Protection against ultraviolet-B radiation-induced local and systemic suppression of contact hypersensitivity and edema responses in C3H/HeN mice by green tea polyphenols

Sensitive skin: Active ingredients on the spotlight

OBJECTIVE

Sensitive skin is characterized by self-reported sensory perceptions in response to stimuli that should not provoke unpleasant sensations. Cosmetic products for sensitive skin are designed to minimize these symptoms. This study aimed to unveil the most used active ingredients for sensitive skin in facial care products from the pharmacy and parapharmacy channel.

METHODS

A pool of products from the pharmacy and parapharmacy channel whose label included the expressions 'sensitive skin', 'reactive skin' or 'intolerant skin' were analysed. The active ingredients were identified from product compositions and ranked in descending order of occurrence. The scientific evidence regarding the mechanism of action and efficacy of each ingredient was also compiled.

RESULTS

Eighty-eight products from 19 multinational brands were included. Niacinamide leads the top, followed by Avena sativa, allantoin, glycyrrhetinic acid and derivatives and Laminaria ochroleuca. Ingredients that can reduce skin inflammation and act on the skin barrier were used in more than half of the products analysed. The clinical studies regarding the active ingredients used in these products remain sparse and lack methodological quality. Among the top ingredients, niacinamide, panthenol and acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester were the only ones studied on volunteers having sensitive skin, while acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester and palmitoyl tripeptide-8 were designed to act on the molecular targets involved in this condition.

CONCLUSION

This study reveals the most used active ingredients in cosmetic products for sensitive skin, as well as the scientific evidence supporting their efficacy and the mechanisms of action. This insight is meaningful for dermatologists and other health professionals to provide customized advice based on the symptomatology of individuals with sensitive skin, and for the formulation of cosmetic products and design of new active ingredients.

Marine Ingredients for Sensitive Skin: Market Overview

Marine ingredients are a source of new chemical entities with biological action, which is the reason why they have gained relevance in the cosmetic industry. The facial care category is the most relevant in this industry, and within it, the sensitive skin segment occupies a prominent position. This work analyzed the use of marine ingredients in 88 facial cosmetics for sensitive skin from multinational brands, as well as their composition and the scientific evidence that supports their efficacy. Marine ingredients were used in 27% of the cosmetic products for sensitive skin and included the species Laminaria ochroleuca, Ascophyllum nodosum (brown macroalgae), Asparagopsis armata (red macroalgae), and Chlorella vulgaris (microalgae). Carotenoids, polysaccharides, and lipids are the chemical classes highlighted in these preparations. Two ingredients, namely the Ascophyllum nodosum extract and Asparagopsis armata extracts, present clinical evidence supporting their use for sensitive skin. Overall, marine ingredients used in cosmetics for sensitive skin are proposed to reduce skin inflammation and improve the barrier function. Marine-derived preparations constitute promising active ingredients for sensitive skin cosmetic products. Their in-depth study, focusing on the extracted metabolites, randomized placebo-controlled studies including volunteers with sensitive skin, and the use of extraction methods that are more profitable may provide a great opportunity for the cosmetic industry.

Immunomodulatory Effects of Dietary Polyphenols

Functional and nutraceutical foods provide an alternative way to improve immune function to aid in the management of various diseases. Traditionally, many medicinal products have been derived from natural compounds with healing properties. With the development of research into nutraceuticals, it is becoming apparent that many of the beneficial properties of these compounds are at least partly due to the presence of polyphenols. There is evidence that dietary polyphenols can influence dendritic cells, have an immunomodulatory effect on macrophages, increase proliferation of B cells, T cells and suppress Type 1 T helper (Th1), Th2, Th17 and Th9 cells. Polyphenols reduce inflammation by suppressing the pro-inflammatory cytokines in inflammatory bowel disease by inducing Treg cells in the intestine, inhibition of tumor necrosis factor-alpha (TNF-α) and induction of apoptosis, decreasing DNA damage. Polyphenols have a potential role in prevention/treatment of auto-immune diseases like type 1 diabetes, rheumatoid arthritis and multiple sclerosis by regulating signaling pathways, suppressing inflammation and limiting demyelination. In addition, polyphenols cause immunomodulatory effects against allergic reaction and autoimmune disease by inhibition of autoimmune T cell proliferation and downregulation of pro-inflammatory cytokines (interleukin-6 (IL-6), IL-1, interferon-γ (IFN-γ)). Herein, we summarize the immunomodulatory effects of polyphenols and the underlying mechanisms involved in the stimulation of immune responses.

Anti-inflammatory activity of ethyl acetate and n-butanol extracts from Ranunculus macrophyllus Desf. and their phenolic profile

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

The members of the genus Ranunculus have counter-irritating properties and thus, they are traditionally used for treating anti-inflammatory disorders and other skin conditions. Ranunculus macrophyllus Desf. is a wild medicinal plant growing in Algeria and traditionally used to treat some cutaneous skin disorders.

AIM

The aim of this study was to characterize the composition of the ethyl acetate and n-butanol extracts from Ranunculus macrophyllus Desf. as well as to elucidate and to compare their effect against acute skin inflammation. Moreover, both the antioxidant activity and the acute toxicity of the plant extracts were also studied.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Spectrophotometric and chromatographic methods were employed to identify and quantify phenolic compounds and triterpenoids from R. macrophyllus Desf. fractions. The antioxidant activity was estimated using the phosphomolebdenum, DPPH, reducing power and β-carotene bleaching assays. The ethyl acetate and n-butanol extracts were screened for their anti-inflammatory activities using ex-vivo membrane stabilizing assays and in-vivo acute skin inflammation model.

