Adverse Effects of Do-It-Yourself Nail Cosmetics: A Literature Review

Background

As self-applied manicures have gained popularity, it is important for physicians to remain informed about potential associated side effects. Traditional polish remains most popular among nail enthusiasts, but the pursuit of durability and convenience accelerated development of other nail cosmetic products, including gel polish, acrylic nails, and press-on nails. Despite documented adverse effects among beauty professionals and salon customers, individuals practicing at-home nail care routines may face similar, if not more, frequent complications due to misinformation, inadequate training, and social media trends.

Summary

This review provides an overview of adverse effects associated with different at-home nail cosmetics. Allergic contact dermatitis is the most prevalent adverse event, primarily attributed to (meth)acrylates found in nail glue, gel polish, and acrylic nails. Other adverse effects include infections, chemical burns, and complications from ultraviolet nail lamps.

Key Message

The review highlights the importance of transparent product labeling and appropriate warning labels from manufacturers, as well as physician education and awareness for minimizing risks related to at-home nail cosmetic applications.

Exposome Impact on Nail Health

Background

The nail unit is a complex system with various components, each serving distinct functions. The exposome, encompassing external and internal factors such as UV radiation, air pollution, dietary habits, and cosmetic product usage, substantially influences nail health and can lead to premature nail aging.

Summary

Internal and external exposomal factors can impact differently on nail health, inducing a variety of different clinical conditions. Effective therapeutic strategies exist, but a comprehensive understanding of how the exposome affects nails is lacking. This article aims to bridge this knowledge gap by exploring the relationship between the exposome and nail health, emphasizing it as a central focus of our analysis.

Key Messages

(1) The exposome, comprising various external and internal factors, may significantly influence nail health negatively, leading to premature nail aging. (2) Different nail conditions may arise due to the exposomal influence on nails. (3) Understanding the exposome's impact on nail health is crucial for developing solutions to mitigate negative effects and improve overall nail well-being.

Sun protection, progress, myths, and inconsistencies (a proposal for the democratization of ISO 24443)

The concept of modern human sun protection is no more than one hundred years, but real development of it, including protection against UVA + UVB radiation (and more recently also the IR and blue light), has been no more than 30 years. One fundamental issue while formulating sunscreens is the photostability of the UV filters, which is particularly feeble for the UVA. The gold standard for the determination of sunscreen UVA protection "in vitro" is ISO 24443:2021. Still, interlaboratory results are not as consistent as expected. The Technical Committee for Cosmetics (ISO TC 217) has tried to standardize the method with precise specifications for the materials and equipment used. In particular, the standardization of UV exposure sources based on Xe arc lamps. This fact requires expensive equipment out of the reach of many laboratories to achieve adequate temperature control on the samples. In this paper, it will be shown that, within the experimental error, satisfactory results were achieved with a cheap commercial LED source irradiating only in the UVA spectra. Evidence is presented to conclude that other more relevant factors must be considered as the main cause of uncertainties.

Influence of UV nail lamps radiation on human keratinocytes viability

Ultraviolet nail lamps are becoming increasingly popular, however, the safety of their use remains controversial. The following article directly responds to recently published literature data and aims to determine the viability of human keratinocytes irradiated by a UV nail-drying machine. Cells were exposed to 365-405 nm wavelength UV light emitted by a nail drying machine in two time variants: 4 and 20 min, with and without sunscreen cream SPF50 protection, and compared to the untreated control. Compared to the control, cell viability after irradiation for 4 min decreased insignificantly (p < 0.1), however for 20 min decreased by 35% (p < 0.0001). Furthermore, cells with sunscreen protection compared to those without showed significantly increased viability, regardless of time-variant (p < 0.0001). The study shows that 4-min irradiation does not significantly reduce the viability of human keratinocytes and the time of 20 min significantly alters the research results compared to 4 min, which corresponds to real conditions. The results suggest that typical manicure exposure time does not significantly affect keratinocyte viability, which could increase the risk of developing skin cancers. Despite the above results, it is recommended to use sunscreen protection on your hands during the procedure, which significantly increases the viability of keratinocytes during ultraviolet nail lamp radiation.

A Photoreactor-Interfaced Mass Spectrometer: An Online Platform to Monitor Photochemical Reactions

An experimental platform is reported that allows for the online characterization of photochemical reactions by coupling a continuous flow photoreactor, equipped with LED light irradiation and a dual-tipped ESI source, directly to a mass spectrometer with electrospray ionization. The capabilities of this platform are demonstrated with two classes of photoreactions: (1) the photopolymerization of methyl methacrylate and (2) photocatalyzed alkyne insertion into a 1,2,3-benzotriazinone. The online technique provides rapid information to inform the underlying photochemical mechanism and evaluate the overall photochemistry.

