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Liger-Belair G, Cilindre C, Beaumont F, Polidori G. Understanding the tasting of champagne and other sparkling wines from a scientific perspective. Food Res Int 2024; 191:114678. [PMID: 39059939 DOI: 10.1016/j.foodres.2024.114678] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 12/13/2023] [Revised: 06/18/2024] [Accepted: 06/26/2024] [Indexed: 07/28/2024]
Abstract
From uncorking the bottle to the bursting of bubbles in the glass, the science behind the tasting of champagne and other sparkling wine is both traditional and at the forefront of modern developments. The strong interaction between the various parameters at play in a bottle and in a glass of sparkling wine has been the subject of study for around two decades. Indeed, sparkling wine tasting is often seen as the pinnacle of glamor and frivolity for most people, but it should also be considered as a fantastic playground for chemists and physicists to explore the subtle science behind this centuries-old drink, whose prestige today goes well beyond the borders of Champagne and France. This article offers an overview of the physicochemical processes that mark a tasting of champagne or sparkling wine in the broad sense, from the cork popping out of the bottleneck to the formation and bursting of bubbles in your glass, including the choice of the glass and how to serve and drink the wine correctly.
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Affiliation(s)
| | - Clara Cilindre
- Université de Reims Champagne-Ardenne, CNRS, GSMA, Reims, France
| | - Fabien Beaumont
- Université de Reims Champagne-Ardenne, ITHEMM, Reims, France
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Just-Borràs A, Moroz E, Giménez P, Gombau J, Ribé E, Collado A, Cabanillas P, Marangon M, Fort F, Canals JM, Zamora F. Comparison of ancestral and traditional methods for elaborating sparkling wines. Curr Res Food Sci 2024; 8:100768. [PMID: 38860264 PMCID: PMC11163175 DOI: 10.1016/j.crfs.2024.100768] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 02/22/2024] [Revised: 04/18/2024] [Accepted: 05/09/2024] [Indexed: 06/12/2024] Open
Abstract
This work compares the ancestral method for elaborating sparkling wines with the most widely used traditional method. Ancestral method is a single fermentation procedure in which the fermenting grape must is bottled before the end of alcoholic fermentation whereas traditional method involves a second fermentation of a base wine inside a bottle. Macabeo grapes were used to elaborate a traditional sparkling wine and two ancestral sparkling wines, one with a low yeast population and one with a high yeast population. The findings indicate that ancestral sparkling wines have lower ethanol content and can be elaborated using lower sulphur dioxide levels. In general, ancestral sparkling wines showed similar protein concentration, higher polysaccharide content, similar or better foamability (HM) than the traditional sparkling wine., No differences were found in the foam stability (HS). In addition, the sensory analysis indicated that ancestral sparkling wines have smaller bubble size, lower CO2 aggressivity, they seemed to have longer ageing time and were scored better than the traditional sparkling wine. These results therefore indicate that the ancestral method is of great interest for the elaboration of high-quality sparkling wines.
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Affiliation(s)
- Arnau Just-Borràs
- Departament de Bioquímica I Biotecnologia, Facultat D’Enologia de Tarragona, Universitat Rovira I Virgili, C/Marcel.li Domingo 1, 43007 Tarragona, Spain
| | - Ekaterina Moroz
- Departament de Bioquímica I Biotecnologia, Facultat D’Enologia de Tarragona, Universitat Rovira I Virgili, C/Marcel.li Domingo 1, 43007 Tarragona, Spain
| | - Pol Giménez
- Departament de Bioquímica I Biotecnologia, Facultat D’Enologia de Tarragona, Universitat Rovira I Virgili, C/Marcel.li Domingo 1, 43007 Tarragona, Spain
| | - Jordi Gombau
- Departament de Bioquímica I Biotecnologia, Facultat D’Enologia de Tarragona, Universitat Rovira I Virgili, C/Marcel.li Domingo 1, 43007 Tarragona, Spain
| | - Elisa Ribé
- Consell Regulador D.O, Tarragona, C/ de La Cort Nº 41, Baixos, 43800 Valls, Spain
| | - Angels Collado
- Consell Regulador D.O, Tarragona, C/ de La Cort Nº 41, Baixos, 43800 Valls, Spain
| | - Pedro Cabanillas
- Departament de Bioquímica I Biotecnologia, Facultat D’Enologia de Tarragona, Universitat Rovira I Virgili, C/Marcel.li Domingo 1, 43007 Tarragona, Spain
| | - Matteo Marangon
- Department of Agronomy, Food, Natural Resources, Animals and Environment (DAFNAE), University of Padova, Viale Dell'Università, 16, 35020, Legnaro, PD, Italy
- Interdepartmental Centre for Research in Viticulture and Enology (CIRVE), University of Padova, Conegliano, TV, Italy
| | - Francesca Fort
- Departament de Bioquímica I Biotecnologia, Facultat D’Enologia de Tarragona, Universitat Rovira I Virgili, C/Marcel.li Domingo 1, 43007 Tarragona, Spain
