Antimelanogenic Efficacy of Melasolv (3,4,5-Trimethoxycinnamate Thymol Ester) in Melanocytes and Three-Dimensional Human Skin Equivalent

2,4,6-Triphenyl-1-hexene, an Anti-Melanogenic Compound from Marine-Derived Bacillus sp. APmarine135

Although melanin protects against ultraviolet radiation, its overproduction causes freckles and senile lentigines. Recently, various biological effects of metabolites derived from marine microorganisms have been highlighted due to their potential for biological and pharmacological applications. In this study, we discovered the anti-melanogenic effect of Bacillus sp. APmarine135 and verified the skin-whitening effect. Fractions of APmarine135 showed the melanin synthesis inhibition effect in B16 melanoma cells, and 2,4,6-triphenyl-1-hexene was identified as an active compound. The melanogenic capacity of 2,4,6-triphenyl-1-hexene (1) was investigated by assessing the intracellular melanin content in B16 cells. Treatment with 5 ppm of 2,4,6-triphenyl-1-hexene (1) for 72 h suppressed the α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-induced intracellular melanin increase to the same level as in the untreated control group. Additionally, 2,4,6-triphenyl-1-hexene (1) treatment suppressed the activity of tyrosinase, the rate-limiting enzyme for melanogenesis. Moreover, 2,4,6-triphenyl-1-hexene (1) treatment downregulated tyrosinase, Tyrp-1, and Tyrp-2 expression by inhibiting the microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF). Furthermore, 2,4,6-triphenyl-1-hexene (1) treatment decreased the melanin content in the three-dimensional (3D) human-pigmented epidermis model MelanoDerm and exerted skin-whitening effects. Mechanistically, 2,4,6-triphenyl-1-hexene (1) exerted anti-melanogenic effects by suppressing tyrosinase, Tyrp-1, and Tyrp-2 expression and activities via inhibition of the MITF. Collectively, these findings suggest that 2,4,6-triphenyl-1-hexene (1) is a promising anti-melanogenic agent in the cosmetic industry.

The Chemical Composition and Biological Activities of Essential Oil from Korean Native Thyme Bak-Ri-Hyang (Thymus quinquecostatus Celak.)

Thymus quinquecostatus Celak. (Korean name: bak-ri-hyang) is an important medicinal and aromatic herb in Korea, which is named for the spread of its fragrance over a distance of approximately 40 km. In traditional Korean systems of medicine, T. quinquecostatus has been used to treat cancer, constipation, hepatic disease, arteriosclerosis, poor circulation in women, constipation, and menstrual irregularities. At present, T. quinquecostatus is used only for ornamental and ground cover purposes. A literature search was conducted to retrieve information regarding the essential oil composition and biological properties of T. quinquecostatus from PubMed, Science Direct, Wiley, Springer, Taylor and Francis, Wiley, and other literature databases. T. quinquecostatus can be divided into different chemotypes, such as γ-terpinene, thymol, phenol, carvacrol, and geraniol, according to the presence of major components in its essential oil. Further, the essential oil from T. quinquecostatus has been reported to possess various therapeutic properties such as antioxidant, antimicrobial, anticancer, anti-inflammatory, analgesic, sleep prolonging, soothing, skin protection and whitening, anti-aging, anti-obesity, and anti-acne properties. In conclusion, this review will be helpful for utilizing the T. quinquecostatus plant in different industries including food, pharmaceuticals, pesticides, perfumery, and cosmetics.

Pseudoalteromone A, a Ubiquinone Derivative from Marine Pseudoalteromonas spp., Suppresses Melanogenesis

