Stability of a cosmetic multiple emulsion loaded with green tea extract

Preliminary Studies about Valorization of Acmella oleracea Bioactive Content in Modern Dermato-Cosmetic Applications to Combat Skin Oxidative Stress

The development of products with skin-protective effects has been driven by the increasing incidence of skin diseases that are exacerbated by increasing pollution, urbanization, poor living, working, fatigue, dietary habits, and general treatment. The ability of antioxidants to protect the skin from oxidative stress and its effects makes them one of the most important ingredients in today's cosmetics. This article aims first to characterize the plant extracts obtained from Acmella oleracea (A. oleracea) and then to evaluate the preliminary criteria for a new marketed product: the stability, antioxidant activity, and in vitro behavior of certain serums based on A. oleracea plant extract and hyaluronic acid. The extracts were obtained by liquid-solid extraction methods (maceration (M), ultrasound-assisted extraction (UEA), and a combined method between these two (UEA + M) using an aqueous solution of ethyl alcohol as the extraction solvent. The determination of the amounts of compounds with antioxidant activity highlighted the fact that the extract obtained from the whole plant of A. oleracea using maceration in conditions of S/L = 1:30, 20 days, and an extraction solvent percentage of 50% led to obtaining the highest amount of polyphenols (30.42 μg GAE/g), while using the combined UAE + M method under conditions of S/L = 1:30, 6 min + 20 days, and 50% extraction solvent led to obtaining the highest amount of flavonoids (32.88 mg QE/g). The tests performed on dermato-cosmetic serums based on the plant extract and multimolecular hyaluronic acid (HA) (1 HA with HMW-1.0 mDa-1.6 mDa; HA with LMW-10 kDa-200 kDa; and HA OLIGO, MW < 10 kDa) led to the conclusion that they exhibit structural stability, good shear behavior revealing a satisfactory texture, and high physical stability during storage. These results encourage the transition to in-depth testing, both microbiological and dermatological, as a final step in the consideration of a new commercial product.

Novel Transethosomal Gel Containing Miconazole Nitrate; Development, Characterization, and Enhanced Antifungal Activity

Miconazole nitrate (MCNR) is a BCS class II antifungal drug with poor water solubility. Although numerous attempts have been made to increase its solubility, formulation researchers struggle with this significant issue. Transethosomes are promising novel nanocarriers for improving the solubility and penetration of drugs that are inadequately soluble and permeable. Thus, the objective of this study was to develop MCNR-loaded transethosomal gel in order to enhance skin permeation and antifungal activity. MCNR-loaded transethosomes (MCNR-TEs) were generated using the thin film hydration method and evaluated for their zeta potential, particle size, polydispersity index, and entrapment efficiency (EE%). SEM, FTIR, and DSC analyses were also done to characterize the optimized formulation of MCNR-TEs (MT-8). The optimized formulation of MCNR-TEs was incorporated into a carbopol 934 gel base to form transethosomal gel (MNTG) that was subjected to ex vivo permeation and drug release studies. In vitro antifungal activity was carried out against Candida albicans through the cup plate technique. An in vivo skin irritation test was also performed on Wistar albino rats. MT-8 displayed smooth spherical transethosomal nanoparticles with the highest EE% (89.93 ± 1.32%), lowest particle size (139.3 ± 1.14 nm), polydispersity index (0.188 ± 0.05), and zeta potential (-18.1 ± 0.10 mV). The release profile of MT-8 displayed an initial burst followed by sustained release, and the release data were best fitted with the Korsmeyer-Peppas model. MCNR-loaded transethosomal gel was stable and showed a non-Newtonian flow. It was found that ex vivo drug permeation of MNTG was 48.76%, which was significantly higher than that of MNPG (plain gel) (p ≤ 0.05) following a 24-h permeation study. The prepared MCNR transethosomal gel exhibited increased antifungal activity, and its safety was proven by the results of an in vivo skin irritation test. Therefore, the developed transethosomal gel can be a proficient drug delivery system via a topical route with enhanced antifungal activity and skin permeability.

