Novel confocal Raman microscopy method to investigate hydration mechanisms in human skin

Non-invasive assessment of skin hydration and sensation with diffuse reflectance spectroscopy

The skin is a vital organ in the human body, providing essential functions such as protection, sensation, and metabolism. Skin hydration is one of the crucial factors in maintaining normal skin function. Insufficient skin hydration can lead to dryness, shedding of the stratum corneum, a decrease in skin barrier function, and may cause skin inflammation. Therefore, maintaining or improving skin hydration is critical in promoting healthy skin. Currently, the commonly used method for measuring skin hydration is bioelectrical capacitance analysis, which is often affected by environmental humidity and can only provide limited information. To overcome these limitations, this study used diffuse reflectance spectroscopy (DRS) in the wavelength range of 400-1000 nm to quantify skin absorption and scattering modulation caused by changes in skin hydration states. The advantages of this technique include rapid measurements, non-invasiveness, a straightforward optical setup, and suitability for prolonged skin monitoring. We found that DRS-derived skin absorption coefficients had a correlation coefficient of 0.93 with the skin capacitance at various skin hydration states. In addition, our findings reveal that absorption and scattering coefficients may be useful in discerning skin hydration enhancement induced by applying soaked cotton pads or cosmeceutical facial masks, as well as evaluating skin sensation. This study verifies that the DRS method could be a convenient and effective tool for evaluating skin hydration related information.

Altered structure indicating reduced barrier function of lesional compared to non-lesional psoriatic skin-A non-invasive in vivo study of the human stratum corneum with confocal Raman micro-spectroscopy

Psoriasis, one of the most common skin diseases affecting roughly 2%-3% of the world population, is associated with a reduced skin barrier function (SBF) that might play an important role in its pathophysiology. The SBF is provided primarily by the stratum corneum (SC) of the skin. Previous studies have revealed a higher trans-epidermal water loss, lower hydration, abnormal concentration and composition of intercellular lipids, as well as alterations in secondary keratin structure in the psoriatic SC. We compared on molecular level lesional psoriatic skin (LPS) with non-lesional psoriatic skin (nLPS) from 19 patients non-invasively in vivo, using confocal Raman micro-spectroscopy. By analysing the corresponding Raman spectra, we determined SBF-defining parameters of the SC depth-dependently. Our results revealed a lower total lipid concentration, a shift of lamellar lipid organisation towards more gauche-conformers and an increase of the less dense hexagonal lateral packing of the intercellular lipids in LPS. Furthermore, we observed lower natural moisturising factor concentration, lower total water as well as a strong tendency towards less strongly bound and more weakly bound water molecules in LPS. Finally, we detected a less stable secondary keratin structure with increased β-sheets, in contrast to the tertiary structure, showing a higher degree of folded keratin in LPS. These findings clearly suggest structural differences indicating a reduced SBF in LPS, and are discussed in juxtaposition to preceding outcomes for psoriatic and healthy skin. Understanding the alterations of the psoriatic SC provides insights into the exact pathophysiology of psoriasis and paves the way for optimal future treatments.

Moisture retention of glycerin solutions with various concentrations: a comparative study

Various methods of evaluating a humectant's moisture retention have unique mechanisms. Hence, for designing advanced or efficient ingredients of cosmetic products, a clear understanding of differences among methods is required. The aim of this study was to analyze the moisture-retention capacity of glycerin, a common ingredient in cosmetic products. Specifically, this study applied gravimetric analysis, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) analysis, and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) to examine the evaporation of glycerin solutions of different concentrations. The results revealed that the moisture-retention capacity of glycerin increased with the glycerin concentration from 0 to 60 wt%, and glycerin at concentration of 60-70 wt% did not exhibit weight change during the evaporation process. When the glycerin concentration exceeded 70 wt%, moisture sorption occurred in the glycerin solution. Furthermore, the results revealed a deviation between the evaporation rates measured using gravimetric analysis and those measured using TEWL analysis. However, normalizing the results of these analyses yielded the relative evaporation rates to water, which were consistent between these two analyses. DSC thermograms further confirmed the consistent results and identified two hydrated water microstructures (nonfreezable water and free water) in the glycerin solutions, which explained why the measured evaporation rate decreased with the glycerin concentration. These findings can be applied to prove the moisture-retention capacity of a humectant in cosmetic products by different measuring methods.

Raman spectroscopic analysis of skin penetration and moisturizing effects of Bionics vernix caseosa cream compared with Vaseline

BACKGROUND:

The stratum corneum (SC) is the outermost layer of human skin and deemed as barrier against chemical exposure and water loss. Moisturizers have beneficial effects in treating dry skin, especially the SC. Confocal Raman spectroscopy (CRS) was used to evaluate the efficacy of moisturizers on skin hydration and penetration, with such agents posing inherent characteristics of being noninvasive, nondestructive, timesaving, and cost effective. Bionics vernix caseosa (BVC) cream mimics the composition of vernix caseosa (VC), which could protect the newborn skin.

