Efficacy and Safety of Oral Administration of Wine Lees Extract (WLE)-Derived Ceramides and Glucosylceramides in Enhancing Skin Barrier Function: A Randomized, Double-Blind, Placebo-Controlled Study

BACKGROUND

Our search for plant-derived ceramides from sustainable sources led to the discovery of ceramides and glucosylceramides in wine lees.

OBJECTIVE

This study evaluated the efficacy and safety of wine lees extract (WLE)-derived ceramides and glucosylceramides in enhancing skin barrier function.

METHODS

A randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study was conducted with 30 healthy Japanese subjects aged 20-64. Subjects were allocated to receive either the WLE-derived ceramides and glucosylceramides (test group) or placebo for 12 weeks. The primary outcome was transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and secondary outcomes included skin hydration, visual analog scale (VAS) of itching sensation, and the Japanese Skindex-29.

RESULTS

One participant withdrew for personal reasons, resulting in 29 subjects for data analysis (placebo n = 15; test n = 14). The test group showed a tendency of lower TEWL compared to the placebo after 8 weeks (p = 0.07). Furthermore, after 12 weeks of administration, the test group had significantly lower TEWL than the placebo (p = 0.04). On the other hand, no significant differences were observed in the secondary outcome parameters. No adverse events related to the supplements were reported.

CONCLUSIONS

Oral supplementation of WLE-derived ceramides and glucosylceramides is a prominent and safe approach to enhancing skin barrier function and health.

TRIAL REGISTRATION

(UMIN000050422).

Horse-Derived Ceramide Accentuates Glucosylceramide Synthase and Ceramide Synthase 3 by Activating PPARβ/δ and/or PPARγ to Stimulate Ceramide Synthesis

Horse-derived ceramide (HC), which contains galactosylceramides as its main component, significantly improves skin symptoms when applied topically to patients with atopic dermatitis. We speculated that efficacy resulted from the amelioration of epidermal ceramide metabolism, and we characterized those effects using reconstructed human epidermal equivalents. Lipid analysis, RT-PCR and Western blotting revealed that HC significantly increased the total ceramide content of the stratum corneum (SC), accompanied by significantly increased gene and/or protein expression levels of ceramide synthase (CERS) 3, fatty acid elongase (ELOVL) 4, glucosylceramide synthase (GCS), β-glucocerebrosidase, sphingomyelin synthase and acid sphingomyelinase. Mechanistic analyses using cultures of primary human keratinocytes revealed the marked stimulatory effects of HC on the mRNA expression levels of CERS3, ELOVL4 and GCS under high calcium-derived differentiation conditions. Signaling analyses demonstrated that an antagonist of PPARβ/δ significantly abrogated the HC-stimulated mRNA expression levels of GCS, CERS3 and ELOVL4. GW9662, an antagonist of PPARγ, significantly abolished the HC-up-regulated mRNA expression levels of GCS and ELOVL4, but not of CERS3. These findings suggest that HC has the distinct potential to accentuate the expression of GCS, CERS3 and ELOVL4 via the activation of PPARβ/δ and/or PPARγ to accelerate ceramide synthesis in the SC.

Effect of galactosylceramide on stratum corneum intercellular lipid synthesis in a three-dimensional cultured human epidermis model

Intercellular lipids in the stratum corneum (SC), such as ceramide (CER), free fatty acid (FFA), and cholesterol (CHOL), contribute to the formation of stable lamellar structures in the SC, making them important for skin barrier function. β-Galactosylceramide (GalCer) is a glycosphingolipid that is used in some cosmetics and quasi-drugs in anticipation of a moisturizing effect. GalCer promotes keratinocyte differentiation and increases CER production by increasing β-glucocerebrosidase (β-GCase) activity. However, few reports have described the mechanism of these effects, and detailed studies on the role of GalCer in intercellular lipid production in the SC have not been conducted. This study investigated the effect of GalCer on the metabolism and production of intercellular lipids in the SC in a three-dimensional cultured epidermis model. After reacting GalCer with a homogenate solution of three-dimensional cultured epidermis, GalCer was hardly metabolized. Treatment of the three-dimensional cultured epidermis with GalCer increased the expression of genes involved in the β-GCase metabolic pathway and promoted CER production. In addition, GalCer treatment reduced the expression of FFA metabolism-related genes as well as palmitic acid levels. In addition, transepidermal water loss, which is a barrier index, was reduced by GalCer treatment. These findings suggested that GalCer, which is hardly metabolized, affects the production of intercellular lipids in the SC and improves skin barrier function.

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β-Galactosylceramide (GalCer) is a glycosphingolipid that is used in some cosmetics and quasi-drugs in anticipation of a moisturizing effect.

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GalCer promoted ceramide production.

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GalCer improved transepidermal water loss, a barrier index.

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GalCer was hardly metabolized, and it affected the production of intercellular lipids in the stratum corneum.

Epidermal permeability barrier function and sphingolipid content in the skin of sphingomyelin synthase 2 deficient mice

Sphingomyelin synthase (SMS) is an enzyme that generates sphingomyelin (SM) from ceramide (CER) and phosphatidylcholine. SM in the epidermis is a precursor of CER, an important lipid for epidermal permeability barrier function. However, the physiological role of SMS in skin is unclear. To uncover the function of SMS in skin, we investigated sphingolipid metabolism enzyme activity in skin, SM content in the epidermis, CER content in the stratum corneum (SC) and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) as an indicator of barrier function in SMS2-knockout (KO) mice. The activities of sphingolipid metabolism enzymes in skin homogenates were measured using a fluorescently labelled substrate. Enzymatic reaction products were detected by high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). Lipids in the epidermis or SC were extracted and quantified by high-performance thin layer chromatography (HPTLC). TEWL was measured using a Tewameter TM300. In SMS2-KO mice, SMS activity in skin homogenates, epidermal SM content and SC CER content were significantly decreased relative to wild-type (WT) mice. The TEWL of SMS2-KO mice was significantly increased compared to WT mice. Our data indicate that SMS2 generates SM in the epidermis and contributes to epidermal permeability barrier function and will support understanding of SM-related metabolic disorders.

