Self‐recording the skin hydration and Trans‐Epidermal Water Loss parameters: A pilot study

Video-based paired comparison to evaluate some cosmetic products under camera movement for dynamic performance

OBJECTIVE

Until now, standardized evaluation of cosmetic effects was conducted mainly in still conditions such as pictures. In real life, the consumers' experience of their cosmetics' effects is dynamic and some of the benefits can be better observed under movement. In order to capture motion-related performance of cosmetics, we developed a video-based paired comparison on an online platform.

METHODS

We validated this new tool through the evaluation of eyeshadow with high light reflection and colour gradation, especially visible under motion according to the observer point of view. This formula was compared with two marketed benchmarks. The three products were applied sequentially on the eyelid of eight Japanese women. Videos were taken in standardized light, speed and face position with a rotating camera around the face. The videos were uploaded on an online secured platform and eyelid 3D effect, highlight and colour gradation were evaluated through paired comparison test by 60 Japanese women from home on their PC or tablets. Those results were compared with picture-based paired comparison by the same observers.

RESULTS

Video-based paired comparison provided higher discrimination of products compared to picture-based comparison.

CONCLUSION

As compared to still camera acquisition, the evaluation of cosmetics based on videos is closer to real-life experience and can bring higher discrimination, especially for motion-related attributes.

Devices measuring transepidermal water loss: A systematic review of measurement properties

OBJECTIVE

The objective of this review is to examine the reliability and measurement error of devices that measure transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

INTRODUCTION

TEWL is a physiological property of skin which increases when the epidermis is damaged. It is, therefore, a commonly utilised measure of skin barrier integrity. Devices measuring TEWL are available as open, semi-open or closed chamber. Studies of reliability examine the consistency of measurement, and/or responsiveness whereas measurement error scores in absolute terms the amount of error due to sources of variation.

INCLUSION CRITERIA

Studies examining the reliability and/or measurement error of TEWL measurement devices were included. Studies that only report on measurement of TEWL outcomes without examination of reliability and/or measurement error were excluded.

METHODS

The search strategy aimed to locate published and unpublished studies. Databases searched included PubMed, Embase, CINAHL and Web of Science, utilising identified keywords and limited to studies in English. Grey literature sources were searched to identify any unpublished documents. Study selection using the inclusion criteria was then assessed by two reviewers for methodological quality utilising the COnsensus-based Standards for the selection of health Measurement INstruments (COSMIN) risk of bias tool to assess the reliability and measurement error of outcome measurement instruments.

RESULTS

A total of 22 devices were examined in the 38 included studies. The quality of study design was on average rated as 'Adequate' however reliability and measurement error statistical methods were on average rated as 'Doubtful'.

DISCUSSION AND CONCLUSION

TEWL measurement devices were found to demonstrate good reliability and frequently correlated with other devices. However, measurement error was highly variable but improves under in vitro conditions. Future research should consider risk of bias factors when designing studies.

Skin moisture assessment using Hydration Sensor Patches coupled with smartphones via Near Field Communication (NFC). A pilot study with the first generation of patches that allow self-recordings of skin hydration

OBJECTIVES

To evaluate the potency of a new skin hydration sensor patch in the fast self-recording of skin hydration.

MATERIAL AND METHODS

The Skin Hydration Sensor Patch (SHSP) turns the user's smartphone into a wireless skin moisture measuring device. The SHSP combines a capacitive measurement unit and Near Field Communication technology (NFC) for transmitting data and energy. The probe is fixed onto the back of the smartphone and pressed to the skin for a few seconds where the application immediately calculates the capacitance value. Once recorded, the probe is then immediately taken off from the skin. In a first study, this system was compared to the Corneometer^® technique, in vivo, on various skin sites of 23 healthy French women. In a second study, 20 women with moderate dry skin on face and forearm self-recorded, through the SHSP the changes in skin hydration induced by a Xanthan gel containing 3% (w/w) of Glycerol, along 24 hours. A questionnaire based on 5 types of questions was established to be filled by subjects about their perception of the use of this new system.

RESULTS

In the first study, the values recorded by the SHSP were found highly correlated with those provided by the Corneometer^® . The second study allowed to observe significant differences in skin hydration of both sites at all times, as compared to values obtained before the application of the gel. Differences between both sites were observed, the face being less hydrated than forearm. From a practical aspect, the self-recordings on the face show a higher variability (approx. 10% than those of the forearm). The questionnaire led to positive answers on almost all points.

CONCLUSION

This SHSP appears as a promising approach in the field of connected skin-related devices. As such, it opens or enlarges a new paradigm in the relationships between a consumer and a cosmetic product.

