Recent Progress in the Analytical Chemistry of Champagne and Sparkling Wines

Comparison of ancestral and traditional methods for elaborating sparkling wines

This work compares the ancestral method for elaborating sparkling wines with the most widely used traditional method. Ancestral method is a single fermentation procedure in which the fermenting grape must is bottled before the end of alcoholic fermentation whereas traditional method involves a second fermentation of a base wine inside a bottle. Macabeo grapes were used to elaborate a traditional sparkling wine and two ancestral sparkling wines, one with a low yeast population and one with a high yeast population. The findings indicate that ancestral sparkling wines have lower ethanol content and can be elaborated using lower sulphur dioxide levels. In general, ancestral sparkling wines showed similar protein concentration, higher polysaccharide content, similar or better foamability (HM) than the traditional sparkling wine., No differences were found in the foam stability (HS). In addition, the sensory analysis indicated that ancestral sparkling wines have smaller bubble size, lower CO2 aggressivity, they seemed to have longer ageing time and were scored better than the traditional sparkling wine. These results therefore indicate that the ancestral method is of great interest for the elaboration of high-quality sparkling wines.

Losses of Yeast-Fermented Carbon Dioxide during Prolonged Champagne Aging: Yes, the Bottle Size Does Matter!

When it comes to champagne tasting, dissolved CO₂ is a key compound responsible for the very much sought-after effervescence in glasses. Nevertheless, the slow decrease of dissolved CO₂ during prolonged aging of the most prestigious cuvees raises the issue of how long champagne can age before it becomes unable to form CO₂ bubbles during tasting. Measurements of dissolved CO₂ concentrations were done on a collection of 13 successive champagne vintages stored in standard 75 cL bottles and 150 cL magnums showing prolonged aging ranging from 25 to 47 years. The vintages elaborated in magnums were found to retain their dissolved CO₂ much more efficiently during prolonged aging than the same vintages elaborated in standard bottles. A multivariable exponential decay-type model was proposed for the theoretical time-dependent concentration of dissolved CO₂ and the subsequent CO₂ pressure in the sealed bottles during champagne aging. The CO₂ mass transfer coefficient through the crown caps used to seal champagne bottles prior to the 2000s was thus approached in situ with a global average value of K ≈ 7 × 10^-13 m³ s^-1. Moreover, the shelf-life of a champagne bottle was examined in view of its ability to still produce CO₂ bubbles in a tasting glass. A formula was proposed to estimate the shelf-life of a bottle having experienced prolonged aging, which combines the various relevant parameters at play, including the geometric parameters of the bottle. Increasing the bottle size is found to tremendously increase its capacity to preserve dissolved CO₂ and therefore the bubbling capacity of champagne during tasting. For the very first time, a long time-series dataset combined with a multivariable model indicates that the bottle size plays a crucial role on the progressive decay of dissolved CO₂ experienced by champagne during aging.

