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Stien N, Langer K, Andersen V, Engelsrud GH, Olsen E, Saeterbakken AH. Development of Specific Motor Skills through System Wall Bouldering Training: A Pilot Study. TRANSLATIONAL SPORTS MEDICINE 2024; 2024:5584962. [PMID: 39015173 PMCID: PMC11250695 DOI: 10.1155/2024/5584962] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 02/27/2024] [Revised: 05/09/2024] [Accepted: 06/11/2024] [Indexed: 07/18/2024]
Abstract
This study evaluated the effects of a five-week period of practicing specific climbing movements using a system wall on motor skills and bouldering performance compared to self-regulated, conventional bouldering. Thirteen advanced female boulderers (age: 24.5 ± 3.6 years, height: 166.9 ± 3.4 cm, and body mass: 63.4 ± 8.0 kg) were divided into an experimental group (n = 7) and a control group (n = 6). Both groups continued their normal training routines during the intervention, but the experimental group dedicated 30 minutes of their climbing time twice per week to practicing specific motor skills on a system climbing wall. Before and after the intervention, the participants attempted two boulder problems on the same wall. The performance was registered as the number of attempts to complete the boulder problems and as the highest hold reached within four attempts. Video recordings of climbers' best attempts, capturing the highest hold reached from a perspective directly behind them, were analyzed by three independent experts. The analysis was conducted using a five-point scale across six categories of movement quality. Modest enhancements in certain motor skills and performance were evident in both groups, revealing no significant distinction between them. The results underscore the efficacy of incorporating system walls into the training routines of advanced female boulder climbers, but the absence of between-group differences highlights the significance of individual preferences when choosing between conventional and system wall bouldering.
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Affiliation(s)
- Nicolay Stien
- Faculty of EducationArts and SportsWestern Norway University of Applied Sciences, Sogndal, Norway
| | - Kaja Langer
- Department of Human SciencesInstitute of Sports ScienceTechnical University Darmstadt, Darmstadt, Germany
| | - Vidar Andersen
- Faculty of EducationArts and SportsWestern Norway University of Applied Sciences, Sogndal, Norway
| | - Gunn Helene Engelsrud
- Faculty of EducationArts and SportsWestern Norway University of Applied Sciences, Sogndal, Norway
| | - Elias Olsen
- Faculty of EducationArts and SportsWestern Norway University of Applied Sciences, Sogndal, Norway
| | - Atle Hole Saeterbakken
- Faculty of EducationArts and SportsWestern Norway University of Applied Sciences, Sogndal, Norway
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Langer K, Andersen V, Stien N. The effects of five weeks of climbing training, on and off the wall, on climbing specific strength, performance, and training experience in female climbers-A randomized controlled trial. PLoS One 2024; 19:e0306300. [PMID: 38976692 PMCID: PMC11230541 DOI: 10.1371/journal.pone.0306300] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 04/15/2024] [Accepted: 06/16/2024] [Indexed: 07/10/2024] Open
Abstract
Recent research has elucidated the effects of strength training on climbing performance. Although local muscular endurance training of the upper-limbs and finger flexors is frequently suggested, there is currently insufficient evidence to support its impact on climbing performance and climbing-specific strength. Furthermore, there is no evidence on climbers' experiences related to training and the likelihood of consistent engagement. In addition, the effects of more climbing-specific strength training on walls with built in lights and adjustable angles have yet to be examined. The low percentage of studies involving female subjects, additionally, demonstrates a significant gap in understanding the specific effects of strength training on women in the context of climbing. The aim of this study was thus to assess the effects of five-week on-, and off-the-wall climbing training on climbing performance, climbing-specific strength, and training experience. Thirty-one female lower-grade to advanced climbers were randomly assigned to either a control group, an off-the-wall training or an on-the-wall training group. Apart from the training regimen, all groups followed their usual climbing and bouldering routine. Subjects trained at least twice a week. Bouldering performance, and maximum strength and muscular endurance of the finger flexors and upper-limbs were assessed before and after the intervention. Furthermore, rate of perceived exertion and discomfort, exercise enjoyment, and exercise pleasure were assessed during the first and last training session, as well as after two and a half weeks of training. Intrinsic training motivation was assessed after the last training session. The results showed trends towards positive effects of off-the-wall training on climbing-specific strength, and on-the-wall training on climbing technique. Furthermore, our finding revealed high exercise enjoyment and intrinsic training motivation for both on- and off-the-wall training. Hence, lower-grade to advanced female climbers should rely on personal training preferences.
