Natural Oils Affect the Human Skin Integrity and the Percutaneous Penetration of Benzoic Acid Dose-Dependently

Physicochemical properties and fatty acid profile of oil extracted from black soldier fly larvae (Hermetia illucens)

Background and Aim

Hermetia illucens, a black soldier fly, is widely recognized for sustainable recycling of organic waste. Black soldier fly larvae (BSFLs) can consume various types of biowastes and convert them into nutrient-rich biomass, including proteins, lipids, chitin, and minerals. This study investigated the best extraction method by comparing the fatty acid profiles, percentage yield, and antioxidant properties of BSFL oil extracted using different extraction methods.

Materials and Methods

The physicochemical properties, fatty acid profile, and free radical scavenging ability of BSFL oil were analyzed using six extraction methods.

Results

Ultrasonic extraction with hexane resulted in the highest yields compared with different extraction methods. Lauric acid (28%-37%) was the most abundant fatty acid in all extracts, followed by palmitic acid, myristic acid, oleic acid, and linoleic acid. Compared with other methods, aqueous extraction showed the highest lauric acid composition and free radical scavenging activities. In addition, high-temperature aqueous extraction resulted in higher oil yield and free radical scavenging activities than low-temperature extraction.

Conclusion

High-temperature aqueous extraction is the best extraction method because it is rich in lauric acid, has antioxidant ability, and can be further developed to produce novel sustainable biomaterials for humans and animals.

Amended Safety Assessment of Mentha piperita (Peppermint)-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) reviewed the safety of M piperita (peppermint)-derived ingredients. The Panel reviewed data relevant to the safety of these ingredients. Because final product formulations may contain multiple botanicals, each containing the same constituent(s) of concern, formulators are advised to be aware of these constituents and avoid reaching levels that may be hazardous to consumers. Industry should continue to use good manufacturing practices to limit impurities that could be present in botanical ingredients. The Panel concluded that M piperita (Peppermint) Oil, Extract, Leaf, and leaf-derived ingredients are safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration when formulated to be non-sensitizing, and that the available data are insufficient for determining that M piperita (Peppermint) Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, M piperita (Peppermint) Flower/Leaf/Stem Water, and M piperita (Peppermint) Meristem Cell Culture are safe under the intended conditions of use in cosmetic formulations.

The enhancing effect and promoting mechanisms of the stereoisomeric monoterpene alcohol esters as enhancers for drugs with different physicochemical properties

To explore the structure-activity connections of amphiphilic permeation enhancers containing the length of the hydrophobic chains as well as the properties of the polar head, O-acylgeraniol and O-acylnerol derivatives were synthesized from geraniol/nerol (cis-isomer of geraniol) and pharmaceutical excipient acids in this research. Their promotion of the percutaneous absorption of three drugs as the model, flurbiprofen (FP), isosorbide dinitrate (ISDN) and donepezil (DNP), which were selected based on their physicochemical properties, was tested by in vitro skin penetration and in vivo. Molecular simulation, ATR-FTIR, CLSM and histological observation were implement to evaluate the mode of action of the enhancers. The results indicated that (E)-3,7-dimethyl-2,6-octadien-1-yl tetradecanoate (GER-C14, trans-) achieved the highest enhancement ability for the three drugs; additionally, the in vivo results obtained were in good correlation with the in vitro data. Molecular docking results suggested that enhancers loosen the hydrogen bonds between ceramides, and the results of molecular simulation indicated that GER-C14, NER-C14 could insert into the middle of the lipid bilayer to form an independent phase. According to ATR-FTIR and histological evaluation, the enhancers extracted lipids and influenced the protein region, thereby disturbing the skin array. In addition, CLSM described the dynamic effects of enhancers on lipids between stratum corneum (SC) cells. In conclusion, GER-C14 had a better penetration promotion effect, which broadened our understanding of stereoisomeric penetration enhancers.

Characterizing the Mechanism of Action of Essential Oils on Skin Homeostasis—Data from Sonographic Imaging, Epidermal Water Dynamics, and Skin Biomechanics

Essential oils (EOs) have been recognized as materials of interest for dermatological applications, although some doubts remain regarding their safety and efficacy. We studied the action mechanisms of EOs from lavender and sage in human skin. Extracted EOs were incorporated (at 5% and 10%) in almond oil as a vehicle. Eleven healthy volunteers were selected and the prepared oils were tested on both forearms. All procedures respected the principles of good clinical practice. Effects were followed through high resolution sonography (HRS), epidermal water dynamics, and biomechanics. All variables were measured before and 30 min after application. Nonparametric statistical comparisons were applied (p < 0.05). HRS revealed a more echogenic epidermis, with a significant echogenicity decrease in the dermis (higher water retention) for all formulations. Significant TEWL decrease and an increase in superficial and deep epidermal hydration were also observed. These results indicate that EOs penetrate only into the most superficial layers of the skin, which is important for their safety profile. Furthermore, this “filmogenic” mechanism improving the epidermal water balance seems to connect directly with the observed biomechanical enhancement. These results confirm the clinical relevance of these compounds, in particular to restore the epidermal water content and prevent xerosis and other related disorders in sensitive (atopic, elderly) patients.