An ubiquinone derivative, pseudoalteromone A (1), has been isolated from two marine-derived Pseudoalteromonas spp., APmarine002 and ROA-050, and its anti-melanogenesis activity was investigated. The anti-melanogenic capacity of pseudoalteromone A was demonstrated by assessing the intracellular and extracellular melanin content and cellular tyrosinase activity in the B16 cell line, Melan-a mouse melanocyte cell line, and MNT-1 human malignant melanoma cell line. Treatment with pseudoalteromone A (40 μg/mL) for 72 h reduced α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-induced intracellular melanin production by up to 44.68% in B16 cells and 38.24% in MNT-1 cells. Notably, pseudoalteromone A induced a concentration-dependent reduction in cellular tyrosinase activity in B16 cell, and Western blot analyses showed that this inhibitory activity was associated with a significant decrease in protein levels of tyrosinase and tyrosinase-related protein 1 (Tyrp-1), suggesting that pseudoalteromone A exerts its anti-melanogenesis activity through effects on melanogenic genes. We further evaluated the skin-whitening effect of pseudoalteromone A in the three-dimensional (3D) pigmented-epidermis model, MelanoDerm, and visualized the 3D distribution of melanin by two-photon excited fluorescence imaging in this human skin equivalent. Collectively, our findings suggest that pseudoalteromone A inhibits tyrosinase activity and expression and that this accounts for its anti-melanogenic effects in melanocytes.

Tailored Functionalization of Natural Phenols to Improve Biological Activity

Phenols are widespread in nature, being the major components of several plants and essential oils. Natural phenols' anti-microbial, anti-bacterial, anti-oxidant, pharmacological and nutritional properties are, nowadays, well established. Hence, given their peculiar biological role, numerous studies are currently ongoing to overcome their limitations, as well as to enhance their activity. In this review, the functionalization of selected natural phenols is critically examined, mainly highlighting their improved bioactivity after the proper chemical transformations. In particular, functionalization of the most abundant naturally occurring monophenols, diphenols, lipidic phenols, phenolic acids, polyphenols and curcumin derivatives is explored.

Panax ginseng-Derived Extracellular Vesicles Facilitate Anti-Senescence Effects in Human Skin Cells: An Eco-Friendly and Sustainable Way to Use Ginseng Substances

Ginseng is a traditional herbal medicine in eastern Asian countries. Most active constituents in ginseng are prepared via fermentation or organic acid pretreatment. Extracellular vesicles (EVs) are released by most organisms from prokaryotes to eukaryotes and play central roles in intra- and inter-species communications. Plants produce EVs upon exposure to microbes; however, their direct functions and utility for human health are barely known, except for being proposed as delivery vehicles. In this study, we isolated EVs from ginseng roots (GrEVs) or the culture supernatants of ginseng cells (GcEVs) derived from Panax ginseng C.A. Meyer and investigated their biological effects on human skin cells. GrEV or GcEV treatments improved the replicative senescent or senescence-associated pigmented phenotypes of human dermal fibroblasts or ultraviolet B radiation-treated human melanocytes, respectively, by downregulating senescence-associated molecules and/or melanogenesis-related proteins. Based on comprehensive lipidomic analysis using liquid chromatography mass spectrometry, the lipidomic profile of GrEVs differed from that of the parental root extracts, showing significant increases in 70 of 188 identified lipid species and prominent increases in diacylglycerols, some phospholipids (phosphatidylcholine, phosphatidylethanolamine, lysophosphatidylcholine), and sphingomyelin, revealing their unique vesicular properties. Therefore, our results imply that GEVs represent a novel type of bioactive and sustainable nanomaterials that can be applied to human tissues for improving tissue conditions and targeted delivery of active constituents.

Clinical brightening efficacy and safety of Melasolv™ (3,4,5-trimethoxy cinnamate thymol ester, TCTE) in Southeast Asian women

BACKGROUND

Skin darkening because of increased and irregular synthesis of melanin causes melasma, solar lentigo, and freckles. Melasolv™, produced in the early 2000s, shows potent depigmenting effect and has low cytotoxicity. It has been used as a brightening agent in cosmetics for decades.

AIMS

This study was conducted to investigate whether Melasolv™ is effective for the skin of ASEAN (Southeast Asia) women.

METHODS

We recruited ASEAN women in Singapore and divided them into two groups (active group vs. placebo group). Melasolv^™ and placebo formulations were applied twice a day for 12 weeks. The changes in the pigmented spots were visually evaluated by an expert and assessed using a spectrophotometer and Mexameter at 0, 4, 8, and 12 weeks.

