cosmetic, pharmaceutical and food industries.

Fragrance allergic contact dermatitis

Fragrances are a common cause of allergic contact dermatitis in Europe and in North America. They can affect individuals at any age and elicit a spectrum of reactions from contact urticaria to systemic contact dermatitis. Growing recognition of the widespread use of fragrances in modern society has fueled attempts to prevent sensitization through improved allergen identification, labeling, and consumer education. This review provides an overview and update on fragrance allergy. Part 1 discusses the epidemiology and evaluation of suspected fragrance allergy. Part 2 reviews screening methods, emerging fragrance allergens, and management of patients with fragrance contact allergy. This review concludes by examining recent legislation on fragrances and suggesting potential additions to screening series to help prevent and detect fragrance allergy.

Air-oxidized linalyl acetate - an emerging fragrance allergen?

BACKGROUND

Linalyl acetate is a fragrance chemical that is prone to autoxidation. Exposure to linalyl acetate occurs through cosmetic products and essential oils, but is difficult to assess, as linalyl acetate is not labelled in the EU.

OBJECTIVE

To investigate the frequencies of contact allergy to oxidized linalyl acetate among dermatitis patients, and to investigate the autoxidation of linalyl acetate in terms of hydroperoxide formation and sensitization potency.

PATIENTS AND METHODS

Hydroperoxide formation in air-exposed linalyl acetate was determined with high-performance liquid chromatography. The sensitization potencies of hydroperoxides were determined with the local lymph node assay. One thousand seven hundred and seventeen patients were patch tested with oxidized linalyl acetate at 6.0% in petrolatum.

RESULTS

Of the patients, 2.2% showed positive reactions to oxidized linalyl acetate. Forty-three per cent of the positive patients also had positive patch test reactions to other fragrance markers. Linalyl acetate hydroperoxides were detected early in the autoxidation process, and accumulated to a concentration of 37% after 42 weeks of air exposure. The linalyl acetate hydroperoxides were classified as moderate sensitizers.

CONCLUSIONS

The frequency of positive reactions to oxidized linalyl acetate is comparable to that of previously studied oxidized fragrance terpenes. Oxidized linalyl acetate could thus be a common fragrance contact allergen.

Air-oxidized linalool elicits eczema in allergic patients - a repeated open application test study

BACKGROUND

Linalool is a commonly used fragrance terpene that forms potent sensitizers upon oxidation. In a recent multicentre study, we found that 7% of 2900 patients showed positive patch test reactions to oxidized linalool at 6.0%. No elicitation studies have been performed.

OBJECTIVE

To identify threshold concentrations for elicitation of allergic contact dermatitis caused by oxidized linalool in allergic individuals with repeated exposures.

METHODS

Repeated open application tests were performed in 6 participants previously diagnosed with contact allergy to oxidized linalool. Creams containing 3.0%, 1.0% and 0.30% oxidized linalool (corresponding to 0.56%, 0.19% and 0.056% linalool hydroperoxides, respectively) and 'fine fragrance' containing 1.0%, 0.30% and 0.10% oxidized linalool (corresponding to 0.19%, 0.056% and 0.019% linalool hydroperoxides, respectively) were used twice daily for up to 3 weeks. Patch testing with a dilution series of oxidized linalool was performed.

RESULTS

Five of 6 participants reacted to the cream containing 3% oxidized linalool. With 1% oxidized linalool, a reaction was seen in 3 (cream) and 4 (fine fragrance) participants, respectively. With 0.3% oxidized linalool, 2 (cream) and 1 (fine fragrance) participants reacted.

CONCLUSION

Repeated exposure to low concentrations of oxidized linalool can elicit allergic contact dermatitis in previously sensitized individuals.

Allergic contact dermatitis to fragrances. Part 1

Fragrances are a large group of substances and the second most common cause of allergic contact dermatitis in Spain. These potential allergens are extremely common and the general population is subject to continuous exposure on a daily basis. While the fragrance markers included in the current Spanish standard patch test series are good, there is room for improvement. New markers that have emerged in recent years have proven to be of value in standard series used in other countries. Diagnosing fragrance allergy has taken on even greater importance since the European Union added 26 fragrances to its list of mandatory ingredients to be specified on product labels. The aim of this review is to provide an update on allergic contact dermatitis to fragrances. We examine the main sources of exposure and clinical manifestations of this condition and propose a diagnostic and treatment protocol.