RESULTS

Ethyl acetate fraction showed the highest amounts of total phenolic compounds (413 ± 4 μg GAE/mg extract) and triterpenoids (70.4 ± 1.8 μg UAE/mg extract). Rutin, hesperidin, myricetin and kaempferol were the major compounds identified in the different fractions. Ethyl acetate fraction exhibited strong DPPH^• radical scavenging ability (IC₅₀ 1.6 ± 0.2 μg/mL), high total antioxidant capacity (447 ± 7 μg AAE/mg extract) and reducing power (514 ± 8 μg AAE/mg extract). Ethyl acetate fraction inhibited (73.4 ± 0.3) % of linoleic acid peroxidation. Ethyl acetate and n-butanol fractions did not have any visible toxicity at 2000 mg/kg and presented excellent membrane stabilizing ability. The inhibition of xylene induced ear inflammation was (38 ± 4) % and (46 ± 1) % for RM-B and RM-EA, respectively.

CONCLUSIONS

The high content of both phenolic compounds and triterpenoids combined with the remarkable anti-inflammatory effect and antioxidant activity of ethyl acetate and n-butanol extracts from R. macrophyllus Desf. support the wide spread use of this traditional plant on some skin disorders (inflammatory skin disorders).

Antioxidants as stabilizers of UV filters: an example for the UV-B filter octylmethoxycinnamate

Background

Sunlight is one of the main harmful exogenous factors that induce the reactive oxygen species formation. The human skin is the first line of photoprotection against harmful exogenous factors, such as UV radiations. The topical application of sunscreens, containing UV-B filters, is widely used to protect against UV-induced damage. Octylmethoxycinnamate is the world’s most widely used UV-B filter in sunscreens. However, recent studies have demonstrated that this substance is an endocrine disruptor compound and with potential to damage DNA. Thus, the safety of this organic filter is a current concern for human health, and it was urgent to develop new photoprotective strategies. In this sense, due to the potential to neutralize the UV-induced free radicals, the use of antioxidants as UV filter stabilizers presented as a novel promising strategy.

Research

The purpose of this review was to assess the use of antioxidants as stabilizers for UV-B filter octylmethoxycinnamate. For this, we discuss the chemical and physical characteristics of UV-B filter octylmethoxycinnamate, emphasizing the stability, photostability, and reactivity of this UV filter. The use of antioxidants in sunscreens will also be addressed, from a perspective of the main characteristics that allowed their use in sunscreen formulations. Then, the concomitant use of both was described from a historical and physical chemical perspective, always emphasizing the advantages and disadvantages of this association.

Conclusions

The combination of antioxidants with UV-B filter octylmethoxycinnamate in appropriated formulations represents a viable strategy to protect the human skin against UV-induced damage.

Nrf2 Activation by SK-119 Attenuates Oxidative Stress, UVB, and LPS-Induced Damage

BACKGROUND/AIMS

The Nrf2 signaling pathway plays a pivotal role in neutralizing excess reactive oxygen species formation and therefore enhancing the endogenous cellular protection mechanism. Thus, activating this pathway may provide therapeutic options against oxidative stress-related disorders. We have recently applied a computer-aided drug design approach to the design and synthesis of novel Nrf2 enhancers. The current study was aimed at investigating the potential beneficial impact of (E)-5-oxo-1-(4-((2,4,6-trihydroxybenzylidene)amino)phenyl)pyrrolidine-3-carboxylic acid (SK-119) in skin oxidative damage models.

METHODS

SK-119, tested initially in PC-12 cells, attenuated oxidative stress-induced cytotoxicity concomitantly with Nrf2 activation. The potential impact of this compound was evaluated in skin-based disease models both in vitro (HaCaT cells) and ex vivo (human skin organ culture).

RESULTS

The data clearly showed the marked anti-inflammatory and photoprotection properties of the compound; SK-119-treated cells or tissues displayed a reduction in cytokine secretion induced by lipopolysaccharides (LPS) in a manner comparable with dexamethasone. In addition, topical application of SK-119 was able to block UVB-induced oxidative stress and attenuated caspase-mediated apoptosis, DNA adduct formation, and the concomitant cellular damage.

CONCLUSION

These results indicate that SK-119 is an Nrf2 activator that can be used as a prototype molecule for the development of novel treatments of dermatological disorders related to oxidative stress.

