Correlation of skin phototype with facial wrinkle formation

Age-related changes in cheek skin movement: A case study of Japanese women

BACKGROUND

The majority of conventional studies on skin aging have focused on static conditions. However, in daily life, the facial skin we encounter is constantly in motion due to conversational expressions and changes in facial expressions, causing the skin to alter its position and shape, resulting in a dynamic state. Consequently, it is hypothesized that characteristics of aging not apparent in static conditions may be present in the dynamic state of the skin. Therefore, this study investigates age-related changes in dynamic skin characteristics associated with facial expression alterations.

METHODS

A motion capture system measured the dynamic characteristics (delay and stretchiness of skin movement associated with expression) of the cheek skin in response to facial expressions among 86 Japanese women aged between 20 and 69 years.

RESULTS

The findings revealed an increase in the delay of cheek skin response to facial expressions (r = 0.24, p < 0.05) and a decrease in the stretchiness of the lower cheek area with age (r = 0.60, p < 0.01). An increasing variance in delay and stretchiness within the same age group was also observed with aging.

CONCLUSION

The findings of this study revealed that skin aging encompasses both static characteristics, such as spots, wrinkles, and sagging, traditionally studied in aging research, and dynamic aging characteristics of the skin that emerge in response to facial expression changes. These dynamic aging characteristics could pave the way for the development of new methodologies in skin aging analysis and potentially improve our understanding and treatment of aging impressions that are visually perceptible in daily life but remain unexplored.

Photoprotection: Current developments and controversies

This review aimed at summarizing some of the key points that were discussed during the photoprotection session at the International Forum of Dermatology in 2022. This international conference was designed to address prominent topics of clinical dermatology in a holistic way, allowing to articulate multiple viewpoints. Therefore, this review does not claim to be exhaustive, but is instead intended to give an overview of recent developments and ongoing controversies in the field of photoprotection. Cumulative ultraviolet radiation (UVR) exposure is the major aetiological factor in the development of photoageing, photoimunosuppression and photocarcinogenesis. UVA (320-400 nm) penetrates into the dermis and damages DNA and other intracellular and acellular targets primarily by generating reactive oxygen species (ROS). It is the major contributor to photoageing, characterized by fine and coarse wrinkles, dyspigmentation and loss of elasticity. UVB (290-320 nm) is responsible for sunburns through direct damage to DNA by the formation of 6-4 cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPDs) and pyrimidine 6-4 pyrimidone photoproducts. Both UVA and UVB exposure increase the risk of basal cell carcinoma, squamous cell carcinoma and melanoma. In recent years, visible light (VL; 400-700 nm) has also been implicated in the exacerbation of conditions aggravated by sun exposure such as hyperpigmentation and melasma. Photoprotection is a critical health strategy to reduce the deleterious effects of UVR and VL. Comprehensive photoprotection strategies include staying in the shade when outdoors, wearing photoprotective clothing including a wide-brimmed hat, and sunglasses, and the use of sunscreen. Due to the absorption of UV filters, the safety of sunscreens has been questioned. Newer sunscreens are becoming available with filters with absorption even beyond the UV spectrum, offering enhanced protection compared with older products. Prevention of photocarcinogenesis, sun-induced or sunlight-exacerbated hyperpigmentary conditions and drug-induced photosensitivity is an important reason for adopting comprehensive photoprotection strategies.

Photoaging and actinic keratosis in Danish outdoor and indoor workers

BACKGROUND

The risk of photoaging and actinic keratosis caused by work related solar ultraviolet radiation exposure has not previously been investigated in Nordic countries. The objectives of this study were to describe the occurrence of photoaging, actinic keratosis, and keratinocyte cancer in a population of Danish outdoor and indoor workers, and investigate the association between these clinical findings and semi-objective measures of work related solar ultraviolet radiation exposure in the same population.

METHODS

A clinical cross-sectional study of the occurrence of facial wrinkles, actinic keratosis, keratinocyte cancer, and melanocytic nevi in a population of Danish outdoor and indoor workers and associations with semi-objective measures of work related solar ultraviolet radiation exposure based on a combination of dosimetry and self-report.

RESULTS

Work related solar ultraviolet radiation exposure was significantly positively associated with occurrence of facial wrinkles (α = 0.05). Actinic keratosis was associated to status as outdoor worker (OR = 4.272, CI [1.045-17.471]) and age (P < 0.001, CI [1.077-1.262]) and twice as common in outdoor workers (10.3% CI [0.05, 0.15]) compared to indoor workers (5.1% CI [0.00, 0.10]). Only two cases of keratinocyte cancer were diagnosed (<1%). Older age was negatively associated with occurrence of melanocytic nevi.

