Well-aging: A new strategy for skin homeostasis under multi-stressed conditions

Applying cosmetic oil with added aromatic compounds improves tactile sensitivity and skin properties

Tactile sensitivity generally decreases with aging and is associated with impairments in skin properties. Products that hydrate the skin can combat touch deficits and aromatic compounds have been shown to improve skin mechanical properties. Thus, we tested a base cosmetic oil against a perfumed oil, applied to the skin of females aged 40-60 years, on tactile sensitivity and skin properties after repeated application. Tactile detection thresholds were assessed using calibrated monofilaments applied at the index finger, palm, forearm, and cheek. Spatial discrimination on the finger was assessed using pairs of plates with different inter-band spaces. These tests were performed before and after 1 month of base or perfumed oil use. We found that tactile detection thresholds and spatial discrimination improved only in perfumed oil group. A complementary immunohistological study using human skin was conducted to estimate the expression of olfactory receptor OR2A4 and elastic fiber length. Further, the expression of OR2A4 intensity and the length of elastic fibers increased significantly with oil application, where larger effects were seen with the perfumed oil. We conclude that the application of a perfumed oil may be of additional benefit and could repair, and even prevent, tactile decline with aging by ameliorating skin condition.

The Clinical Evidence-Based Paradigm of Topical Anti-Aging Skincare Formulations Enriched with Bio-Active Peptide SA1-III (KP1) as Collagen Modulator: From Bench to Bedside

A substantial reduction in the amount and quality of collagen leads to age-related deterioration of the elasticity and firmness of the skin. In recent years, multiple compounds have been developed aimed at reversing the molecular features of dermal aging. One such target for aging reversal is collagen degradation or turnover. SA1-III is a decapeptide (Ac-Met-Gly-Lys-Val-Val-Asn-Pro-Thr-Gln-Lys-NH₂), also known as KP1, formally derived from the C-terminal portion of serpin A1, an agent known as a physiological inhibitor of neutrophil elastase, and has been the subject of laboratory and clinical studies determining its effects on modulation of collagen turnover as well as the treatment of age-associated changes of the face. This review aims to provide a bio-inspired approach focusing on the latest scientific studies that describe the compound, as well as a comprehensive appraisal of laboratory and clinical tests on skincare formulations enriched with sA1-III.

Circulating Exosomal miR-493-3p Affects Melanocyte Survival and Function by Regulating Epidermal Dopamine Concentration in Segmental Vitiligo

Circulating exosomal microRNAs have been used as potential biomarkers for various disorders. However, to date, the microRNA expression profile of circulating exosomes in patients with segmental vitiligo (SV) has not been identified. Thus, we aimed to identify the expression profile of circulating exosomal microRNAs and investigate their role in the pathogenesis of SV. Our study identified the expression profile of circulating exosomal microRNAs in SV and selected miR-493-3p as a candidate biomarker whose expression is significantly increased in circulating exosomes and perilesions in patients with SV. Circulating exosomes were internalized by human primary keratinocytes and increased dopamine secretion in vitro. Furthermore, miR-493-3p overexpression in keratinocytes increased dopamine concentration in the culture supernatant, which led to a significant increase in ROS and melanocyte apoptosis as well as a decrease in melanocyte proliferation and melanin synthesis in the coculture system by targeting HNRNPU. We also confirmed that HNRNPU could bind to and regulate COMT, a major degradative enzyme of dopamine. Hence, circulating exosomal miR-493-3p is a biomarker for SV, and the miR-493-3p/HNRNPU/COMT/dopamine axis may contribute to melanocyte dysregulation in the pathogenesis of SV.

Royal Jelly Protects against Epidermal Stress through Upregulation of the NQO1 Expression

Royal jelly (RJ) is secreted by honeybees and has been used as an apitherapy to obtain healthy skin since ancient times. However, the mechanism of the protective effects of RJ against skin aging and skin diseases caused by skin stress and its components have not been clarified. In this study, we attempted to understand the effect of RJ on epidermal function and observed that NAD(P)H quinone dehydrogenase 1 (NQO1) is significantly induced by RJ in keratinocytes. The expression of NQO1 was also increased in the 3D epidermal skin model. NQO1 is involved in antioxidation and detoxification metabolism, and we found that RJ protects against the epidermal stress caused by UVB and menadione through the upregulation of NQO1. We identified 10-hydroxy-2-decenoic acid (10H2DA), a major fatty acid in RJ, as an active compound in this reaction as it induced the expression of NQO1 and protected the skin against oxidative stress. We demonstrated that the protective effect of RJ against epidermal stress is mediated through the upregulation of NQO1 by 10H2DA.

