The use of natural ingredients in innovative Korean cosmeceuticals

A Review of Anti-Inflammatory Phytoconstituents Used in Herbal Cosmeceuticals for the Treatment of Atopic Dermatitis

Skin diseases such as atopic dermatitis affect babies, children, and adults and are characterized by red skin/spots, severe itching that appears on the face, head, legs, neck, and hands, and various causes of illness caused by various external and internal factors. AD is a type IIgE-mediated hypersensitivity reaction. Herbal preparations treat various dermatological diseases like dry skin, melasma, acne, and eczema. Cosmeceuticals are the connection between cosmetics and medicine, one of the world's most used forms of medicine. Cosmeceuticals products are beneficial in treating AD. Herbal cosmetics play a major role in curing various skin diseases. Today, various herbs used in cosmeceuticals have anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antibacterial, and antiseptic effects. Compared to synthetic preparations, herbal preparations have fewer side effects. This review paper introduces Atopic dermatitis, cosmeceutical, and various phytoconstituents like gallic acid, ferulic acid, boswellic acid, quercetin, and naringenin tetra hydroxyl flavanol glycoside, glycyrrhizic acid, epigallocatechin gallate, etc., used in atopic dermatitis.

Natural products in cosmetics

The global cosmetics market reached US$500 billion in 2017 and is expected to exceed US$800 billion by 2023, at around a 7% annual growth rate. The cosmetics industry is emerging as one of the fastest-growing industries of the past decade. Data shows that the Chinese cosmetics market was US$60 billion in 2021. It is expected to be the world's number one consumer cosmetics market by 2050, with a size of approximately US$450 billion. The influence of social media and the internet has raised awareness of the risks associated with the usage of many chemicals in cosmetics and the health benefits of natural products derived from plants and other natural resources. As a result, the cosmetic industry is now paying more attention to natural products. The present review focus on the possible applications of natural products from various biological sources in skin care cosmetics, including topical care products, fragrances, moisturizers, UV protective, and anti-wrinkle products. In addition, the mechanisms of targets for evaluation of active ingredients in cosmetics and the possible benefits of these bioactive compounds in rejuvenation and health, and their potential role in cosmetics are also discussed.

Climate Smart Regenerative Agriculture to Produce Sustainable Beauty Products: The Case Study of Snail Secretion Filtrate (LX360®)

In the last years, the environmental impacts of cosmetics production have received growing interest from consumers, industries and the scientific community. Therefore, the selection and evaluation of more sustainable ingredients for cosmetic preparations need greater attention. The purpose of this work was to evaluate the environmental impact of snail secretion filtrate (LX360®), which could be used as an alternative cosmetic ingredient. The Carbon Footprint (CF) was used to quantify the kgCO2eq per liter of the LX360® produced in a rearing system farm that follows circularity economy and regenerative agriculture principles. The study computes the soil organic carbon (SOC) stock change due to the implementation of regenerative agricultural practices. The CF of the production system was up to 1.76 kg CO2eq L−1, where the extraction stage contributed most. Findings on SOC stock showed a significant increase compared to the previous land-use. The net sequestered CO2 into the soil amounts to 2.07 kg CO2eq L−1; therefore, the production of LX360® showed a positive carbon balance (0.31 kg CO2eq L−1). The application of regenerative agriculture in snail rearing systems positively affects SOC sequestration, and it should be considered as a best management practice for the restoration of degraded land.

From Animal Poisons and Venoms to Medicines: Achievements, Challenges and Perspectives in Drug Discovery

Animal poisons and venoms are comprised of different classes of molecules displaying wide-ranging pharmacological activities. This review aims to provide an in-depth view of toxin-based compounds from terrestrial and marine organisms used as diagnostic tools, experimental molecules to validate postulated therapeutic targets, drug libraries, prototypes for the design of drugs, cosmeceuticals, and therapeutic agents. However, making these molecules applicable requires extensive preclinical trials, with some applications also demanding clinical trials, in order to validate their molecular target, mechanism of action, effective dose, potential adverse effects, as well as other fundamental parameters. Here we go through the pitfalls for a toxin-based potential therapeutic drug to become eligible for clinical trials and marketing. The manuscript also presents an overview of the current picture for several molecules from different animal venoms and poisons (such as those from amphibians, cone snails, hymenopterans, scorpions, sea anemones, snakes, spiders, tetraodontiformes, bats, and shrews) that have been used in clinical trials. Advances and perspectives on the therapeutic potential of molecules from other underexploited animals, such as caterpillars and ticks, are also reported. The challenges faced during the lengthy and costly preclinical and clinical studies and how to overcome these hindrances are also discussed for that drug candidates going to the bedside. It covers most of the drugs developed using toxins, the molecules that have failed and those that are currently in clinical trials. The article presents a detailed overview of toxins that have been used as therapeutic agents, including their discovery, formulation, dosage, indications, main adverse effects, and pregnancy and breastfeeding prescription warnings. Toxins in diagnosis, as well as cosmeceuticals and atypical therapies (bee venom and leech therapies) are also reported. The level of cumulative and detailed information provided in this review may help pharmacists, physicians, biotechnologists, pharmacologists, and scientists interested in toxinology, drug discovery, and development of toxin-based products.