METHODS:

This research applied CRS to evaluate the penetration depth and water content variation during the intervention with two moisturizers, BVC cream and Vaseline. Volunteers received the 2 h application of BVC cream and Vaseline on the forearms. The evaluations on 0 h, 2 h, 4 h and 6 h were performed clinical assessment. Experimental data was processed by least square method and analysis of variance (ANOVA).

RESULTS:

The penetration depth of Vaseline was deeper than that of Bionics vernix caseosa cream. Specifically, BVC cream penetrated 18 μm into human skin, while Vaseline penetrated at least 20 μm. Compared with Vaseline, only BVC cream increased skin hydration, with a moisturizing effect lasting for 4 h. At 6 h, the Vaseline moisturizing effect decreased significantly.

Skin Barriers in Dermal Drug Delivery: Which Barriers Have to Be Overcome and How Can We Measure Them?

Although, drugs are required in the various skin compartments such as viable epidermis, dermis, or hair follicles, to efficiently treat skin diseases, drug delivery into and across the skin is still challenging. An improved understanding of skin barrier physiology is mandatory to optimize drug penetration and permeation. The various barriers of the skin have to be known in detail, which means methods are needed to measure their functionality and outside-in or inside-out passage of molecules through the various barriers. In this review, we summarize our current knowledge about mechanical barriers, i.e., stratum corneum and tight junctions, in interfollicular epidermis, hair follicles and glands. Furthermore, we discuss the barrier properties of the basement membrane and dermal blood vessels. Barrier alterations found in skin of patients with atopic dermatitis are described. Finally, we critically compare the up-to-date applicability of several physical, biochemical and microscopic methods such as transepidermal water loss, impedance spectroscopy, Raman spectroscopy, immunohistochemical stainings, optical coherence microscopy and multiphoton microscopy to distinctly address the different barriers and to measure permeation through these barriers in vitro and in vivo.

Collagen Hydrolysates for Skin Protection: Oral Administration and Topical Formulation

Antioxidants are molecules that delay or inhibit the oxidation of other molecules. Its use significantly increased in recent years in the diet of people. Natural antioxidants are replacing the use of synthetic antioxidant ingredients due to their safety, nutritional, and therapeutic values. Hydrolyzed collagen (HC) is a popular ingredient considered to be an antioxidant. This low molecular weight protein has been widely utilized due to its excellent biocompatibility, easy biodegradability, and weak antigenicity. It is a safe cosmetic biomaterial with good moisturizing properties on the skin. The antioxidant properties of HC are conditioned to the size of the molecule: the lower the molecular weight of peptides, the greater the ability to donate an electron or hydrogen to stabilize radicals. The antioxidant capacity of HC is mostly due to the presence of hydrophobic amino acids in the peptide. The exact mechanism of peptides acting as antioxidants is not clearly known but some aromatic amino acids and histidine are reported to play an important role in the antioxidant activity. Oral ingestion of HC increases the levels of collagen-derived peptides in the blood torrent and improves the skin properties such as elasticity, skin moisture, and transepidermal water loss. Additionally, daily intakes of HC protect the skin against UV melasma, enhances the fibroblast production and extracellular matrix of the skin. HC has been identified as a safe cosmetic ingredient for topical formulations with good moisturizing properties at the stratum corneum layer of the skin. It reduces the effects of skin aging (dryness, laxity, and wrinkles). The use of HC as a principal ingredient in safe formulations for skin protection was reviewed and compared when it is used by topical and/or oral administration.

Imaging and quantifying drug delivery in skin - Part 2: Fluorescence andvibrational spectroscopic imaging methods

Understanding the delivery and diffusion of topically-applied drugs on human skin is of paramount importance in both pharmaceutical and cosmetics research. This information is critical in early stages of drug development and allows the identification of the most promising ingredients delivered at optimal concentrations to their target skin compartments. Different skin imaging methods, invasive and non-invasive, are available to characterize and quantify the spatiotemporal distribution of a drug within ex vivo and in vivo human skin. The first part of this review detailed invasive imaging methods (autoradiography, MALDI and SIMS). This second part reviews non-invasive imaging methods that can be applied in vivo: i) fluorescence (conventional, confocal, and multiphoton) and second harmonic generation microscopies and ii) vibrational spectroscopic imaging methods (infrared, confocal Raman, and coherent Raman scattering microscopies). Finally, a flow chart for the selection of imaging methods is presented to guide human skin ex vivo and in vivo drug delivery studies.