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Affiliation(s)
- Kaja Langer
- Institute of Sports Science, Technical University of Darmstadt, Darmstadt, Germany
| | - Vidar Andersen
- Faculty of Education, Arts and Sports, Western Norway University of Applied Sciences, Sogndal, Bergen, Norway
| | - Nicolay Stien
- Faculty of Education, Arts and Sports, Western Norway University of Applied Sciences, Sogndal, Bergen, Norway
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Wilkie B, Jordan A, Foulkes J, Woods CT, Davids K, Rudd J. Examining the validity, reliability and feasibility of capturing children's physical literacy through games-based assessment in physical education. Front Sports Act Living 2023; 5:1188364. [PMID: 37377846 PMCID: PMC10291073 DOI: 10.3389/fspor.2023.1188364] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 03/17/2023] [Accepted: 05/29/2023] [Indexed: 06/29/2023] Open
Abstract
Background Observational tools can help refine practice design and guide the creation of effective learning environments. The intention of this study was to design and validate an observational instrument for assessing physical literacy that remains more faithful to the philosophically complex and holistic nature of the concept. Methods Framed by concepts of ecological dynamics, the emergent games-based assessment tool enables capture of children's interactions with their environment, providing insight on the manifestation of physical literacy within physical education games. The design and validation of the instrument consisted of a multistage process: (1) design of the observational instrument and establishing face validity; (2) pilot observation study; (3) expert qualitative and quantitative review to establish content validity; (4) observation training; and (5), establishing observer reliability. Results Following expert qualitative and quantitative evaluation, Aiken's V coefficient was used to determine content validity. Results achieved demanding levels of validity (V ≥ 0.78) for all retained measurement variables. Cohen's κ values for inter- and intra-observer reliability ranged from 0.331 to 1.00 and 0.552 to 1.00, generally reporting "substantial" agreement during inter-observer analysis and "substantial" to "almost perfect" agreement during intra-observer analysis. Conclusions The final model of the emergent games-based assessment tool, with 9 ecological conceptualisations of behaviour, 15 measurement variables, and 44 categorical observational items was found to be valid and reliable, providing both educators and researchers with a useful mechanism to assess physical literacy during gameplay.
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Affiliation(s)
- Brett Wilkie
- School of Science, Technology & Health, York St. John University, York, United Kingdom
| | - Alastair Jordan
- School of Science, Technology & Health, York St. John University, York, United Kingdom
| | - Jonathan Foulkes
- School of Sport & Exercise Sciences, Liverpool John Moores University, Liverpool, United Kingdom
| | - Carl T. Woods
- Institute for Health & Sport, Victoria University, Melbourne, Vic, Australia
| | - Keith Davids
- Sport and Human Performance Research Group, Sheffield Hallam University, Sheffield, United Kingdom
| | - James Rudd
- Department of Teacher Education & Outdoor Studies, Norwegian School of Sports Sciences, Oslo, Norway
- Department of Sport, Food and Natural Sciences, Faculty of Education, Arts and Sports, Western Norway University of Applied Sciences, Sogndal, Norway
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Langer K, Simon C, Wiemeyer J. Physical performance testing in climbing-A systematic review. Front Sports Act Living 2023; 5:1130812. [PMID: 37229362 PMCID: PMC10203485 DOI: 10.3389/fspor.2023.1130812] [Citation(s) in RCA: 1] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 12/23/2022] [Accepted: 04/17/2023] [Indexed: 05/27/2023] Open
Abstract