The protective effects of β-sitosterol and vermicularin from Thamnolia vermicularis (Sw.) Ach. against skin aging in vitro

Aged skin, featured with dryness and wrinkles, has received mounting attention due to its adverse influences on beauty. β-Sitosterol and vermicularin are two common active ingredients of Thamnolia vermicularis (Sw.) Ach., a traditional Chinese medicine, of which the anti-aging effect has been discovered. Their protective performance against skin aging was assayed by co-culturing with skin cells in this work. Results showed that β-sitosterol promoted the biosynthesis of hyaluronic acid by increasing the expression of hyaluronic acid synthases in fibroblasts and enhanced the expression of skin barrier functional proteins including aquaporin 3, loricrin, filaggrin and involucrin in keratinocytes, which conduced to the moisture retention within skin. Moreover, vermicularin might function as an anti-wrinkle agent by preventing the loss of collagen type I. Specifically, vermicularin reduced the amount of reactive oxygen species within hydrogen-peroxide-induced fibroblasts; together with suppressing the activation of mitogen-activated protein kinases, it could inhibit the production of matrix metalloproteinases-1. The present research will contribute to the development of the compounds as anti-aging ingredients for future applications in cosmetic formulations and functional food as well as promote further studies of raw materials containing alike compounds.

Application of Deep Eutectic Solvents to Prepare Mixture Extracts of Three Long-Lived Trees with Maximized Skin-Related Bioactivities

This study aims to apply deep eutectic solvents (DESs) as safe and efficient extraction media that could yield maximized skin-related bioactivities from a mixture of long-lived trees. Ginkgo biloba L., Cinnamomum camphora (L.) J. Presl., and Cryptomeria japonica (L.f.) D. Don, native to Asia, were examined as potential resources of cosmeceutical products. Various DESs synthesized from cosmetics-compatible compounds were used to prepare leaf extracts. A DES containing glycerol and xylitol yielded the highest extractability for isoquercetin, and was selected as the optimal solvent. Isoquercetin has various bioactivities and was found in the extracts of the leaves of all three trees. Then, a series of mixtures of the tree leaves were prepared according to a simplex-centroid mixture design, and their DES-extracts were tested for skin-related activities, including antioxidant, anti-tyrosinase, and anti-elastase activities. The mixture design resulted in two special cubic models and one quadratic model best fitted for describing the antioxidant and anti-elastase activities, and the anti-tyrosinase activity, respectively. Based on the established models, three different optimal formulations of the three kinds of tree leaves were suggested for maximized responses. The present strategy, which is based on the simplex-centroid mixture design with a DES as the extraction solvent, could be applied to developing new materials from a mixture of natural resources, suitable for the cosmetics and related fields.

Antiaging Cosmeceuticals in Korea and Open Innovation in the Era of the 4th Industrial Revolution: From Research to Business

The importance of the healthcare industry has increased and it has thrived, although the cosmetic industry of Korea has been in depression. A recently issued group of items in Korea, ‘cosmeceuticals’, is defined as a combination of pharmaceuticals and cosmetics proven to have medical effectiveness. Antiaging cosmeceuticals in Korea have performed well in terms of expanding business by combining with beauty services, so they are viewed as high-valued items. This fact supports the evidence that there are various studies on cosmeceuticals. Therefore, this paper shows that the global status and growth potential of cosmeceuticals are documented and the concepts of the application of the demonstration complex and open innovation will be linked together based on research of antiaging cosmeceuticals in Korea for an aging society. This paper intends to provide the basic information for forming a ‘lab to market’ which connects the future cosmeceutical laboratory to the market.