CONCLUSION

Outdoor work in Denmark is associated with increased occurrence of facial wrinkles and actinic keratosis from solar ultraviolet radiation exposure, thus justifying sun safety at Danish workplaces from a clinical perspective.

Seaweeds as Source of Bioactive Substances and Skin Care Therapy—Cosmeceuticals, Algotheraphy, and Thalassotherapy

Riverine, estuarine, and coastal populations have always used algae in the development of home remedies that were then used to treat diverse health problems. The empirical knowledge of various generations originated these applications, and their mechanism of action is, in most cases, unknown, that is, few more scientific studies would have been described beyond simple collection and ethnographic recording. Nevertheless, recent investigations, carried out with the purpose of analyzing the components and causes that alter the functioning and the balance of our organism, are already giving their first results. Water, and especially sea water is considered as essential to life on our planet. It sings all the substances necessary and conducive to the development of the living being (minerals, catalysts, vitamins, amino acids, etc.). Oceans cover over 70% of Earth, being home to up to 90% of the organisms in the planet. Many rich resources and unique environments are provided by the ocean. Additionally, bioactive compounds that multiple marine organisms have a great potential to produce can be used as nutraceuticals, pharmaceuticals, and cosmeceuticals. Both primary and secondary metabolites are produced by algae. The first ones are directly implicated in development, normal growth, or reproduction conditions to perform physiological functions. Stress conditions, like temperature changes, salinity, environmental pollutants, or UV radiation exposure cause the performance of secondary metabolites. In algae, proteins, polysaccharides, fatty acids, and amino acids are primary metabolites and phenolic compounds, pigments, vitamins, sterols, and other bioactive agents, all produced in algae tissues, are secondary metabolites. These algal active constituents have direct relevance in cosmetics.

Bioactive properties and potentials cosmeceutical applications of phlorotannins isolated from brown seaweeds: A review

Currently, natural ingredients are becoming more attractive for the industries such as functional food, nutraceuticals, cosmeceutical and pharmaceutical industries as people starting to believe naturally occurring compounds are safer to humans than artificial compounds. Seaweeds are one of the most interesting organisms found in oceans around the earth, which are carrying great ecological importance and contribute to increase the biodiversity of ecosystems where they were originated and habitat. Within last few decades, discovery of secondary metabolites with biological activities from seaweeds has been significantly increased. Further, the unique secondary metabolites isolated from seaweeds including polysaccharides, carotenoids and polyphenols possess range of bioactive properties that make them potential ingredient for many industrial applications. Among those groups of compounds phlorotannins isolated from brown seaweeds have shown interesting bioactive properties including anti-cancer, anti-inflammation, anti-oxidant, anti-allergic, anti-wrinkling and hair growth promotion properties. Moreover, these properties associated with phlorotannins make them an ideal compounds to use as a functional ingredient in cosmeceutical products. Up to now no report has been reviewed about discuss properties of phlorotannins related to the cosmeceutical application. In the present review primary attention is given to the collect scientific data published about bioactive properties of brown algal phlorotannins related to the cosmeceutical industry.

WITHDRAWN: Interventions for photodamaged skin

This review has been withdrawn because a review author contravenes Cochrane's Commercial Sponsorship Policy. This policy ensures the independence of Cochrane reviews by making sure that there is no bias associated with commercial conflicts of interest in the conduct of Cochrane reviews. The author was employed by the biopharmaceutical company AstraZeneca and cannot say with certainty that the company did not produce or have any financial interest in the interventions in this review.

The editorial group responsible for this previously published document have withdrawn it from publication.

