Essential oils used in dermocosmetics: Review about its biological activities

Exploring Phenolic Compounds in Crop By-Products for Cosmetic Efficacy

Phenolic compounds represent a group of secondary metabolites that serve essential functions in plants. Beyond their positive impact on plants, these phenolic metabolites, often referred to as polyphenols, possess a range of biological properties that can promote skin health. Scientific research indicates that topically using phenolics derived from plants can be advantageous, but their activity and stability highly depend on storage of the source material and the extraction method. These compounds have the ability to relieve symptoms and hinder the progression of different skin diseases. Because they come from natural sources and have minimal toxicity, phenolic compounds show potential in addressing the causes and effects of skin aging, skin diseases, and various types of skin damage, such as wounds and burns. Hence, this review provides extensive information on the particular crops from which by-product phenolic compounds can be sourced, also emphasizing the need to conduct research according to proper plant material storage practices and the choice of the best extracting method, along with an examination of their specific functions and the mechanisms by which they act to protect skin.

Preparation, Physicochemical Characterization, and Stability Study of Lippia origanoides Essential Oil-based Nanoemulsion as a Topical Delivery System

INTRODUCTION

Fungal diseases are a priority in research, development, and health care, according to the WHO, mainly due to Candida spp. Essential oils (EOs) of the genus Lippia have demonstrated broad antimicrobial biological activity. Previous studies identified the anti-Candida potential of a thymol/p-cymene chemotype EO from Lippia origanoides H.B.K coded "0018". Nanoemulsions favor the biological activity of EOs and overcome limitations such as low solubility, instability against oxidizing agents, pH, light, and low permeability. To develop, characterize, and adjust a prototype of an O/W nanoemulsion containing the "0018" EO from Lippia origanoides for its evaluation in an in vitro permeability study.

METHODS

Nanoemulsions were obtained using a high energy high shear method. Their particle size distribution, Z potential, viscosity, pH, encapsulation efficiency (EE), thermodynamic stability and the Turbiscan Stability Index (TSI) were evaluated. The nanoemulsion prototype was adjusted to improve performance characteristics and microbiological efficacy. Thymol was used as an analyte in the EO quantification using UHPLC-DAD.

RESULTS

An O/W nanoemulsion with hydrodynamic diameter <200 nm and polydispersity index <0.3, EE >95%, with TSI < 1.5, anti-Candida albicans efficiency >95% was obtained; permeable with a flow of 6.0264 μg/cm2/h and permeability coefficient of 1.3170x10-3 cm/h.

CONCLUSION

A pharmaceutical formulation prototype is obtained that maintains the physical and physicochemical characteristics over time. Permeability is verified in an in-vitro model. It is proposed to evaluate its antifungal activity in preclinical or clinical studies as a contribution to the treatment of topical fungal diseases caused by Candida spp., through the use of biological resources and Colombian biodiversity.

Stability Profile and Clinical Evaluation of an Innovative Hydrogel Containing Polymeric Micelles as Drug Delivery Systems with Oregano Essential Oil against Fibroepithelial Polyps

Skin tags, also known as fibroepithelial polyps (FPs) or acrochordons, are soft, pigmented excrescences, with a prevalence of 50-60% in the population, occurring especially in the fourth decade of life. To date, FPs have been efficiently eliminated using minimum invasive methods such as surgical removal, cauterization, laser irradiation, and cryosurgery. Over-the-counter treatments are also of interest for patients due to their non-invasive character, but their clinical efficiency has not been clearly demonstrated. This study was designed in order to evaluate the efficacy of a modern-pharmaceutical-formulation-type poloxamer-based binary hydrogel, having Origanum vulgare L. essential oil (OEO-PbH) as an active ingredient in the management of FPs. The formulation has been shown to possess good qualities in terms of stability and sterility. Non-invasive measurements revealed changes in some physiological skin parameters. An increase in transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and erythema index was noted, while skin surface water content (SWC) decreased during eight weeks of treatment. The macroscopic evaluation revealed that the FPs dried and shrunk after topical treatment with OEO-PbH. Clinically, patients presented a lowering of the number of lesions on the treated area of 20-30% after one month of treatment and around 50% after the second month. Histopathological examination suggests that topical treatment with OEO-PbH may induce histological changes in the epidermis, dermis, and fibrovascular cores of FPs, including a loss of thickness, reduced size and number of blood vessels, and low cellularity. These changes may contribute to the observed reduction in size of FPs after treatment with OEO-PbH.

