Nanoscale Molecular Characterization of Hair Cuticle Cells Using Integrated Atomic Force Microscopy-Infrared Laser Spectroscopy

Evaluation of hair surface structure and morphology of patients with lichen planopilaris (LPP) by atomic force microscopy (AFM)

BACKGROUND

Lichen planopilaris (LPP) is a chronic lymphocytic skin disease manifested by progressive scarring alopecia. The diagnosis of LPP is made based on histopathological examination, although it is not always definite. The current study evaluates the effectiveness of non-invasive atomic force microscopy (AFM) hair examination in detecting morphological differences between healthy and diseased hair.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Here, three to five hairs from lesional skin of 10 LPP patients were collected and examined at nine locations using AFM. At least four images were taken at each of the nine sites. Metric measurements were taken and metric (length, width, and scale step height) and morphological features (striated and smooth surface of scales, the presence of endocuticle and cortex, shape of scales edges, scratches, pitting, cracks, globules, and wavy edge) were compared with hair from healthy controls. In addition, areas on diseased hair where the process of pathological, unnatural delamination of the hair fiber occurs are described.

RESULTS

There was a statistically significant difference in the number of scratches in the initial sections of the LPP hair, in the intensity of wavy edges along the entire length of the tested hair, and in the number of scales with pitting in the middle section of the hair. In addition, a statistically significant higher number of scales with striated surface was found in LPP group starting at 3.5 cm from the root continuing towards the free end of the hair. Other morphological changes such as presence of cortex, globules, oval indentations, and rod-like macrofibrillar elements were also assessed, however, detailed results are not presented, as the differences shown in the number of these morphological changes were not significantly different.

CONCLUSION

This publication outlines the differences between virgin, healthy Caucasian hair, and the hair of LPP patients. The results of this study can be used for further research and work related to LPP. This is the first attempt to characterize the hair of LPP patients using AFM.

Spectral histology of hair and hair follicle using infrared microspectroscopy

OBJECTIVE

Today, there is only limited knowledge of the spatial organization of hair chemistry. Infrared microspectroscopy is a well-established tool to provide such information and has significantly contributed to this field. In this study, we present new results combining multiple infrared microspectroscopy methods at different length scales to create a better chemical histology of human hair, including the hair follicle, hair shaft, hair medulla and hair cuticle.

METHODS

We used hyperspectral IR imaging & spectroscopy (HIRIS) and synchrotron-radiation FTIR microspectroscopy (SR-μFTIR) to measure transversal hair sections and SR-μFTIR to obtain high-resolution maps of longitudinal sections from the hair shaft and from the hair follicle. We used optical photothermal IR microspectroscopy (OPTIR) to analyse the cuticle surface of intact hairs.

RESULTS

By mapping longitudinal sections of the human hair follicle with confocal SR-μFTIR, we report the first demonstration of glycogen presence in the outer root sheath of the hair follicle by spectroscopy, and its quantification at the micron scale. Spectral maps, combined with machine learning-based analysis, enabled us to differentiate the various layers of the hair follicle and provided insights into the chemical changes that occur during hair formation in the follicle. Using HIRIS and SR-μFTIR to analyse the hair medulla in transversal sections of human hairs, we report here, for the first time by vibrational spectroscopy methods, the detection of unsaturated lipids at very low concentrations in the medulla. By analysing longitudinal sections of the hair shaft with SR-μFTIR, we found that calcium carboxylates are present in large regions of the hair cuticle, and not just in small focal areas as previously thought. We then use OPTIR to analyse the hair cuticle of intact hairs at submicron resolution without sectioning and report the distribution of calcium carboxylates at the surface of intact hair for the first time.

CONCLUSION

These new findings illustrate the potential of infrared microspectroscopy for imaging the chemical composition of human hair and may have implications for biomedical research or cosmetology.

Evaluation of Surface Structure and Morphological Phenomena of Caucasian Virgin Hair with Atomic Force Microscopy