Impact of near-infrared radiation in dermatology

Sunlight that reaches the human skin contains solar energy composed of 6.8% ultraviolet (UV), 38.9% visible light and 54.3% infrared radiation. In addition to natural near-infrared (NIR), human skin is increasingly exposed to artificial NIR from medical devices and electrical appliances. Thus, we are exposed to tremendous amounts of NIR. Many studies have proven the effects of UV exposure on human skin and skin cancers but have not investigated well the effects of NIR exposure. Furthermore, many of the previous NIR studies have used NIR resources without a water filter or a contact cooling. With these resources, a substantial amount of NIR energy is absorbed in the superficial layers and only limited NIR energy can be delivered to deeper tissues. Thus, they could not sufficiently evaluate the effects of incident solar NIR. In order to simulate solar NIR that reaches the skin, a water filter is essential because solar NIR is filtered by atmospheric water. In reality, NIR increases the surface temperature and induces thermal effects so a contact cooling is needed to pursue the properties of NIR. I clarify that NIR can penetrate the skin and non-thermally affect the subcutaneous tissues, including muscle and bone marrow, using a NIR resource with a water filter and a cooling system. I would like to emphasize the biological effects of NIR which have both merits and demerits. Appropriate NIR irradiation induces dermal heating thermally and non-thermally induces collagen and elastin stimulation, which results in skin tightening. NIR also induces non-thermal DNA damage of mitotic cells, which may have the potential application for treating cancer. However, as continuous NIR exposure may induce photoaging and potentially photocarcinogenesis, we should consider the effect of, not only UV, but also NIR and the necessity for protection against solar NIR. Here, this paper introduces the new aspects of the biological effects of NIR radiation.

The riddle of genuine skin microrelief and wrinkles

Wrinkles result from distinct structural changes occurring in specific parts of the dermis and subcutaneous tissue. There is a need for evidenced-based cosmetology identifying and quantifying the different aspects of wrinkling. Histology allows to detect specific changes associated with particular types of wrinkles. Four main types of wrinkles can thus be recognized, including the atrophic crinkling rhytids, the permanent elastotic creases, the dynamic expression lines, and the gravitational folds. Each type usually develops on specific skin regions exhibiting distinct microanatomical characteristics. Whereas skin microrelief, expression lines and skin folds appear clearly marked at the histological level, only little dermal changes are identified under other reducible or permanent wrinkles compared with the skin immediately adjacent to them. Distinguishing different types of wrinkles brings more precision to the clinical practice. This is of importance because the different types of wrinkles respond differently to cosmetic, dermatological and surgical treatments.

Photoprotective activity of propolis

The purpose of this study was to determine the photoprotective properties of propolis. The sun protection factor (SPF) of ethanol extract of propolis was evaluated by an in vitro method, using homosalate as control. This determination is based on the physical determination of the reduction of the energy in the UV range, through a film of product which has previously been spread on an adequate substrate. About 15 mg of O/W emulsion containing propolis at various concentrations were applied on roughened Polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA) plates and the transmission measurements were carried out using a spectrophotometer equipped with integrating sphere. The results may justify their use as a natural sunscreen agent.

[Photoaging of face]

The environment, especially solar irradiation, plays a major role in skin aging. In humans, cutaneous areas frequently exposed to solar radiations are subject to premature skin ageing (heliodermatitis) which has specific clinical and histological features distinct from those observed in photoprotected skin. Most of the cellular and molecular mechanisms implicated in chronologic aging are observed in both ultraviolet exposed and photoprotected skin and can be stimulated in vitro and in vivo by repeated ultraviolet exposures. This article reviews the epidemiological, clinical and histological characteristics of photoaging and summarizes the recent findings acquired in this field.

Comparison of age-related changes in facial wrinkles and sagging in the skin of Japanese, Chinese and Thai women

BACKGROUND

Differences in skin aging features between Asians and Caucasians are commonly known, whereas little is known about such differences in various Asian populations.

OBJECTIVE

A survey was carried out in Tokyo, Shanghai and Bangkok to identify specific features of skin aging in each population and to evaluate whether our conventional photo scale is an appropriate tool for this type of comparative study.

METHODS

Eighty-seven women residing in Tokyo, 100 women residing in Shanghai, and 90 women residing in Bangkok were examined by a specialist. Facial wrinkles (forehead, glabella, upper eyelid, crow's feet, lower eyelid, cheek, nasolabial groove and mouth corner) and cheek sagging were evaluated using photo scales previously obtained from Japanese subjects. Comparisons were made according to 10-year age groups.

RESULTS

Women in Bangkok showed the most severe level of wrinkles, followed by those in Shanghai in the three groups. Significant differences were observed between Thai and Japanese women in the intensity of wrinkles at many facial sites. Chinese women had significantly more severe wrinkles in the area around the eyes compared to Japanese women, while Thai women had significantly more severe wrinkles in the lower halves of their faces compared to Chinese women. In cheek sagging scores, significant differences were observed between Japanese and Thai women in their 30s and 50s, but not between Japanese and Chinese women or between Chinese and Thai women in all age groups.

CONCLUSION

These results indicate variations in skin aging features among women from three Asian cities thereby suggesting the diversity of Asian skin. Our scaling method proved to be appropriate for facial wrinkles, but required modification to compare cheek sagging among Asian populations.

