Radiographic changes in the hands and fingers of young, high-level climbers

Overuse Injury of the Epiphyseal Primary Physis

Year-round participation in youth sport that involves high levels of repetitive movement fosters an environment in which overuse injuries are likely to occur. Epiphyseal primary physeal stress injuries (PSIs), unique to skeletally immature athletes, are a particular concern, given their potential for growth disturbance. Initially observed in Little League baseball players, these injuries are now known to affect the long bones around the shoulder, elbow, wrist, hand, knee, ankle, and foot of skeletally immature athletes involved in a variety of sport activities.This article offers an epidemiological and radiologic perspective on the extent and distribution of epiphyseal PSIs in youth sport. We also review a novel framework for understanding the pathophysiologic mechanisms causing these injuries. This information is essential for the early identification of epiphyseal PSIs and devising preventive measures that can reduce a delayed diagnosis and long-term morbidity. Preventing and reducing injury to the epiphyseal growth plates is essential because impairment and dysfunction can result in lifelong morbidity and a risk of premature osteoarthritis.

A Life Dedicated to Climbing and Its Sequelae in the Fingers-A Review of the Literature

Fingers of sport climbers are exposed to high mechanical loads. This work focuses on the fingers of a 52-year-old active elite climber who was the first in mankind to master 8B (V13), 8B+ (V14) and 8C (V15) graded boulders, bringing lifelong high-intensity loads to his hands. It is therefore hypothesized that he belongs to a small group of people with the highest accumulative loads to their fingers in the climbing scene. Fingers were analyzed by means of ultrasonography, X-rays and physical examination. Soft tissue and bone adaptations, as well as the onset of osteoarthritis and finger stiffness, were found, especially in digit III, the longest and therefore most loaded digit. Finally, this article aims to provide an overview of the current literature in this field. In conclusion, elite sport climbing results in soft tissue and bone adaptations in the fingers, and the literature provides evidence that these adaptations increase over one's career. However, at later stages, radiographic and clinical signs of osteoarthritis, especially in the middle finger, seem to occur, although they may not be symptomatic.

Primary Periphyseal Stress Injuries of the Fingers in Adolescent Climbers: A Critical Review

ABSTRACT

The worldwide rise in popularity of climbing and development of climbing as a competitive sport is reflected by its debut at the 2021 Summer Olympic Games in Tokyo. Digital primary periphyseal stress injuries in adolescent climbers may pose a significant risk to long-term skeletal health. The aim of this article is to critically review research on the diagnosis and management of primary periphyseal stress injuries of the fingers in adolescent climbers. We adopted a systematic approach to searching for relevant literature. Articles were identified after searches of the following electronic databases: Discover, Academic Search Complete, PubMed, Embase, SPORTDiscus, and ScienceDirect. Conclusive evidence suggests digital primary periphyseal stress injuries are a consequence of repetitive microtrauma. Pain reported by adolescent climbers on the dorsal aspect of the proximal interphalangeal joint should be investigated promptly to avoid serious negative consequences. Clinicians should be aware of the efficacy of imaging techniques to inform a clinical diagnosis. A conservative management approach is preferred but in rare cases surgical intervention may be necessary. A diagnostic and therapeutic algorithm for digital primary periphyseal stress injuries is presented.

Cortical Bone Thickness, Base Osteophyte Occurrence and Radiological Signs of Osteoarthritis in the Fingers of Male Elite Sport Climbers: A Cross-Sectional 10-Year Follow-Up Study

Background: Sport climbing places high mechanical loads on fingers. In 2012, our research group demonstrated adaptations of climbers’ cortical bones with the presence of osteophytes compared to non-climbing controls.

Objectives: 1) To investigate 10-year changes in cortical bone thickness, base osteophyte occurrence and radiological signs of osteoarthritis in the fingers of elite male sport climbers with more than 25 years of climbing history and 2) to compare cortical bone thickness, base osteophyte occurrence and radiological signs of osteoarthritis between male sport climbers and age-matched controls at the 10-year follow-up.

Methods: All 31 elite sport climbers who participated in both the baseline and 10-year follow-up assessments (follow-up rate 100%) were examined by means of X-rays. Cortical bone thickness, presence of osteophytes and signs of osteoarthritis according to Kellgren-Lawrence were obtained and compared to the baseline values 10 years earlier and to age-matched controls at the follow-up (n = 15).