Background and Objectives: Atomic force microscopy (AFM) as a type of scanning microscopy (SPM), which has a resolution of fractions of a nanometer on the atomic scale, is widely used in materials science. To date, research using AFM in medicine has focused on neurodegenerative diseases, osteoporosis, cancer tumors, cell receptors, proteins and the DNA mismatch repair (MMR) system. Only a few small studies of hair imaging have been conducted, mostly in biotechnology or cosmetology. Thanks to the possibilities offered by AFM imaging, dermatologists can non-invasively assess the condition of hair and its possible disorders. Our goal was to capture images and microscopically analyze morphological changes in the surface of healthy hair. Materials and Methods: In this study, three to five hairs were collected from each person. Each hair was examined at nine locations (0.5; 1.0; 1.5; 2.0; 3.5; 4.5; 5.5; 6.5 and 7.0 cm from the root). At least 4 images (4-10 images) were taken at each of the 9 locations. A total of 496 photos were taken and analyzed. Metric measurements of hair scales, such as apparent length, width and scale step height, were taken. Results: This publication presents the changes occurring in hair during the natural delamination process. In addition, morphoological changes visualized on the surface of healthy hair (pitting, oval indentations, rod-shaped macro-fibrillar elements, globules, scratches, wavy edge) are presented. A quantitative analysis of the structures found was carried out. Conclusions: The findings of this study can be used in further research and work related to the subject of human hair. They can serve as a reference for research on scalp and hair diseases, as well as hair care.

Interactions between Damaged Hair Keratin and Juglone as a Possible Restoring Agent: A Vibrational and Scanning Electron Microscopy Study

Juglone, a quinonic compound present in walnut extracts, was proposed as a restoring agent for hair keratin treated with permanent or discoloration processes. The proposed mechanism of restoration by juglone involves the formation of a Michael adduct between the quinone and the thiol moieties of cysteine residues. To this purpose, the first part of the present paper involved the spectroscopic study of the product of the reaction between juglone and N-acetyl-L-cysteine as a model compound. IR spectroscopy and Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM) monitored the chemical and morphological variations induced by applying juglone to hair keratin. In order to simulate the most common hair treatments (i.e., permanent and discoloration), juglone was applied to hair that had been previously treated with a reducing agent, i.e., methyl thioglycolate (MT) or with bleaching agents (based on hydrogen peroxide and persulfates) followed by sodium hydrogen sulfite. IR spectroscopy allowed us to monitor the formation of Michael adducts between juglone and cysteine residues: the Michael adducts' content was related to the cysteine content of the samples. In fact, MT and sodium hydrogen sulfite favored the reduction of the disulfide bonds and increased the content of free cysteine residues, which can react with juglone. SEM analyses confirmed the trend observed by IR spectroscopy since hair samples treated with juglone adopted a more regular hair surface and more imbricated scales, thus supporting the possible use of juglone as a restoring agent for damaged hair keratins.

AFM-IR for Nanoscale Chemical Characterization in Life Sciences: Recent Developments and Future Directions

Despite the ubiquitous absorption of mid-infrared (IR) radiation by virtually all molecules that belong to the major biomolecules groups (proteins, lipids, carbohydrates, nucleic acids), the application of conventional IR microscopy to the life sciences remained somewhat limited, due to the restrictions on spatial resolution imposed by the diffraction limit (in the order of several micrometers). This issue is addressed by AFM-IR, a scanning probe-based technique that allows for chemical analysis at the nanoscale with resolutions down to 10 nm and thus has the potential to contribute to the investigation of nano and microscale biological processes. In this perspective, in addition to a concise description of the working principles and operating modes of AFM-IR, we present and evaluate the latest key applications of AFM-IR to the life sciences, summarizing what the technique has to offer to this field. Furthermore, we discuss the most relevant current limitations and point out potential future developments and areas for further application for fruitful interdisciplinary collaboration.

Hair surface interactions against different chemical functional groups as a function of environment and hair condition

OBJECTIVE

The nature and magnitude of molecular interactions on hair surfaces underpin the design of formulated products, of which the application involves a competitive adsorption process between cationic surfactants, fatty alcohols and surface actives such as silicone. The knowledge of molecular interaction with hair surface will not only provide insight on the surface binding affinity but also offer an effective methodology in characterizing surface deposits.

METHODS

Untreated and chemically treated hair samples were treated with either conditioner chassis alone (gel network) or conditioner chassis plus silicone (chassis/TAS). Hair surface interactions against four different chemical functional groups, namely methyl (-CH3 ), acid (-COOH), amine (-NH2 ) and hydroxyl (-OH), were quantified in both ambient and aqueous environment using Chemical Force Microscopy, a method based on atomic force microscopy (AFM).

RESULTS

Surface adhesion on hair in ambient is dominated by capillary force that is determined by both the wettability of hair fibre (hydrophobic vs. hydrophilic), presence of any deposits and the chemical functionality of the AFM cantilever. Capillary force is diminished and replaced by electrostatic interaction when polar groups are present on both hair and AFM cantilever. A distinctively different force, hydrophobic interaction, plays a major role when virgin hair and hydrophobic functionalized AFM cantilever make contact in water.