Topical treatment of green tea polyphenols emulsified in carboxymethyl cellulose protects against acute ultraviolet light B-induced photodamage in hairless mice

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation causes skin injury and inflammation resulting in impaired immune response and increased risk of skin cancer. It has been shown that green tea polyphenols (GTPs) enhanced intracellular antioxidant defense and promoted the downregulation of proapoptotic genes, and they could be used to protect against the damage induced by UV irradiation. However, the high instability and poor bioavailability of GTPs impose restrictions on their potential pharmacological use. Here we show that carboxymethyl cellulose sodium (CMC-Na) had a stabilizing effect on GTPs under aqueous conditions and topical application of GTPs (emulsified in CMC-Na) had a strong photoprotective effect against acute UVB induced photodamage in uncovered (Uncv) hairless mice skin. After 8 h of incubation at 50 °C with CMC-Na, a percentage i.e. 93% of GTPs was preserved, while in the absence of CMC-Na, a percentage of only 61% was preserved. Topical treatment of emulsified GTPs effectively inhibited acute UVB-induced infiltration of inflammatory cells, increase of skin thickness, oxidative stress such as depletion of antioxidant enzymes and lipid oxidation, and induced nuclear accumulation of Nrf2 in the mice skin. We also discovered the ability of GTPs to simultaneously trigger accumulation of nuclear Nrf2 and export of nuclear Bach1. Altogether, our findings reinforced the putative application of GTPs in the prevention/minimization of the deleterious effects of UV on the skin.

Molecular mechanisms of green tea polyphenols with protective effects against skin photoaging

Whereas green tea has historically been consumed in high quantities in Northeast Asia, its popularity is also increasing in many Western countries. Green tea is an abundant source of plant polyphenols exhibiting numerous effects that are potentially beneficial for human health. Accumulating evidence suggests that green tea polyphenols confer protective effects on the skin against ultraviolet (UV) irradiation-induced acceleration of skin aging, involving antimelanogenic, antiwrinkle, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory effects as well as prevention of immunosuppression. Melanin pigmentation in the skin is a major defense mechanism against UV irradiation, but pigmentation abnormalities such as melasma, freckles, senile lentigines, and other forms of melanin hyperpigmentation can also cause serious health and aesthetic issues. Furthermore, UV irradiation initiates the degradation of fibrillar collagen and elastic fibers, promoting the process of skin aging through deep wrinkle formation and loss of tissue elasticity. UV irradiation-induced formation of free radicals also contributes to accelerated photoaging. Additionally, immunosuppression caused by UV irradiation plays an important role in photoaging and skin carcinogenesis. In this review, we summarize the current literature regarding the antimelanogenic, antiwrinkle, antioxidant, and immunosuppression preventive mechanisms of green tea polyphenols that have been demonstrated to protect against UV irradiation-stimulated skin photoaging, and gauge the quality of evidence supporting the need for clinical studies using green tea polyphenols as anti-photoaging agents in novel cosmeceuticals.

In Vitro Chemopreventive Properties of Green Tea, Rooibos and Honeybush Extracts in Skin Cells

The chemopreventive properties of the herbal teas rooibos (Aspalathus linearis) and honeybush (Cyclopia spp.) have been demonstrated on mouse skin in vivo but the underlying mechanisms are not clear. The aim of the current study was to determine the anti-proliferative and pro-apoptotic activity of methanol and aqueous extracts of rooibos and two Cyclopia species in different skin cells, using green tea (Camellia sinensis) as a benchmark. Extracts were also characterised for their major individual polyphenols by high performance liquid chromatography and spectroscopically for the total polyphenol (TP) groups. The methanol extract of rooibos, containing higher levels of polyphenols than its aqueous extract, displayed similar activity to green tea as it selectively targeted premalignant cells by inhibiting cell proliferation at lower concentrations whilst inducing apoptosis via membrane depolarisation at higher concentrations. Specific roles of the major rooibos dihydrochalcones and flavanol/proanthocyanidin-type (FLAVA) compounds are likely to be involved. The aqueous extracts of the Cyclopia species were more active against cell proliferation and at inducing apoptosis which was associated with a higher FLAVA content and a reduced TP/FLAVA ratio. In contrast, their methanol extracts exhibited a cytoprotective effect against apoptosis which was related to their monomeric xanthone and flavanone content. The underlying chemopreventive properties of green tea and the herbal teas appear to be associated with diverse and complex monomeric/polymeric polyphenolic cell interactions.

Chocolate flavanols and skin photoprotection: a parallel, double-blind, randomized clinical trial

BACKGROUND

Solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation has deleterious effects on the skin, including sunburn, photoaging and cancer. Chocolate flavanols are naturally-occurring antioxidant and anti-inflammatory molecules that could play a role in preventing cutaneous UV damage. We investigated the influence of 12-week high-flavanol chocolate (HFC) consumption on skin sensitivity to UV radiation, measured by minimal erythema dose (MED). We also evaluated skin elasticity and hydration.

METHODS

In this 2-group, parallel, double-blind, randomized controlled trial, 74 women aged 20-65 years and Fitzpatrick skin phototypes I or II were recruited from the general community in Quebec City, for randomization to either HFC (n = 33) or low-flavanol chocolate (LFC) (n = 41). A blocked randomisation (4), considering date of entry, skin type and age as factors, generated a sequentially-numbered allocation list. Study participants and research assistants were blinded. Totally, 30 g of chocolate were consumed daily for 12 weeks, followed by a 3-week washout period. MED was assessed at baseline and at 6, 9, 12 and 15 weeks. Main outcome was changes in MED at week 12.