Assessing and Predicting Physical Stability of Emulsion-Based Topical Semisolid Products: A Review

The emulsion-based topical semisolid dosage forms present a high degree of complexity due to their microstructures which is apparent from their compositions comprising at least two immiscible liquid phases, often times of high viscosity. These complex microstructures are thermodynamically unstable, and the physical stability of such preparations is governed by formulation parameters such as phase volume ratio, type of emulsifiers and their concentration, HLB value of the emulsifier, as well as by process parameters such as homogenizer speed, time, temperature etc. Therefore, a detailed understanding of the microstructure in the DP and critical factors that influence the stability of emulsions is essential to ensure the quality and shelf-life of emulsion-based topical semisolid products. This review aims to provide an overview of the main strategies used to stabilize pharmaceutical emulsions contained in semisolid products and various characterization techniques and tools that have been utilized so far to evaluate their long-term stability. Accelerated physical stability assessment using dispersion analyzer tools such as an analytical centrifuge to predict the product shelf-life has been discussed. In addition, mathematical modeling for phase separation rate for non-Newtonian systems like semisolid emulsion products has also been discussed to guide formulation scientists to predict a priori stability of these products.

Preliminary Approaches to Cosmeceuticals Emulsions Based on N-ProlylPalmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetat-Bakuchiol Complex Intended to Combat Skin Oxidative Stress

This study focuses on the development of a performant formulation for O/W dermato-cosmetic emulsions, which can be incorporated into novel dermato-cosmetic products or used as such. The O/W dermato-cosmetic emulsions contain an active complex based on a plant-derived monoterpene phenol, bakuchiol (BAK) and a signaling peptide named n-prolyl palmitoyl tripeptide-56 acetate (TPA). As a dispersed phase, we used a mix of vegetable oils, and as a continuous phase, Rosa damascena hydrosol was employed. Three emulsions containing different concentrations of the active complex were formulated (0.5% BAK + 0.5% TPA = E.1.1., 1% BAK + 1%TPA = E.1.2., 1% BAK + 2% TPA = E.1.3.). Stability testing was performed through sensory analysis, stability after centrifugation, conductivity and optical microscopy. A preliminary in vitro study regarding the diffusion ability of antioxidants through chicken skin was also undertaken. DPPH and ABTS assays were used to highlight the optimal concentration and combination in the formulation in terms of antioxidant properties and safety level of the active complex (BAK/TPA). Our results showed that the active complex used for preparing emulsions with BAK and TPA showed good antioxidant activity and is suitable for obtaining topical products with potential antiaging effects.

Cosmetic emulsion based on the fucose-rich polysaccharide FucoPol: Bioactive properties and sensorial evaluation

In this study, the physicochemical characteristics, bioactive properties, and sensorial evaluation of a O/W cosmetic formulation containing FucoPol, a fucose-containing bacterial polysaccharide, were assessed. The stability of the FucoPol-based cream, named F-cream, was demonstrated over a period of 2 months at different temperatures (4, 20 and 30 °C), during which it maintained the organoleptic characteristics and pH (5.88-6.19), with minimal variations on the apparent viscosity. Furthermore, no breaking mechanisms occurred upon centrifuging the samples (accelerated stability test) kept at 4 °C and at 30 °C for 60 days. The F-cream presented a shear-thinning and solid-liquid behavior consistent with its envisaged use for topical applications, proving to be a suitable candidate for an anti-aging application due to its antioxidant capacity and effective photoprotection, maintaining cellular preservation. Moreover, the formulation was proven non-cytotoxic for HaCaT cells at concentrations between 0.78 and 12.5 mg/mL, promoting HFFF2 cell migration (46-70 % of wound closure) at a concentration of 2.5 mg/mL, and HaCaT cell migration at a concentration of 10 mg/mL (95-98 % of wound closure). Upon application over the skin, the F-cream provided a hydration and softness with desired spreadability with no residues after application. These findings show that FucoPol has good potential to be used as a functional and/or active ingredient in cosmetic formulations, forming an emulsified cream with appealing sensorial properties that can act as a moisturizer with photoprotection, antioxidant, and regeneration properties.