CONCLUSION

Results acquired by AFM cantilevers of different functional groups show that hydrophobic interaction is a key driver for deposition on virgin hair, whilst electrostatic interaction is the most important one for bleached hair. Interfacial conformation of chassis components upon deposition is determined by the hair surface properties. Our study highlights the possibility of a range of polar groups, not necessarily negatively charged, on the damaged hair. Unlike conventional surface chemical analysis method, it is possible to quantitatively evaluate the interfacial conformation of deposited surface actives on hair, which identifies the target moieties for conditioning products on different types of hair.

A systematic review on the lipid composition of human hair

Hair lipid composition varies by ethnic hair type and by hair layer. Lipids in the cuticle, cortex, and medulla of the hair shaft provide a protective barrier to environmental and chemical damage, prevent hair breakage and desorption, and affect the elastic and tensile properties of hair. The aim of this systematic review is to provide an overview of the lipid composition and ethnic differences of human hair, effects of external damage on lipid content and properties, and changes in hair lipid composition associated with disease states. PubMed/MEDLINE was searched up to March 2021 according to PRISMA guidelines for articles discussing the lipid content of human hair and effects of physical, chemical, or environmental damage, and disease. Fifty-nine articles investigating the lipid content of hair were included for review. Lipids affect fluid permeability, hydration, strength, and texture of ethnic hair fibers. Lipid loss is accelerated by hair-damaging treatments such as bleach, dye, perm, straightening, and surfactant use, and sun and aging processes, leading to dehydrated, breakable, disordered, and dull hair. Diseases including acne, alopecia, and breast, gastric, prostate, lung, and rectal cancers display elevated hair lipid levels. Lipids are vital in protection against damage and maintenance of healthy hair. Further studies are needed to investigate the effects of lipids on the structural properties of ethnic hair, and changes in hair lipid composition with various dermatologic and systemic diseases.

Coarse-grained molecular models of the surface of hair

We present a coarse-grained molecular model of the surface of human hair, which consists of a supported lipid monolayer, in the MARTINI framework. Using coarse-grained molecular dynamics (MD) simulations, we identify a lipid grafting distance that yields a monolayer thickness consistent with both atomistic MD simulations and experimental measurements of the hair surface. Coarse-grained models for fully-functionalised, partially damaged, and fully damaged hair surfaces are created by randomly replacing neutral thioesters with anionic sulfonate groups. This mimics the progressive removal of fatty acids from the hair surface by bleaching and leads to chemically heterogeneous surfaces. Using molecular dynamics (MD) simulations, we study the island structures formed by the lipid monolayers at different degrees of damage in vacuum and in the presence of polar (water) and non-polar (n-hexadecane) solvents. We also use MD simulations to compare the wetting behaviour of water and n-hexadecane droplets on the model surfaces through contact angle measurements, which are compared to experiments using virgin and bleached hair. The model surfaces capture the experimentally-observed transition of the hair surface from hydrophobic (and oleophilic) to hydrophilic (and oleophobic) as the level of bleaching damage increases. By selecting surfaces with specific damage ratios, we obtain contact angles from the MD simulations that are in good agreement with experiments for both solvents on virgin and bleached human hairs. To negate the possible effects of microscale curvature and roughness of real hairs on wetting, we also conduct additional experiments using biomimetic surfaces that are co-functionalised with fatty acids and sulfonate groups. In both the MD simulations and experiments, the cosine of the water contact angle increases linearly with the sulfonate group surface coverage with a similar slope. We expect that the proposed systems will be useful for future molecular dynamics simulations of the adsorption and tribological behaviour of hair, as well as other chemically heterogeneous surfaces.

Probing the Nanoscale Heterogeneous Mixing in a High-Performance Polymer Blend

The blend of polyetheretherketone (PEEK) and polybenzimidazole (PBI) produces a high-performance blend (PPB) that is a potential replacement material in several industries due to its high temperature stability and desirable tribological properties. Understanding the nanoscale structure and interface of the two domains of the blend is critical for elucidating the origin of these desirable properties. Whilst achieving the physical characterisation of the domain structures is relatively uncomplicated, the elucidation of structures at the interface presents a significant experimental challenge. In this work, we combine atomic force microscopy (AFM) with an IR laser (AFM-IR) and thermal cantilever probes (nanoTA) to gain insights into the chemical heterogeneity and extent of mixing within the blend structure for the first time. The AFM-IR and nanoTA measurements show that domains in the blend are compositionally different from those of the pure PEEK and PBI polymers, with significant variations observed in a transition region several microns wide in proximity to domain boundary. This strongly points to physical mixing of the two components on a molecular scale at the interface. The versatility intrinsic to the combined methodology employed in this work provides nano- and microscale chemical information that can be used to understand the link between properties of different length scales across a wide range of materials.

