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Terrien E, Huet B, Iachkine P, Saury J. Documenting and analyzing pre-reflective self-consciousness underlying ongoing performance optimization in elite athletes: the theoretical and methodological approach of the course-of-experience framework. Front Psychol 2024; 15:1382892. [PMID: 38984274 PMCID: PMC11231638 DOI: 10.3389/fpsyg.2024.1382892] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 02/06/2024] [Accepted: 06/12/2024] [Indexed: 07/11/2024] Open
Abstract
Traditional theories of motor learning emphasize the automaticity of skillful actions. However, recent research has emphasized the role of pre-reflective self-consciousness accompanying skillful action execution. In the present paper, we present the course-of-experience framework as a means of studying elite athletes' pre-reflective self-consciousness in the unfolding activity of performance optimization. We carried out a synthetic presentation of the ontological and epistemological foundation of this framework. Then we illustrated the methodology by an in-depth analysis of two elite windsurfers' courses of experience. The analysis of global and local characteristics of the riders' courses of experience reveal (a) the meaningful activities accompanying the experience of ongoing performance optimization; (b) the multidimensionality of attentional foci and the normativity of performance self-assessment; and (c) a micro-scale phenomenological description of continuous improvement. These results highlight the fruitfulness of the course-of-experience framework to describe the experience of being absorbed in an activity of performance optimization.
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Affiliation(s)
- Eric Terrien
- Institut des Sciences du Sport, Faculté des Sciences Sociales et Politiques, Université de Lausanne, Lausanne, Switzerland
| | - Benoît Huet
- Nantes Université, Movement - Interactions - Performance, MIP, Nantes, France
| | - Paul Iachkine
- Ecole Nationale de Voile et des Sports Nautiques, Beg Rohu, Saint Pierre-Quiberon, France
| | - Jacques Saury
- Nantes Université, Movement - Interactions - Performance, MIP, Nantes, France
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Gesbert V, Hauw D, Kempf A, Blauth A, Schiavio A. Creative Togetherness. A Joint-Methods Analysis of Collaborative Artistic Performance. Front Psychol 2022; 13:835340. [PMID: 35418914 PMCID: PMC8996380 DOI: 10.3389/fpsyg.2022.835340] [Citation(s) in RCA: 4] [Impact Index Per Article: 2.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 12/14/2021] [Accepted: 02/18/2022] [Indexed: 02/04/2023] Open
Abstract
In the present study, we combined first-, second-, and third-person levels of analysis to explore the feeling of being and acting together in the context of collaborative artistic performance. Following participation in an international competition held in Czech Republic in 2018, a team of ten artistic swimmers took part in the study. First, a self-assessment instrument was administered to rate the different aspects of togetherness emerging from their collective activity; second, interviews based on video recordings of their performance were conducted individually with all team members; and third, the performance was evaluated by external artistic swimming experts. By combining these levels of analysis in different ways, we explore how changes in togetherness and lived experience in individual behavior may shape, disrupt, and (re-)stabilize joint performance. Our findings suggest that the experience of being and acting together is transient and changing, often alternating phases of decrease and increase in felt togetherness that can be consistently recognized by swimmers and external raters.
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Affiliation(s)
| | - Denis Hauw
- Institute of Sport Sciences, Faculty of Social and Political Sciences, University of Lausanne, Lausanne, Switzerland
| | - Adrian Kempf
- Center for Systematic Musicology, University of Graz, Graz, Austria
| | - Alison Blauth
- Artistic Swimming Swiss National Federation, Lausanne, Switzerland
| | - Andrea Schiavio
- Center for Systematic Musicology, University of Graz, Graz, Austria
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Avilés C, Navia JA, Ruiz-Pérez LM, Zapatero-Ayuso JA. How Enaction and Ecological Approaches Can Contribute to Sports and Skill Learning. Front Psychol 2020; 11:523691. [PMID: 33192764 PMCID: PMC7644965 DOI: 10.3389/fpsyg.2020.523691] [Citation(s) in RCA: 1] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.3] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 12/30/2019] [Accepted: 08/26/2020] [Indexed: 11/13/2022] Open
Abstract
The purpose of this paper is to explain learning in sports and physical education (PE) from the perspective of enactive and ecological psychology. The learning process is first presented from the enactive perspective, and some relevant notions such as sense-making and sensorimotor schemes are developed. Then, natural learning environments are described, and their importance in the human development process is explained. This is followed by a section devoted to the learner's experience in which some research methods are explained, such as neurophenomenology, in addition to self-confrontation, interviews aimed at bringing out the meaning, sensations, and emotions that performers experience when they are immersed in their sport or a PE class. The sections on the ecological approach deal with the attunement, calibration, the education of intention, and the importance of representative experimental designs. The last section addresses the main similarities and differences between the two approaches. Finally, we state our theoretical position in favor of a common project that brings together the main elements of both post-cognitive approaches.