RESULTS

The visual evaluation revealed significant improvements, in both size and color intensity, in the active group compared with those in the placebo group at 12 weeks. In the spectrophotometric evaluation, the L* value of the pigmented spots in the active group was significantly higher than that in the placebo group at 12 weeks. Similar results were obtained in the evaluation using the Mexameter. After 12 weeks, the melanin index of the pigmented spots significantly decreased, and it was significantly higher than that in the placebo group. There was no significant change in the erythema index. In the image analysis, there were no significant differences in skin color brightness and evenness in the active group compared with those in the placebo group.

CONCLUSION

Melasolv^™ can be effective used for skin brightening.

Melasolv induces melanosome autophagy to inhibit pigmentation in B16F1 cells

The melanosome is a specialized membrane-bound organelle that is involved in melanin synthesis, storage, and transportation. In contrast to melanosome biogenesis, the processes underlying melanosome degradation remain largely unknown. Autophagy is a process that promotes degradation of intracellular components' cooperative process between autophagosomes and lysosomes, and its role for process of melanosome degradation remains unclear. Here, we assessed the regulation of autophagy and its contributions to depigmentation associated with Melasolv (3,4,5-trimethoxycinnamate thymol ester). B16F1 cells-treated with Melasolv suppressed the α-MSH-stimulated increase of melanin content and resulted in the activation of autophagy. However, introduction of bafilomycin A1 strongly suppressed melanosome degradation in Melasolv-treated cells. Furthermore, inhibition of autophagy by ATG5 resulted in significant suppression of Melasolv-mediated depigmentation in α-MSH-treated cells. Taken together, our results suggest that treatment with Melasolv inhibits skin pigmentation by promoting melanosome degradation via autophagy activation.

Tyrosinase-Targeting Gallacetophenone Inhibits Melanogenesis in Melanocytes and Human Skin-Equivalents

Demands for safe depigmentation compounds are constantly increasing in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industry, since the numerous relevant compounds reported to date have shown undesirable side effects or low anti-melanogenic effects. In this study, we reported three novel inhibitors of tyrosinase, which is the key enzyme in melanogenesis, identified using docking-based high throughput virtual screening of an in-house natural compound library followed by mushroom tyrosinase inhibition assay. Of the three compounds, gallacetophenone showed high anti-melanogenic effect in both human epidermal melanocytes and a 3D human skin model, MelanoDerm. The inhibitory effect of gallacetophenone on tyrosinase was elucidated by computational molecular modeling at the atomic level. Binding of gallacetophenone to the active site of tyrosinase was found to be stabilized by hydrophobic interactions with His367, Ile368, and Val377; hydrogen bonding with Ser380 and a water molecule bridging the copper ions. Thus, our results strongly suggested gallacetophenone as an anti-melanogenic ingredient that inhibits tyrosinase.

Glucose Exerts an Anti-Melanogenic Effect by Indirect Inactivation of Tyrosinase in Melanocytes and a Human Skin Equivalent

Sugars are ubiquitous in organisms and well-known cosmetic ingredients for moisturizing skin with minimal side-effects. Glucose, a simple sugar used as an energy source by living cells, is often used in skin care products. Several reports have demonstrated that sugar and sugar-related compounds have anti-melanogenic effects on melanocytes. However, the underlying molecular mechanism by which glucose inhibits melanin synthesis is unknown, even though glucose is used as a whitening as well as moisturizing ingredient in cosmetics. Herein, we found that glucose significantly reduced the melanin content of α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (MSH)-stimulated B16 cells and darkly pigmented normal human melanocytes with no signs of cytotoxicity. Furthermore, topical treatment of glucose clearly demonstrated its whitening efficacy through photography, Fontana-Masson (F&M) staining, and multi-photon microscopy in a pigmented 3D human skin model, MelanoDerm. However, glucose did not alter the gene expression or protein levels of major melanogenic proteins in melanocytes. While glucose potently decreased intracellular tyrosinase activity in melanocytes, it did not reduce mushroom tyrosinase activity in a cell-free experimental system. However, glucose was metabolized into lactic acid, which can powerfully suppress tyrosinase activity. Thus, we concluded that glucose indirectly inhibits tyrosinase activity through conversion into lactic acid, explaining its anti-melanogenic effects in melanocytes.

Assessment of Melanogenesis in a Pigmented Human Tissue-Cultured Skin Equivalent

Background:

Organotypic tissue-cultured skin equivalents are used for a broad range of applications either as possible substitute for animal tests or for transplantation in patient-centered care.