Site-specific variations in surface structure and Young's modulus of human hair surfaces at the nanometer scale as induced through bleach treatment

The effect of bleach treatments on the morphology and mechanical properties of hair surfaces was measured at the nanometer scale using atomic force microscopy. We used an ultrahigh-precision relocation technique to observe the variations in these properties at precise locations on hair surfaces in their virgin state and then after each of the two bleach treatments, to rule out position-dependent fluctuations. We demonstrate that statistically significant variations in roughness and Young's modulus are observed as a result of exposure to bleach, which is known to disrupt the disulfide linkage network throughout the fiber. The rate at which surface roughness changes increased with the number of treatments, with very little effect seen after 10 min, and an increase of up to 65% was observed after a further 10 min. The Young's modulus decreased by up to 40% after each treatment. We also investigate micropores and show that they are subsurface, but revealed through bleaching, and oriented along the direction of the hair shaft with a characteristic aspect ratio. This work demonstrates the profound effect bleaching has on the molecular structure of hair, which manifests as changes in morphology and stiffness, and this should be taken into account in the formulation of future hair-care products.

Chemically characterizing the cortical cell nano-structure of human hair using atomic force microscopy integrated with infrared spectroscopy (AFM-IR)

OBJECTIVE

The use of conventional microscopy and vibrational spectroscopy in the optical region to investigate the chemical nature of hair fibres on a nanometre scale is frustrated by the diffraction limit of light, prohibiting the spectral elucidation of nanoscale sub-structures that contribute to the bulk properties of hair. The aim of this work was to overcome this limitation and gain unprecedented chemical resolution of cortical cell nano-structure of hair.

METHODS

The hybrid technique of AFM-IR, combining atomic force microscopy with an IR laser, circumvents the diffraction limit of light and achieves nanoscale chemical resolution down to the AFM tip radius. In this work, AFM-IR was employed on ultra-thin microtomed cross-sections of human hair fibres to spectrally distinguish and characterize the specific protein structures and environments within the nanoscale components of cortical cells.

RESULTS

At first, a topographical and chemical distinction between the macrofibrils and the surrounding intermacrofibillar matrix was achieved based on 2.5 × 2.5 μm maps of cortical cell cross-sections. It was found that the intermacrofibrillar matrix has a large protein content and specific cysteine-related residues, whereas the macrofibrils showed bigger contributions from aliphatic amino acid residues and acidic-/ester-containing species (e.g. lipids). Localized spectra recorded at a spatial resolution of the order of the AFM tip radius enabled the chemical composition of each region to be determined following deconvolution of the Amide-I and Amide-II bands. This provided specific evidence for a greater proportion of α-helices in the macrofibrils and correspondingly larger contributions of β-sheet secondary structures in the intermacrofibrillar matrix, as inferred in earlier studies. Analysis of the parallel and antiparallel β-sheet structures, and of selected dominant amino acid residues, yielded further novel composition and conformation results for both regions.

CONCLUSION

In this work, we overcome the diffraction limit of light using atomic force microscopy integrated with IR laser spectroscopy (AFM-IR) to characterize sub-micron features of the hair cortex at ultra-high spatial resolution. The resulting spectral analysis shows clear distinctions in the Amide bands in the macrofibrils and surrounding intermacrofibrillar matrix, yielding novel insight into the molecular structure and intermolecular stabilization interactions of the constituent proteins within each cortical component.

Using hybrid atomic force microscopy and infrared spectroscopy (AFM-IR) to identify chemical components of the hair medulla on the nanoscale

Atomic force microscopy integrated with infrared spectroscopy (AFM-IR) has been used to topographically and chemically examine the medulla of human hair fibres with nanometre scale lateral resolution. The mapping of cross-sections of the medulla showed two distinct structural components which were subsequently characterised spectroscopically. One of these components was shown to be closely similar to cortical cell species, consistent with the fibrillar structures found in previous electron microscope (EM) investigations. The other component showed large chemical differences from cortical cells and was assigned to globular vacuole species, also confirming EM observations. Further characterisation of the two components was achieved through spectral deconvolution of the protein Amide-I and -II bands. This showed that the vacuoles have a greater proportion of the most thermodynamically stable conformation, namely the antiparallel β-sheet structures. This chimes with the observed lower cysteine concentration, indicating a lower proportion of restrictive disulphide cross-link bonding. Furthermore, the large α-helix presence within the vacuoles points to a loss of matrix-like material as well as significant intermolecular stabilisation of the protein structures. By analysing the carbonyl stretching region, it was established that the fibrillar, cortical cell-like components showed considerable stabilisation from H-bonding interactions, similar to the cortex, involving amino acid side chains whereas, in contrast, the vacuoles were found to only be stabilised significantly by structural lipids.