Tracing skin aging process: a mini- review of in vitro approaches

Skin is a rather complex, yet useful organ of our body. Besides, skin aging is a complicated process that gains a growing interest as mediates many molecular processes in our body. Thus, an efficient skin model is important to understand skin aging function as well as to develop an effective innovative product for skin aging treatment. In this mini review, we present in vitro methods for assessments of skin aging in an attempt to pinpoint basic molecular mechanisms behind this process achieving both a better understanding of aging function and an effective  evaluation of potential products or ingredients that counteract aging. Specifically, this study presents in vitro assays such as 2D or 3D skin models, to evaluate skin aging-related processes such as skin moisturization, photoaging, wound healing, menopause, and skin microbiome as novel efforts in the designing of efficacy assessments in the development of skincare products.

Cytotoxic effect of protic ionic liquids in HepG2 and HaCat human cells: in vitro and in silico studies

Protic ionic liquids (PILs) are innovative chemical compounds, which due to their peculiar nature and amazing physico-chemical properties, have been studied as potential sustainable solvents in many areas of modern science, such as in the industrial fields of textile dyeing, pharmaceuticals, biotechnology, energy and many others. Due to their more than probable large-scale use in a short space of time, a wider analysis in terms of ecotoxicity and biological safety to humans has been attracting significant attention, once many ionic liquids were found to be "a little less than green compounds" towards cells and living organisms. The aim of this study is to investigate the cytotoxicity of 13 recently synthesized PILs, as well as to reinforce knowledge in terms of key thermodynamic magnitudes. All the studied compounds were tested for their in vitro toxic activities on two human cell lines (normal keratinocytes HaCaT and hepatocytes HepG2). In addition, due to the enormous number of possible combinations of anions and cations that can form ionic liquids, a group contribution QSAR model has been tested in order to predict their cytotoxicity. The estimated and experimental values were adequately correlated (correlation coefficient R 2 = 0.9260). The experimental obtained results showed their remarkable low toxicity for the studied in vitro systems.

Establishment and evaluation of immortalized human epidermal keratinocytes for an alternative skin irritation test

Human skin is located at the outermost part of the body, and various cosmetics and chemicals that may come in contact with human skin need to be evaluated for their potential to cause irritation. Until recently, the Draize test was considered the standard method for skin irritation; however, this technique has disadvantages such as the need to sacrifice many rabbits and subjective scoring. Thus, to contribute to the development of an animal-free alternative skin irritation test, we investigated the cytotoxicity and inflammatory response to standard skin irritants in SV40 large T antigen-transformed human epidermal keratinocyte 2 cells (SV-HEK2 cells). In this study, we established an SV-HEK2 cell line immortalized by SV40 large T antigen (SV40 T) and characterized the inherent morphological and cytological properties. We next used 3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2,5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide (MTT) or neutral red uptake (NRU) assays of cell viability to investigate the optimal experimental conditions for determining SV-HEK2 cell viability after exposure to sodium dodecyl sulfate at 6.25×10^-3% to 1×10^-1% as a standard skin irritant. We then examined the viability of SV-HEK2 cells in response to five skin irritants (benzalkonium chloride, isopropanol, sodium dodecyl sulfate, Triton X-100 and Tween20) at 5×10^-3% to 1×10^-1% by MTT or NRU assay. Finally, we estimated the level of cytokines secretion in response to stimulation by skin irritants in SV-HEK2 cells. The results revealed that SV-HEK2 cells responded well to skin irritants in a concentration-dependent manner and that there was good correlation between irritant concentration and cytotoxicity (or cytokine secretion) when cells were exposed to skin irritants for 10min at room temperature (RT) using an MTT assay. Overall, these findings suggest that SV-HEK2 cells could be a good alternative in vitro model for skin irritation tests.

Human skin organ culture for assessment of chemically induced skin damage

The move away from animal models for skin safety testing is inevitable. It is a question of when, not if. As skin safety studies move away from traditional animal-based approaches, a number of replacement technologies are becoming available. Human skin in organ culture is one such technology. Organ-cultured skin has several features that distinguish it from other technologies. First and foremost, organ-cultured skin is real skin. Almost by definition, therefore, it approximates the intact skin better than other alternative models. Organ culture is an easy-to-use and relatively inexpensive approach to preclinical safety assessment. Although organ culture is not likely to replace high-throughput enzyme assays or monolayer culture/skin equivalent cultures for initial compound assessment, organ culture should find use when the list of compounds to be evaluated is small and when simpler models have narrowed the dose range. Organ-cultured skin also provides a platform for mechanistic studies.