Due to the increasing popularity of climbing, the corresponding diagnostics are gaining in importance for both science and practice. This review aims to give an overview of the quality of different diagnostic testing- and measurement methods for performance, strength, endurance, and flexibility in climbing. A systematic literature search for studies including quantitative methods and tests for measuring different forms of strength, endurance, flexibility, or performance in climbing and bouldering was conducted on PubMed and SPORT Discus. Studies and abstracts were included if they a) worked with a representative sample of human boulderers and/or climbers, b) included detailed information on at least one test, and c) were randomized-controlled-, cohort-, cross-over-, intervention-, or case studies. 156 studies were included into the review. Data regarding subject characteristics, as well as the implementation and quality of all relevant tests were extracted from the studies. Tests with similar exercises were grouped and the information on a) measured value, b) unit, c) subject characteristics (sex and ability level), and d) quality criteria (objectivity, reliability, validity) were bundled and displayed in standardized tables. In total, 63 different tests were identified, of which some comprised different ways of implementation. This clearly shows that there are no uniform or standard procedures in climbing diagnostics, for tests on strength, endurance or flexibility. Furthermore, only few studies report data on test quality and detailed information on sample characteristics. This not only makes it difficult to compare test results, but at the same time makes it impossible to give precise test recommendations. Nevertheless, this overview of the current state of research contributes to the creation of more uniform test batteries in the future.
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Medernach JP, Memmert D. Effects of decision-making on indoor bouldering performances: A multi-experimental study approach. PLoS One 2021; 16:e0250701. [PMID: 33983977 PMCID: PMC8118292 DOI: 10.1371/journal.pone.0250701] [Citation(s) in RCA: 1] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.3] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 08/10/2020] [Accepted: 04/13/2021] [Indexed: 11/23/2022] Open
Abstract
The purpose of this study was to investigate whether novice, intermediate, and advanced bouldering athletes would differ in their decision-making abilities and to what extent distinct problem-solving tactics would affect the athletes' bouldering performances. Seventy-seven male bouldering athletes participated in a multi-experimental study with the conceptual replication of three bouldering tasks. Participants were allocated according to their ability levels to the novice group (NOV with n = 18), the intermediate group (INT with n = 18), or the advanced group (ADV with n = 41). The data collected for movement analysis via video consisted of the pre-ascent decision-making times, the number of movement deviations from the best solution, the number of movement mistakes, the average gripping times, the bouldering times to the top, the number of successful ascents, and the number of attempts to complete the tasks. Results among all three experiments revealed shorter decision-making times, fewer movement mistakes, and shorter average gripping and bouldering times to the top in the ADV group than in the NOV group and the INT group. Furthermore, participants from the ADV group demonstrated fewer movement deviations than participants from the NOV group (in all three experiments) and the INT group (Experiment 1 and Experiment 2). Moreover, participants from the ADV group and the INT group were characterized, in all three experiments, by a higher number of successful ascents and a lower number of attempts to complete the tasks than participants from the NOV group. In total, these findings emphasize that accomplished decision-making abilities consist of a key determinant in successful indoor bouldering performances.