Natural Compounds with Antimicrobial Properties in Cosmetics

Currently, the cosmetic industry is a very intensively growing part of the economy. Consumer demands are adapted to the current lifestyle, which is based on technological innovations and awareness of the impact of various factors on human health and fitness. There is growing interest in cosmetics based on environmentally friendly natural compounds exerting health-promoting effects. Chemicals with antimicrobial properties used as ingredients in cosmetics ensure their durability and safety. Polyphenolic compounds, peptides, essential oils, and plant extracts characterized by these properties are natural ingredients that can replace synthetic components of cosmetics. The advantage of these compounds is that they exhibit antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and soothing properties, enhancing the product value in addition to their antimicrobial properties. This review article describes the antimicrobial properties of natural compounds that can protect cosmetics and can replace previously used preservative agents. Various studies indicate that the use of these compounds increases consumer interest in these products and has a positive impact on the environment.

Development and Characterization of Thermal Water Gel Comprising Helichrysum italicum Essential Oil-Loaded Chitosan Nanoparticles for Skin Care

Helichrysum italicum essential oil (H. italicum EO) is recognized for its anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and wound-healing properties. The main goal of the present work was the development and characterization of a gel formulation comprising H. italicum EO loaded in chitosan nanoparticles (NPs) for dermatological applications. H. italicum EO-loaded chitosan NPs presented hydrodynamic diameter and PdI of about 300 nm and 0.28, respectively, and a surface charge of +19 mV. The H. italicum EO-loaded chitosan NPs were prepared by means of ionic gelation and then incorporated into a thermal water gel formulation. The organoleptic and physicochemical properties of the developed gel were studied. The gel remained stable under accelerated test conditions, maintaining pH, viscosity and organoleptic properties. In addition, the formulation presented pH, viscosity and spreadability properties suitable for topical application. Finally, the performance of the gel in topical application was evaluated on the skin of volunteers using non-invasive methods, particularly, by means of biometric evaluation. These assays showed that the properties of the developed thermal water-based gel formulation with H. italicum EO-loaded chitosan NPs can improve skin hydration and maintain healthy skin conditions, demonstrating its putative role for distinct dermatological applications.

Chemical Characterization and Bioactivity of Commercial Essential Oils and Hydrolates Obtained from Portuguese Forest Logging and Thinning

Essential oils (EOs) and hydrolates (Hds) are natural sources of biologically active ingredients with broad applications in the cosmetic industry. In this study, nationally produced (mainland Portugal and Azores archipelago) EOs (11) and Hds (7) obtained from forest logging and thinning of Eucalyptus globulus, Pinus pinaster, Pinus pinea and Cryptomeria japonica, were chemically evaluated, and their bioactivity and sensorial properties were assessed. EOs and Hd volatiles (HdVs) were analyzed by GC-FID and GC-MS. 1,8-Cineole was dominant in E. globulus EOs and HdVs, and α- and β-pinene in P. pinaster EOs. Limonene and α-pinene led in P. pinea and C. japonica EOs, respectively. P. pinaster and C. japonica HVs were dominated by α-terpineol and terpinen-4-ol, respectively. The antioxidant activity was determined by DPPH, ORAC and ROS. C. japonica EO showed the highest antioxidant activity, whereas one of the E. globulus EOs showed the lowest. Antimicrobial activity results revealed different levels of efficacy for Eucalyptus and Pinus EOs while C. japonica EO showed no antimicrobial activity against the selected strains. The perception and applicability of emulsions with 0.5% of EOs were evaluated through an in vivo sensory study. C. japonica emulsion, which has a fresh and earthy odour, was chosen as the most pleasant fragrance (60%), followed by P. pinea emulsion (53%). In summary, some of the studied EOs and Hds showed antioxidant and antimicrobial activities and they are possible candidates to address the consumers demand for more sustainable and responsibly sourced ingredients.