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Affiliation(s)
- Carlos Avilés
- Department of Languages, Arts and Physical Education, Faculty of Education, Complutense University of Madrid, Madrid, Spain
| | - José A Navia
- Departamento de Ciencias Sociales, de la Actividad Física y del Ocio, Facultad de Ciencias de la Actividad Física y del Deporte, Universidad Politécnica de Madrid, Madrid, Spain
| | - Luis-Miguel Ruiz-Pérez
- Departamento de Ciencias Sociales, de la Actividad Física y del Ocio, Facultad de Ciencias de la Actividad Física y del Deporte, Universidad Politécnica de Madrid, Madrid, Spain
| | - Jorge A Zapatero-Ayuso
- Department of Languages, Arts and Physical Education, Faculty of Education, Complutense University of Madrid, Madrid, Spain
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Rochat N, Hacques G, Ganière C, Seifert L, Hauw D, Iodice P, Adé D. Dynamics of Experience in a Learning Protocol: A Case Study in Climbing. Front Psychol 2020; 11:249. [PMID: 32153467 PMCID: PMC7044343 DOI: 10.3389/fpsyg.2020.00249] [Citation(s) in RCA: 6] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.5] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 08/05/2019] [Accepted: 02/03/2020] [Indexed: 11/22/2022] Open
Abstract
Many of the studies on motor learning have investigated the dynamics of learning behaviors and shown that the learning process is non-linear, self-organized, and situated. Aligned with this research trend, studies within the enactive paradigm focus on learners’ lived experience to understand how it shapes their intentions, actions, and perceptions. Thus, a joint analysis of experiential and behavioral assessments might help to explain the dynamics of learning (e.g., the transition between stable states). The aim of this case study was to analyze the dynamics of a beginner climber’s lived experience as his performance progressed (i.e., climbing fluency) during a learning protocol. The protocol comprised 10 climbing sessions over 5 weeks. During the sessions, the climber had to climb a “control route” (CR) (i.e., a route that never changed) and “variants” (i.e., novel routes, in which the spatial layout of the holds was modified). Phenomenological data were collected with self-confrontation interviews after each session. From the verbalizations, a thematic analysis of the climber’s intentions, actions, and perceptions was performed to detect the general dimensions of his experience. The behavioral data (the climber’s performance) were assessed using four indicators of climbing fluency: climbing time (CT), immobility ratio (IR), geometric index of entropy (GIE) of the hip trajectory, and the jerk. Our results highlighted the dynamics of the climber’s lived experience and performances in the unchanged and novel environments. The dynamics on the CR were characterized by four crucial episodes and the dynamics on the variants, by four ways of experiencing novelty. Our results are discussed around three points: (i) the climber’s definition of his enacted fluency in terms of intentions, actions, and perceptions; (ii) how the definition was identified through a dynamic phenomenological synthesis; and (iii) three effects that characterize the dynamics: challenge, metaphor, and a refinement in perceptions.