| | - Joan M. Canals
- Departament de Bioquímica I Biotecnologia, Facultat D’Enologia de Tarragona, Universitat Rovira I Virgili, C/Marcel.li Domingo 1, 43007 Tarragona, Spain
| | - Fernando Zamora
- Departament de Bioquímica I Biotecnologia, Facultat D’Enologia de Tarragona, Universitat Rovira I Virgili, C/Marcel.li Domingo 1, 43007 Tarragona, Spain
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Liger-Belair G, Khenniche C, Poteau C, Bailleul C, Thollin V, Cilindre C. Losses of Yeast-Fermented Carbon Dioxide during Prolonged Champagne Aging: Yes, the Bottle Size Does Matter! ACS OMEGA 2023; 8:22844-22853. [PMID: 37396213 PMCID: PMC10308572 DOI: 10.1021/acsomega.3c01812] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 03/17/2023] [Accepted: 05/03/2023] [Indexed: 07/04/2023]
Abstract
When it comes to champagne tasting, dissolved CO2 is a key compound responsible for the very much sought-after effervescence in glasses. Nevertheless, the slow decrease of dissolved CO2 during prolonged aging of the most prestigious cuvees raises the issue of how long champagne can age before it becomes unable to form CO2 bubbles during tasting. Measurements of dissolved CO2 concentrations were done on a collection of 13 successive champagne vintages stored in standard 75 cL bottles and 150 cL magnums showing prolonged aging ranging from 25 to 47 years. The vintages elaborated in magnums were found to retain their dissolved CO2 much more efficiently during prolonged aging than the same vintages elaborated in standard bottles. A multivariable exponential decay-type model was proposed for the theoretical time-dependent concentration of dissolved CO2 and the subsequent CO2 pressure in the sealed bottles during champagne aging. The CO2 mass transfer coefficient through the crown caps used to seal champagne bottles prior to the 2000s was thus approached in situ with a global average value of K ≈ 7 × 10-13 m3 s-1. Moreover, the shelf-life of a champagne bottle was examined in view of its ability to still produce CO2 bubbles in a tasting glass. A formula was proposed to estimate the shelf-life of a bottle having experienced prolonged aging, which combines the various relevant parameters at play, including the geometric parameters of the bottle. Increasing the bottle size is found to tremendously increase its capacity to preserve dissolved CO2 and therefore the bubbling capacity of champagne during tasting. For the very first time, a long time-series dataset combined with a multivariable model indicates that the bottle size plays a crucial role on the progressive decay of dissolved CO2 experienced by champagne during aging.
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Affiliation(s)
- Gérard Liger-Belair
- Equipe
Effervescence & Champagne (GSMA), UMR CNRS 7331, Université de Reims Champagne-Ardenne, BP 1039, 51687 Reims Cedex 2, France
| | - Chloé Khenniche
- Equipe
Effervescence & Champagne (GSMA), UMR CNRS 7331, Université de Reims Champagne-Ardenne, BP 1039, 51687 Reims Cedex 2, France
- Champagne
Castelnau, 5 Rue Gosset, 51100 Reims, France
| | - Clara Poteau
- Champagne
Castelnau, 5 Rue Gosset, 51100 Reims, France
| | | | | | - Clara Cilindre
- Equipe
Effervescence & Champagne (GSMA), UMR CNRS 7331, Université de Reims Champagne-Ardenne, BP 1039, 51687 Reims Cedex 2, France
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Bamforth C. Provocation: prolonged maturation of beer is of unproven benefit. JOURNAL OF THE INSTITUTE OF BREWING 2023. [DOI: 10.58430/jib.v129i1.6] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 03/05/2023]
Abstract
Approaches to brewing are suffused with dogmatic insistence that certain techniques are unequivocally linked to the delivery of quality products. Amongst these belief sets is the perseverance with prolonged maturation (or ‘conditioning’) times post-fermentation. Historically the justification for these lagering techniques was to allow settling of solids, carbonation, flavour maturation and removal of chill haze entities. As science and technology have advanced it is unequivocally the case that solids and chill haze precursors can be dealt with in short order and without the need for lengthy treatments.
Equally it is perfectly possible to deliver specified levels of carbonation without the need for all the carbon dioxide to be introduced via yeast action. However, there remain many who feel that the nature of carbonation differs depending on which approach is taken. Herein lies one of the research areas that the author proposes. The perception of carbonation is not primarily due to bubble release on the palate, but rather is through the detection of carbonic acid. Is there a difference in the availability of this form of the gas depending on the mode of carbonation and to what extent does the adsorption of the carbonic acid on polypeptides in the beer have a role to play?
