Effect of Cold-Water Immersion on Handgrip Performance in Rock Climbers

Changing Horses in Midstream: Modern Pentathlon After the 2024 Olympic Games

The decision of the Union Internationale de Pentathlon Moderne to replace horse riding with Obstacle after the 2024 Olympic Games challenges training, testing, and recovery management in Modern Pentathlon. This commentary discusses physiological, technical, and tactical effects of rule changes in the 5 disciplines with a specific focus on the new discipline Obstacle. Modern Pentathlon requires athletes to develop specific endurance capacities relying on both the aerobic and anaerobic systems while simultaneously increasing lower- and upper-body strength capabilities. In addition, movements must be repeatedly executed in an explosive and precise manner. Running and swimming must be fast but economical. Swapping from horse riding to Obstacle will prioritize the explosive strength of the upper extremities and core while keeping high levels of endurance and precision in swimming, fencing, and shooting. Moreover, condensing the Modern Pentathlon competition to a 90-minute television-friendly format enables more competitions in the future. Athletes and coaches will thus also need to develop and maintain effective individual peri-exercise routines (before, during, and after the competition) to successfully meet the resulting tactical and physical challenges of the new format. This commentary aims to stimulate the discussion on the effect of the Union Internationale de Pentathlon Moderne's decisions to replace riding with the new Obstacle discipline and implement a more television-friendly format with a focus on physiological, technical, and tactical aspects.

Muscle Cooling Before and in the Middle of a Session: There Are Benefits on Subsequent Localized Endurance Performance in a Warm Environment

ABSTRACT

Baláš, J, Kodejška, J, Procházková, A, Knap, R, and Tufano, JJ. Muscle cooling before and in the middle of a session: there are benefits on subsequent localized endurance performance in a warm environment. J Strength Cond Res 38(3): 533-539, 2024-Localized cold-water immersion (CWI) has been shown to facilitate recovery in the middle of a session of exhaustive repeated forearm contractions. However, it has been suggested that these benefits may be attributed to "precooling" the muscle before an activity, as opposed to cooling a previously overheated muscle. Therefore, this study aimed to determine how precooling and mid-cooling affects localized repeated muscular endurance performance in a warm environment. Nineteen subjects completed a familiarization session and 3 laboratory visits, each including 2 exhaustive climbing trials separated by 20 minutes of recovery: PRE CWI (CWI, trial 1; passive sitting [PAS], trial 2); MID CWI (PAS, trial 1; CWI, trial 2); and CONTROL (PAS, trial 1; PAS, trial 2). Climbing trial 1 in PRE CWI was 32 seconds longer than in CONTROL ( p = 0.013; d = 0.46) and 47 seconds longer than in MID CWI ( p = 0.001; d = 0.81). The time of climbing trial 2 after PAS (PRE CWI and CONTROL) was very similar (312 vs. 319 seconds) irrespective of the first trial condition. However, the time of the second trial in MID CWI was 43 seconds longer than in PRE CWI ( p < 0.001; d = 0.63) and 50 seconds longer than in CONTROL ( p < 0.001; d = 0.69). In warm environments, muscle precooling and mid-cooling can prolong localized endurance performance during climbing. However, the effectiveness of mid-cooling may not be as a "recovery strategy" but as a "precooling" strategy to decrease muscle temperature before subsequent performance, delaying the onset of localized heat-induced neuromuscular fatigue.

Recovery markers in elite climbers after the national boulder climbing championship

