Plant Monoterpenes and Essential Oils as Potential Anti-Ageing Agents: Insights from Preclinical Data

Ageing is a natural process characterized by a time-dependent decline of physiological integrity that compromises functionality and inevitably leads to death. This decline is also quite relevant in major human pathologies, being a primary risk factor in neurodegenerative diseases, metabolic disorders, cardiovascular diseases and musculoskeletal disorders. Bearing this in mind, it is not surprising that research aiming at improving human health during this process has burst in the last decades. Importantly, major hallmarks of the ageing process and phenotype have been identified, this knowledge being quite relevant for future studies towards the identification of putative pharmaceutical targets, enabling the development of preventive/therapeutic strategies to improve health and longevity. In this context, aromatic plants have emerged as a source of potential bioactive volatile molecules, mainly monoterpenes, with many studies referring to their anti-ageing potential. Nevertheless, an integrated review on the current knowledge is lacking, with several research approaches studying isolated ageing hallmarks or referring to an overall anti-ageing effect, without depicting possible mechanisms of action. Herein, we aim to provide an updated systematization of the bioactive potential of volatile monoterpenes on recently proposed ageing hallmarks, and highlight the main mechanisms of action already identified, as well as possible chemical entity-activity relations. By gathering and categorizing the available scattered information, we also aim to identify important research gaps that could help pave the way for future research in the field.

In Vitro Safety and Efficacy Evaluation of a Juniperus communis Callus Culture Extract and Matricaria recutita Processing Waste Extract Combination as a Cosmetic Ingredient

For skin health promotion and cosmetic applications, combinations of plant cell extracts are extensively utilized. As most natural ingredient suppliers offer crude extracts from individual plants or specific isolated compounds, the potential interactions between them are assessed in the development phase of cosmetic products. The industry seeks extract combinations that have undergone optimization and scrutiny for their bioactivities. This study presents a combination of two sustainably produced botanical ingredients and outlines their chemical composition, in vitro safety, and bioactivity for skin health enhancement. The amalgamation comprises the extract of Matricaria recutita processing waste and the extract from Juniperus communis callus culture. Chemical analysis revealed distinct compounds within the extracts, and their combination led to a broader array of potentially synergistic compounds. In vitro assessments on skin cells demonstrated that the combination possesses robust antioxidant properties and the ability to stimulate keratinocyte proliferation, along with regulating collagen type I and matrix metalloproteinase 1 (MMP-1) production by dermal fibroblasts. The identified traits of this combination render it an appealing cosmetic component. To the best of our knowledge, this represents the first case when the extracts derived from medicinal plant processing waste and biotechnological plant cell cultivation processes have been combined and evaluated for their bioactivity.

Development of Hinoline® as a natural preservative for cosmetic product using bioinspiration and Greenpharma Database

AIMS

The cosmetic industry needs new preservatives that are effective, natural, safe, cost effective, sustainable and compliant with regulatory standards. This necessity has posed challenges requiring obligations, bioinformatics and bioinspiration as driving forces.

METHODS AND RESULTS

Twenty natural extracts were selected from the Greenpharma Database with parameter filters corresponding to development constraints and antimicrobial properties. We confirmed using minimum inhibition concentration (MIC) assays that eight of the extracts have good bactericidal properties and that one has a high antifungal activity. The latter was purified hinokitiol, a bioproduct from Aomori Hiba wood. This substance provides high resistance against putrefaction; for instance, old Japanese temples were made of Aomori Hiba wood. The combination of hinokitiol with levulinic acid, another bioproduct, demonstrated complementary antimicrobial activities and synergistic effects in MIC studies and measurements according to Kull synergy index. Further, the mixture Hinoline® was tested at 2% in challenge tests and fulfilled criteria A of different standards. It also exerted complementary preservative effects with potassium sorbate and beneficial effects in unbalanced skin microbiota.

CONCLUSION

Hinoline, a new effective preservative from renewable bioresources, was developed.

SIGNIFICANCE AND IMPACT OF THE STUDY

This study accelerates the development of a preservative solution for cosmetics selected from Greenpharma Database, through bioinspiration and the identification of cost-effective investments and resources.