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Affiliation(s)
- Nadège Rochat
- Center for the Study and the Transformation of Physical Activities, Faculty of Sport Sciences, University of Rouen Normandie, Rouen, France
| | - Guillaume Hacques
- Center for the Study and the Transformation of Physical Activities, Faculty of Sport Sciences, University of Rouen Normandie, Rouen, France
| | - Caroline Ganière
- Center for the Study and the Transformation of Physical Activities, Faculty of Sport Sciences, University of Rouen Normandie, Rouen, France
| | - Ludovic Seifert
- Center for the Study and the Transformation of Physical Activities, Faculty of Sport Sciences, University of Rouen Normandie, Rouen, France
| | - Denis Hauw
- Institute of Sport Sciences of the University of Lausanne, Lausanne, Switzerland
| | - Pierpaolo Iodice
- Center for the Study and the Transformation of Physical Activities, Faculty of Sport Sciences, University of Rouen Normandie, Rouen, France
| | - David Adé
- Center for the Study and the Transformation of Physical Activities, Faculty of Sport Sciences, University of Rouen Normandie, Rouen, France
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Rochat N, Seifert L, Guignard B, Hauw D. An enactive approach to appropriation in the instrumented activity of trail running. Cogn Process 2019; 20:459-477. [PMID: 31154575 DOI: 10.1007/s10339-019-00921-2] [Citation(s) in RCA: 9] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.8] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 08/31/2018] [Accepted: 05/16/2019] [Indexed: 11/30/2022]
Abstract
The incorporation of external tools during a sports activity can be analyzed through the dynamics of appropriation. In this study, we assumed that appropriation could be documented at both the phenomenological and behavioral scales and aimed to characterize trail runners' interactions with five carrying systems (i.e., backpacks proposing different ways of carrying water) in an ecological setting. The runners ran a 3-km trail running loop, equipped with inertial sensors to quantify both their vertical oscillations and those of the carrying systems. After the trials, phenomenological data were collected in enactive interviews. Results showed that (1) the runners encountered issues related to the carrying system, whose emergence in their experiences while running revealed the interplay between the tool's transparency (i.e., when runners provided no account of the carrying system) and opacity (i.e., when runners mentioned perceptions of disturbing system elements), and (2) when the runners carried the water bottles on the pectoral straps, they felt the system bouncing in an uncomfortable way, especially in the less technical parts of the route. We therefore investigated the low- and high-order parameters of coordination by computing the vertical accelerations and the acceleration couplings between the carrying system and the runners in order to identify coordination modes. The congruence between the runners' experiences and the behavioral data was noted in terms of (1) the system's vertical oscillations (i.e., low-order parameters) and (2) the couplings between the accelerations of the runners and the backpacks (i.e., high-order parameters). Our results demonstrated that the appropriation process was shaped by the interactions between the runners' activity, the environment and the physical properties of the tool. These interactions occurred in fluctuating phases where the runners perceived the carrying systems as more or less incorporated. Our results highlighted how tool incorporation is revealed through changes in its transparency/opacity in the actor's activity.
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Affiliation(s)
- Nadège Rochat
- CETAPS Laboratory - EA 3832, Faculty of Sports Sciences, University of Rouen Normandy, Mont Saint Aignan, France. .,Centre de Recherche en Psychologie de la Santé, du Sport et du Vieillissement (PHASE), Institute of Sport Sciences of the University of Lausanne (ISSUL), Lausanne, Switzerland. .,Raidlight-Vertical SAS, Saint-Pierre-de-Chartreuse, France.
| | - Ludovic Seifert
- CETAPS Laboratory - EA 3832, Faculty of Sports Sciences, University of Rouen Normandy, Mont Saint Aignan, France
| | - Brice Guignard
- CETAPS Laboratory - EA 3832, Faculty of Sports Sciences, University of Rouen Normandy, Mont Saint Aignan, France
| | - Denis Hauw
- Centre de Recherche en Psychologie de la Santé, du Sport et du Vieillissement (PHASE), Institute of Sport Sciences of the University of Lausanne (ISSUL), Lausanne, Switzerland
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Rochat N, Gesbert V, Seifert L, Hauw D. Enacting Phenomenological Gestalts in Ultra-Trail Running: An Inductive Analysis of Trail Runners' Courses of Experience. Front Psychol 2018; 9:2038. [PMID: 30416469 PMCID: PMC6213919 DOI: 10.3389/fpsyg.2018.02038] [Citation(s) in RCA: 21] [Impact Index Per Article: 3.5] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 06/19/2018] [Accepted: 10/03/2018] [Indexed: 11/13/2022] Open
Abstract
Using an enactive approach to trail runners' activity, this study sought to identify and characterize runners' phenomenological gestalts, which are forms of experience that synthesize the heterogeneous sensorimotor, cognitive and emotional information that emerges in race situations. By an in-depth examination of their meaningful experiences, we were able to highlight the different typologies of interactions between bodily processes (e.g., sensations and pains), behaviors (e.g., actions and strategies), and environment (e.g., meteorological conditions and route profile). Ten non-professional runners who ran an ultra-trail running race (330 km, 24,000 m of elevation gain) volunteered to participate in the study. Data were collected in two steps: (1) collection of past activity traces (i.e., race maps, field notes, and self-assessment scales) and (2) enactive interviews using the past activity traces in which the runners were invited to relive their experience and describe their activity. The enactive interviews were coded using the course-of-experience methodology to identify the phenomenological gestalts that emerged from activity and scaffolded the runners' courses of experience. The results revealed that runners typically enact three phenomenological gestalts: controlling global ease, enduring general fatigue and experiencing difficult situations, and feeling freedom in the running pace. These phenomenological gestalts were made up of specific behaviors, involvements, and meaningful situated elements that portrayed various ways of achieving an ultra-endurance performance in the race situation. They also highlighted how runners enact a meaningful world by acting in relation to the fluctuations in physical sensations and environmental conditions during an ultra-trail race. Practical applications for preparation, race management and sports psychology interventions are proposed to enrich the existing recommendations. In conclusion, this approach provides new research perspectives by offering a more holistic grasp of activity in trail running through an in-depth analysis of athletes' experience. In doing so, we may expect that runners can connect these typical gestalts to their own personal experiences and stories as trail runners in order to sustain a viable approach to their sport.