RESULTS

33 participants in the HFC group and 41 in the LFC group were analyzed with 15 weeks of follow-up. Both groups showed similarly-increased MED at 12 weeks (HFC: 0.0252 ± 0.1099 J/cm2 [mean ± standard deviation (SD)]; LFC: 0.0151 ± 0.1118; mean difference (MD): 0.0100 J/cm2; 95% confidence interval (CI): -0.0417 to 0.0618). However, after 3-week washout, the HFC group presented decreased MED (-0.0248 ± 0.1145) whereas no effect was seen in the LFC group (0.0168 ± 0.1698) (MD: -0.0417; 95% CI: -0.1106 to 0.0272). Net temple elasticity increased slightly but significantly by 0.09 ± 0.12 mm in the HFC group at 12 weeks compared to 0.02 ± 0.12 mm in the LFC group (MD: 0.06; 95% CI: 0.01 to 0.12 ). No significant adverse events were reported.

CONCLUSION

Our study failed to demonstrate a statistically-significant protective effect of HFC vs. LFC consumption on skin sensitivity to UV radiation as measured by MED.

TRIAL REGISTRATION

ClinicalTrials.gov identifier: NCT01444625.

Targeting the redox balance in inflammatory skin conditions

Reactive oxygen species (ROS) can be both beneficial and deleterious. Under normal physiological conditions, ROS production is tightly regulated, and ROS participate in both pathogen defense and cellular signaling. However, insufficient ROS detoxification or ROS overproduction generates oxidative stress, resulting in cellular damage. Oxidative stress has been linked to various inflammatory diseases. Inflammation is an essential response in the protection against injurious insults and thus important at the onset of wound healing. However, hampered resolution of inflammation can result in a chronic, exaggerated response with additional tissue damage. In the pathogenesis of several inflammatory skin conditions, e.g., sunburn and psoriasis, inflammatory-mediated tissue damage is central. The prolonged release of excess ROS in the skin can aggravate inflammatory injury and promote chronic inflammation. The cellular redox balance is therefore tightly regulated by several (enzymatic) antioxidants and pro-oxidants; however, in case of chronic inflammation, the antioxidant system may be depleted, and prolonged oxidative stress occurs. Due to the central role of ROS in inflammatory pathologies, restoring the redox balance forms an innovative therapeutic target in the development of new strategies for treating inflammatory skin conditions. Nevertheless, the clinical use of antioxidant-related therapies is still in its infancy.

Discovering the link between nutrition and skin aging

Skin has been reported to reflect the general inner-health status and aging. Nutrition and its reflection on skin has always been an interesting topic for scientists and physicians throughout the centuries worldwide. Vitamins, carotenoids, tocopherols, flavonoids and a variety of plant extracts have been reported to possess potent anti-oxidant properties and have been widely used in the skin care industry either as topically applied agents or oral supplements in an attempt to prolong youthful skin appearance. This review will provide an overview of the current literature "linking" nutrition with skin aging.

The art and science of new advances in cosmeceuticals

The need for cosmeceutical research is ever present. This article has tried to highlight the chemistry of botanic extracts in the current marketplace and review the best research available. In some ways, more questions have been raised than answered; yet, ideas for intellectual discourse have been provided. Herein lies the physician cosmeceutical challenge.

Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities of Maillard reaction products isolated from sugar-amino acid model systems

We investigated the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities of both crude and ultrafiltrated Maillard reaction (MR) products (MRPs) derived from sugar-amino acid MR models, comprising fructose (Fru), glucose (Glu) or ribose (Rib) reacted with glycine (Gly) or lysine (Lys), respectively. Crude MRPs derived from Glu-Lys showed the greatest capacity (P < 0.05) to inhibit nitric oxide (NO) and interleukin 8 (IL-8) production in interferon γ and phorbol ester-induced Caco-2 cells. Moreover, one ultrafiltrated fraction (MW < 1 kDa) recovered from Glu-Lys exhibited the greatest (P < 0.05) affinity to inhibit NO. This effect also corresponded to an inhibition of both iNOS transcription and translation. The NO and IL-8 inhibitory activities of crude MRPs were positively correlated with intracellular oxidation inhibitory activity. In conclusion, we have demonstrated an anti-inflammatory capacity of MRPs in inflamed Caco-2 cells that is specific to low molecular weight (MW < 1 kDa) Glu-Lys MRPs.

New agents for prevention of ultraviolet-induced nonmelanoma skin cancer

With the incidence of nonmelanoma skin cancer on the rise, current prevention methods, such as the use of sunscreens, have yet to prove adequate to reverse this trend. There has been considerable interest in identifying compounds that will inhibit or reverse the biochemical changes required for skin cancers to develop, either by pharmacologic intervention or by dietary manipulation. By targeting different pathways identified as important in the pathogenesis of nonmelanoma skin cancers, a combination approach with multiple agents or the addition of chemopreventative agents to topical sunscreens may offer the potential for novel and synergistic therapies in treating nonmelanoma skin cancer.