Dermatocosmetic Emulsions Based on Resveratrol, Ferulic Acid and Saffron (Crocus sativus) Extract to Combat Skin Oxidative Stress-Trigger Factor of Some Potential Malignant Effects: Stability Studies and Rheological Properties

The increasing incidence of skin diseases, against the background of increased pollution, urbanism, poor habits in lifestyle, work, rest, diet and general medication, led to the development of products with a protective effect. These new types of dermatocosmetic preparations ensure maximum benefits with minimal formulation. Antioxidants are, nowadays, ingredients that stand out with a proven role in skin protection from oxidative stress and its effects. Thus, research has shown that light-textured formulas, quickly absorbed into the skin, with optimum hydration and protection against excessive free radicals, uphold the skin integrity and appearance. This article aims to evaluate essential criteria for a newly marketed product: stability, rheological properties and microbiological characteristics of oil-in-water emulsions based on a mixture of 3% resveratrol 0.5% ferulic acid and 1mL alcoholic extract of Saffron. The tests led to the conclusion that O / W dermatocosmetic emulsions, based on 3% resveratrol and 0.5% ferulic acid, or also 1mL alcoholic extract of Saffron, show resistance to microbiological contamination, good rheological properties (viscoelastic behavior, structural stability, acceptable shearing behavior) that reveal satisfactory texture and high physical stability during storage. These results encourage the transition to dermatological testing as the final stage in considering a new commercial product.

Conception of an environmental friendly O/W cosmetic emulsion from microalgae

The development of eco-friendly cosmetic such as those from microalgae for skin regeneration and collagen synthesis has gained a great interest worldwide. Accordingly, the potential of microalgae biomass as source of anti-aging cosmetic cream with high antioxidant activity has been investigated. Stabilities and sensory characteristics of cosmetic creams supplemented with Spirulina, Tetraselmis sp. and Dunaliella sp. at 0.5, 1.5 and 2.5%, respectively, revealed a conservation of physico-chemical and preliminary stability properties of formulations. To analyze physico-chemical and textural parameters, accelerated stability study was evaluated under two thermal conditions (25 and 40 °C) during 90 days. Results showed that pH values of all formulations were within the limits of normal skin pH range under storage time at 25 and 40 °C. During this period, the colored creams showed a significant changes of a* and b* indices, reflecting the instability of microalgae colors. Microalgae modified the textural characteristics of emulsions. The Tetraselmis sp. containing-cream had the lowest (P < 0.05) values of hardness, springiness, and cohesiveness. The 0.5% Spirulina containing-cream had the best stable consistency and adhesiveness under time and temperature variations. It exhibited the best properties to be used for skin care products. Thanks to their high content in bioactive macromolecules, microalgae considerably improved the antioxidant activity of the new formulated skin creams.

Antioxidants from Galium verum as Ingredients for the Design of New Dermatocosmetic Products

The aim of this study was to use plant extracts from spontaneous flora of Moldova (Rediu-Iasi area, Romania) as polyphenols and flavonoids source in order to obtain new dermato-cosmetic formulas to prevent the actions of oxidative stress on skin. Plant extracts (from raw and dried Galium verum sp.) were obtained by: cold classical maceration (M), heat reflux extraction (HTE) and ultrasound assisted extraction (UAE). The extracts were characterized by spectrophotometric method (for polyphenols and flavonoids content and for DPPH antioxidant activity evaluation). In order to evaluate the combating and/or attenuating effects of oxidative stress on skin, the study was continued with the elaboration of emulsions that incorporate one of these extracts. The emulsions were preliminarily characterized by determining the stability over time. The obtained results encourage research in the direction of deeper characterization of these emulsions to determine the microbiological stability and dermatological tests performed on the skin treated with these new products.