The StrataTest® human skin model, a consistent in vitro alternative for toxicological testing

Three-dimensional in vitro skin models provide an alternative to animal testing for assessing tissue damage caused by chemical or physical agents and for the identification and characterization of agents formulated to mitigate this damage. The StrataTest® human skin model made with pathogen-free NIKS® keratinocyte progenitors is a fully-stratified tissue containing epidermal and dermal components that possesses barrier function as determined by measurements of electrical impedance. Independent batches of skin tissues responded consistently to known chemical irritants even after refrigerated storage for up to 7 days. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) were detected after exposure of skin tissues to ozone, cigarette smoke or ultraviolet (UV) irradiation. Pretreatment with the antioxidant parthenolide-depleted (PD)-Feverfew extract prevented cigarette smoke-induced or UV irradiation-mediated increases in ROS. Interleukin (IL)-1α and IL-1 receptor antagonist (IL-1RA) secretion increased in a dose dependent manner following UV irradiation but cytokine release was abrogated by pretreatment with a UVA/UVB sunscreen. Similarly, immunohistochemical detection showed increased thymidine dimer formation in UV-irradiated skin tissue that was prevented with sunscreen pretreatment. These results demonstrate that the StrataTest® human skin model is broadly applicable to a wide range of in vitro toxicological assays.

Assessment of human epidermal model LabCyte EPI-MODEL for in vitro skin irritation testing according to European Centre for the Validation of Alternative Methods (ECVAM)-validated protocol

A validation study of an in vitro skin irritation testing method using a reconstructed human skin model has been conducted by the European Centre for the Validation of Alternative Methods (ECVAM), and a protocol using EpiSkin (SkinEthic, France) has been approved. The structural and performance criteria of skin models for testing are defined in the ECVAM Performance Standards announced along with the approval. We have performed several evaluations of the new reconstructed human epidermal model LabCyte EPI-MODEL, and confirmed that it is applicable to skin irritation testing as defined in the ECVAM Performance Standards. We selected 19 materials (nine irritants and ten non-irritants) available in Japan as test chemicals among the 20 reference chemicals described in the ECVAM Performance Standard. A test chemical was applied to the surface of the LabCyte EPI-MODEL for 15 min, after which it was completely removed and the model then post-incubated for 42 hr. Cell v iability was measured by MTT assay and skin irritancy of the test chemical evaluated. In addition, interleukin-1 alpha (IL-1alpha) concentration in the culture supernatant after post-incubation was measured to provide a complementary evaluation of skin irritation. Evaluation of the 19 test chemicals resulted in 79% accuracy, 78% sensitivity and 80% specificity, confirming that the in vitro skin irritancy of the LabCyte EPI-MODEL correlates highly with in vivo skin irritation. These results suggest that LabCyte EPI-MODEL is applicable to the skin irritation testing protocol set out in the ECVAM Performance Standards.

Quantitative structure-property relationships modeling of skin irritation

Interest in developing procedures for estimating skin irritation potential of chemicals has been increasing as a result of concerns regarding animal welfare and costs involved in experimental irritation studies. In response to these concerns, a number of expert systems and quantitative structure-activity relationship (QSAR) models have been proposed for predicting the skin irritation potential of compounds. However, these models require as input independent estimates of several physiochemical properties. Hence, to predict skin irritation potential using these models often requires additional models capable of estimating the physiochemical properties of diverse structures; a requirement that most literature QSARs fail to meet. In the work reported here, we developed a skin irritation QSPR model based on rabbit Draize test data for 186 compounds, which included chemicals from diverse molecular classes. The effectiveness of using a combination of traditional, functional group and structural descriptors has been studied. Our non-linear QSPR model is capable of predicting the skin irritation potential of chemical compounds with an R2 of 0.78. Further, the final set of descriptors used to model skin irritation was analyzed to elucidate the effects of molecular size, reactivity and skin penetration on skin irritation.