Neurocosmetics in Skincare—The Fascinating World of Skin–Brain Connection: A Review to Explore Ingredients, Commercial Products for Skin Aging, and Cosmetic Regulation

The “modern” cosmetology industry is focusing on research devoted to discovering novel neurocosmetic functional ingredients that could improve the interactions between the skin and the nervous system. Many cosmetic companies have started to formulate neurocosmetic products that exhibit their activity on the cutaneous nervous system by affecting the skin’s neuromediators through different mechanisms of action. This review aims to clarify the definition of neurocosmetics, and to describe the features of some functional ingredients and products available on the market, with a look at the regulatory aspect. The attention is devoted to neurocosmetic ingredients for combating skin stress, explaining the stress pathways, which are also correlated with skin aging. “Neuro-relaxing” anti-aging ingredients derived from plant extracts and neurocosmetic strategies to combat inflammatory responses related to skin stress are presented. Afterwards, the molecular basis of sensitive skin and the suitable neurocosmetic ingredients to improve this problem are discussed. With the aim of presenting the major application of Botox-like ingredients as the first neurocosmetics on the market, skin aging is also introduced, and its theory is presented. To confirm the efficacy of the cosmetic products on the market, the concept of cosmetic claims is discussed.

A comprehensive review on ethnomedicine, phytochemistry, pharmacology, and toxicity of Tephrosia purpurea (L.) Pers

Tephrosia purpurea (L.) Pers. is a well-known plant in Ayurveda and named "Sarwa wranvishapaka" for its property to heal wounds. Traditionally, it is practiced for impotency, asthma, dyspepsia, hemorrhoids, syphilis gonorrhea, rheumatism, enlargement of kidney and spleen. It is an important component of herbal preparations like Tephroli and Yakrifti used to cure liver disorders. Various phytocompounds including pongamol, purpurin, purpurenone, tephrosin, bulnesol, tephrostachin, β-sitosterol, and so on have been reported. Modern pharmacological studies have shown that the plant have wound healing, antileishmanial, anticarcinogenic, antimicrobial, antioxidant, hepatoprotective, antifertility, antispermatogenic, anti-diarrheal, diuretic, and insecticidal properties. Acetylcholinesterase inhibitory action reported from this plant aids its utilization for the development of drugs for Alzheimer's and dementia neurological disorders. Among the known active compounds of T. purpurea, tephrostachin is responsible for antiplasmodial activity, tephrosin, pongaglabol, and semiglabrin exerts antiulcer activity while quercetin, rutin, β-sitosterol, and lupeol are mainly responsible for its anti-inflammatory and anti-cancer properties. From different toxicological studies, concentrations up to 2,000 mg/kg were considered safe. The present review comprehensively summarizes the ethnomedicine, phytochemistry, pharmacology, and toxicology of T. purpurea. Further research on elucidation of the structure-function relationship among active compounds, understanding of multi-target network pharmacology and clinical applications will intensify its therapeutic potential.

Well-aging: A new strategy for skin homeostasis under multi-stressed conditions

Background

Several studies evidenced significant increase of cortisol is the consequence of UV or emotional stress and leads to various deleterious effects in the skin.

Aim

The well‐aging, a new concept of lifestyle, procures an alternative to the anti‐aging strategy. We demonstrated that Tephrosia purpurea extract is able to stimulate well‐being hormones while reducing cortisol release. Furthermore, we hypothesized that the extract could positively influence the global skin homeostasis.

Method

We evaluated the impact of the extract on cortisol, β‐endorphin, and dopamine, released by normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEKs). A gene expression study was realized on NHEKs and NHDFs. The protein over‐expression of HMOX1 and NQO1 was evidenced at cellular and tissue level. Finally, we conducted a clinical study on 21 women living in a polluted environment in order to observe the impact of the active on global skin improvement.

Results

The extract is able to reduce significantly the cortisol release while inducing the production of β‐endorphin and dopamine. The gene expression study revealed that Tephrosia purpurea extract up‐regulated the genes involved in antioxidant response and skin renewal. Moreover, the induction of HMOX and NQO1 expression was confirmed on NHDFs, NHEKs and in RHE. We clinically demonstrated that the extract improved significantly the skin by reducing dark circles, represented by an improvement of L*, a*, and ITA parameters.

Conclusion

Tephrosia purpurea extract has beneficial effects on skin homeostasis through control of the well‐being state and antioxidant defenses leading to an improvement of dark circles, a clinical features particularly impacted by emotional and environmental stress.