Skin photo-protection with phytochemicals against photo-oxidative stress, photo-carcinogenesis, signal transduction pathways and extracellular matrix remodeling-An overview

Excessive exposure of skin to UV radiation triggers the generation of oxidative stress, inflammation, immunosuppression, apoptosis, matrix-metalloproteases production, and DNA mutations leading to the onset of photo ageing and photo-carcinogenesis. At the molecular level, these changes occur via activation of several protein kinases as well as transcription pathways, formation of reactive oxygen species, and release of cytokines, interleukins and prostaglandins together. Current therapies available on the market only provide limited solutions and exhibit several side effects. The present paper provides insight into scientific studies that have elucidated the positive role of phytochemicals in counteracting the UV-induced depletion of antioxidant enzymes, increased lipid peroxidation, inflammation, DNA mutations, increased senescence, dysfunctional apoptosis and immune suppression. The contribution of phytochemicals to the downregulation of expression of oxidative-stress sensitive transcription factors (Nrf2, NF-Kb, AP-1 and p53) and protein kinases (MSK, ERK, JNK, p38 MAPK, p90RSK2 and CaMKs) involved in inflammation, apoptosis, immune suppression, extracellular matrix remodelling, senescence, photo ageing and photo-carcinogenesis, is also discussed. Conclusively, several phytochemicals hold potential for the development of a viable solution against UV irradiation-mediated photo ageing, photo-carcinogenesis and related manifestations.

Asiatic Acid Glucosamine Salt Alleviates Ultraviolet B-induced Photoaging of Human Dermal Fibroblasts and Nude Mouse Skin

Herbal extracts including asiatic acid (AA) have become popular candidates of anti-photoaging agents due to their anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties and minimal side effect. Nevertheless, low bioavailability due to poor solubility limits their practical application. In this study, a highly bioavailable form of AA called AAGS (compounded by asiatic acid and glucosamine) was investigated for its anti-photoaging effect using both in vitro and in vivo models along with UVB irradiation. The results showed that AAGS alleviated UVB-induced cell proliferation inhibition by reducing G2 phase arrest and cell apoptosis rate as well as the gene expressions of P53, BAX, CASPASE 3 and CASPASE 9, but enhancing BCL-2 expression. It also reduced the production of reactive oxygen species along with increased gene expression of GPX-1 and downregulated the gene expression of IL-1β, IL-6, IL-8, IL-17 and TNF-α compared to nontreated cells. In vivo results demonstrated the antiphotodamaging effects by restoring skin thickness, collagen content and reducing MMPs expression, which are also supported by reduced MMPs gene expression and enhanced collagen I and TGF-β1 gene expression in vitro. Thus, AAGS may become a potential anti-photoaging agent for topical use due to its capability of self-assembling into a water gel.

Aquatide Activation of SIRT1 Reduces Cellular Senescence through a SIRT1-FOXO1-Autophagy Axis

Ultraviolet (UV) irradiation is a relevant environment factor to induce cellular senescence and photoaging. Both autophagy- and silent information regulator T1 (SIRT1)-dependent pathways are critical cellular processes of not only maintaining normal cellular functions, but also protecting cellular senescence in skin exposed to UV irradiation. In the present studies, we investigated whether modulation of autophagy induction using a novel synthetic SIRT1 activator, heptasodium hexacarboxymethyl dipeptide-12 (named as Aquatide), suppresses the UVB irradiation-induced skin aging. Treatment with Aquatide directly activates SIRT1 and stimulates autophagy induction in cultured human dermal fibroblasts. Next, we found that Aquatide-mediated activation of SIRT1 increases autophagy induction via deacetylation of forkhead box class O (FOXO) 1. Finally, UVB irradiation-induced cellular senescence measured by SA-β-gal staining was significantly decreased in cells treated with Aquatide in parallel to occurring SIRT1 activation-dependent autophagy. Together, Aquatide modulates autophagy through SIRT1 activation, contributing to suppression of skin aging caused by UV irradiation.