Imiquimod-induced TLR7 signaling enhances repair of DNA damage induced by ultraviolet light in bone marrow-derived cells

Imiquimod is a TLR7/8 agonist that has anticancer therapeutic efficacy in the treatment of precancerous skin lesions and certain nonmelanoma skin cancers. To test our hypothesis that imiquimod enhances DNA repair as a mechanism for its anticancer activity, the nucleotide excision repair genes were studied in bone marrow-derived cells. Imiquimod enhanced the expression of xeroderma pigmentosum (XP) A and other DNA repair genes (quantitative real-time PCR analysis) and resulted in an increased nuclear localization of the DNA repair enzyme XPA. This was dependent on MyD88, as bone marrow-derived cells from MyD88(-/-) mice did not increase XPA gene expression and did not enhance the survival of MyD88(-/-)-derived bone marrow-derived cells after UV B exposure as was observed in bone marrow-derived cells from MyD88(+/+) mice. Imiquimod also enhanced DNA repair of UV light (UVL)-irradiated gene expression constructs and accelerated the resolution of cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers after UVL exposures in P388 and XS52. Lastly, topical treatment of mouse skin with 5% imiquimod cream prior to UVL irradiation resulted in a decrease in the number of cyclobutane pyridimine dimer-positive APC that were found in local lymph nodes 24 h after UVL irradiation in both wild-type and IL-12 gene-targeted mice. In total, these data support the idea that TLR7 agonists such as imiquimod enhance DNA repair in bone marrow-derived cells. This property is likely to be an important mechanism for its anticancer effects because it protects cutaneous APC from the deleterious effects of UVL.

Ex vivo evaluation of radical sun protection factor in popular sunscreens with antioxidants

BACKGROUND

UVA induces tissue damage via the production of radical oxygen species. Adding antioxidants to UV filters in sunscreens is a novel photoprotective strategy. The topical application of antioxidants in sunscreen can potentially neutralize the UVA-induced free radicals.

OBJECTIVES

We sought to assess the degree of free radical protection offered by sunscreens with antioxidants and attempted to differentiate the contribution of free radical protection from that of the UV filters.

METHOD

Twelve sunscreen products were purchased. The degree of UVA protection (UVA-PF) was measured via an in vitro assay according to a European guideline (Colipa). In addition, an electron spin resonance (ESR) spectroscopy-based assay was used to measure the radical skin protection factor (RSF) and antioxidant power (AP) of each product.

RESULTS

The sun protection factor (SPF) values of the sunscreens ranged from 15 to 55, and the UVA-PF values ranged from 2.4 to 28.2. The RSF values ranged from 2.4 to 27.1. There is a high correlation between RSF and UVA-PF. The AP values for nearly all the products were 0, and two products (#4 and #9) had very low AP values of 16 and 12, respectively.

LIMITATIONS

The study only evaluated a small number of sunscreen products, and only ex vivo and in vitro methods were used to assess the products.

CONCLUSIONS

The idea of combining UV filters with antioxidants is appealing. Current sunscreen products on the market offer free radical protection, but the majority of the radical protection is from UV filters rather than antioxidants.

Green tea prevents non-melanoma skin cancer by enhancing DNA repair

Excessive exposure of the skin to solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation is one of the major factors for the development of skin cancers, including non-melanoma. For the last several centuries the consumption of dietary phytochemicals has been linked to numerous health benefits including the photoprotection of the skin. Green tea has been consumed as a popular beverage world-wide and skin photoprotection by green tea polyphenols (GTPs) has been widely investigated. In this article, we have discussed the recent investigations and mechanistic studies which define the potential efficacy of GTPs on the prevention of non-melanoma skin cancer. UV-induced DNA damage, particularly the formation of cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers, has been implicated in immunosuppression and initiation of skin cancer. Topical application or oral administration of green tea through drinking water of mice prevents UVB-induced skin tumor development, and this prevention is mediated, at least in part, through rapid repair of DNA. The DNA repair by GTPs is mediated through the induction of interleukin (IL)-12 which has been shown to have DNA repair ability. The new mechanistic investigations support and explain the anti-photocarcinogenic activity, in particular anti-non-melanoma skin cancer, of green tea and explain the benefits of green tea for human health.

Natural agents: cellular and molecular mechanisms of photoprotection

The skin is the largest organ of the body that produces a flexible and self-repairing barrier and protects the body from most common potentially harmful physical, environmental, and biological insults. Solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation is one of the major environmental insults to the skin and causes multi-tiered cellular and molecular events eventually leading to skin cancer. The past decade has seen a surge in the incidence of skin cancer due to changes in life style patterns that have led to a significant increase in the amount of UV radiation that people receive. Reducing excessive exposure to UV radiation is desirable; nevertheless this approach is not easy to implement. Therefore, there is an urgent need to develop novel strategies to reduce the adverse biological effects of UV radiation on the skin. A wide variety of natural agents have been reported to possess substantial skin photoprotective effects. Numerous preclinical and clinical studies have elucidated that natural agents act by several cellular and molecular mechanisms to delay or prevent skin cancer. In this review article, we have summarized and discussed some of the selected natural agents for skin photoprotection.

Cosmeceuticals: practical applications

Cosmeceuticals are topically applied products that are more than merely cosmetic, yet are not true drugs that have undergone rigorous placebo controlled studies for safety and efficacy. There are many review articles that outline the theoretical biologic and clinical actions of these cosmeceuticals and their various ingredients. This article reviews how to incorporate various cosmeceuticals into the treatment regime of patients, depending on the diagnosis and therapies chosen. The practical application of when, why, and on whom to use different products will enable dermatologists to improve the methodology of product selection and, ultimately, improve patient's clinical results.

Nutrition and nonmelanoma skin cancers

The incidence of nonmelanoma skin cancer is increasing every year. Basal cell carcinoma and squamous cell carcinoma are the two major types of nonmelanoma skin cancer. Among other factors, understanding the potential role of nutrients in the development, progression, and treatment of nonmelanoma skin cancer is critical. This contribution provides a review of the nutrients that have been more extensively investigated in the literature with regard to nonmelanoma skin cancer, including dietary fats, retinol, carotenoids, vitamin C, vitamin D, vitamin E, selenium, copper, iron, zinc, green tea, and black tea.