This study aimed to investigate recovery markers among elite climbers following the National Boulder Championship. We assessed maximum isometric hand grip strength (HS), forearm swelling (circumference), delayed soreness in forearm muscles, tiredness, and exercise readiness at several time points: pre-competition, immediately post-competition (within 4 min after their last effort), and 12, 24, 48, and 60 h post-competition. Maximum isometric hand grip strength decreased by 6.38 ± 1.32% (p = 0.006) post-12 h, returning to pre-competition values post-24 h (all p > 0.05). Forearm circumference (FC) increased 1.78 ± 1.77% (p < 0.001) post-competition, returning to pre-competition values post-12 h (all p > 0.05). Forearm pain (FP) increased post-competition (p = 0.002) and post-12 h (p < 0.001), returning to pre-competition values post-24 h (all p > 0.05). Tiredness increased post-competition (p < 0.001), post-12 h (p < 0.001), and post-24 h (p < 0.001), returning to pre-competition values post-48 h (all p > 0.05). Climbing readiness was reduced post-competition (p < 0.001), post-12 h (p < 0.001), post-24 h (p < 0.001), and post-48 h (p = 0.005), only returning to pre-competition values post-60 h (p = 0.189). Visual analysis of individual data pointed out a relatively small variability in the HS and FC markers, while FP, tiredness, and readiness exhibited larger individual variations. These findings indicate that different recovery patterns exist for the analyzed markers, suggesting that athletes may require up to 60 h after a competition to fully recover and regain their ability to face new competitive challenges.

Physical performance testing in climbing-A systematic review

Due to the increasing popularity of climbing, the corresponding diagnostics are gaining in importance for both science and practice. This review aims to give an overview of the quality of different diagnostic testing- and measurement methods for performance, strength, endurance, and flexibility in climbing. A systematic literature search for studies including quantitative methods and tests for measuring different forms of strength, endurance, flexibility, or performance in climbing and bouldering was conducted on PubMed and SPORT Discus. Studies and abstracts were included if they a) worked with a representative sample of human boulderers and/or climbers, b) included detailed information on at least one test, and c) were randomized-controlled-, cohort-, cross-over-, intervention-, or case studies. 156 studies were included into the review. Data regarding subject characteristics, as well as the implementation and quality of all relevant tests were extracted from the studies. Tests with similar exercises were grouped and the information on a) measured value, b) unit, c) subject characteristics (sex and ability level), and d) quality criteria (objectivity, reliability, validity) were bundled and displayed in standardized tables. In total, 63 different tests were identified, of which some comprised different ways of implementation. This clearly shows that there are no uniform or standard procedures in climbing diagnostics, for tests on strength, endurance or flexibility. Furthermore, only few studies report data on test quality and detailed information on sample characteristics. This not only makes it difficult to compare test results, but at the same time makes it impossible to give precise test recommendations. Nevertheless, this overview of the current state of research contributes to the creation of more uniform test batteries in the future.

Efficacy of Different Cold-Water Immersion Temperatures on Neuromotor Performance in Young Athletes

Cold-Water-Immersion (CWI) has been frequently used to accelerate muscle recovery and to improve performance after fatigue onset. In the present study, the aim was to investigate the effects of different CWI temperatures on neuromuscular activity on quadriceps after acute fatigue protocol. Thirty-six young athletes (16.9 ± 1.4 years-old; 72.1 ± 13.8 kg; 178.4 ± 7.2 cm) were divided into three groups: passive recovery group (PRG); CWI at 5 °C group (5G); and CWI at 10 °C group (10G). All participants performed a fatigue exercise protocol; afterwards, PRG performed a passive recovery (rest), while 5G and 10G were submitted to CWI by means of 5 °C and 10 °C temperatures during 10 min, respectively. Fatigue protocol was performed by knee extension at 40% of isometric peak force from maximal isometric voluntary contraction. Electromyography was used to evaluate neuromuscular performance. The passive recovery and CWI at 5 °C were associated with normalized isometric force and quadriceps activation amplitude from 15 until 120 min after exercise-induced fatigue (F = 7.169, p < 0.001). CWI at 5 °C and 10 °C showed higher muscle activation (F = 6.850, p < 0.001) and lower median frequency (MF) than passive recovery after 15 and 30 min of fatigue (F = 5.386, p < 0.001). For neuromuscular efficiency (NME) recovery, while PRG normalized NME values after 15 min, 5G and 10G exhibited these responses after 60 and 30 min (F = 4.330, p < 0.01), respectively. Passive recovery and CWI at 5 °C and 10 °C revealed similar effects in terms of recovery of muscle strength and NME, but ice interventions resulted in higher quadriceps activation recovery.