Provocation: prolonged maturation of beer is of unproven benefit

Approaches to brewing are suffused with dogmatic insistence that certain techniques are unequivocally linked to the delivery of quality products. Amongst these belief sets is the perseverance with prolonged maturation (or ‘conditioning’) times post-fermentation. Historically the justification for these lagering techniques was to allow settling of solids, carbonation, flavour maturation and removal of chill haze entities. As science and technology have advanced it is unequivocally the case that solids and chill haze precursors can be dealt with in short order and without the need for lengthy treatments.  Equally it is perfectly possible to deliver specified levels of carbonation without the need for all the carbon dioxide to be introduced via yeast action. However, there remain many who feel that the nature of carbonation differs depending on which approach is taken. Herein lies one of the research areas that the author proposes. The perception of carbonation is not primarily due to bubble release on the palate, but rather is through the detection of carbonic acid. Is there a difference in the availability of this form of the gas depending on the mode of carbonation and to what extent does the adsorption of the carbonic acid on polypeptides in the beer have a role to play?  In terms of flavour, the advocates for lagering insist that there needs to be a handling of vicinal diketones, acetaldehyde, and hydrogen sulphide. However, all of these can be controlled through attention to primary fermentation. Then, the proponents for maturation insist that there is a desirable release of non-volatile materials into beer, which substances supposedly benefit the balance and mouthfeel of the lager. These include amino acids and nucleotides. It seems to this author however that the likeliest explanation for the greatly increased levels of these materials and of pH is autolysis of yeast. This, together with the disadvantageous impact of increased free amino nitrogen and higher pH on aspects such as biological stability, flavour stability and foam, should convince any brewer that there is a sound argument for avoiding the prolonged contact of beer with yeast. Indeed, a metabolomic approach to studying changes in non-volatile substances under conditions where there is little or no autolysis, revealed no detectable changes in any entity.  The author is open to being convinced that there are yet unidentified materials that are developed (whether through the action of viable yeast or by yeast autolysis) as beer is stored, substances which can be proven through sound organoleptic investigation to benefit the flavour of beer. Perhaps the Japanese term kokumi is what we are looking for here: ‘rich taste’. This is believed to be afforded by γ-glutamyl peptides and, inter alia, these are to be found in yeast extracts. Herein lies the second experimental approach that the author recommends for pursuit. 

Densities, Viscosities, Thermal Expansivities, and Isothermal Compressibilities of Carbonated Hydroalcoholic Solutions for Applications in Sparkling Beverages

Densities, viscosities, isothermal compressibilities, and thermal expansivities of carbonated hydroalcoholic solutions relevant for sparkling beverages are evaluated by molecular dynamics simulations as a function of temperature and alcoholic degree. They are compared with available experimental data, among which new measurements of densities and viscosities are performed in that respect. The OPC water model seems to yield the most accurate results, and the choice of CO₂ model has little influence on the results. Theoretical densities obtained with the OPC model typically deviate by ∼2 kg m^-3 from experimental data. At low alcoholic degrees (<9% EtOH vol), experimental viscosities lie in between theoretical values derived from the Stokes-Einstein formula and the calculation of transverse current autocorrelation functions, but at higher alcoholic degrees (≥9% EtOH vol), the Stokes-Einstein relation leads to viscosities in quantitative agreement with experiments. Isothermal compressibilities estimated with a fluctuation formula roughly extend from 0.40 to 0.49 GPa^-1 in close agreement with the experimental range of values. However, thermal expansivities are found to significantly overestimate experimental data, a behavior that is partly attributed to the low temperature of maximum density of the OPC model. Despite this discrepancy, our molecular model seems to be suitable for describing several transport and thermodynamic properties of carbonated hydroalcoholic solutions. It could therefore serve as a starting point to build more realistic models for carbonated beverages, from fizzy drinks to sparkling wines.

An Infrared Laser Sensor for Monitoring Gas-Phase CO2 in the Headspace of Champagne Glasses under Wine Swirling Conditions

In wine tasting, tasters commonly swirl their glasses before inhaling the headspace above the wine. However, the consequences of wine swirling on the chemical gaseous headspace inhaled by tasters are barely known. In champagne or sparkling wine tasting, starting from the pouring step, gas-phase carbon dioxide (CO2) is the main gaseous species that progressively invades the glass headspace. We report the development of a homemade orbital shaker to replicate wine swirling and the upgrade of a diode laser sensor (DLS) dedicated to monitoring gas-phase CO2 in the headspace of champagne glasses under swirling conditions. We conduct a first overview of gas-phase CO2 monitoring in the headspace of a champagne glass, starting from the pouring step and continuing for the next 5 min, with several 5 s swirling steps to replicate the natural orbital movement of champagne tasters. The first results show a sudden drop in the CO2 concentration in the glass headspace, probably triggered by the liquid wave traveling along the glass wall following the action of swirling the glass.