Preventive effects of black tea theaflavins against mouse type IV allergy

BACKGROUND

Tea (Camellia sinensis L.), one of the most popular beverages, contains various beneficial constituents. We investigated the preventive effects of black tea theaflavins, theaflavin-3-gallate (3-TF) and theaflavin-3,3'-digallate (TFDG), on oxazolone-induced type IV allergy in male ICR mice.

RESULTS

Percutaneous administration of both 3-TF and TFDG at 0.2 mg ear(-1) showed significant preventive effects against mouse type IV allergy. Oral administration of these agents at 50 mg kg(-1) body weight also showed significant preventive effects against mouse type IV allergy. Oral administration of 3-TF and TFDG at a dose of 50 mg kg(-1) body weight prevented the increases in levels of some proinflammatory cytokines, interleukin-12 (IL-12), interferon-gamma (IFN-gamma), and tumour necrosis factor-alpha (TNF-alpha), in the sera and/or ears of mice with type IV allergy. Lowering of serum antioxidant activity in mice with allergic symptoms was also prevented by oral administration of these theaflavins at a dose of 50 mg kg(-1) body weight. The anti-allergic mechanisms of action of theaflavins involve inhibition of the fluctuations of cytokines and maintenance of antioxidant status in allergic mice.

CONCLUSION

These results suggest that the theaflavins as well as catechins contribute to the anti-allergic effects of black tea.

Molecular mechanisms of inhibition of photocarcinogenesis by silymarin, a phytochemical from milk thistle (Silybum marianum L. Gaertn.) (Review)

Changes in life style over the past several decades including much of the time spent outdoors and the use of tanning devices for cosmetic purposes by individuals have led to an increase in the incidence of solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation-induced skin diseases including the risk of skin cancers. Solar UV radiations are considered as the most prevalent environmental carcinogens, and chronic exposure of the skin to UV leads to squamous and basal cell carcinoma and melanoma in human population. A wide variety of phytochemicals have been reported to have substantial anti-carcinogenic activity because of their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Silymarin is one of them and extensively studied for its skin photoprotective capabilities. Silymarin, a flavanolignan, is extracted from the fruits and seeds of milk thistle (Silybum marianum L. Gaertn.), and has been shown to have chemopreventive effects against photocarcinogenesis in mouse tumor models. Topical treatment of silymarin inhibited photocarcinogenesis in mice in terms of tumor incidence, tumor multiplicity and growth of the tumors. Wide range of in vivo mechanistic studies conducted in a variety of mouse models indicated that silymarin has anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory and immunomodulatory properties which led to the prevention of photocarcinogenesis in mice. This review summarizes and updates the photoprotective potential of silymarin with the particular emphasis on its in vivo mechanism of actions. It is suggested that silymarin may favorably supplement sunscreen protection, and may be useful for skin diseases associated with solar UV radiation-induced inflammation, oxidative stress and immunomodulatory effects.

[Skin aging]

Like the entire human organism, the skin is subject to an intrinsic unpreventable aging process. But exogenous factors also influence skin aging. Ultraviolet radiation in particular results in premature skin aging, also referred to as extrinsic skin aging or photo aging, causing in large part aging-associated changes in sun-exposed areas. Intrinsic and extrinsic aging share several molecular similarities despite morphological and pathophysiological differences. The formation of reactive oxygen species and the induction of metalloproteinases reflect central aspects of skin aging. Accumulation of fragmented collagen fibrils prevents neocollagenesis and accounts for further degradation of extracellular matrix by means of positive feedback regulation. The importance of extrinsic factors in skin aging and the detection of its mechanisms has given rise to development of various therapeutic and preventive strategies.

Skin photoprotection by natural polyphenols: anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and DNA repair mechanisms

Epidemiological, clinical and laboratory studies have implicated solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation in various skin diseases including, premature aging of the skin and melanoma and non-melanoma skin cancers. Chronic UV radiation exposure-induced skin diseases or skin disorders are caused by the excessive induction of inflammation, oxidative stress and DNA damage, etc. The use of chemopreventive agents, such as plant polyphenols, to inhibit these events in UV-exposed skin is gaining attention. Chemoprevention refers to the use of agents that can inhibit, reverse or retard the process of these harmful events in the UV-exposed skin. A wide variety of polyphenols or phytochemicals, most of which are dietary supplements, have been reported to possess substantial skin photoprotective effects. This review article summarizes the photoprotective effects of some selected polyphenols, such as green tea polyphenols, grape seed proanthocyanidins, resveratrol, silymarin and genistein, on UV-induced skin inflammation, oxidative stress and DNA damage, etc., with a focus on mechanisms underlying the photoprotective effects of these polyphenols. The laboratory studies conducted in animal models suggest that these polyphenols have the ability to protect the skin from the adverse effects of UV radiation, including the risk of skin cancers. It is suggested that polyphenols may favorably supplement sunscreens protection, and may be useful for skin diseases associated with solar UV radiation-induced inflammation, oxidative stress and DNA damage.