Results: Significantly increased cortical bone thickness over the past 10 years was observed in climbers (mean absolute difference with 95% CI:0.98 mm (0.77 mm, 1.19 mm); p <0.001). Moreover, compared to age-matched controls, climbers had significantly thicker cortical bone at the 10-year follow-up (mean absolute difference with 95% CI:0.86 mm (0.61 mm, 1.12 mm); p <0.001). In climbers, osteophytes and clear signs of osteoarthritis were mainly seen in DIP joints. Signs of osteoarthritis according to Kellgren-Lawrence were more prevalent than 10 years before in most joints. In lateral radiographs, base osteophytes were not significantly more prevalent than 10 years before in most of the joints. The percentage of climbers who had osteophytes in any DIP (PIP) joint increased from 93.5% (67.7%) at baseline to 100% (74.2%) at the 10-year follow-up. The percentage of climbers who had clear signs of osteoarthritis according to Kellgren-Lawrence in any DIP (PIP) joint increased from 12.9% (9.7%) at baseline to 74.2% (64.5%) at 10-year follow-up. Only a few such degenerative changes were found in age-matched controls.

Conclusion: An accumulation of repetitive climbing-related stress to the fingers of elite sport climbers over the career may induce lifelong mechano-adaptation of the cortical bone thickness of all phalanges. At the 10-year follow-up, a further significant increase in radiographic signs of osteoarthritic changes was observed.

Inconsistencies and Imprecision in the Nomenclature Used to Describe Primary Periphyseal Stress Injuries: Towards a Better Understanding

Stress injuries involving the epiphyseal-physeal-metaphyseal complex affecting the extremities of child and adolescent athletes were first described in the early 1950s. Initially observed in Little League baseball players, these injuries are now known to affect skeletally immature athletes in a variety of sports that involve high-impact repetitive overuse activities. Collectively known as primary periphyseal stress injuries, they may affect the long bones around the shoulder, elbow, wrist, hand, hip, knee, ankle, and foot of young athletes. These injuries respond well to timely treatment and relative rest, while non-compliance with non-operative treatment can produce skeletal growth disruption and resultant limb deformity. A major concern raised from the existing literature on primary periphyseal stress injuries is the long history of inconsistent and imprecise terminology used to describe these injuries. A variety of terms have been used to describe primary periphyseal stress injuries, including those which potentially misinform regarding who may be affected by these injuries and the true nature and pathophysiologic mechanisms involved. These imprecisions and inconsistencies arise, at least in part, from a misunderstanding or incomplete understanding of the nature and mechanism of primary periphyseal stress injuries. In this article, we examine the inconsistent and imprecise nomenclature historically used to describe primary periphyseal stress injuries. We also offer a novel framework for understanding the pathophysiologic mechanisms behind these injuries, and provide suggestions for more standard use of terminology and further research moving forward.

Long term evolution of soft tissue response in the fingers of high-level sport climbers: A cross-sectional 10 Year follow-up study

BACKGROUND

Sport climbing induces physiological changes in the body of high-level climbers. In 2012, our study group demonstrated adaptions of elite climbers' soft tissues with thicker A2/A4-pulleys, flexor tendons and palmar plates compared to non-climbers.

OBJECTIVES

To assess these adaptations over time we examined all 31 (follow up 100%) climbers that participated in that baseline study again using ultrasonography after a follow-up of 10 years.

MAIN FINDINGS

(1) In climbers, a significant increase in A2 and A4-pulley and flexor tendon thickness over the last 10 years was observed (p < 0.001), while PIP&DIP palmar plate thickness remained unchanged (p > 0.05); (2) at 10-years follow-up, all soft tissue thickness parameters (incl. palmar plates) were still significantly larger in climbers than in age-matched controls (p < 0.05); (3) as for the association with anthropometrics and climbing performance/experience, a significant association of the current climber's soft tissue thickness could only be found between palmar plate and reached climbing level(p = 0.032) as well as climber's body weight(p = 0.004).

CONCLUSION

An accumulation of repetitive climbing-related stress to the fingers of elite sport climbers over the career induces mechano-adaptation of the A2/A4-pulleys, flexor tendons and palmar plates. At later stages, there is a further significant increase in flexor tendon and pulley thickness, but not for palmar plate thickness.