Blue light exposure in the workplace: a case study of nail salons

Fluorescent or LED nail lamps are used in manicure and pedicure salons to cure nail coatings. These are UV sources, but with significant blue light emissions. Most of the literature emphasizes skin damage and cancer risk from UV exposure rather than blue light-induced damage to visual photoreceptors. Nail technicians using the lamps routinely may have potentially greater exposure than customers. However, there are no data on blue light radiance levels combined with time activity patterns for exposure assessment. This research aimed to determine exposures through simulation experiments, informed by observational studies in seven nail salons. Typical and worst-case time activity patterns were established, and spectral radiance doses determined in the occupational visual field for two LED nail curing lamps. The results showed the effective spectral radiance dose were below the current guideline promulgated by the International Commission on Non-Ionising Radiation Protection. Interestingly, radiances at the corners of one LED nail curing lamp was higher than at the center, which shows the amount of exposure can differ depending on the viewing angle. This research is the first to determine spectral radiance doses. A covered design is highly recommended for blocking the emission of blue light from a nail lamp.

Multiple Dorsal Hand Actinic Keratoses and Squamous Cell Carcinomas: A Unique Presentation following Extensive UV Nail Lamp Use

Squamous cell carcinoma (SCC) is the second most common skin cancer worldwide, and exposure to ultraviolet (UV) light is a major cause of SCC. UV nail lamps can be used for drying and hardening acrylic or gel nail polish. We report a case of a 52-year-old Caucasian woman with an 18-year history of UV nail lamp use every 3 weeks and an 18-year history of weekly tanning bed use who presented with over 25 actinic keratoses and two SCC in situ on her dorsal hands. Of note, this patient has never had any previous biopsies, skin cancer or precancers, or skin cancer or precancer treatment at any time in the past and on skin examination had no precancers or cancers elsewhere on her body. We also review the existing research regarding nail lamp use, which overall suggests that the risk of carcinogenesis is low, and discuss ways dermatologists can educate patients regarding proper UV nail lamp use to minimize risks. This patient's extensive UV nail lamp use coupled with UVA exposure from tanning beds may have put her at particular risk and exacerbated the effects of the nail lamp alone.

"Green" UV-LED gel nail polishes from bio-based materials

OBJECTIVE

Gel nail polishes represent an advanced class of nail polishes, with the ability to cure under ultraviolet (UV) radiation, and consequently demonstrate improved properties and greater durability compared to conventional nail polishes. Most gel nail polishes available today are based on petrochemical resources, making them unsustainable. Bio-based materials are excellent renewable resources, with high potential for meeting final-product performance, cost, and environmental needs. In addition, bio-based materials can be modified to make them amenable to being cured by advanced Light Emitting Diode (LED) resources that consume low energy and are safer for human exposure compared to conventional UV-mercury lamps. Consumer preference for use of products made from bio-based sources has been clearly growing. On the other hand, according to the U.S. Department of Energy (DOE) technology roadmap, a considerable amount of basic chemical building blocks should be derived from plant-based renewable materials in near future. However, to the best of our knowledge, bio-based nail products have not been sufficiently explored. Therefore, to keep pace with environmental regulations and consumer preference, there is an unmet opportunity to develop novel, sustainable nail gel polishes with considerable bio-renewable content. In this study, two sustainable UV-LED curable gel nail polish prototypes-one high-solids zero-volatile organic content (VOC) and the other waterborne, both with considerable bio-renewable content, were designed.

METHODS

Both formulations were cured under both UV-mercury and UV-LED radiation sources in order to evaluate their curing efficiency under a UV-LED source. Also, their performance was compared with a commercial petro-based benchmark.

RESULTS

The high-solids formulation demonstrated promising performance, exceeding that of the benchmark in opacity, chemical properties, gloss, and pendulum hardness, while the waterborne formulation met most of the desirable requirements with some significant technical benefits, including low odour and higher renewable raw material content.

CONCLUSION

These novel gel nail polishes are greener alternatives to the current products in the market with high potential for promising consumer acceptance.

Potential cutaneous carcinogenic risk of exposure to UV nail lamp: A review

The increased use of ultraviolet (UV) nail lamps in recent years has generated safety concerns of this device. A UV nail lamp is a source of artificial UVA radiation, often used to dry, harden, and cure the nails at home and in the salon. UVA radiation is known to be mutagenic and can cause damage to the DNA, resulting in cutaneous malignancy. Currently, there are only a few studies that have evaluated UV nail lamp irradiation and its potential carcinogenic risk. We review the literature on UV nail lamps, its safety, effect on nails and hands, and the potential role in increasing the risk of cutaneous malignancy. Based on available data, the carcinogenic risk is low; nonetheless, the use of a broad spectrum sunscreen with SPF >30 before UV nail lamp exposure is recommended.

Nail dryer devices: a measured spectral irradiance and labelling review

The use of nail dryer devices does not represent a critical risk. The expected erythemal doses are lower than that from surface solar radiation in summer months.