The Potential Application of Pickering Multiple Emulsions in Food

Emulsions stabilized by adsorbed particles—Pickering particles (PPs) instead of surfactants and emulsifiers are called Pickering emulsions. Here, we review the possible uses of Pickering multiple emulsions (PMEs) in the food industry. Food-grade PMEs are very complex systems with high potential for application in food technology. They can be prepared by traditional two-step emulsification processes but also using complex techniques, e.g., microfluidic devices. Compared to those stabilized with an emulsifier, PMEs provide more benefits such as lower susceptibility to coalescence, possible encapsulation of functional compounds in PMEs or even PPs with controlled release, etc. Additionally, the PPs can be made from food-grade by-products. Naturally, w/o/w emulsions in the Pickering form can also provide benefits such as fat reduction by partial replacement of fat phase with internal water phase and encapsulation of sensitive compounds in the internal water phase. A possible advanced type of PMEs may be stabilized by Janus particles, which can change their physicochemical properties and control properties of the whole emulsion systems. These emulsions have big potential as biosensors. In this paper, recent advances in the application of PPs in food emulsions are highlighted with emphasis on the potential application in food-grade PMEs.

In Vitro and Clinical Safety Assessment of the Multiple W/O/W Emulsion Based on the Active Ingredients from Rosmarinus officinalis L., Avena sativa L. and Linum usitatissimum L

The multiple W/O/W emulsion supplemented with the extracts of Rosmarinus officinalis L., Avena sativa L. and Linum usitatissimum L. was prepared in the study, its active compounds were determined by HPLC and its safety was evaluated in vitro by the means of reconstituted human skin model EpiDerm™ for the assessment of its irritation, phototoxicity and early skin inflammation effects and by the 48 h human skin patch test for its skin irritation and allergenic potential. The microbiological challenge test of W/O/W emulsion was performed to ensure its preservation efficiency. The results showed that the W/O/W emulsion loaded with self-preserving plant-based bio-actives had no irritant potential, was not phototoxic and did not provoke skin inflammation or sensitization and thus could be used as a safe base for cosmetic products. Furthermore, our results demonstrate that the safety evaluation of cosmetic ingredients of natural or organic origin could be easily performed using reconstructed human skin model EpiDerm™ similar to the well-defined chemicals used in the cosmetics industry.

Development and Characterization of Gelled Double Emulsions Based on Chia (Salvia hispanica L.) Mucilage Mixed with Different Biopolymers and Loaded with Green Tea Extract (Camellia sinensis)

The aim of this research was to develop and characterize five gelled double emulsions based on chia mucilage (CM) and different biopolymers (κ-carrageenan, C; locust bean gum, L; thixogum, T; and whey protein concentrate, W) loaded with green tea extract (GTE). Gelled double emulsions consisted of W₁ (whey-protein-concentrate/sodium-azide/NaCl/GTE)/O and (PGPR/canola-oi)/W₂ (CM, CMC, CML, CMT and CMW), and were characterized based on physicochemical properties during 35 days of storage. Optical microscopy clearly showed the drops of the internal phase surrounded by droplets of oil dispersed in the second aqueous phase; the droplet size was higher for CMT and lowest for CMW. In addition, all emulsions were highly stable at creaming and were effective in reducing the loss of antioxidant activity (88.82%) and total phenols (64.26%) during storage; CMT, CML and CM were the most effective. Furthermore, all emulsions showed a protective effect by modulating the release of the GTE in a simulated gastrointestinal environment, allowing a controlled release during the gastric-intestinal digestion phases and reaching its maximum release in the intestinal phase (64.57–83.31%). Thus, gelled double emulsions are an alternative for the preservation of GTE and could be a potential alternative for their application in the development of functional foods.