Primary Periphyseal Stress Injuries in Young Athletes: A Systematic Review

BACKGROUND

Overuse injuries are common in sporting children and adolescents. These injuries are a particular concern when they involve the epiphyseal-physeal-metaphyseal (EPM) complex given their potential to disturb skeletal growth. Specifically, the limits of mechanical tolerance of the EPM complex to repetitive stress may be exceeded by the intense and continuous training characteristic of many youth sports today.

OBJECTIVE

This article describes the present status of knowledge on the occurrence and outcome of primary periphyseal stress injuries (PPSIs) affecting the EPM complex in the extremities of children and adolescents involved in youth sports.

METHODS

A comprehensive review of the sports medicine literature was conducted to determine the nature and extent of PPSIs affecting the EPM complex of the extremities among youth sports participants and the potential for consequent skeletal growth disturbance and resultant limb deformity associated with these injuries.

RESULTS

Our initial search uncovered 128 original published scientific articles reporting relevant data on PPSIs. There were 101 case reports/series, 19 cross-sectional, 1 case-control, and 7 cohort studies with relevant data. The case reports/series studies reported 448 patients with PPSIs involving the extremities. Children and adolescents representing a variety of high impact repetitive youth sports activities-including baseball, badminton, climbing, cricket, dance, gymnastics, rugby, soccer, swimming, tennis, and volleyball-may sustain PPSIs involving the shoulder, elbow, hand and wrist, knee, and ankle and foot. Although incidence data from prospective cohort studies are lacking, data arising from cross-sectional studies suggest that PPSIs may be common in select groups of youth athletes-including the shoulder in baseball players (0-36.6%), wrist in gymnasts (10-83%) and platform divers (52.6%), and fingers in rock climbers (5-58%). Notably, not all stress-related skeletal changes detected on imaging were symptomatic in these studies. When diagnosed and treated with an appropriate period of rest and rehabilitation, most patients studied were able to return to their sport activities. However, our data also show that 57/448 PPSIs (12.7%) produced growth disturbance, and that 28/448 patients (6.2%) underwent surgery for their injuries. Absence of treatment, delayed presentation and diagnosis, and non-compliance with a rest regimen were common in cases that produced growth disturbance.

CONCLUSIONS

PPSIs may affect the extremities of children and adolescents engaged in a variety of youth sports, especially at advanced levels of training and competition. Most skeletally immature patients with PPSIs respond well to timely treatment; however, in extreme cases, PPSIs can progress to produce skeletal growth disruption which may necessitate surgical intervention. Clearly, establishing the early diagnosis of PPSIs and providing timely treatment of these injuries are needed to ensure the skeletal health of youth sports participants. Rigorous prospective longitudinal epidemiological and imaging studies designed to provide incidence rates of PPSIs and to determine the effect of PPSIs on long-term skeletal health are also necessary.

The Association of Finger Growth Plate Injury History and Speed Climbing in Youth Competition Climbers

INTRODUCTION

Finger growth plate injuries are the most common injury among youth climbers, and the association between these injuries and speed climbing, a mandatory discipline in the 2021 Olympics, has not been examined previously. Our primary purpose was to examine the demographic and training characteristics of adolescent competition climbers who reported a history of a finger growth plate injury compared to those who did not report a history of a finger growth plate injury. Our secondary purpose was to determine whether training characteristics differed between adolescent competition climbers who did and did not report speed climbing.

METHODS

Our study was a cross-sectional study design. We surveyed adolescent climbers who competed in the 2017 USA Climbing Sport and Speed Youth National Championships. Questions assessed climbing injury history and current rock-climbing training characteristics.

RESULTS

Two-hundred sixty-seven adolescent competition climbers, 14±3 (9-18) y of age (mean±SD with range), completed the survey. Those with a history of a finger growth plate injury reported greater approximate time spent speed climbing throughout the year (β=1.28, 95% CI 0.11-2.46, P=0.032) and training regularly on the International Federation of Sport Climbing speed wall (adjusted odds ratio=3.95, 95% CI 1.14-13.7, P=0.031).

CONCLUSIONS

Training regularly at practices on the speed wall was associated with a self-reported history of finger growth plate injuries among elite youth competition climbers. Speed climbing should be limited, especially during periods of rapid growth.

Are Adolescent Climbers Aware of the Most Common Youth Climbing Injury and Safe Training Practices?