Potential Applications of Phyto-Derived Ceramides in Improving Epidermal Barrier Function

The outer most layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, consists of corneocytes which are coated by a cornified envelope and embedded in a lipid matrix of ordered lamellar structure. It is responsible for the skin barrier function. Ceramides (CERs) are the backbone of the intercellular lipid membranes. Skin diseases such as atopic dermatitis and psoriasis and aged skin are characterized by dysfunctional skin barrier and dryness which are associated with reduced levels of CERs. Previously, the effectiveness of supplementation of synthetic and animal-based CERs in replenishing the depleted natural skin CERs and restoring the skin barrier function have been investigated. Recently, however, the barrier function improving effect of plant-derived CERs has attracted much attention. Phyto-derived CERs (phytoCERs) are preferable due to their assumed higher safety as they are mostly isolated from dietary sources. The beneficial effects of phytoCER-based oral dietary supplements for skin hydration and skin barrier reinforcement have been indicated in several studies involving animal models as well as human subjects. Ingestible dietary supplements containing phytoCERs are also widely available on the market. Nonetheless, little effort has been made to investigate the potential cosmetic applications of topically administered phytoCERs. Therefore, summarizing the foregoing investigations and identifying the gap in the scientific data on plant-derived CERs intended for skin-health benefits are of paramount importance. In this review, an attempt is made to synthesize the information available in the literature regarding the effects of phytoCER-based oral dietary supplements on skin hydration and barrier function with the underlying mechanisms.

Upregulation of gene expression levels of ceramide metabolic enzymes after application of sphingomyelin-based liposomes to a three-dimensional cultured human epidermis model

BACKGROUND/AIMS

We have previously reported that the application of sphingomyelin-based liposomes (SM-L) to a three-dimensional cultured skin model increase the content of ceramides NS, NP, AS and AP. However, the mechanism responsible for these increased ceramide levels was not identified.

METHODS

SM-L and sphingomyelinase (SMase) were combined and incubated at 37 °C for 24 h. SM-L were also applied to three-dimensional cultured skin for 24 h and quantification of SMase and β-glucocerebrosidase (β-GCase) mRNA expression levels performed using real-time PCR. Additionally, three dimensional cultured skin was incubated with SM-L and the β-GCase inhibitor conduritol B epoxide (CBE) and the ceramide content determined by high performance thin layer chromatography.

RESULTS

We observed generation of ceramide NS after reaction of SM-L and SMase. However, the other ceramide classes were not detected. Notably, SMase and β-GCase mRNA expression levels were significantly increased in cells of the skin model following application of SM-L. The levels of ceramides NS, NP, AS and AP were decreased by treatment with CBE. However, only ceramide NS was significantly increased by treatment with CBE and SM-L in combination.

CONCLUSION

These findings indicate that application of SM-L to cultured skin upregulates the expression of SMase and β-GCase and increases ceramide content.

Triggered release of model drug from AuNP-doped BSA nanocarriers in hair follicles using IRA radiation

Recent advances in the field of dermatotherapy have resulted in research efforts focusing on the use of particle-based drug delivery systems for the stimuli-responsive release of drugs in the skin and skin appendages, i.e. hair follicles and sebaceous glands. However, effective and innocuous trigger mechanisms which result in the release of the drugs from the nanocarriers upon reaching the target structures are still lacking. For the first time, the present study demonstrated the photo-activated release of the model drug fluorescein isothiocyanate (FITC) from topically applied gold nanoparticle-doped bovine serum albumin (AuNPs-doped BSA) particles (approx. 545nm) using water-filtered infrared A (IRA) radiation in the hair follicles of an ex vivo porcine skin model. The IRA radiation-induced plasmonic heating of the AuNPs results in the partial decomposition or opening of the albumin particles and release the model drug, while control particles without AuNPs show insignificant release. The results demonstrate the feasibility of using IRA radiation to induce release of encapsulated drugs from plasmonic nanocarriers for the targeting of follicular structures. However, the risk of radiation-induced skin damage subsequent to repeated applications of high infrared dosages may be significant. Future studies should aim at determining the suitability of lower infrared A dosages, such as for medical treatment regimens which may necessitate repeated exposure to therapeutics.

STATEMENT OF SIGNIFICANCE

Follicular targeting using nanocarriers is of increasing importance in the prophylaxis and treatment of dermatological or other diseases. For the first time, the present study demonstrated the photo-activated release of the model drug fluorescein isothiocyanate (FITC) from topically applied gold nanoparticle-doped bovine serum albumin (AuNPs-doped BSA) particles using water-filtered infrared A (IRA) radiation in the hair follicles of an ex vivo porcine skin model. The results demonstrate the feasibility of using wIRA radiation to induce release of encapsulated drugs for the targeting of follicular structures, and provide a new vision on the development of optically addressable delivery systems for controlled release of drugs in the skin and skin appendages, i.e. hair follicles and sebaceous glands.