Comparing the self-perceived effects of a facial anti-aging product to those automatically detected from selfie images of Chinese women of different ages and cities

OBJECTIVE

To assess the agreement, after 1-month application of a popular and efficient anti-aging product, between self-perceived facial signs of aging and those detected and graded by an automatic A.I-based system, using smartphones' selfie images.

MATERIAL AND METHODS

Of 1065 Chinese women, aged 18-60 years, from eight different Chinese cities were recruited. They were asked to apply daily, for 1 month, a referential anti-aging product onto their whole face. Selfie images were taken by all subjects at D₀ and D₂₈ and sent to our facilities for being analyzed through 10 different facial signs. At D₂₈ , all subjects were asked to fill a questionnaire on the status of their faces, through six general statements.

RESULTS

A global agreement between both approaches is reached, particularly among women older than 40 years where the severity of facial signs is already more pronounced or among younger women who present at least facial signs scored above one grading units. This limit becomes, therefore, a prerequisite in the recruitment of Chinese subjects in the case of anti-aging applied studies and possible automatically based on automatic grading system. When respecting such conditions, the positive effects of the product on most facial signs can be demonstrated after 28 days of successive applications.

CONCLUSION

Such methodological approach paves the road in fulfilling the need of consumers of a better transparency in the claims of an anti-aging product.

Changes in facial signs due to age and their respective weights on the perception of age and skin plumpness among differently aged Korean women

OBJECTIVE

To determine the respective weights of certain facial signs on the assessment of perceived age and plumpness on Korean women of different ages.

MATERIAL AND METHODS

Photographs were taken of the faces of 112 Korean women of different ages (18-80 years) under standardized conditions. These photographs allowed to focus and define 19 facial signs, which were then graded by 15 experts and dermatologists, using standardized scales provided by a reference Skin Aging Atlas. The facial signs were dispatched into 5 clusters, namely Wrinkles/Texture, Ptosis/Sagging, Pigmentation disorders, Vascular disorders, and Cheek skin pores. A naïve panel, composed of 92 Korean women, of similar age range were asked, when viewing full-face photographs, to: (a) attribute on a 0-10 scale their perception of the skin plumpness (ie supple/hydrated/nourished) and (b) estimate the age of the subject.

RESULTS

With the exception of Vascular disorders, the severity of all 4 clusters increased with age, although at different rates. The Wrinkles/Texture or Ptosis/Sagging showed a rather regular progression. Although perceived ages and real ages were found highly correlated, half of the subjects were judged older by 2-12 years. The facial signs/clusters were significantly correlated with perceived age, with the exceptions of vascular disorders, size of pigmentary spots and cheek skin pores. The weights in perceived ages of Wrinkles/Texture and Ptosis/Sagging represent 37% each and Pigmentation disorders at 26%. Skin plumpness was logically found significantly anti-correlated with perceived age. If, surprisingly, Vascular disorders were found not impacting the plumpness aspect, Cheek skin pores presented a clear influence.

CONCLUSION

Within facial clinical clusters, Wrinkles/Texture, Ptosis/Sagging, and Pigmentation disorders are major factors in the assessment of perceived age in Korean women. The perception of a decreased skin plumpness is significantly associated with increased perceived age.

A Split-Face Study Assessing the Clinical Benefit, Tolerability and Subject Satisfaction of a Dermocosmetic in Subjects with Rosacea Associated with Erythema and Sensitive Skin

Objective

This study assessed the efficacy and tolerability of M89 in patients with rosacea associated with erythema and sensitive skin.

Methods

Intra-individual study in a split-face design comparing after 30 days M89 twice daily and usual skin care in 20 adult subjects with rosacea and sensitive skin. M89 contains 89% Vichy volcanic mineralizing water (VVMW) and 0.4% hyaluronic acid. It is hypoallergenic and contains no perfume and this convenes in rosacea. Contained minerals reinforce the natural defences of the skin in restoring the natural skin barrier, stimulating antioxidant activity and reducing inflammation, commonly observed in subjects with rosacea. Clinical evaluations included assessment of erythema, desquamation, papules and pustules, skin tightness, dryness, burning sensation, itching, stinging and stinging test as well as local tolerability. Instrumental evaluations included skin hydration and TEWL. Subject satisfaction was assessed at Days 15 and 30. Demodex density was assessed at Day 30.

Results

A significant superiority of M89 over the standard skin care was observed for erythema, skin tightness and dryness (all P≤0.05) as early as Day 15, the skin stinging test was significantly in favour of M89 (P<0.05 at Day 15 and P<0.01 at Day 30) and for skin hydration (P<0.0001) at Day 15 and 30 with no difference in mean Demodex density between M89 and usual skin care after 30 days. Tolerance was excellent and subject satisfaction very high.

Conclusion

Study results concerning M89 are encouraging for its use either alone or as an adjuvant daily skin care to topical medication in patients with persistent centrofacial erythema of rosacea with no more than 3 papules and pustules.