Finger growth plate injuries are the most common youth climbing injuries. The purpose of our study was to understand youth awareness of the most common youth climbing injury and safe training practices. We surveyed climbers, ages eight to 18 years old, at the 2017 USA Climbing Sport and Speed Youth National Championships. A total of 267 climbers completed the survey (mean age = 14 ± 2.7 years; 52% male). The A2 pulley injury was reported as the most common youth climbing injury by the largest portion of participants, 36%. The second most commonly identified injury was at the growth plate of the finger, 15% of participants, which was reported as significantly less than the A2 pulley injury, p < 0.001. Six percent of climbers reported the correct safe age to start double dyno campus board training. Roughly 18% of athletes identified growth plate injuries exclusively as a stress fracture, whereas 29.2% of those climbers self-reported as informed about finger growth plate injuries, but only 7.4% of climbers who self-reported as uninformed answered this question correctly. Misperceptions about skeletally-immature climbing injuries are prevalent amongst youth climbers. Education on the prevalence of finger growth plate injuries and the scarcity of A2 pulley injuries in youth climbers can increase diagnostic accuracy, improve care, and reduce long-term complications.

Accuracy in Screw Selection in a Cadaveric, Small-Bone Fracture Model

PURPOSE

Using a cadaveric model simulating clinical situations experienced during open reduction and internal fixation of proximal phalangeal fractures, the aim of this study was to evaluate the relationship between level of training and the rates of short, long, and ideal screw length selection based on depth gauge use without fluoroscopy assistance.

METHODS

A dorsal approach to the proximal phalanx was performed on the index, middle, and ring fingers of 4 cadaveric specimens, and 3 drill holes were placed in each phalanx. Volunteers at different levels of training then measured the drill holes with a depth gauge and selected appropriate screw sizes. The rates of short, long, and ideal screw selection were compared between groups based on level of training. Ideal screws were defined as a screw that reached the volar cortex but did not protrude more than 1 mm beyond it.

RESULTS

Eighteen participants including 3 hand fellowship-trained attending physicians participated for a total of 648 selected screws. The overall rate of ideal screw selection was lower than expected at 49.2%. There was not a statistically significant relationship between rate of ideal screw selection and higher levels of training. Attending surgeons were less likely to place short screws and screws protruding 2 mm or more beyond the volar cortex CONCLUSIONS: Overall, the rate of ideal screw selection was lower than expected. The most experienced surgeons were less likely to place short and excessively long screws.

CLINICAL RELEVANCE

Based on the low rate of ideal screws, the authors recommend against overreliance on depth gauging alone when placing screws during surgery. The low-rate ideal screw length selection highlights the potential for future research and development of more accurate technologies to be used in screw selection.

Long-Term Radiographic Adaptations to Stress of High-Level and Recreational Rock Climbing in Former Adolescent Athletes: An 11-Year Prospective Longitudinal Study

BACKGROUND

In the past few years, competition climbing has grown in popularity, and younger people are being drawn to the sport.

PURPOSE

While radiographic changes in long-term climbers are known, there are little data available on adolescent climbers. The question arises as to whether climbing at high levels at a young age leads to radiographic changes and possibly an early onset of osteoarthritis of the finger joints.

STUDY DESIGN

Cohort study; Level of evidence, 2.

METHODS

A total of 19 members of the German Junior National Team (GJNT group) and 18 recreational climbers (RC group) were examined clinically and radiographically in 1999. In 2011, these climbers were re-examined (mean follow-up, 11.3 ± 1.2 years). Radiographs were evaluated using a standard protocol, searching for physiological adaptations such as cortical thickness of the middle phalanx and an increased adopted Barnett-Nordin index, as well as for early-onset osteoarthritic changes of the hand. In contrast to the Kellgren-Lawrence scale, subchondral sclerosis was added to the group of physiological, adaptive stress reactions and was not defined as osteoarthritis. Osteoarthritis was defined by a Kellgren-Lawrence grade ≥2.