Skin ageing: A comparison between Chinese and European populations

BACKGROUND

Although limited data are available, it is commonly considered that Europeans and Asians have different skin ageing features.

OBJECTIVES

The present studies have been carried out to evaluate the influence of age and sun-exposure on the main clinical signs of Asian skin ageing.

METHODS

One hundred and sixty Chinese and 160 French age-matched women (age range: 20-60 years old) were clinically examined and scored by the same dermatologist. Facial wrinkles (crow's-feet, glabella and perioral wrinkles) and pigmented spots (on face and hands) were assessed in situ and standardized photographs of the face were taken. Lifelong sun-exposure was estimated from answers to a questionnaire. Comparisons were made between 10-year age groups.

RESULTS

Results show that, for each facial skin area, wrinkle onset is delayed by about 10 years in Chinese women as compared to French women. Facial wrinkling rate over the years is linear in French women and not linear in Chinese women who appear to experience a fast ageing process between age 40 and 50. Pigmented spot intensity is a much more important ageing sign in Chinese women (severe for 30% of women over 40) than in French women (severe for less than 8% of women, irrespective of age).

CONCLUSION

These first results underline that main skin ageing features (wrinkles, spots) progress differently in the Chinese and French women we have studied. They require to be confirmed on broad multicentre studies involving larger cohorts.

Multiple senile lentigos of the face, a skin ageing pattern resulting from a life excess of intermittent sun exposure in dark-skinned caucasians: a case-control study

BACKGROUND

Different patterns of skin ageing can be described depending on the predominant lesions, i.e. wrinkles, laxity, atrophy, senile lentigos (SLs), etc. They may correspond to different epidemiological contexts.

OBJECTIVES

To identify and assess the epidemiological factors for a skin ageing pattern characterized by a high density of SLs on the face, or 'lentigo ageing pattern' (LAP).

METHODS

An age- and sex-matched case-control study was conducted in individuals aged between 60 and 80 years, comparing cases (n = 118) with a very high number of SLs on the face for their age, and controls (n = 118) with no or very few SLs for their age. The cases and controls were recruited in two hospitals.

RESULTS

In univariate and multivariate analysis, LAP was associated with skin types III and IV, with frequent sunburns, and with the part of the lifetime cumulative sun exposure which was received during vacations. Conversely, there was no link with the occupational and everyday exposures and the total cumulative exposure. LAP was associated with multiple solar lentigos of the upper back. No relationship was found with postmenopausal hormonal therapy, number of naevi, or freckles.

CONCLUSIONS

Different epidemiological factors may account for the different skin ageing patterns. LAP seems to develop preferentially in dark-skinned caucasians who have repeatedly received intermittent and intense sun irradiations throughout their life, and have often developed solar lentigos on the upper back earlier in life, whereas the 'prominent wrinkling' pattern is known to affect light-skinned people and smokers with a life excess of continuous exposure.

Interventions for photodamaged skin

BACKGROUND

Photodamage describes skin changes such as fine and coarse wrinkles, roughness, freckles and pigmentation changes that occur as a result of prolonged exposure to the sun. Many treatments are available to reverse the damage, but it is unclear which work and at what cost in terms of unwanted side effects.

OBJECTIVES

To assess the effects of topically applied treatments, tablet treatments, laser and surgical procedures for photodamaged skin.

SEARCH STRATEGY

We searched the Cochrane Central Register of Controlled Trials (CENTRAL) in The Cochrane Library, Issue 1 2002, MEDLINE (1966-June 2002), EMBASE (1974-June 2002), Health Periodicals (1976-June 2002). We checked references of articles and communicated with authors and the pharmaceutical industry.

SELECTION CRITERIA

Randomised controlled trials which compared drug or surgical interventions with no treatment, placebo or another drug, in adults with mild, moderate or severe photodamage of the face or forearms.

DATA COLLECTION AND ANALYSIS

Two reviewers independently extracted data and assessed trial quality.