Effects of 2 Intersection Strategies for Physical Recovery in Jiu-Jitsu Athletes

PURPOSE

To compare the effect of static stretching (SS) and cold-water immersion (CWI) on strength performance and blood lactate levels of jiu-jitsu athletes.

METHODS

A total of 21 male Brazilian jiu-jitsu fighters were randomly assigned to SS (9 × 30-s carpal extension), CWI (3 × 3 min at 10°C), or a control group (CG); their maximal handgrip strength, handgrip muscle endurance, dynamic kimono grip strength test, and blood lactate concentration were assessed before and after a simulated Brazilian jiu-jitsu fight and after one of the recovery interventions.

RESULTS

There was an interaction (F = 9.075; P = .002) and a time effect (F = 11.792; P = .003) for dynamic kimono grip strength test, showing a decrease in performance for the CG (P = .0001; effect size [ES] = 0.52, moderate) and after SS (P = .006; ES = 0.43, small). There was an interaction (F = 3.592; P = .015) and a time effect (F = 122.631; P = .0001) for blood lactate concentration, showing lower levels after CWI versus CG (P = .028; ES = 0.93, moderate) and after CWI versus SS (P = .042; ES = 0.82, moderate). There was an interaction (F = 9.617; P = .001) for handgrip strength, showing an impairment in performance after SS (P = .001; ES = 0.67, moderate).

CONCLUSION

CWI promoted restoration of muscle strength and endurance and reduction in blood lactate levels after the simulated fight and can thus be used by jiu-jitsu athletes as a recovery strategy between fights.

Males benefit more from cold water immersion during repeated handgrip contractions than females despite similar oxygen kinetics

The purpose of the present study was to assess the effect of different water immersion temperatures on handgrip performance and haemodynamic changes in the forearm flexors of males and females. Twenty-nine rock-climbers performed three repeated intermittent handgrip contractions to failure with 20 min recovery on three separate laboratory visits. For each visit, a randomly assigned recovery strategy was applied: cold water immersion (CWI) at 8 °C (CW8), 15 °C (CW15) or passive recovery (PAS). While handgrip performance significantly decreased in the subsequent trials for the PAS (p < 0.05), there was a significant increase in time to failure for the second and third trial for CW15 and in the second trial for CW8; males having greater performance improvement (44%) after CW15 than females (26%). The results indicate that CW15 was a more tolerable and effective recovery strategy than CW8 and the same CWI protocol may lead to different recovery in males and females.

Local cryostimulation acutely preserves maximum isometric handgrip strength following fatigue in young women

Several types of cryostimulation have been recently proposed to rapidly lower skin temperature therefore gaining a possible neuro/muscular recovery after strenuous exercise or, more generally, in sports. Local cryostimulation may be a viable and relatively portable tool to obtain physiological benefits in previously-efforted muscular districts. However, cohesive and standardized cryo-exposure protocols are lacking as well as the righteous procedure to efficaciously combine duration, treatments and temperature in relation to desirable effects on muscular strength. In this randomized-controlled study, fifty young women were tested for maximum isometric handgrip strength, before and after exhausting contractions. Following the fatiguing protocol, the intervention group (cryo, n = 25, 24.7 ± 2.5 years, BMI 21.7 ± 1.8 kg/m2) underwent a 6-min local cryostimulation (-160 °C) on the extensor-flexor muscles of the dominant arm, while control-matched peers sat rested in a thermo-neutral room (22 ± 0.5 °C). Handgrip tests were repeated at baseline (T0), after cryostimulation (T1), and 15 min after T1 (T2). Throughout the protocol, the AUC of the strength performance was significantly higher in the cryo- compared to control group (P = 0.006). In particular, following fatigue and cryostimulation, the cryo group preserved higher strength at T1 with respect to controls (26.8 ± 2.8 vs 23.9 ± 2.8 kg, Bonferroni's post-hoc, P < 0.01). Likewise, ventral and dorsal temperature, recorded with a thermal camera, were lower in cryo- than control group (P < 0.0001). In conclusion, a brief session of local cryostimulation may acutely preserve maximal isometric force in young women following a fatiguing protocol. These findings may have implications in orchestrating strategies of district muscular recovery.