Assessment of primary eye and skin irritants by in vitro cytotoxicity and phototoxicity models: an in vitro approach of new arginine-based surfactant-induced irritation

Extensive efforts have been made, recently, to find surfactants with lower irritation potential than those presently commercially available, for use in pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations. Cytotoxic and phototoxic effects of a novel family of dicationic arginine-diglyceride surfactant compounds, 1,2-diacyl,3-O-(l-arginyl)-rac-glycerol with alkyl chain lengths in the range from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, were compared to three commercial surfactants. The end-points used to assess toxicity were the red blood cell lysis assay and uptake of the vital dye neutral red 24h after dosing (NRU), respectively. Two immortalized cell lines, murine fibroblast cell line, 3T3, and one human keratinocyte cell line, HaCaT, were used as in vitro models to predict the potential phototoxicity which could result in irritation, determined by resazurin reduction to resorufin and neutral red uptake (NRU). All tested surfactants had cytotoxicity effects as demonstrated by and decrease of NR uptake, which showed a clear concentration-response relationship. Concentrations resulting in 50% inhibition of NR uptake (IC(50)) range from 1 microM(-1) (hexadecyl trimethyl ammonium bromide) to 565 microM(-1) (12,12-l-arginine). Erythrocyte haemolysis also showed a clear concentration-response relationship, the 50% of haemolysis ranged from 37 microM(-1) (10,10-l-arginine) to 151 microM(-1) (sodium lauryl sulphate). Phototoxicity was performed with 12,12-l-acetyl-arginine, the most stable chemical structure. The validated 3T3 NRU photoxicity assay was used and revealed a phototoxic potential.

Validity and ethics of the human 4-h patch test as an alternative method to assess acute skin irritation potential

For more than 50 years, the Draize rabbit skin irritation test has reigned supreme as the regulatory method of choice for the identification of skin irritant chemicals. To date no in vitro alternative test has been validated as an adequate replacement. However, one potential option, to test the endpoint of concern (skin irritation) in the species of concern (man) has been overlooked. The advent of predictive in vitro tools for the identification of substances corrosive to the skin has opened up the practical possibility of carrying out safe and ethical studies on small panels of humans. The human 4-h patch test has been developed to meet the needs of identifying chemical skin irritation potential, providing data which is inherently superior to that given by a surrogate model, such as the rabbit. This paper reviews in detail the present state of the human 4-h patch test, highlighting its advantages and noting its utility as the 'gold standard' on which to build future in vitro models.

Use of human skin equivalent Apligraf for in vitro assessment of cumulative skin irritation potential of topical products

The main goal of the present study was to investigate the response of the human skin equivalent Apligraf in vitro to the application of irritant substances and its predictivity as a screening tool for cumulative skin irritant potential in humans. Vaseline, calcipotriol, trans-retinoic acid, and sodium lauryl sulfate were applied to Apligraf in vitro for 24 h. Cell viability (lactate dehydrogenase leakage), release and mRNA expression of the proinflammatory cytokines IL-1alpha and IL-8, and morphological changes were assessed. The same products were applied to 30 healthy volunteers in a double-blind, randomized, vehicle-controlled within-subject study. The skin reactions after repeated 24-h applications over 3 weeks under Finn chamber patches were monitored by visual scoring and biophysical methods (trans-epidermal water loss, chromametry, and blood flow). Sodium lauryl sulfate was cytotoxic to Apligraf, and increased the release and expression of cytokines at low (0.2%, 0. 4%), but not at high (0.8%, 1%) concentrations. It induced severe irritancy in vivo. Trans-retinoic acid increased the expression and release of cytokines with no detectable cytotoxicity and showed moderate irritancy in humans. Although calcipotriol did neither affect cell viability nor the production of cytokines, it induced morphological signs of irritation and was mildly irritant for healthy volunteers. Vaseline was innocuous in vivo and induced no changes in Apligraf. In conclusion, the cumulative skin irritation potential of the tested products could be predicted with Apligraf in a sensitive and specific manner, by monitoring cytotoxicity, proinflammatory cytokines, and morphological changes.