Nanostructured lipid carriers containing chitosan or sodium alginate for co-encapsulation of antioxidants and an antimicrobial agent for potential application in wound healing

The high incidence and costs of chronic wounds in the elderly have motivated the search for innovations to improve product performance and the healing process while reducing costs. In this study, bioadhesive nanostructured lipid carriers (NLC) were developed for the co-encapsulation of compounds with antioxidant (α-tocopherol and quercetin) and antimicrobial (tea tree oil) activity for management of wounds. The NLC was produced with shea butter and argan oil, and modified with sodium alginate or chitosan to confer bioadhesive properties. Spherical nanoparticles of ~307-330 nm and zeta potential varying from -21.2 to +11.8 mV were obtained. Thermal analysis demonstrated that the lipid matrix reduced tea tree oil thermal loss (~1.8-fold). Regardless of the type of polysaccharide employed, the NLCs promoted cutaneous localization of antioxidants in damaged (subjected to incision) skin, with a ~74 to 180-fold higher delivery into the skin compared to percutaneous delivery. This result is consistent with the similar bioadhesive properties of chitosan or sodium alginate-modified NLC. Nanoencapsulation of tea tree oil did not preclude its antimicrobial effects against susceptible and resistant strains of S. aureus and P. aeruginosa, while co-encapsulation of antioxidants increased the NLC-induced fibroblasts migration, supporting their potential usefulness for management of wounds.

Investigation of TEMPO partitioning in different skin models as measured by EPR spectroscopy - Insight into the stratum corneum

Electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) spectroscopy represents an established tool to study properties of microenvironments, e.g. to investigate the structure and dynamics of biological and artificial membranes. In this study, the partitioning of the spin probe 2,2,6,6-tetramethylpiperidine-1-oxyl (TEMPO) in ex vivo human abdominal and breast skin, ex vivo porcine abdominal and ear skin as well as normal and inflammatory in vitro skin equivalents was investigated by EPR spectroscopy. Furthermore, the stratum corneum (SC) lipid composition (as determined by high-performance thin-layer chromatography), SC lipid chain order (probed by infrared spectroscopy) and the SC thickness (investigated by histology) were determined in the skin models. X-band EPR measurements have shown that TEMPO partitions in the lipophilic and hydrophilic microenvironment in varying ratios in different ex vivo and in vitro skin models. Ex vivo human abdominal skin exhibited the highest amount of TEMPO in the lipophilic microenvironment. In contrast, the lowest amount of TEMPO in the lipophilic microenvironment was determined in ex vivo human breast skin and the inflammatory in vitro skin equivalents. Individual EPR spectra of epidermis including SC and dermis indicated that the lipophilic microenvironment of TEMPO mainly corresponds to the most lipophilic part of the epidermis, the SC. The amount of TEMPO in the lipophilic microenvironment was independent of the SC lipid composition and the SC lipid chain order but correlated with the SC thickness. In conclusion, EPR spectroscopy could be a novel technique to determine differences in the SC thickness, thus suitably complementing existing methods.

Essential oils and their constituents as skin penetration enhancer for transdermal drug delivery: a review

OBJECTIVES

In this paper, we focused on essential oils and their constituents as skin penetration enhancers for transdermal drug delivery, mechanism of their action as well as their possible toxicity.

KEY FINDINGS

Essential oils and their volatile constituents can penetrate through the skin as well as enhance penetration of different drug from topical formulation into the lower skin layers using different mechanisms of action based on (1) disintegration of the highly ordered intercellular lipid structure between corneocytes in stratum corneum, (2) interaction with intercellular domain of protein, which induces their conformational modification, (3) increase the partitioning of a drug. After application to the skin, essential oils and their components are rapidly metabolized, not accumulated in the organism and fast excreted what strongly suggest that they can be successfully use as safe penetration enhancers.

SUMMARY

Essential oils and their constituents may be preferred over the traditionally used synthetics materials as safe and suitable permeation enhancers to promote the percutaneous absorption of hydrophilic and lipophilic drugs from topical formulation into the lower skin layers.

Transdermal Drug Delivery Enhancement by Compounds of Natural Origin

The transdermal route of administration offers an alternative pathway for systemic drug delivery with numerous advantages over conventional routes. Regrettably, the stratum corneum forms a formidable barrier that hinders the percutaneous penetration of most drugs, offering an important protection mechanism to the organism against entrance of possible dangerous exogenous molecules. Different types of penetration enhancers have shown the potential to reversibly overcome this barrier to provide effective delivery of drugs across the skin. Although certain chemical and physical skin penetration enhancers are already employed by the pharmaceutical industry in commercially available transdermal products, some skin penetration enhancers are associated with irritating and toxic effects. This emphasizes the need for the discovery of new, safe and effective skin penetration enhancers. Penetration enhancers from natural origin have become popular as they offer several benefits over their synthetic counterparts such as sustainable mass production from a renewable resource and lower cost depending on the type of extraction used. The aim of this article is to give a comprehensive summary of the results from scientific research conducted on skin penetration enhancers of natural origin. The discussions on these natural penetration enhancers have been organized into the following chemical classes: essential oils, terpenes, fatty acids and polysaccharides.