Effect of poplar-type propolis on oxidative stability and rheological properties of O/W emulsions

Propolis is known to possess antioxidant activity. However, there is no information on this activity in emulsions O/W. The protective effect of propolis on the oxidation and rheological properties of emulsions O/W containing wheat germ and almond oils was evaluated. Emulsions O/W were prepared with different concentration of propolis extract, almond oil and wheat germ oil. All emulsions physically stable without phase separation were stored at 37 °C for 9 weeks. Chemical composition of propolis was established by Gas chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry. Rheological characterization of different emulsions was performed evaluating consistency index and flow behavior index. The oxidation was monitored by measuring the lipid hydroperoxides and thiobarbituric acid-reactive substances (TBARS) methods. Flavonoids, phenolic acid esters, and aromatic acids were the main groups of compounds found in propolis. The results showed that popolis was good antioxidant in the concentration of 0.02 and 0.04% when lipid phase was constituted by almond oil. The rheological behavior is typical of a non-Newtonian fluid, being almond oil more adequate for having a higher stable O/W emulsion.

The optimization of technological processes, stability and microbiological evaluation of innovative natural ingredients-based multiple emulsion

For the last couple of decades, multiple emulsions were prepared either by the re-emulsification of primary emulsion or they were produced by an emulsion inversion and their technological peculiarities were widely investigated. The aim of our study was to investigate and determine the optimal technological parameters of innovative multiple emulsion, prepared directly-by addition of ethanolic rosemary extract in the presence of polymeric emulsifier-and evaluate its stability by experimental surface response design approach. The results revealed that simplified W/O/W emulsification process is stirring time and stirring speed sensitive: the change of stirring time from 5 to 15 min at 600 rpm resulted in increased viscosity (from 1705.6 ± 62.2 to 3364.1 ± 112.5 mPA/s) and smaller oil droplet size (from 33.09 ± 1.51 to 17.81 ± 0.78 μm), though the conductivity increased from 800 ± 2 to 882 ± 2 μS/cm (p < .05). The second mixing stage (1000 rpm) had a negative effect on the conductivity of W/O/W emulsion because of the inner aqueous phase encapsulation efficiency. Ethanolic rosemary extract was used as multifunctional agent: not only to form multiple emulsion but also to preserve it; microbiological assay confirmed its effectiveness. A stable W/O/W type drug delivery system was successfully created without additional technological stages, phase inversion or surfactants.

Technological Evaluation of Emulsions Containing The Volatile Oil from Leaves of Plectranthus Amboinicus Lour

BACKGROUND

Plectranthus amboinicus Lour is a species which is widespread throughout tropical countries where it is widely used against respiratory tract disorders such as bronchodilator, antitussive, and expectorant conditions.

OBJECTIVE

This study aims to characterize the essential oil of P. amboinicus (PaEO) and produce and evaluate emulsions containing PaEO.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

The essential oil was characterized by physical-chemical analyses for density, refractive index, 90% ethanol solubility, color, appearance, and identification by gas chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry detection. The emulsions were prepared following a hydrophile-lipophile balance [HLB] spreadsheet design from two nonionic surfactants (Span 80^® and Tween 20^®) producing HLB values ranging from 4.3 to 16.7. The products were stored at room temperature at 5°C. The emulsion stabilities were tested both in the long and short-term.

RESULTS

The PaEO was obtained by steam distillation and the total extraction was reached after 3 hours yielding of 0.2% (w/w). This essential oil was characterized by physicochemical analyses for density [1.5 g.ml^-1], refraction index [0.9167], ethanol 90% solubility [1:2], color, and appearance (yellow/clear). Nineteen components were identified in the oil, among them the sesquiterpenes: carvacrol [33.50%], p-cymene [28.20%] and γ-terpinene [14.77%]. The emulsions obtained successfully showed, for the first time, HLB values for essential oils from Plectranthus amboinicus [15.7].

CONCLUSION

The experimental data shows a relationship between HLB values of the surfactant mixtures contributing to the emulsified systems production containing phytopharmaceuticals. Such an approach is of great importance to the development of lipid carriers for therapeutic drugs.