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Affiliation(s)
- Nadège Rochat
- Center for the Study and the Transformation of Physical Activities (CETAPS EA 3832), Faculty of Sport Sciences, University of Rouen Normandy, Mont-Saint-Aignan, France.,Centre de Recherche en Psychologie de la Santé, du Sport et du Vieillissement (PHASE), Institute of Sport Sciences of the University of Lausanne (ISSUL), Lausanne, Switzerland.,Raidlight-Vertical Outdoor Lab Company, Saint-Pierre-de-Chartreuse, France
| | - Vincent Gesbert
- Centre de Recherche en Psychologie de la Santé, du Sport et du Vieillissement (PHASE), Institute of Sport Sciences of the University of Lausanne (ISSUL), Lausanne, Switzerland
| | - Ludovic Seifert
- Center for the Study and the Transformation of Physical Activities (CETAPS EA 3832), Faculty of Sport Sciences, University of Rouen Normandy, Mont-Saint-Aignan, France
| | - Denis Hauw
- Centre de Recherche en Psychologie de la Santé, du Sport et du Vieillissement (PHASE), Institute of Sport Sciences of the University of Lausanne (ISSUL), Lausanne, Switzerland
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Rochat N, Hauw D, Antonini Philippe R, Crettaz von Roten F, Seifert L. Comparison of vitality states of finishers and withdrawers in trail running: An enactive and phenomenological perspective. PLoS One 2017; 12:e0173667. [PMID: 28282421 PMCID: PMC5345849 DOI: 10.1371/journal.pone.0173667] [Citation(s) in RCA: 23] [Impact Index Per Article: 3.3] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [MESH Headings] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 05/02/2016] [Accepted: 02/26/2017] [Indexed: 12/04/2022] Open
Abstract
Studies on ultra-endurance suggest that during the races, athletes typically experience three vitality states (i.e., preservation, loss, and revival) at the phenomenological level. Nevertheless, how these states contribute to the management and outcome of performance remains unclear. The aim of this study was to determine whether and how the vitality states experienced by runners and their evolution during a trail race can be used to distinguish finishers from withdrawers. From an enactive and phenomenological framework, we processed enactive interviews and blog posts of race narratives. We distinguished units of meaning, which were grouped into sequences of experience; each sequence was then categorized as one of the three vitality states: state of vitality preservation (SVP), state of vitality loss (SVL) or state of vitality revival (SVR). We analyzed the distribution of these vitality states and their temporal organization at the beginning, in the second and third quarters, and at the end of the races, and we qualitatively characterized runners’ adaptations to SVL. Results showed that finishers completed the race in SVP, with overall significantly more sequences in SVP and significantly fewer sequences in SVL than withdrawers. SVR did not discriminate finishers from withdrawers. The temporal organization of the vitality states showed a significant difference in the emergence of SVP from the second quarter of the race, as well as a significant difference in the emergence of SVL from the third quarter of the race. The analysis of adaptations to SVL confirmed that finishers were more capable of exiting SVL by enacting a preservation world when they felt physical or psychological alerts, whereas withdrawers remained in SVL. Our results showed that finishers and withdrawers did not enact the same phenomenological worlds in the race situation, especially in the organization of vitality adaptations and their relationships to difficulties; the cumulative effect of the succession of experienced vitality states differed, as well.