Artocarpin-enriched (Artocarpus altilis) Heartwood Extract Provides Protection Against UVB-induced Mechanical Damage in Dermal Fibroblasts

This study aimed to evaluate the protective effect of artocarpin-enriched (Artocarpus altilis) heartwood extract on the mechanical properties of UVB-irradiated fibroblasts. Human skin fibroblasts were pretreated with 50 μg/mL^-1 extract and later irradiated with UVB (200 mJ/cm^-2 ). They were then cultured within three-dimensional of free-floating and tense collagen lattices. The pretreatment of fibroblasts with the extract prior to UVB radiation showed cells protection against UVB-induced suppression of α-SMA expression, fibroblast migration and contraction. These results reveal that the extract prevents mechanical damages induced by UVB irradiation in fibroblast-embedded collagen lattices, and therefore, has a potential as a natural photo-protectant.

Botanicals With Dermatologic Properties Derived From First Nations Healing: Part 1—Trees

Introduction:

First Nations people have a long history of working with medicinal plants used to treat skin diseases. The purpose was to assess the dermatologic therapeutic potential of western red cedar, white spruce, birch, balsam poplar, and black spruce.

Methods:

Based on expert recommendations, 5 trees were selected that were used in First Nations medicine for cutaneous healing and have potential and/or current application to dermatology today. We searched several databases up to June 12, 2014.

Results:

Western red cedar’s known active principal compound, β-thujaplicin, has been studied in atopic dermatitis. White spruce’s known active principal compound, 7-hydroxymatairesinol, has anti-inflammatory activity, while phase II clinical trials have been completed on a birch bark emulsion for the treatment of actinic keratoses, epidermolysis bullosa, and the healing of split thickness graft donor sites. Balsam poplar has been used clinically as an anti-aging remedy. Black spruce bark contains higher amounts of the anti-oxidant trans-resveratrol than red wine.

Discussion:

North American traditional medicine has identified important botanical agents that are potentially relevant to both cosmetic and medical dermatology. This study is limited by the lack of good quality evidence contributing to the review. The article is limited to 5 trees, a fraction of those used by First Nations with dermatological properties.

Triolein reduces MMP-1 upregulation in dermal fibroblasts generated by ROS production in UVB-irradiated keratinocytes

BACKGROUND

Cytokine production and oxidative stress generated by ultraviolet radiation B (UVB) skin exposure are main factors of skin photoaging. Interleukin-6 (IL-6) produced by irradiated keratinocytes is proposed to have a role in metalloproteinases (MMPs) expression activation in dermal fibroblasts.

OBJECTIVES

We examined the effect of triolein treatment of UVB-irradiated keratinocytes on MMP1 (interstitial collagenase) expression response of dermal fibroblasts. We assayed UVB-irradiated keratinocytes soluble signals, mainly IL-6 and reactive oxygen species (ROS).

METHODS

IL-6 expression and ROS generation were assayed in UVB-irradiated keratinocytes. MMP1 mRNA expression response was assayed in fibroblasts grown in keratinocytes conditioned medium. We evaluated the effect of treating keratinocytes with triolein on IL-6 expression and ROS generation in keratinocytes, and MMP1 expression in fibroblasts.

RESULTS

The irradiation of epidermal cells with sublethal UVB doses increased IL-6 expression and ROS generation. Conditioned culture medium collected from keratinocytes was used to culture dermal fibroblasts. MMP1 mRNA expression increase was observed in fibroblasts cultured in medium collected from UVB-irradiated keratinocytes. Triolein treatment reduced the IL-6 expression and ROS generation in keratinocytes and this effect was reflected in downregulation of MMP1 expression in fibroblasts.

CONCLUSIONS

Triolein reduces both the expression of IL-6 and ROS generation in irradiated keratinocytes. It seems to exert an anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidative stress effect on irradiated keratinocytes that in turn reduces MMP1 expression in dermal fibroblasts. Collectively, these results indicate that triolein could act as a photoprotective agent.