In terms of flavour, the advocates for lagering insist that there needs to be a handling of vicinal diketones, acetaldehyde, and hydrogen sulphide. However, all of these can be controlled through attention to primary fermentation. Then, the proponents for maturation insist that there is a desirable release of non-volatile materials into beer, which substances supposedly benefit the balance and mouthfeel of the lager. These include amino acids and nucleotides. It seems to this author however that the likeliest explanation for the greatly increased levels of these materials and of pH is autolysis of yeast. This, together with the disadvantageous impact of increased free amino nitrogen and higher pH on aspects such as biological stability, flavour stability and foam, should convince any brewer that there is a sound argument for avoiding the prolonged contact of beer with yeast. Indeed, a metabolomic approach to studying changes in non-volatile substances under conditions where there is little or no autolysis, revealed no detectable changes in any entity.
The author is open to being convinced that there are yet unidentified materials that are developed (whether through the action of viable yeast or by yeast autolysis) as beer is stored, substances which can be proven through sound organoleptic investigation to benefit the flavour of beer. Perhaps the Japanese term kokumi is what we are looking for here: ‘rich taste’. This is believed to be afforded by γ-glutamyl peptides and, inter alia, these are to be found in yeast extracts. Herein lies the second experimental approach that the author recommends for pursuit.
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Bonhommeau DA, Angot M, Cilindre C, Ahmed Khaireh M, Liger-Belair G. Densities, Viscosities, Thermal Expansivities, and Isothermal Compressibilities of Carbonated Hydroalcoholic Solutions for Applications in Sparkling Beverages. J Phys Chem B 2022; 126:10194-10205. [PMID: 36410045 DOI: 10.1021/acs.jpcb.2c07009] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/22/2022]
Abstract
Densities, viscosities, isothermal compressibilities, and thermal expansivities of carbonated hydroalcoholic solutions relevant for sparkling beverages are evaluated by molecular dynamics simulations as a function of temperature and alcoholic degree. They are compared with available experimental data, among which new measurements of densities and viscosities are performed in that respect. The OPC water model seems to yield the most accurate results, and the choice of CO2 model has little influence on the results. Theoretical densities obtained with the OPC model typically deviate by ∼2 kg m-3 from experimental data. At low alcoholic degrees (<9% EtOH vol), experimental viscosities lie in between theoretical values derived from the Stokes-Einstein formula and the calculation of transverse current autocorrelation functions, but at higher alcoholic degrees (≥9% EtOH vol), the Stokes-Einstein relation leads to viscosities in quantitative agreement with experiments. Isothermal compressibilities estimated with a fluctuation formula roughly extend from 0.40 to 0.49 GPa-1 in close agreement with the experimental range of values. However, thermal expansivities are found to significantly overestimate experimental data, a behavior that is partly attributed to the low temperature of maximum density of the OPC model. Despite this discrepancy, our molecular model seems to be suitable for describing several transport and thermodynamic properties of carbonated hydroalcoholic solutions. It could therefore serve as a starting point to build more realistic models for carbonated beverages, from fizzy drinks to sparkling wines.
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Affiliation(s)
- David A Bonhommeau
- Université de Reims Champagne-Ardenne, CNRS, GSMA UMR 7331, 51100 Reims, France.,Université Paris-Saclay, Univ Evry, CNRS, LAMBE, 91025 Evry-Courcouronnes, France
| | - Marie Angot
- Université de Reims Champagne-Ardenne, CNRS, GSMA UMR 7331, 51100 Reims, France
| | - Clara Cilindre
- Université de Reims Champagne-Ardenne, CNRS, GSMA UMR 7331, 51100 Reims, France
| | | | - Gérard Liger-Belair
- Université de Reims Champagne-Ardenne, CNRS, GSMA UMR 7331, 51100 Reims, France
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Lecasse F, Vallon R, Polak F, Cilindre C, Parvitte B, Liger-Belair G, Zéninari V. An Infrared Laser Sensor for Monitoring Gas-Phase CO2 in the Headspace of Champagne Glasses under Wine Swirling Conditions. SENSORS 2022; 22:s22155764. [PMID: 35957321 PMCID: PMC9371247 DOI: 10.3390/s22155764] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 07/08/2022] [Revised: 07/28/2022] [Accepted: 07/29/2022] [Indexed: 11/16/2022]
Abstract
In wine tasting, tasters commonly swirl their glasses before inhaling the headspace above the wine. However, the consequences of wine swirling on the chemical gaseous headspace inhaled by tasters are barely known. In champagne or sparkling wine tasting, starting from the pouring step, gas-phase carbon dioxide (CO2) is the main gaseous species that progressively invades the glass headspace. We report the development of a homemade orbital shaker to replicate wine swirling and the upgrade of a diode laser sensor (DLS) dedicated to monitoring gas-phase CO2 in the headspace of champagne glasses under swirling conditions. We conduct a first overview of gas-phase CO2 monitoring in the headspace of a champagne glass, starting from the pouring step and continuing for the next 5 min, with several 5 s swirling steps to replicate the natural orbital movement of champagne tasters. The first results show a sudden drop in the CO2 concentration in the glass headspace, probably triggered by the liquid wave traveling along the glass wall following the action of swirling the glass.
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