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Affiliation(s)
- Jerry Prosper Medernach
- Institute of Exercise Training and Sports Informatics, German Sport University Cologne, Cologne, Germany
| | - Daniel Memmert
- Institute of Exercise Training and Sports Informatics, German Sport University Cologne, Cologne, Germany
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Stien N, Frøysaker TF, Hermans E, Vereide VA, Andersen V, Saeterbakken AH. The Effects of Prioritizing Lead or Boulder Climbing Among Intermediate Climbers. Front Sports Act Living 2021; 3:661167. [PMID: 33969299 PMCID: PMC8100213 DOI: 10.3389/fspor.2021.661167] [Citation(s) in RCA: 5] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.7] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 01/30/2021] [Accepted: 03/24/2021] [Indexed: 11/13/2022] Open
Abstract
This study compared the effects of prioritizing lead climbing or boulder climbing on climbing-specific strength and endurance, as well as climbing performance. Fourteen active climbers were randomized to a boulder climbing training group (BCT: age = 27.2 ± 4.4 years, body mass = 65.8 ± 5.5 kg, height = 173.3 ± 3.8 cm) or a lead-climbing training group (LCT: age = 27.7 ± 6.1 years, body mass = 70.2 ± 4.4 kg, height = 177.7 ± 4.4 cm). The groups participated in a 5-week training period consisting of 15 sessions, performing either two weekly bouldering sessions and one maintenance-session of lead-climbing (BCT) or two weekly lead-climbing sessions and one maintenance-session of bouldering (LCT). Pre- and post-training, maximal force and rate of force development (RFD) were measured during isometric pull-ups performed on a jug hold and a shallow rung, and during an isolated finger-strength test. Lead-climbing and bouldering performance were also measured, along with an intermittent forearm endurance test. The pre-to-post changes were not significantly different between the groups for any of the parameters (P = 0.062-0.710). However, both the BCT (ES = 0.30, P = 0.049) and LCT (ES = 0.41, P = 0.046) groups improved strength in the isometric pull-up performed using the jug, whereas neither group improved force in the rung condition (P = 0.054 and P = 0.084) or RFD (P = 0.060 and P = 0.070). Furthermore, climbing and bouldering performance remained unchanged in both groups (P = 0.210-0.895). The LCT group improved forearm endurance (ES = 0.55, P = 0.007), while the BCT group improved isolated finger strength (ES = 0.35, P = 0.015). In addition to isometric pull-up strength, bouldering can increase isolated finger strength while lead-climbing may improve forearm endurance. A 5-week period prioritizing one discipline can be safely implemented for advanced to intermediate climbers without risking declined performance in the non-prioritized discipline.
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Affiliation(s)
- Nicolay Stien
- Department of Sport, Food and Natural Sciences, Institute of Education, Arts and Sports, Western Norway University of Applied Sciences, Sogndal, Norway
| | - Tor Frithjof Frøysaker
- Department of Sport, Food and Natural Sciences, Institute of Education, Arts and Sports, Western Norway University of Applied Sciences, Sogndal, Norway
| | - Espen Hermans
- Department of Sport, Food and Natural Sciences, Institute of Education, Arts and Sports, Western Norway University of Applied Sciences, Sogndal, Norway
| | - Vegard Albert Vereide
- Department of Sport, Food and Natural Sciences, Institute of Education, Arts and Sports, Western Norway University of Applied Sciences, Sogndal, Norway
| | - Vidar Andersen
- Department of Sport, Food and Natural Sciences, Institute of Education, Arts and Sports, Western Norway University of Applied Sciences, Sogndal, Norway
| | - Atle Hole Saeterbakken
- Department of Sport, Food and Natural Sciences, Institute of Education, Arts and Sports, Western Norway University of Applied Sciences, Sogndal, Norway
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Stien N, Vereide VA, Saeterbakken AH, Hermans E, Shaw MP, Andersen V. Upper body rate of force development and maximal strength discriminates performance levels in sport climbing. PLoS One 2021; 16:e0249353. [PMID: 33770128 PMCID: PMC7997018 DOI: 10.1371/journal.pone.0249353] [Citation(s) in RCA: 11] [Impact Index Per Article: 3.7] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 01/14/2021] [Accepted: 03/16/2021] [Indexed: 11/30/2022] Open
Abstract
The aim of this study was to assess and compare the maximal force and rate of force development (RFD) between intermediate, advanced and elite climbers using several different methods for calculating RFD. Fifty-seven male climbers (17 intermediate, 25 advanced, and 15 elite) performed isometric pull-ups on a climbing-specific hold while the RFD was calculated using several absolute (50, 100, 150, 200, and 250 ms from onset of force) and relative time periods (25, 50, 75, 95, and 100% of time to peak force). The maximal force was higher among elite climbers compared to advanced (ES = 1.78, p < 0.001) and intermediate climbers (ES = 1.77, p < 0.001), while no difference was observed between intermediate and advanced climbers (P = 0.898). The elite group also showed higher RFD than the other two groups at all relative time periods (ES = 1.02-1.58, p < 0.001-0.002), whereas the absolute time periods only revealed differences between the elite vs. the other groups at 50, 100 and 150 ms from the onset of force (ES = 0.72-0.84, p = 0.032-0.040). No differences in RFD were observed between the intermediate and advanced groups at any time period (p = 0.942-1.000). Maximal force and RFD, especially calculated using the longer periods of the force curve, may be used to distinguish elite climbers from advanced and intermediate climbers. The authors suggest using relative rather than absolute time periods when analyzing the RFD of climbers.