DNA repair and cytokine responses

As sunscreens do not provide complete protection against solar/UV radiation, alternative protective strategies are necessary to cope with the increasing incidence of skin cancer. These strategies include the reduction of UVR-induced DNA damage by the topical application of bacterial DNA repair enzymes. Recent evidence suggests that nucleotide excision repair, the physiological repair system that is mostly responsible for the removal of UVR-mediated DNA damage, can be modulated by cytokines, including IL-12, IL-18, and alpha-melanocyte-stimulating hormone. The mechanisms involved and the biological as well as the potential therapeutic implications of these findings are discussed.Journal of Investigative Dermatology Symposium Proceedings (2009) 14, 63-66; doi:10.1038/jidsymp.2009.3.

Topical application of green and white tea extracts provides protection from solar-simulated ultraviolet light in human skin

BACKGROUND

Tea polyphenols have been found to exert beneficial effects on the skin via their antioxidant properties.

AIMS

We sought to determine whether topical application of green tea or white tea extracts would prevent simulated solar radiation-induced oxidative damages to DNA and Langerhans cells that may lead to immune suppression and carcinogenesis.

METHODS

Skin samples were analysed from volunteers or skin explants treated with white tea or green tea after UV irradiation. In another group of patients, the in vivo immune protective effects of green and white tea were evaluated using contact hypersensitivity to dinitrochlorobenzene.

RESULTS

Topical application of green and white tea offered protection against detrimental effects of UV on cutaneous immunity. Such protection is not because of direct UV absorption or sunscreen effects as both products showed a sun protection factor of 1. There was no significant difference in the levels of protection afforded by the two agents. Hence, both green tea and white tea are potential photoprotective agents that may be used in conjunction with established methods of sun protection.

Development of a whole-organism model to screen new compounds for sun protection

We used zebrafish as a whole-organism model to screen new compounds for sun protection activity. First of all, we designed a series of UVB exposure experiments and recorded the phenotypic changes of zebrafish embryos. Results showed that 100 mJ/cm(2) of UVB given six times separated by 30 min intervals is the best condition. Fin malformation (reduced and/or absent fin) phenotypes are the most evident consequences after exposure to UVB. Each fin was affected by UVB, including pelvic, ventral, caudal, and dorsal fin, but pelvic fin seemed to be the most sensitive target after UVB exposure. We furthermore carried out "prevention" and "treatment" experiments using green tea extract and/or (-)-epigallocatechin (EGCG) to test this whole-organism model by observing the morphological changes of all fins (especially pelvic fin) after UVB exposure. Effects of UVB, green tea extract and EGCG on fin development were assessed using the Kaplan-Meier analysis, log-rank test and Cox proportional hazards regression. Results showed that a zebrafish pelvic fin in the UVB + green tea (treatment) group is 5.51 (range from 2.39 to 14.90) times, one in the UVB + green tea (prevention) group is 7.04 (range from 3.11 to 18.92) times, and one in the 25 ppm of EGCG (prevention) group is 22.19 (range from 9.40 to 61.50) times more likely to return to normal fin than one in the UVB only group. On the basis of these observations, we believe this model is effective for screening the higher stability and lower toxicity of new compounds, such as small chemicals which are derivative from EGCG or other dietary agents for sun protection.

Subchronic exposure to ellagic acid impairs cytotoxic T-cell function and suppresses humoral immunity in mice

Ellagic acid (EA) is present in a variety of foods such as grapes, strawberries, raspberries, and nuts. It is a dietary plant phenol that has been shown to inhibit oxidative stress and chemical carcinogenesis. Although several studies have examined the protective mechanisms of dietary EA including the induction of detoxifying enzymes, regulation of cell cycle, chelation of nickel, and prevention of DNA methylation, none have addressed the role of EA in immunological surveillance. This study investigates the status of immune function in B6C3F1 mice exposed continuously to EA in drinking water at 0.5, 1.0, or 2.0 mg/kg/day for 28 days. Although this range of exposure is above the estimated human daily intake (approximately 940 microg/day for 70 kg person or 13.4 microg/kg/day), these levels would not be unreasonable if EA were used as a dietary supplement or as a chemotherapeutic agent. Previous reports have demonstrated the anticarcinogenic effects of EA at levels 10- to 250-fold greater than those applied in this study. Immunological parameters assessed included natural killer (NK) cell activity, cytotoxic T lymphocyte (CTL) activity, IgM antibody plaque forming cell (PFC) response, thymus, spleen, kidney, and liver mass, and total cellularity for the thymus and spleen. Subchronic exposure to EA for 28 days in drinking water caused significant suppression of specific IgM antibody responses in the 2.0 mg/kg EA treatment group and suppressed cytotoxic T-cell function in the 0.5 and 1.0 mg/kg EA treatment groups. All other immunological parameters were within normal ranges. Kidney and liver mass were not altered after treatment with EA. The results from this study indicate that EA suppressed both IgM antibody responses and CTLs. These observations suggest important implications on human health should EA be prescribed as a chemotherapeutic agent or a preventative dietary supplement for cancer.