Dandelion Extracts Protect Human Skin Fibroblasts from UVB Damage and Cellular Senescence

Ultraviolet (UV) irradiation causes damage in skin by generating excessive reactive oxygen species (ROS) and induction of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), leading to skin photoageing. Dandelion extracts have long been used for traditional Chinese medicine and native American medicine to treat cancers, hepatitis, and digestive diseases; however, less is known on the effects of dandelion extracts in skin photoageing. Here we found that dandelion leaf and flower extracts significantly protect UVB irradiation-inhibited cell viability when added before UVB irradiation or promptly after irradiation. Dandelion leaf and flower extracts inhibited UVB irradiation-stimulated MMP activity and ROS generation. Dandelion root extracts showed less action on protecting HDFs from UVB irradiation-induced MMP activity, ROS generation, and cell death. Furthermore, dandelion leaf and flower but not root extracts stimulated glutathione generation and glutathione reductase mRNA expression in the presence or absence of UVB irradiation. We also found that dandelion leaf and flower extracts help absorb UVB irradiation. In addition, dandelion extracts significantly protected HDFs from H₂O₂-induced cellular senescence. In conclusion, dandelion extracts especially leaf and flower extracts are potent protective agents against UVB damage and H₂O₂-induced cellular senescence in HDFs by suppressing ROS generation and MMP activities and helping UVB absorption.

Salidroside protects against premature senescence induced by ultraviolet B irradiation in human dermal fibroblasts

OBJECTIVES

Salidroside, the predominant component of a Chinese herbal medicine, Rhodiola rosea L., becomes an attractive bio-agent due to its multifunction. Although it is well proposed that this herbal medicine may have photoprotective effect according to the folk hearsay, the direct supportive experimental evidences linking the drug with skin ageing have rarely been reported so far. The study was conducted to investigate the photoprotective role of salidrosdie and its related mechanisms in vitro.

METHODS

First, a premature senescence model induced by UVB irradiation (250 mJ cm(-2)) in human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) was established, and senescent phenotypes were evaluated by cell morphology, cell proliferation, senescence-associated beta-galactosidase (SA-β-gal) activity and cell cycle distribution. Then the photoprotective effect of salidroside was investigated. Cells were pre-treated with various doses of salidroside (1, 5 and 10 μM) followed by the sublethal dosage of UVB exposure and then were harvested for various detections, including senescence-associated phenotypes and molecules, alteration of oxidative stress, matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) secretion and inflammatory response.

RESULTS

Pre-treatment of salidroside dose dependently reversed the senescent state of HDFs induced by UVB as evidenced by elevated cell viability, decreased SA-β-gal activity and relieving of G1/G0 cell cycle arrest. UVB-induced increased protein expression of cyclin-dependent kinase (CDK) inhibitors p21(WAF) (1) and p16(INK) (4) was also repressed by salidrosdie treatment in a dose-dependent manner. Meanwhile, the increment of malondialdehyde (MDA) level in UVB-irradiated HDFs was inhibited upon salidroside treatment. Additionally, salidroside significantly attenuated UVB-induced synthesis of MMP-1 as well as the production of IL-6 and TNF-α in HDFs.

CONCLUSION

Our data provided the evidences for the protective role of salidroside against UVB-induced premature senescence in HDFs probably via its anti-oxidative property and inhibition on production of MMP-1 and pro-inflammatory cytokines, which indicated its potential utilization as an active ingredient in the preparation of photoprotective formulation.

Effects of baicalin against UVA-induced photoaging in skin fibroblasts

Ultraviolet A (UVA) radiation contributes to skin photoaging. Baicalin, a plant-derived flavonoid, effectively absorbs UV rays and has been shown to have anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties that may delay the photoaging process. In the current study, cultured human skin fibroblasts were incubated with 50 μg/ml baicalin 24 hours prior to 10 J/cm(2) UVA irradiation. In order to examine the efficacy of baicalin treatment in delaying UVA-induced photoaging, we investigated aging-related markers, cell cycle changes, anti-oxidant activity, telomere length, and DNA damage markers. UVA radiation caused an increased proportion of β-Gal positive cells and reduced telomere length in human skin fibroblasts. In addition, UVA radiation inhibited TGF-β1 secretion, induced G1 phase arrest, reduced SOD and GSH-Px levels, increased MDA levels, enhanced the expression of MMP-1, TIMP-1, p66, p53, and p16 mRNA, reduced c-myc mRNA expression, elevated p53 and p16 protein expression, and reduced c-myc protein expression. Baicalin treatment effectively protected human fibroblasts from these UVA radiation-induced aging responses, suggesting that the underlying mechanism involves the inhibition of oxidative damage and regulation of the expression of senescence-related genes, including those encoding for p53, p66(Shc) and p16.