RESULTS

Overall, 15 of 19 (follow-up rate, 78.9%) climbers in the GJNT group and 13 of 18 in the RC group (follow-up rate, 72.2%), with a mean age of 26.8 years, were examined at the 11-year follow-up. Five climbers (33%) in the GJNT group presented with a decreased range of motion for the finger joints, in contrast to only 1 climber (8%) in the RC group. Radiographic stress reactions of the hand were found in 80% of the GJNT group and 46% of the RC group, including cortical hypertrophy (GJNT: 73%; RC: 23%), subchondral sclerosis (GJNT: 80%; RC: 31%), a broadened proximal interphalangeal joint base (GJNT: 67%; RC: 38%), and a broadened distal interphalangeal joint base (GJNT: 53%; RC: 31%). Training intensity in 1999 and body weight in 1999 were significant for the development of radiographic stress reactions in 2011 (P < .05 for both). Signs of early-stage osteoarthritis were seen in 6 climbers: 4 (27%) in the GJNT group and 2 (15%) in the RC group. Significant statistical influences for the development of early-onset osteoarthritis were found for overall total training years (P = .024), use of campus board training in 1999 (P = .033), and climbing level (P = .030).

CONCLUSION

One-quarter of climbers who performed at a high level in their youth showed a "mild" form of osteoarthritis (Kellgren-Lawrence grade 2). In analyzing the training regimens of our climbers for longer than 10 years, we conclude that intensive finger training (eg, campus board training) can lead to early-onset osteoarthritis of the hand. We also demonstrate that a high Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA) climbing level correlates with the risk for early-onset osteoarthritis of the hand and therefore must be seen as a risk factor for developing early-onset osteoarthritis of the finger joints.

Feasibility of a New Pulley Repair: A Cadaver Study

PURPOSE

In this study, the feasibility of a new pulley reconstruction in which the tendon graft is pulled through a tunnel in the proximal phalanx, was evaluated using a cadaver model, with particular attention paid to the weakening of the bone structure by the drill hole.

METHODS

Nine fingers from 6 cadaver hands with intact pulley systems were compared with 9 fingers from 6 cadaver hands with missing A2 to A4 pulleys but that included a repair using the new surgical technique. Each finger was fixed to an isokinetic loading device. The forces in the flexor tendons were recorded in each finger using a force transducer.

RESULTS

The forces recorded in the flexor tendons of the control group were significantly higher than in the reconstructed fingers. The most common event in the reconstructed fingers was graft failure. A fracture of the bone due to the drill hole was not observed.

CONCLUSIONS

The new pulley reconstruction could represent an alternative to existing reconstructive techniques. The cause for the higher forces recorded in the control group could be attributed to sutures used in the operated fingers.

CLINICAL RELEVANCE

The new pulley reconstruction method may enable reduced extensor tendon irritation because it avoids contact with the extensor hood and could possibly prohibit cortical bone loss, a serious side effect in the "one and one-half loop" technique.

Ultrasound evaluation of stress injuries and physiological adaptations in the fingers of adolescent competitive rock climbers

BACKGROUND

The impact of high-intensity, repetitive training on the fingers of adolescent climbers is relatively unknown.

OBJECTIVE

To evaluate this effect by ultrasound (US) and to confirm some findings by magnetic resonance imaging (MRI).

MATERIALS AND METHODS

The US study was performed in 20 adolescent rock climbers (ages 10-17 years) and 6 non-climbing controls (ages 11-15 years). US was used to examine the third digit of the right hand for differences in thickness of soft tissue, flexor and extensor tendon, volar plate and bony and growth plate adaptations. In four climbers with finger deformity or pain, 3-T MR images were compared with US findings. Number of hours/week and years of climbing were used to group climbers in three levels (3=most intense training). Mann-Whitney test was used for statistical analysis.

RESULTS

Compared with non-climbing controls, climbers demonstrated significantly thicker flexor tendons, volar plates and soft tissues. Joint effusions were found in 13/19 (68%) climbers. Significant phalangeal malalignment was seen in 10/19 (53%) climbers. Growth plate deformities were identified in three level 3 climbers. US findings correlated with MRI for effusions, phalangeal growth plate injury, malalignment and adaptive changes. MRI additional showed capsule rupture (n=1), stress fracture (n=1) and phalangeal physeal stress injury (n=1).

CONCLUSION

Competitive rock climbing results in physiological adaptations in the fingers, an example being significant soft-tissue hypertrophy of the flexor. US demonstrated several non-physiological changes in response to repetitive stress in half of the climbers. MRI showed additional stress injuries to the growth plate, joints and bone.