Cancer chemoprevention through dietary antioxidants: progress and promise

It is estimated that nearly one-third of all cancer deaths in the United States could be prevented through appropriate dietary modification. Various dietary antioxidants have shown considerable promise as effective agents for cancer prevention by reducing oxidative stress which has been implicated in the development of many diseases, including cancer. Therefore, for reducing the incidence of cancer, modifications in dietary habits, especially by increasing consumption of fruits and vegetables rich in antioxidants, are increasingly advocated. Accumulating research evidence suggests that many dietary factors may be used alone or in combination with traditional chemotherapeutic agents to prevent the occurrence of cancer, their metastatic spread, or even to treat cancer. The reduced cancer risk and lack of toxicity associated with high intake of fruits and vegetables suggest that specific concentrations of antioxidant agents from these dietary sources may produce cancer chemopreventive effects without causing significant levels of toxicity. This review presents an extensive analysis of the key findings from studies on the effects of dietary antioxidants such as tea polyphenols, curcumin, genistein, resveratrol, lycopene, pomegranate, and lupeol against cancers of the skin, prostate, breast, lung, and liver. This research is also leading to the identification of novel cancer drug targets.

Idebenone, green tea, and Coffeeberry extract: new and innovative antioxidants

The use of topical antioxidants is gaining favor among dermatologists because of their broad biologic activity. Many are not only antioxidants but also have antiinflammatory and anticarcinogenic activities. Thus for dermatologists these cosmeceuticals have many potential applications. In general, topical antioxidants exert their effects by down-regulating free radical mediated pathways that damage skin. The present study will describe the science behind some of the newest topical antioxidants and outline how they can be used as part of a comprehensive skin care regimen.

Green tea phenol extracts reduce UVB-induced DNA damage in human cells via interleukin-12

Green tea chemoprevention has been a focus of recent research, as a polyphenolic fraction from green tea (GTP) has been suggested to prevent UV radiation-induced skin cancer. Recently, it was demonstrated that GTP reduced the risk for skin cancer in a murine photocarcinogenesis model. This was accompanied by a reduction in UV-induced DNA damage. These effects appeared to be mediated via interleukin (IL)-12, which was previously shown to induce DNA repair. Therefore, we studied whether GTP induction of IL-12 and DNA repair could also be observed in human cells. KB cells and normal human keratinocytes were exposed to GTP 5 h before and after UVB. UVB-induced apoptosis was reduced in UVB-exposed cells treated with GTP. GTP induced the secretion of IL-12 in keratinocytes. The reduction in UV-induced cell death by GTP was almost completely reversed upon addition of an anti-IL-12-antibody, indicating that the reduction of UV-induced cell death by GTP is mediated via IL-12. The ability of IL-12 to reduce DNA damage and sunburn cells was confirmed in "human living skin equivalent" models. Hence the previously reported UV-protective effects of GTP appear to be mediated in human cells via IL-12, most likely through induction of DNA repair.

UV-induced immune suppression and photocarcinogenesis: chemoprevention by dietary botanical agents

Studies of immune-suppressed transplant recipients and patients with biopsy-proven skin cancer have confirmed that ultraviolet (UV) radiation-induced immune suppression is a risk factor for the development of skin cancer in humans. UV radiation suppresses the immune system in several ways. The UVB spectrum inhibits antigen presentation, induces the release of immunosuppressive cytokines, and elicits DNA damage that is a molecular trigger of UV-mediated immunosuppression. It is therefore important to elucidate the mechanisms underlying UV-induced immunosuppression as a basis for developing strategies to protect individuals from this effect and subsequent development of skin cancer. Dietary botanicals are of particular interest as they have been shown to inhibit UV-induced immune suppression and photocarcinogenesis. In this review, we summarize the most recent investigations and mechanistic studies regarding the photoprotective efficacy of selected dietary agents, including, green tea polyphenols, grape seed proanthocyanidins and silymarin. We present evidence that these chemopreventive agents prevent UVB-induced immunosuppression and photocarcinogenesis through: (i) the induction of immunoregulatory cytokine interleukin (IL)-12; (ii) IL-12-dependent DNA repair; and (iii) stimulation of cytotoxic T cells in the tumor microenvironment. The new information regarding the mechanisms of action of these agents supports their potential use as adjuncts in the prevention of photocarcinogenesis.

(-)-Epicatechin-3-gallate, a green tea polyphenol is a potent agent against UVB-induced damage in HaCaT keratinocytes

(-)-Epicatechin-3-gallate (ECG) is a polyphenolic compound similar to (-)-epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG) which is abundant in green tea. Numerous workers have proposed that EGCG protects epidermal cells against UVB-induced damage. However, little has been known about whether ECG protects keratinocytes against UVB-induced damage. We decided to investigate the protective effects and underlying mechanisms of ECG on UVB-induced damage. Cell viability was determined by the MTT assay. Activation of ERK1/2, p38 and JNK was analyzed by Western blotting. Intracellular H2O2 production and DNA content was analyzed by flow cytometry. Lipid peroxidation was assayed by colorimetry. In our study, we found that ECG dose-dependently attenuated UVB-induced keratinocyte death. Moreover, ECG markedly inhibited UVB-induced cell membrane lipid peroxidation and H2O2 generation in keratinocytes, suggesting that ECG can act as a free radical scavenger when keratinocytes were photodamaged. In parallel, H2O2-induced the activation of ERK1/2, p38 and JNK in keratinocytes could be inhibited by ECG. UVB-induced pre-G1 arrest leading to apoptotic changes of keratinocytes were blocked by ECG. Taken together, we provide here evidence that ECG protects keratinocytes from UVB-induced photodamage and H2O2-induced oxidative stress, possibly through inhibition of the activation of ERK1/2, p38 and JNK and/or scavenging of free radicals.