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Affiliation(s)
- Nicolay Stien
- Faculty of Education, Arts and Sports, Western Norway University of Applied Sciences, Bergen, Norway
| | - Vegard Albert Vereide
- Faculty of Education, Arts and Sports, Western Norway University of Applied Sciences, Bergen, Norway
| | - Atle Hole Saeterbakken
- Faculty of Education, Arts and Sports, Western Norway University of Applied Sciences, Bergen, Norway
| | - Espen Hermans
- Faculty of Education, Arts and Sports, Western Norway University of Applied Sciences, Bergen, Norway
| | - Matthew Peter Shaw
- Faculty of Education, Arts and Sports, Western Norway University of Applied Sciences, Bergen, Norway
| | - Vidar Andersen
- Faculty of Education, Arts and Sports, Western Norway University of Applied Sciences, Bergen, Norway
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Mitchell J, Maratos FA, Giles D, Taylor N, Butterworth A, Sheffield D. The Visual Search Strategies Underpinning Effective Observational Analysis in the Coaching of Climbing Movement. Front Psychol 2020; 11:1025. [PMID: 32670131 PMCID: PMC7326104 DOI: 10.3389/fpsyg.2020.01025] [Citation(s) in RCA: 5] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.3] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 12/02/2019] [Accepted: 04/24/2020] [Indexed: 12/30/2022] Open
Abstract
Despite the importance of effective observational analysis in coaching the technical aspects of climbing performance, limited research informs this aspect of climbing coach education. Thus, the purpose of the present research was to explore the feasibility and the utility of a novel methodology, combining eye tracking technology and cued retrospective think-aloud (RTA), to capture the cognitive–perceptual mechanisms that underpin the visual search behaviors of climbing coaches. An analysis of gaze data revealed that expert climbing coaches demonstrate fewer fixations of greater duration and fixate on distinctly different areas of the visual display than their novice counterparts. Cued RTA further demonstrated differences in the cognitive–perceptual mechanisms underpinning these visual search strategies, with expert coaches being more cognizant of their visual search strategy. To expand, the gaze behavior of expert climbing coaches was underpinned by hierarchical and complex knowledge structures relating to the principles of climbing movement. This enabled the expert coaches to actively focus on the most relevant aspects of a climber’s performance for analysis. The findings demonstrate the utility of combining eye tracking and cued RTA interviewing as a new, efficient methodology of capturing the cognitive–perceptual processes of climbing coaches to inform coaching education/strategies.
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Affiliation(s)
- James Mitchell
- Human Sciences Research Centre, College of Life and Natural Sciences, University of Derby, Derby, United Kingdom
| | - Frances A Maratos
- Human Sciences Research Centre, College of Life and Natural Sciences, University of Derby, Derby, United Kingdom
| | - Dave Giles
- Human Sciences Research Centre, College of Life and Natural Sciences, University of Derby, Derby, United Kingdom.,Lattice Training Ltd., Chesterfield, United Kingdom
| | - Nicola Taylor
- Human Sciences Research Centre, College of Life and Natural Sciences, University of Derby, Derby, United Kingdom
| | - Andrew Butterworth
- Human Sciences Research Centre, College of Life and Natural Sciences, University of Derby, Derby, United Kingdom
| | - David Sheffield
- Human Sciences Research Centre, College of Life and Natural Sciences, University of Derby, Derby, United Kingdom
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