Feet injuries in rock climbers

While injuries of the upper extremity are widely discussed in rock climbers, reports about the lower extremity are rare. Nevertheless almost 50 percent of acute injuries involve the leg and feet. Acute injuries are either caused by ground falls or rock hit trauma during a fall. Most frequently strains, contusions and fractures of the calcaneus and talus. More rare injuries, as e.g., osteochondral lesions of the talus demand a highly specialized care and case presentations with combined iliac crest graft and matrix associated autologous chondrocyte transplantation are given in this review. The chronic use of tight climbing shoes leads to overstrain injuries also. As the tight fit of the shoes changes the biomechanics of the foot an increased stress load is applied to the fore-foot. Thus chronic conditions as subungual hematoma, callosity and pain resolve. Also a high incidence of hallux valgus and hallux rigidus is described.

Hand osteoarthritis--a heterogeneous disorder

Hand osteoarthritis (OA) is a prevalent disorder. Hand OA is not one single disease, but a heterogeneous group of disorders. Radiographic signs of hand OA, such as osteophytes or joint space narrowing, can be found in up to 81% of the elderly population. Several hand OA subsets--such as nodal interphalangeal OA, thumb base OA and erosive OA--can be discriminated. Furthermore, the experience of symptoms and the course of the disease differ between patients. Studies that used well-defined study populations with longitudinal follow-up have shown that similarities and differences can be observed in the pathogenesis, epidemiology and risk factors of the various hand OA subsets. Erosive OA in particular, characterized by erosive lesions on radiographical images, has a higher clinical burden and worse outcome than nonerosive hand OA. Imaging modalities (such as ultrasonography) have increased our knowledge of the role of inflammation of the disease. Our understanding of the heterogeneous nature of hand OA can eventually lead to increased knowledge of the pathogenesis of, and ultimately new treatment modalities for, this complex disease.

Self-reported ability assessment in rock climbing

Level of ability within rock climbing is generally expressed in terms of a "best ascent", rated using various grading systems within the sport. The most common method of obtaining this information is via self-report. The aim of this study was to examine the validity of self-reported climbing grades. Twenty-nine competitive rock climbers (17 males, 12 females) were first asked to report their current (defined as within the last 12 months) best on-sight lead ascent grade (Aus/NZ). The participants then climbed a specifically designed indoor route, under on-sight conditions (one attempt, no route practice or preview), to obtain an assessed grade. The route increased in difficulty, and was such that the distance achieved by the climber corresponded to a particular grade. The mean (±standard deviation) self-reported and assessed grade was 22.6 ± 3.4 and 22.0 ± 3.0 (Aus/NZ) respectively. Despite slight over- and underestimations in males and females respectively, there was no statistically significant difference between self-reported and assessed on-sight climbing grades. The results of this study suggest that self-reported climbing grades provide a valid and accurate reflection of climbing ability.

Evaluation of injury and fatality risk in rock and ice climbing

Rock and ice climbing are widely considered to be 'high-risk' sporting activities that are associated with a high incidence of severe injury and even death, compared with more mainstream sports. However, objective scientific data to support this perception are questionable. Accordingly, >400 sport-specific injury studies were analysed and compared by quantifying the injury incidence and objectively grading the injury severity (using the National Advisory Committee for Aeronautics score) per 1000 hours of sporting participation. Fatalities were also analysed. The analysis revealed that fatalities occurred in all sports, but it was not always clear whether the sport itself or pre-existing health conditions contributed or caused the deaths. Bouldering (ropeless climbing to low heights), sport climbing (mostly bolt protected lead climbing with little objective danger) and indoor climbing (climbing indoors on artificial rock structures), showed a small injury rate, minor injury severity and few fatalities. As more objective/external dangers exist for alpine and ice climbing, the injury rate, injury severity and fatality were all higher. Overall, climbing sports had a lower injury incidence and severity score than many popular sports, including basketball, sailing or soccer; indoor climbing ranked the lowest in terms of injuries of all sports assessed. Nevertheless, a fatality risk remains, especially in alpine and ice climbing. In the absence of a standard definition for a 'high-risk' sport, categorizing climbing as a high-risk sport was found to be either subjective or dependent on the definition used. In conclusion, this analysis showed that retrospective data on sport-specific injuries and fatalities are not reported in a standardized manner. To improve preventative injury measures for climbing sports, it is recommended that a standardized, robust and comprehensive sport-specific scoring model should be developed to report and fully evaluate the injury risk, severity of injuries and fatality risk in climbing sports.