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Affiliation(s)
- Nadège Rochat
- Institute of Sport Sciences, University of Lausanne, Lausanne, Switzerland
- Raidlight-Vertical SAS Outdoor Lab, Saint-Pierre-de-Chartreuse, France
- CETAPS Laboratory—EA 3832, Faculty of Sports Sciences, University of Rouen, Rouen, France
- * E-mail:
| | - Denis Hauw
- Institute of Sport Sciences, University of Lausanne, Lausanne, Switzerland
| | | | | | - Ludovic Seifert
- CETAPS Laboratory—EA 3832, Faculty of Sports Sciences, University of Rouen, Rouen, France
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Seifert L, Lardy J, Bourbousson J, Adé D, Nordez A, Thouvarecq R, Saury J. Interpersonal Coordination and Individual Organization Combined with Shared Phenomenological Experience in Rowing Performance: Two Case Studies. Front Psychol 2017; 8:75. [PMID: 28194127 PMCID: PMC5278567 DOI: 10.3389/fpsyg.2017.00075] [Citation(s) in RCA: 14] [Impact Index Per Article: 2.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 07/23/2016] [Accepted: 01/12/2017] [Indexed: 11/13/2022] Open
Abstract
The principal aim of this study was to examine the impact of variability in interpersonal coordination and individual organization on rowing performance. The second aim was to analyze crew phenomenology in order to understand how rowers experience their joint actions when coping with constraints emerging from the race. We conducted a descriptive and exploratory study of two coxless pair crews during a 3000-m rowing race against the clock. As the investigation was performed in an ecological context, we postulated that our understanding of the behavioral dynamics of interpersonal coordination and individual organization and the variability in performance would be enriched through the analysis of crew phenomenology. The behavioral dynamics of individual organization were assessed at kinematic and kinetic levels, and interpersonal coordination was examined by computing the relative phase between oar angles and oar forces and the difference in the oar force impulse of the two rowers. The inter-cycle variability of the behavioral dynamics of one international and one national crew was evaluated by computing the root mean square and the Cauchy index. Inter-cycle variability was considered significantly high when the behavioral and performance data for each cycle were outside of the confidence interval. Crew phenomenology was characterized on the basis of self-confrontation interviews and the rowers' concerns were then analyzed according to course-of-action methodology to identify the shared experiences. Our findings showed that greater behavioral variability could be either “perturbing” or “functional” depending on its impact on performance (boat velocity); the rowers experienced it as sometimes meaningful and sometimes meaningless; and their experiences were similar or diverging. By combining phenomenological and behavioral data, we explain how constraints not manipulated by an experimenter but emerging from the ecological context of a race can be associated with functional adaptations or perturbations of the interpersonal coordination.
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Affiliation(s)
- Ludovic Seifert
- Centre d'Etudes des Transformations des Activités Physiques et Sportives (CETAPS) - EA 3832, University of Rouen Normandy Mont Saint Aignan, France
| | - Julien Lardy
- Laboratory "Movement, Interactions, Performance" (EA 4334), Faculty of Sport Sciences, University of Nantes Nantes, France
| | - Jérôme Bourbousson
- Laboratory "Movement, Interactions, Performance" (EA 4334), Faculty of Sport Sciences, University of Nantes Nantes, France
| | - David Adé
- Centre d'Etudes des Transformations des Activités Physiques et Sportives (CETAPS) - EA 3832, University of Rouen Normandy Mont Saint Aignan, France
| | - Antoine Nordez
- Laboratory "Movement, Interactions, Performance" (EA 4334), Faculty of Sport Sciences, University of Nantes Nantes, France
| | - Régis Thouvarecq
- Centre d'Etudes des Transformations des Activités Physiques et Sportives (CETAPS) - EA 3832, University of Rouen Normandy Mont Saint Aignan, France
| | - Jacques Saury
- Laboratory "Movement, Interactions, Performance" (EA 4334), Faculty of Sport Sciences, University of Nantes Nantes, France
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R'Kiouak M, Saury J, Durand M, Bourbousson J. Joint Action of a Pair of Rowers in a Race: Shared Experiences of Effectiveness Are Shaped by Interpersonal Mechanical States. Front Psychol 2016; 7:720. [PMID: 27242628 PMCID: PMC4870391 DOI: 10.3389/fpsyg.2016.00720] [Citation(s) in RCA: 13] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.6] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 12/12/2015] [Accepted: 04/28/2016] [Indexed: 11/13/2022] Open
Abstract
The purpose of this study was to understand how a single pair of expert individual rowers experienced their crew functioning in natural conditions when asked to practice a joint movement for the first time. To fulfill this objective, we conducted a field study of interpersonal coordination that combined phenomenological and mechanical data from a coxless pair activity, to analyze the dynamics of the (inter)subjective experience compared with the dynamics of the team coordination. Using an enactivist approach to social couplings, these heterogeneous data were combined to explore the salience (and accuracy) of individuals' shared experiences of their joint action. First, we determined how each rower experienced the continuous crew functioning states (e.g., feelings of the boat's glide). Second, the phenomenological data helped us to build several categories of oar strokes (i.e., cycles), experienced by the rowers as either detrimentally or effectively performed strokes. Third, the mechanical signatures that correlated with each phenomenological category were tracked at various level of organization (i.e., individual-, interpersonal-, and boat-levels). The results indicated that (a) the two rowers did not pay attention to their joint action during most of the cycles, (b) some cycles were simultaneously lived as a salient, meaningful experience of either a detrimental (n = 15 cycles) or an effective (n = 18 cycles) joint action, and (c) the mechanical signatures diverged across the delineated phenomenological categories, suggesting that the way in which the cycles were experienced emerged from the variance in some mechanical parameters (i.e., differences in peak force level and mean force). Notably, the mechanical measures that helped to explain differences within the phenomenological categories were found at the interpersonal level of analysis, thus suggesting an intentional inter-personal mode of regulation of their joint action. This result is further challenged and discussed in light of extra-personal regulation processes that might concurrently explain why participants did not make an extensive salient experience of their joint action. We conclude that attempts to combine phenomenological and mechanical data should be pursued to continue the research on how individuals regulate the effectiveness of their joint actions' dynamics.