SUMMARY

The essential oil from leaves of Plectranthus amboinicus was extracted by steam distillation and characterized.The emulsions containing essential oil were produced and the stability was performed in the short and long term.The critical hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) of the essential oil was 15.7 and was achieved by the combination of surfactants (Tween 80^® and Span 20^®). Abbreviations used: PaEO: essential oil of P. amboinicus, HLB: hydrophilic-lipophilic balance, CI: Creaming Index, MET: micro-emultocrit technique.

The research about microscopic structure of emulsion membrane in O/W emulsion by NMR and its influence to emulsion stability

PURPOSE

This paper discussed the influence of microstructure of emulsion membrane on O/W emulsion stability.

METHODS

O/W emulsions were emulsified with equal dosage of egg yolk lecithin and increasing dosage of co-emulsifier (oleic acid or HS15). The average particle size and centrifugal stability constant of emulsion, as well as interfacial tension between oil and water phase were determined. The microstructure of emulsion membrane had been studied by (1)H/(13)C NMR, meanwhile the emulsion droplets were visually presented with TEM and IFM.

RESULTS

With increasing dosage of co-emulsifier, emulsions showed two stable states, under which the signal intensity of characteristic group (orient to lipophilic core) of egg yolk lecithin disappeared in NMR of emulsions, but that (orient to aqueous phase) of co-emulsifiers only had some reduction at the second stable state. At the two stable states, the emulsion membranes were neater in TEM and emulsion droplets were rounder in IFM. Furthermore, the average particle size of emulsions at the second stable state was bigger than that at the first stable state.

CONCLUSIONS

Egg yolk lecithin and co-emulsifier respectively arranged into monolayer and bilayer emulsion membrane at the two stable states. The microstructure of emulsion membrane was related to the stability of emulsion.

Physicochemical characterization and thermodynamic studies of nanoemulsion-based transdermal delivery system for fullerene

Fullerene nanoemulsions were formulated in palm kernel oil esters stabilized by low amount of mixed nonionic surfactants. Pseudoternary phase diagrams were established in the colloidal system of PKOEs/Tween 80 : Span 80/water incorporated with fullerene as antioxidant. Preformulation was subjected to combination of high and low energy emulsification methods and the physicochemical characteristics of fullerene nanoemulsions were analyzed using electroacoustic spectrometer. Oil-in-water (O/W) nanoemulsions with particle sizes in the range of 70–160 nm were formed. The rheological characteristics of colloidal systems exhibited shear thinning behavior which fitted well into the power law model. The effect of xanthan gum (0.2–1.0%, w/w) and beeswax (1–3%, w/w) in the estimation of thermodynamics was further studied. From the energetic parameters calculated for the viscous flow, a moderate energy barrier for transport process was observed. Thermodynamic study showed that the enthalpy was positive in all xanthan gum and beeswax concentrations indicating that the formation of nanoemulsions could be endothermic in nature. Fullerene nanoemulsions with 0.6% or higher xanthan gum content were found to be stable against creaming and flocculation when exposed to extreme environmental conditions.

Synthesis, characterization, and evaluation of a novel amphiphilic polymer RGD-PEG-Chol for target drug delivery system

An amphiphilic polymer RGD-PEG-Chol which can be produced in large scale at a very low cost has been synthesized successfully. The synthesized intermediates and final products were characterized and confirmed by ¹H nuclear magnetic resonance spectrum (¹H NMR) and Fourier transform infrared spectrum (FT-IR). The paclitaxel- (PTX-) loaded liposomes based on RGD-PEG-Chol were then prepared by film formation method. The liposomes had a size within 100 nm and significantly enhanced the cytotoxicity of paclitaxel to B16F10 cell as demonstrated by MTT test (IC₅₀ = 0.079  μg/mL of RGD-modified PTX-loaded liposomes compared to 9.57  μg/mL of free PTX). Flow cytometry analysis revealed that the cellular uptake of coumarin encapsulated in the RGD-PEG-Chol modified liposome was increased for HUVEC cells. This work provides a reasonable, facile, and economic approach to prepare peptide-modified liposome materials with controllable performances and the obtained linear RGD-modified PTX-loaded liposomes might be attractive as a drug delivery system.