Bilateral atypical muscles causing acute bilateral carpal tunnel syndrome in recreational climber

The occurrence of anomalous muscles in the hand is rare, and therefore the clinician frequently does not account for their existence when reaching the diagnosis and concluding the cause of carpal tunnel syndrome. This case report describes the highly unusual case of the occurrence of bilateral flexor digitorum superficialis muscles in a recreational climber who developed CTS following his intensive training schedule.

The influence of concentric and eccentric loading on the finger pulley system

In this study we investigated the influence of the loading condition (concentric vs. eccentric loading) on the pulley system of the finger. For this purpose 39 cadaver finger (14 hands, 10 donors) were fixed into an isokinetic loading device. The forces in the flexor tendons and at the fingertip were recorded. In the concentric loading condition A2 and A4 ruptures as well as alternative events such as fracture of a phalanx or avulsion of the flexor tendons were almost equally distributed, whereas the A2 pulley rupture was the most common event (59%) in the eccentric loading condition and alternative events were rare (23.5%). The forces in the deep flexor tendon, the fingertip and in the pulleys were significantly lower in the eccentric loading condition. As the ruptures occurred at lower loads in the eccentric than in the concentric loading condition it can be concluded that friction may be an advantage for climbers, supporting the holding force of their flexor muscles but may also increase the susceptibility to injury.

Physiological responses to rock climbing in young climbers

Key questions regarding the training and physiological qualities required to produce an elite rock climber remain inadequately defined. Little research has been done on young climbers. The aim of this paper was to review literature on climbing alongside relevant literature characterising physiological adaptations in young athletes. Evidence-based recommendations were sought to inform the training of young climbers. Of 200 studies on climbing, 50 were selected as being appropriate to this review, and were interpreted alongside physiological studies highlighting specific common development growth variables in young climbers. Based on injury data, climbers younger than 16 years should not participate in international bouldering competitions and intensive finger strength training is not recommended. The majority of climbing foot injuries result from wearing too small or unnaturally shaped climbing shoes. Isometric and explosive strength improvements are strongly associated with the latter stages of sexual maturation and specific ontogenetic development, while improvement in motor abilities declines. Somatotyping that might identify common physical attributes in elite climbers of any age is incomplete. Accomplished adolescent climbers can now climb identical grades and compete against elite adult climbers aged up to and >40 years. High-intensity sports training requiring leanness in a youngster can result in altered and delayed pubertal and skeletal development, metabolic and neuroendocrine aberrations and trigger eating disorders. This should be sensitively and regularly monitored. Training should reflect efficacious exercises for a given sex and biological age.

Factors influencing osteological changes in the hands and fingers of rock climbers

This study examines the osteological changes in the hands and fingers of rock climbers that result from intense, long-term mechanical stress placed on these bones. Specifically, it examines whether rock climbing leads to metacarpal and phalange modelling in the form of increased cortical thickness as well as joint changes associated with osteoarthritis. This study also attempts to identify specific climbing-related factors that may influence these changes, including climbing intensity and frequency of different styles of climbing. Radiographs of both hands were taken for each participant and were scored for radiographic signs of osteoarthritis using an atlas method. Total width and medullary width were measured directly on radiographs using digital calipers and used to calculate cross-sectional area and second moment of area based on a ring model. We compared 27 recreational rock climbers and 35 non-climbers for four measures of bone strength and dimensions (cross-sectional area, second moment of area, total width and medullary width) and osteoarthritis. A chi-squared test for independence was used to compare climber and non-climber osteoarthritis scores. For each measure of bone strength climbers and non-climbers were compared using a manova test. Significant manova tests were followed by principal components analysis (PCA) and individual anova tests performed on principal components with eigenvalues greater than one. A second PCA was performed on the climber subsample and the first principal component was then used as the dependent variable in linear regression variable selection procedures to determine which climbing-related variables affect bone thickness. The results suggest that climbers are not at an increased risk of developing osteoarthritis compared with non-climbers. Climbers, however, do have greater cross-sectional area as well as second moment of area. Greater total width, but not meduallary width, indicates that additional bone is deposited subperiosteally. The strength of the finger and hand bones are correlated with styles of climbing that emphasize athletic difficulty. Significant predictors include the highest levels achieved in bouldering and sport climbing.