Contact allergy to air-exposed geraniol: clinical observations and report of 14 cases

BACKGROUND

The fragrance terpene geraniol forms sensitizing compounds via autoxidation and skin metabolism. Geranial and neral, the two isomers of citral, are the major haptens formed in both of these activation pathways.

OBJECTIVES

To investigate whether testing with oxidized geraniol detects more cases of contact allergy than testing with pure geraniol.

PATIENTS AND METHODS

The pattern of reactions to pure and oxidized geraniol, and metabolites/autoxidation products, was studied to investigate the importance of autoxidation or cutaneous metabolism in contact allergy to geraniol. Pure and oxidized geraniol were tested at 2.0% petrolatum in 2227 and 2179 consecutive patients, respectively. In parallel, geranial, neral and citral were tested in 2152, 1626 and 1055 consecutive patients, respectively.

RESULTS

Pure and oxidized geraniol gave positive patch test reactions in 0.13% and 0.55% of the patients, respectively. Eight of 11 patients with positive patch test reactions to oxidized geraniol also reacted to citral or its components. Relevance for the positive patch test reactions in relation to the patients' dermatitis was found in 11 of 14 cases.

CONCLUSIONS

Testing with oxidized geraniol could detect more cases of contact allergy to geraniol. The reaction pattern of the 14 cases presented indicates that both autoxidation and metabolism could be important in sensitization to geraniol.

Fragrance chemicals lyral and lilial decrease viability of HaCat cells' by increasing free radical production and lowering intracellular ATP level: protection by antioxidants

We investigate in this study the biochemical effects on cells in culture of two commonly used fragrance chemicals: lyral and lilial. Whereas both chemicals exerted a significant effect on primary keratinocyte(s), HaCat cells, no effect was obtained with any of HepG2, Hek293, Caco2, NIH3T3, and MCF7 cells. Lyral and lilial: (a) decreased the viability of HaCat cells with a 50% cell death at 100 and 60 nM respectively; (b) decreased significantly in a dose dependant manner the intracellular ATP level following 12-h of treatment; (c) inhibited complexes I and II of electron transport chain in liver sub-mitochondrial particles; and (d) increased reactive oxygen species generation that was reversed by N-acetyl cysteine and trolox and the natural antioxidant lipoic acid, without influencing the level of free and/or oxidized glutathione. Lipoic acid protected HaCat cells against the decrease in viability induced by either compound. Dehydrogenation of lyral and lilial produce α,β-unsaturated aldehydes, that reacts with lipoic acid requiring proteins resulting in their inhibition. We propose lyral and lilial as toxic to mitochondria that have a direct effect on electron transport chain, increase ROS production, derange mitochondrial membrane potential, and decrease cellular ATP level, leading thus to cell death.

Synthesis of allylic hydroperoxides and EPR spin-trapping studies on the formation of radicals in iron systems as potential initiators of the sensitizing pathway

Many terpenes used as fragrance compounds autoxidize when exposed to air, forming allylic hydroperoxides that have the potential to be skin contact allergens. To trigger the immunotoxicity process that characterizes contact allergy, these hydroperoxides are supposed to bind covalently to proteins in the skin via radical pathways. We investigated the formation of reactive radical intermediates from 7-hydroperoxy-3,7-dimethylocta-1,5-dien-3-ol and 2-hydroperoxylimonene, responsible for the sensitizing potential acquired by autoxidized linalool and limonene. Both compounds were synthesized through new short and reproducible synthetic pathways. The hydroperoxide decomposition catalyzed by Fe(II)/Fe(III) redox systems, playing a key role in degradating peroxides in vivo, was examined by spin-trapping-EPR spectroscopy. Alkoxyl and carbon-centered free radicals derived from the hydroperoxides were successfully trapped by the spin-trap 5,5-dimethyl-1-pyrroline N-oxide, whereas peroxyl radicals were characterized by spin-trapping studies with 5-diethoxyphosphoryl-5-methyl-1-pyrroline N-oxide. Using liquid chromatography combined with mass spectrometry, we demonstrated the formation of adducts, via radical mechanisms induced by Fe(II)/Fe(III), between the hydroperoxides and N-acetylhistidine methyl ester, a model amino acid that is prone to radical reactions. Free radicals derived from these hydroperoxides can thus induce amino acid chemical modifications via radical mechanisms. The study of these mechanisms will help to understand the sensitizing potential of hydroperoxides.