MAIN RESULTS

Thirty studies of variable quality were included. Eight trials showed that topical tretinoin cream, in concentrations of 0.02% or higher, was superior to placebo for participants with mild to severe photodamage on the face and forearms (although losses to follow-up were relatively high in most studies). For example, the relative risk of improvement for 0.05% tretinoin cream, compared to placebo (three studies), at 24 weeks, was 1.73 (95% confidence interval 1.39 to 2.14). This effect was not seen for 0.001% topical tretinoin (one study) or 0.01% (three studies). A dose-response relationship was evident for both effectiveness and skin irritation. One small within-patient study showed benefit from topical ascorbic acid compared with placebo. Tazarotene (0.01% to 0.1%) and isotretinoin (0.1%) both showed significant improvement over placebo for moderate photodamage (one study each). There is limited evidence (one trial), to show that the effectiveness of 0.05% tretinoin, is equivalent to the effects of 0.05% and 0.1% tazarotene. One small study showed greater improvement in upper lip wrinkles with CO2 laser technique compared to Baker's phenol chemical peel, at 6 months. Three small RCTs comparing CO2 laser with dermabrasion found no difference in wrinkle score at 4 to 6 months, suggesting that both methods are equally efficacious, but more erythema was reported with the laser. The effectiveness of other interventions such as hydroxy acids and natural polysaccharides was not clear.

AUTHORS' CONCLUSIONS

There is conclusive evidence that topical tretinoin improves the appearance of mild to moderate photodamage on the face and forearms, in the short term. However erythema, scaling/dryness, burning/stinging and irritation may be experienced initially. There is limited evidence that tazarotene and isotretinoin benefit patients with moderate photodamage on the face: both are associated with skin irritation and erythema. The effectiveness of other interventions remains uncertain.

Le rajeunissement du visage : techniques de complément ou de substitution à la chirurgie. Apport des lasers et systèmes à effets thermiques

The methods additional or substitution for the surgery of facial skin ageing are dramatically rising before 40 years. These methods are addressed more to the wrinkles and others signs of aging skin. They can constitute a door of entry in the aesthetic treatments and needs a professional approach. These noninvasive methods (within the meaning of the incision) can present complications this the more so as the tendency is with the vulgarizing and with under considerations of the initial diagnosis and the treatment itself. The devices of thermal effects consist of lasers, pulsed flashlamps and radiofrequency. The objective of this development is to consider the bonds, which link the initial diagnosis and the proposal for a treatment by considering side effects and complications of each method.

From skin microrelief to wrinkles. An area ripe for investigation

Skin microrelief alters progressively with age. Wrinkles do not result from these changes but are superimposed upon them. Wrinkles result from structural changes in the epidermis, dermis and hypodermis. Four types of wrinkles can be recognized. Type 1 wrinkles are atrophic. Type 2 wrinkles are elastotic. Type 3 wrinkles are expressional. Type 4 wrinkles are gravitational. Each type of wrinkle is characterized by distinct microanatomical changes and each type of wrinkle develops in specific skin regions. Each is likely to respond differently to treatment. Skin microrelief and skin folds can be identified on histological examination. By contrast, only minimal dermal changes are found beneath permanent or reducible wrinkles compared with immediately adjacent skin. A series of objective and non-invasive methods is available to quantify the severity of wrinkling.

Quantitative evaluation of skin condition in an epidemiological survey of females living in northern versus southern Japan

Image analysis and biophysical methods were used to compare the skin condition of a group of females ranging in age from 5 to 65 years who had lived all of their lives in either Kagoshima (n=300), located in southern Japan, or Akita (n=302), located in northern Japan. Kagoshima annually receives approximately 1.5 times more solar UVB radiation than Akita. The methods used and corresponding skin parameters reported in this survey were: high resolution digital imaging followed by computer analysis of facial images for facial skin wrinkling and hyperpigmentation; silicone skin replicas followed by Moiré interferometry for facial skin surface roughness (texture); the Minolta Chromameter for skin color (L*a*b*) on sun-exposed (forehead) and sun-protected (upper inner arm) skin sites; the Corneometer for skin capacitance (hydration) on the cheek and ventral forearm; the Sebumeter for sebum excretion rate on the forehead; and the Minolta Spot Thermometer for skin temperature on the upper cheek. Compared with Japanese women living in Akita, Japanese women living in Kagoshima had significantly longer facial wrinkles, higher number of wrinkles, larger hyperpigmented spots, higher number of spots, rougher facial skin texture, more yellow foreheads and upper inner arms, darker foreheads, and less stratum corneum hydration in the cheeks and arms. When compared on an age-for-age basis, the average 40-year-old Kagoshima women has the same level of facial wrinkling as a 48-year-old Akita women, a delay of 8 years for living in the northern latitude. For facial hyperpigmentation, the delay is 16 years; the average 40-year-old Kagoshima women has the same level of facial hyperpigmentation as a 56-year-old Akita women. The results further testify to the skin damaging effects of sun exposure and may be useful in public health education to promote everyday sun protection.