An evaluation of the physicochemical parameters and the content of the active ingredients in original formulas containing retinol

Simultaneous Quantification of Vitamin A and Derivatives in Cosmetic Products by Liquid Chromatography with Ultraviolet Detection

Vitamin A (retinol) and some of its derivatives are a group of fat-soluble compounds used in cosmetic products as bioactive ingredients. Therefore, it is necessary to perform the quality control of final product to ensure their efficacy and safety. A simple and rapid method to determine retinol, retinal, retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate and retinyl palmitate in cosmetics is presented here. The method is based on vortex and/or ultrasound-assisted leaching of the analytes in ethanol followed by liquid chromatography with ultraviolet detection. The analytical performance of the method was evaluated. It has shown high levels of linearity, at least up to 100 µg mL−1; high precision with RSD values below 14% and high sensitivity with low MLODs ranging between 0.3 × 10−4 and 5.9 × 10−4 % w/w, which are enough to monitor these compounds in cosmetic products. The proposed method was successfully applied to seven commercial cosmetic samples to detect and quantify the target analytes, showing the method is suitable for its employment for quality control in cosmetic industries. Cosmetic samples were spiked at two levels of concentration and recovery values around 100% were obtained, showing no significant matrix effects and, therefore, external calibration was adequate for this determination.

Impact of Cooking Preparation on In Vitro Digestion of Eggs Simulating Some Gastrointestinal Alterations in Elders

This study aimed to in vitro assess the impact of the cooking process of eggs (hard-boiled, poached, and omelet) on nutrients digestibility and vitamins A and D3 bioaccessibility under elderly gastrointestinal (GI) conditions. Three elderly digestion models were mimicked: oral (E1); oral and gastric (E2); and oral, gastric, and intestinal (E3), and a healthy adult model (C). Proteolysis extent reduced after digestion of omelet under the E3 model (p < 0.05) (up to 37% of reduction). Thus, hard-boiled and poached were more recommendable to enhance protein digestibility in elders. Altered GI conditions negatively influence neither the absorbable lipid fraction nor the cholesterol stability. Finally, vitamin A bioaccessibility was not affected but D3 slightly decreased with the elderly (E3). Hence, the digestion of nutrients was dependent on the resulting matrix, poached being the greater supplier of protein and lipid end-digestion products. Poached and omelet, however, offer a high net supply of bioaccessible vitamin D3 for elders.

Retinoid stability and degradation kinetics in commercial cosmetic products

BACKGROUND

Retinoids as dermatological agents are effective against acne, psoriasis, skin aging, and other skin conditions. However, their susceptibility to degradation is a limiting factor for their widespread use.

OBJECTIVES

Within this study, we aimed to provide comprehensive and evidence-based information on retinoid stability and degradation kinetics in commercial cosmetics, focusing on different factors affecting their stability.

METHODS

A validated HPLC-UV methodology was utilized for determination of the most common retinoids in cosmetics (retinol, retinyl palmitate, β-carotene) and a newer promising retinoid (hydroxypinacolone retinoate). The stability of 16 retinoid derivatives in 12 commercial cosmetics was evaluated within 6 months of long-term and accelerated stability testing in addition to a one-week photostability study. Retinoid degradation in the tested formulations followed first-order kinetics, which was further applied to shelf-life prediction.

RESULTS

Long-term and accelerated stability testing revealed retinoid instabilities in almost all products, resulting in a 0%-80% decline after 6 months at 25°C and a 40%-100% decline at 40°C, which were kinetically evaluated. Light degradation was more pronounced than temperature-induced degradation. Among the studied retinoids, the stability of the newer hydroxypinacolone retinoate was the most prominent. This study also identifies correlations between retinoid concentrations, price, formulation, and their stability in cosmetics.

CONCLUSIONS

Retinoid instabilities were formulation-dependent and associated with lower contents than declared in some cosmetics. Retinoid chemical stability and physical stability in topical formulations need to be evaluated by real-time stability studies, instead of the more frequently used accelerated stability studies.