Antiageing Mechanisms of a Standardized Supercritical CO 2 Preparation of Black Jack (Bidens pilosa L.) in Human Fibroblasts and Skin Fragments

Ferulic acid in synergy with retinol alleviates oxidative injury of HaCaT cells during UVB-induced photoaging

Application of retinol (Vitamin A, VA) in skincare is limited for instability, poor water solubility, and skin intolerance that combats skin aging. We employed computer-aided virtual screening and cell experiments with transcriptomics, thereby unveiling the comprehensive gene expression and regulation pathway of photoaging HaCaT cell treated with ferulic acid (FA) in synergizing with VA. Through network pharmacology analysis, the combined use of VA and FA exhibited highly correlated cross-targets with skin aging acting on EGFR, PTPN1, ESR2, GSK3B, BACE1, PYGL, PTGS2 and APP. The indicators of oxidative stress, such as SOD, GSH, MDA, CAT and ROS in HaCaT cells after co-administration, were significantly improved from those in photoaging group (p<0.0001). 155 differential expressed genes (DEGs) were specific between groups, while reducing the expression of PTGS2 was identified as an important regulatory factor in photoaging HaCaT cells by VA and FA. Those DEGs of co-administration group focused on oxidative-reduction enzyme activity, skin growth, keratinization, and steroid biosynthesis. Apparently, the co-administration of VA and FA effectively mitigated the process of UVB-induced photoaging by reducing oxidative stress injury, inflammation responses, and regulating cell growth. This synergistic approach significantly slowed down the photoaging progression and improved the applied performance of VA in HaCaT cells.

Recent Advances in Herbal-Derived Products with Skin Anti-Aging Properties and Cosmetic Applications

Although aesthetic benefits are a desirable effect of the treatment of skin aging, it is also important in controlling several skin diseases, mainly in aged people. The development of new dermocosmetics has rapidly increased due to consumers' demand for non-invasive products with lower adverse effects than those currently available on the market. Natural compounds of plant origin and herbal-derived formulations have been popularized due to their various safe active products, which act through different mechanisms of action on several signaling pathways for skin aging. Based on this, the aim of the review was to identify the recent advances in herbal-derived product research, including herbal formulations and isolated compounds with skin anti-aging properties. The studies evaluated the biological effects of herbal-derived products in in vitro, ex vivo, and in vivo studies, highlighting the effects that were reported in clinical trials with available pharmacodynamics data that support their protective effects to treat, prevent, or control human skin aging. Thus, it was possible to identify that gallic and ferulic acids and herbal formulations containing Thymus vulgaris, Panax ginseng, Triticum aestivum, or Andrographis paniculata are the most promising natural products for the development of new dermocosmetics with skin anti-aging properties.

A selection of eleven plants used as traditional Polynesian cosmetics and their development potential as anti-aging ingredients, hair growth promoters and whitening products

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

In French Polynesia, embellishment of the hair and skin is an important cultural and everyday practice. Yet, little research has focused on traditional preparations used for beautification in this region and their potential development as innovative cosmetic ingredients.

AIM OF THE STUDY

In this present study we aim to assess and compile the ethnocosmetic potential of plants of French Polynesia to select and further study plants showing the most promise to be developed as anti-aging, anti-blemish and hair care products.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

A literature analysis of plants of the IECIC list, present in French Polynesia was conducted. The most interesting plants from a cosmetic development standpoint were selected based on four main criteria, i.e. their traditional use in Polynesian cosmetic-related preparations, their biogeographical status, their phytochemistry of cosmetic interest, and lastly their availability and absence from the UICN list. Furthermore, a preliminary screening of antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities was also performed on several extracts obtained.

RESULTS

Eleven plants were chosen, and a compilation of multidisciplinary data emphasized each selected plant's potentiality. Traditional allegations showed uses ranging from dermatology such as wound healing or anti-inflammatory properties, to hair growth promoting preparations or even skin ligthening ones. Preliminary screenings were useful in narrowing the number of extracts to study. Literature-based data associated to traditional uses depicted how the remaining plants and plant parts could be developed for targeted cosmetic applications.

CONCLUSIONS

A prospective approach of plants used traditionally for cosmetic purposes in French Polynesia gave insight on their development potential when paired with the appropriate multidisciplinary data. The eleven plants presented show promise in being developed sustainably as natural anti-aging or hair care products and as skin brightening agents.

Periplaneta americana Extracts Promote Skin Wound Healing via Nuclear Factor Kappa B Canonical Pathway and Extracellular Signal-Regulated Kinase Signaling

Periplaneta americana extracts (PAEs) exhibit wound healing properties. However, the underlying molecular mechanisms are not well understood. Here, we treated human skin fibroblasts (HSF) with PAE and the proliferation was determined by 3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2,5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide (MTT) assay. The wound healing and transwell migration assays were used to detect cell migration. Nuclear factor kappa B (NF-κB) and extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK) pathways were analyzed by Western blot (WB). Immunofluorescence staining was used to detect the key molecular localization in the cells. The results showed that PAE enhanced the proliferation and migration of HSF cells. The expression and activation of key proteins such as RelA and p-ERK were increased in NF-κB and ERK pathways followed by nuclear translocation. In vivo, both WB and immunohistochemical (IHC) staining showed that PAE enhanced p-IκBα and p-ERK activation and the nuclear translocation of RelA. Our study suggests that the protective function of PAE is mediated via enhanced NF-κB and ERK signaling.

Facial primer provides immediate and long-term improvements in mild-to-moderate facial hyperpigmentation and fine lines associated with photoaging

BACKGROUND

Photoaged skin results from various environmental factors, most importantly chronic sun exposure. Dyschromia and fine lines/wrinkles are common clinical manifestations of photodamaged skin.

PURPOSE

This single-center clinical trial was conducted to assess the efficacy and tolerability of a new multifunctional facial primer (camouflage, broad-spectrum SPF 50, and a treatment for hyperpigmentation) when used by females with mild-to-moderate facial hyperpigmentation and fine lines due to photoaging over a course of 12 weeks.

PATIENTS AND METHODS

Subjects were provided test material (Even Up-Clinical Pigment Perfector) and supporting products to use on their face and neck. Products were used according to specific application instructions. Clinical grading for efficacy and tolerability assessments were performed by an expert grader at baseline, baseline (post-application primer), week 4, week 8, week 12, and week 12 (post-application primer). Standardized digital photographs were taken, and self-assessment questionnaires were conducted.

RESULTS

Twenty-eight female subjects completed the 12-week trial. The facial primer improved scores for the appearance of hyperpigmentation and other photoaging parameters immediately after the first application. The treatment also showed a progressive improvement in the clinical assessment of hyperpigmentation and other photoaging parameters over the 12-week trial. These long-term benefits can be attributed to an improvement in the underlying skin condition. The facial primer was well tolerated. Subject questionnaires showed that the product was highly rated at all visits.

CONCLUSION

The facial primer was shown to be effective and well tolerated for immediate and long-term improvement in the appearance of mild-to-moderate hyperpigmentation and fine lines associated with photodamage when used over a 12-week period.