Lipid distribution on ethnic hairs by Fourier transform infrared synchrotron spectroscopy

Spectral histology of hair and hair follicle using infrared microspectroscopy

OBJECTIVE

Today, there is only limited knowledge of the spatial organization of hair chemistry. Infrared microspectroscopy is a well-established tool to provide such information and has significantly contributed to this field. In this study, we present new results combining multiple infrared microspectroscopy methods at different length scales to create a better chemical histology of human hair, including the hair follicle, hair shaft, hair medulla and hair cuticle.

METHODS

We used hyperspectral IR imaging & spectroscopy (HIRIS) and synchrotron-radiation FTIR microspectroscopy (SR-μFTIR) to measure transversal hair sections and SR-μFTIR to obtain high-resolution maps of longitudinal sections from the hair shaft and from the hair follicle. We used optical photothermal IR microspectroscopy (OPTIR) to analyse the cuticle surface of intact hairs.

RESULTS

By mapping longitudinal sections of the human hair follicle with confocal SR-μFTIR, we report the first demonstration of glycogen presence in the outer root sheath of the hair follicle by spectroscopy, and its quantification at the micron scale. Spectral maps, combined with machine learning-based analysis, enabled us to differentiate the various layers of the hair follicle and provided insights into the chemical changes that occur during hair formation in the follicle. Using HIRIS and SR-μFTIR to analyse the hair medulla in transversal sections of human hairs, we report here, for the first time by vibrational spectroscopy methods, the detection of unsaturated lipids at very low concentrations in the medulla. By analysing longitudinal sections of the hair shaft with SR-μFTIR, we found that calcium carboxylates are present in large regions of the hair cuticle, and not just in small focal areas as previously thought. We then use OPTIR to analyse the hair cuticle of intact hairs at submicron resolution without sectioning and report the distribution of calcium carboxylates at the surface of intact hair for the first time.

CONCLUSION

These new findings illustrate the potential of infrared microspectroscopy for imaging the chemical composition of human hair and may have implications for biomedical research or cosmetology.

Quantifying the effects of repeated dyeing: Morphological, mechanical, and chemical changes in human hair fibers

As hair dyeing gains popularity across all age groups, concerns about the potential damage caused by chemical treatments are also on the rise. Chemical dyes have a multifaceted impact on hair fibers, affecting their morphology, physical structure, and protein composition. In a comprehensive study, we investigated the alterations in morphological and mechanical properties, as well as the chemical composition of hair fibers following continuous dyeing. Our analysis employed various techniques, including atomic force microscopy (AFM), Fourier transform infrared (FT-IR) spectroscopy, and tensile strength measurements. To assess the cumulative damage resulting from repeated dyeing, we progressively increased the number of dyeing up to 10. Surprisingly, even a single dyeing session inflicted noticeable harm on the hair. However, the detrimental effects escalated significantly when hair underwent three or more consecutive dye treatments. While the mechanical properties and protein composition exhibited non-linear changes with increasing the number of dyeing, we observed that nanoscale damage to the cuticle surface intensified proportionally with the number of dyeing. These results highlight the critical need to consider the impacts of hair dyeing practices on both the health and the structural integrity of hair.

Strain and Strain Recovery of Human Hair from the Nano- to the Macroscale

In this study, in operandi SAXS experiments were conducted on samples of human hair with a varying degree of strain (2% within the elastic region and 10% beyond). Four different features in the SAXS patterns were evaluated: The intermediate filament distance perpendicular to and the distance from the meridional arc in the load direction, as well as the distances of the lipid bilayer peak in and perpendicular to the load direction. From the literature, one concludes that polar lipids in the cuticle are the origin of the lipid peak in the SAXS pattern, and this study shows that the observed strain in the lipids is much lower than in the intermediate filaments. We support these findings with SEM micrographs, which show that the scales in the cuticle deform much less than the cortex. The observed deformation of the intermediate filaments is very high, about 70% of the macrostrain, and the ratio of the transverse strain to the longitudinal strain at the nanoscale gives a Poisson ratio of νnano = 0.44, which is typical for soft matter. This work also finds that by varying the time period between two strain cycles, the typical strain recovery time is about 1000 min, i.e., one day. After this period, the structure is nearly identical to the initial structure, which suggests an interpretation that this is the typical time for the self-healing of hair after mechanical treatment.