Aims:

In this study, we implemented melanocytes in a tissue-cultured full-thickness skin equivalent, consisting of epidermis and dermis. The versatility of this skin-like model with respect to pigmentation and morphological criteria was tested.

Materials and Methods:

Pigmented skin equivalents were morphologically characterized, and melanogenesis was evaluated after treatment with kojic acid – a tyrosinase inhibitor and forskolin – a well-known activator of the cyclic adenosine 3,5-monophosphate pathway. Pigmentation was measured either by determination of the extinction at 400 nm after melanin extraction with KOH correlated to a melanin standard curve or by reflectance colorimetric analysis, monitoring reflectance of 660 nm and 880 nm emitting diodes.

Results:

The morphological analysis revealed characteristic epidermal stratification with melanocytes located at the basal layer. Stimulation with forskolin increased the pigmentation, whereas treatment with kojic acid caused bleaching.

Conclusion:

The present study demonstrates that the herein-introduced organotypic tissue-cultured skin equivalent is comparable to the normal human skin and its versatility in tests regarding skin pigmentation. Therefore, this model might help understand diseases with dysfunctional pigmentation such as melasma, vitiligo, and postinflammatory hyperpigmentation.

Dehydroabietic Acid Induces Regeneration of Collagen Fibers in Ultraviolet B-Irradiated Human Dermal Fibroblasts and Skin Equivalents

BACKGROUND/AIMS

Dehydroabietic acid (DAA) is a natural phytochemical found in red pine trees and herbal plants. While DAA and its derivatives are known for improving diabetes and hyperlipidemia, the antiaging effect and its underlying mechanisms of DAA on skin have not been fully examined. Here, we assessed the antiaging effects of DAA on human dermal fibroblasts and skin equivalents.

METHODS

We investigated the effect of DAA on the secretion of type I procollagen and matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) in ultraviolet B (UVB)-irradiated neonatal normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDFn). Using nonlinear optical imaging techniques, we visualized quantitative and qualitative changes of collagen fibers by DAA treatment in human skin equivalent models.

RESULTS

DAA induces increases in type I procollagen secretion when treated on UVB-irradiated NHDFn. DAA also downregulates secretion of MMP-1 through the inhibition of the JNK signaling pathway. In human skin equivalent models, we successfully visualized the spatial distribution of collagen fibers in the dermis and found that quantity, diameter, and arrangement of collagen fibers in the dermis were significantly improved by DAA treatment.

CONCLUSION

Our results suggest that DAA could be a useful agent for improving skin photoaging through the protection and regeneration of collagen fibers in skin.

Mannosylerythritol lipids inhibit melanogenesis via suppressing ERK-CREB-MiTF-tyrosinase signalling in normal human melanocytes and a three-dimensional human skin equivalent

Hyperpigmentation is caused by excessive production of melanin in melanocytes. Mannosylerythritol lipids (MELs) are glycolipid biosurfactants that are abundantly produced by yeasts and used commercially in cosmetics. However, the potential depigmenting efficacy of MELs has not been evaluated. In this study, the depigmentary effect of MELs was tested in primary normal human melanocytes (NHMs), α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (MSH)-stimulated B16 cells (murine melanoma cells) and a human skin equivalent (MelanoDerm) using photography, Fontana-Masson (F&M) staining and two-photon microscopy. Mannosylerythritol lipids significantly decreased the melanin contents in NHMs and α-MSH-stimulated B16 cells. Consistent with these findings, MELs treatment had a clear whitening effect in a human skin equivalent, brightening the tissue colour and reducing the melanin content. The molecular mechanism underlying the anti-melanogenic effect of MELs treatment was examined by real-time PCR and Western blotting. Mechanistically, MELs clearly suppressed the gene expression levels of representative melanogenic enzymes, including tyrosinase, Tyrp-1 and Tyrp-2, by inhibiting the ERK/CREB/MiTF signalling pathway in NHMs. This work demonstrates for the first time that MELs exert whitening effects on human melanocytes and skin equivalent. Thus, we suggest that MELs could be developed as a potent anti-melanogenic agent for effective whitening, beyond their use as a biosurfactant in cosmetics.