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Affiliation(s)
- Mehdi R'Kiouak
- "Movement, Interactions, Performance" Laboratory (EA4334), University of Nantes Nantes, France
| | - Jacques Saury
- "Movement, Interactions, Performance" Laboratory (EA4334), University of Nantes Nantes, France
| | | | - Jérôme Bourbousson
- "Movement, Interactions, Performance" Laboratory (EA4334), University of Nantes Nantes, France
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Seifert L, Wattebled L, Herault R, Poizat G, Adé D, Gal-Petitfaux N, Davids K. Neurobiological degeneracy and affordance perception support functional intra-individual variability of inter-limb coordination during ice climbing. PLoS One 2014; 9:e89865. [PMID: 24587084 PMCID: PMC3933688 DOI: 10.1371/journal.pone.0089865] [Citation(s) in RCA: 51] [Impact Index Per Article: 5.1] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 09/19/2013] [Accepted: 01/27/2014] [Indexed: 11/23/2022] Open
Abstract
This study investigated the functional intra-individual movement variability of ice climbers differing in skill level to understand how icefall properties were used by participants as affordances to adapt inter-limb coordination patterns during performance. Seven expert climbers and seven beginners were observed as they climbed a 30 m icefall. Movement and positioning of the left and right hand ice tools, crampons and the climber’s pelvis over the first 20 m of the climb were recorded and digitized using video footage from a camera (25 Hz) located perpendicular to the plane of the icefall. Inter-limb coordination, frequency and types of action and vertical axis pelvis displacement exhibited by each climber were analysed for the first five minutes of ascent. Participant perception of climbing affordances was assessed through: (i) calculating the ratio between exploratory movements and performed actions, and (ii), identifying, by self-confrontation interviews, the perceptual variables of environmental properties, which were significant to climbers for their actions. Data revealed that experts used a wider range of upper and lower limb coordination patterns, resulting in the emergence of different types of action and fewer exploratory movements, suggesting that effective holes in the icefall provided affordances to regulate performance. In contrast, beginners displayed lower levels of functional intra-individual variability of motor organization, due to repetitive swinging of ice tools and kicking of crampons to achieve and maintain a deep anchorage, suggesting lack of perceptual attunement and calibration to environmental properties to support climbing performance.
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Affiliation(s)
- Ludovic Seifert
- CETAPS Laboratory - EA 3832, Faculty of Sports Sciences, University of Rouen, Rouen, France
- * E-mail:
| | - Léo Wattebled
- CETAPS Laboratory - EA 3832, Faculty of Sports Sciences, University of Rouen, Rouen, France
| | - Romain Herault
- LITIS Laboratory - EA 4108, National Institute of Applied Sciences (INSA), Rouen, France
| | - Germain Poizat
- Faculty of Psychology and Educational Sciences, Department of Adult Education, University of Geneva, Geneva, Switzerland
| | - David Adé
- CETAPS Laboratory - EA 3832, Faculty of Sports Sciences, University of Rouen, Rouen, France
| | - Nathalie Gal-Petitfaux
- ACTÉ Laboratory - EA 4281, Faculty of Sports Sciences, University of Clermont-Ferrand 2, Clermont-Ferrand, France
| | - Keith Davids
- Centre for Sports Engineering Research, Sheffield Hallam University, Sheffield, South Yorkshire, United Kingdom
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