Radiographic adaptations to the stress of high-level rock climbing in junior athletes: a 5-year longitudinal study of the German Junior National Team and a group of recreational climbers

BACKGROUND

Radiographic adaptations and changes in adult climbers are a well-known fact, but few data are available for young climbers.

HYPOTHESIS

Radiographic adaptations have been shown for highly active young climbers. The question arises whether these adaptations may lead to an early onset of osteoarthrosis in the fingers.

STUDY DESIGN

Cohort study; Level of evidence, 2.

METHODS

Ten members of the German Junior National Team (GJNT; 21.0 +/- 1.6 years) and 10 recreational climbers (RC; 19.9 +/- 1.9 years) were examined using a standard questionnaire and radiographs of the hand. For comparison, radiographs of 12 young nonclimbers (control group [CG]) were evaluated.

RESULTS

The climbing level of GJNT increased significantly during the 5-year evaluation period (P < .01) and was significantly higher than that of the RC (1999: P < .01, 2004: P < .01). There was no increase in finger contractures or finger joint capsular width during the 5 years. Stress reactions were found in 8 of 10 of GJNT (1999 and 2004) and increased in RC from 2 of 10 (1999) to 3 of 10 (2004). No osteoarthrotic changes were found in 2004. There was no significant difference for the Barnett-Nordin Index between GJNT, RC, and CG. Years of climbing (P < .01), participation in climbing competitions (P < .01), hours of training per week (P < .01), number of training units per week (P < .05), and climbing level (2004) (P < .01) were significant factors for development of radiographic stress reaction in all athletes (GJNT and RC).

CONCLUSION

Intensive training and climbing leads to adaptive reactions such as cortical hypertrophy and broadened joint bases in the fingers. Nevertheless, osteoarthrotic changes are rare in young climbers. A longer follow-up is necessary to evaluate whether these adaptive stress reactions may lead to an early onset of osteoarthritis.

Biomechanical model for the determination of the forces acting on the finger pulley system

A mathematical model proposed by Hume et al., 1991. Journal of Hand Surgery-American Volume 16, 722-730 for the determination of the forces acting on the A2 and A4 pulley was used. The parameters necessary for this determination include the angle of flexion, the positioning of the pulley with respect to the centre of rotation in the proximal interphalangeal joint (PIP), the relative mismatch between bone and tendon width at the location of the respective pulleys as well as the tendon height at this position. This model was further developed to include the stiffness of the respective pulley, as well as the fact, that there are two flexor tendons of which only one passes through both pulleys. Each parameter was then evaluated using a sensitivity analysis proposed by Fasham et al., 1990. Journal of Marine Research 48, 591-639 in order to determine their relative importance for the outcome of the model. The most important parameter proofed to be the positioning of the pulley with respect to the centre of rotation in the PIP joint. This observation enabled us to give the best possible placement for a pulley graft after pulley rupture.

Strength measurement and clinical outcome after pulley ruptures in climbers

PURPOSE

Ruptures of the finger flexor pulleys are the most frequent injuries in rock climbers. Whereas multiple pulley injuries demand a surgical reconstruction, single ruptures are mainly treated conservatively. Nevertheless, the question of the clinical outcome or a persisting finger strength deficit after conservative therapy arises.

METHODS

Twenty-one rock climbers (age 34 +/- 9 yr) with a grade 2-4 pulley injury were reevaluated 3.46 (range: 0.25-18) yr after injury. The clinical evaluation followed a standard questionnaire in combination with an ultrasound examination in extension and forced flexion. In order to determine the finger strengths, the subjects hung with the respective finger in various postures on a ledge attached above a door frame, while standing on a force platform, which measured the relative release.

RESULTS

The 21 subjects had old (3.46 yr, range: 0.25-18) pulley injuries in 27 fingers (10 A2, 1 A3, 11 A4, 3 A2/3, 2 A3/4). The clinical outcome was excellent (Buck-Gramcko score of 3) in all cases; the subjects regained their climbing level within a year. There was no difference between the initial ultrasound examination and the follow-up during the study. For 17 finger pairs, data for the relative strength of the injured and the respective healthy finger could be gathered. The finger strength was not significantly different for the injured and the healthy finger in either the hanging or the crimping finger position.

CONCLUSIONS

Nonsurgical treatment of single pulley ruptures is recommended. The clinical outcome was good to excellent, and no long-term strength deficit for the injured finger could be observed.