Vehicle effects on human stratum corneum absorption and skin penetration

Penetration pathways, influencing factors and predictive models for dermal absorption of exobiotic molecules: A critical review

This review provides a comprehensive summary of the skin penetration pathways of xenobiotics, including metals, organic pollutants, and nanoparticles (NPs), with a particular focus on the methodologies employed to elucidate these penetration routes. The impacts of the physicochemical properties of exogenous substances and the properties of solvent carriers on the penetration efficiencies were discussed. Furthermore, the review outlines the steady-state and transient models for predicting the skin permeability of xenobiotics, emphasizing the models which enable realistic visualization of pharmaco-kinetic phenomena via detailed geometric representations of the skin microstructure, such as stratum corneum (SC) (bricks and mortar) and skin appendages (hair follicles and sebaceous gland units). Limitations of published research, gaps in current knowledge, and recommendations for future research are highlighted, providing insight for a better understanding of the skin penetration behavior of xenobiotics and associated health risks in practical application contexts.

The anti-inflammatory activity of flavonoids and alkaloids from Sophora flavescens alleviates psoriasiform lesions: Prenylation and methoxylation beneficially enhance bioactivity and skin targeting

The herb Sophora flavescens displays anti-inflammatory activity and can provide a source of antipsoriatic medications. We aimed to evaluate whether S. flavescens extracts and compounds can relieve psoriasiform inflammation. The ability of flavonoids (maackiain, sophoraflavanone G, leachianone A) and alkaloids (matrine, oxymatrine) isolated from S. flavescens to inhibit production of cytokine/chemokines was examined in keratinocytes and macrophages. Physicochemical properties and skin absorption were determined by in silico molecular modeling and the in vitro permeation test (IVPT) to establish the structure-permeation relationship (SPR). The ethyl acetate extract exhibited higher inhibition of interleukin (IL)-6, IL-8, and CXCL1 production in tumor necrosis factor-α-stimulated keratinocytes compared to the ethanol and water extracts. The flavonoids demonstrated higher cytokine/chemokine inhibition than alkaloids, with the prenylated flavanones (sophoraflavanone G, leachianone A) led to the highest suppression. Flavonoids exerted anti-inflammatory effects via the extracellular signal-regulated kinase, p38, activator protein-1, and nuclear factor-κB signaling pathways. In the IVPT, prenylation of the flavanone skeleton significantly promoted skin absorption from 0.01 to 0.22 nmol/mg (sophoraflavanone G vs. eriodictyol). Further methoxylation of a prenylated flavanone (leachianone A) elevated skin absorption to 2.65 nmol/mg. Topical leachianone A reduced the epidermal thickness in IMQ-treated mice by 47%, and inhibited cutaneous scaling and cytokine/chemokine overexpression at comparable levels to a commercial betamethasone product. Thus, prenylation and methoxylation of S. flavescens flavanones may enable the design of novel antipsoriatic agents.

An update of skin permeability data based on a systematic review of recent research

The cutaneous absorption parameters of xenobiotics are crucial for the development of drugs and cosmetics, as well as for assessing environmental and occupational chemical risks. Despite the great variability in the design of experimental conditions due to uncertain international guidelines, datasets like HuskinDB have been created to report skin absorption endpoints. This review updates available skin permeability data by rigorously compiling research published between 2012 and 2021. Inclusion and exclusion criteria have been selected to build the most harmonized and reusable dataset possible. The Generative Topographic Mapping method was applied to the present dataset and compared to HuskinDB to monitor the progress in skin permeability research and locate chemotypes of particular concern. The open-source dataset (SkinPiX) includes steady-state flux, maximum flux, lag time and permeability coefficient results for the substances tested, as well as relevant information on experimental parameters that can impact the data. It can be used to extract subsets of data for comparisons and to build predictive models.

Skin delivery of synthetic benzoyl pterostilbenes suppresses atopic dermatitis-like inflammation through the inhibition of keratinocyte and macrophage activation

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is one of the most common skin autoimmune diseases needing continuous anti-inflammatory management. Pterostilbene is reported to exhibit anti-inflammatory activity with higher bioavailability and stability than its parent compound, resveratrol. In this study, a series of synthetic pterostilbene analogs were designed by the hybridization of pterostilbene with chalcones or benzoyl chloride. Seventeen analogs derived from pterostilbene were synthesized with differences in the positions of hydroxyl, methoxyl, or fluoro moieties. These compounds were screened by the inhibitory effect on the overexpressed Th2-associated cytokines/chemokines in the activated human keratinocytes (HaCaT). The anti-IL-5 and anti-CCL5 activity of these compounds led to the identification of three effective compounds: 3a ((E)- 4-(3,5-dimethoxystyryl)phenyl benzoate), 3d ((E)- 4-(3,5-dimethoxystyryl)phenyl 2-methoxybenzoate), and 3g ((E)- 4-(3,5-dimethoxystyryl)phenyl 2-fluorobenzoate). These benzoyl pterostilbenes also significantly decreased Th1/Th17-associated proinflammatory mediators in the activated macrophages (differentiated THP-1). The result showed that the conditioned medium of benzoyl pterostilbene-treated macrophages reduced the phosphorylated STAT3 in the keratinocytes, indicating the blockade of crosstalk between resident and immune cells. Compounds 3d and 3g generally showed greater skin absorption than 3a. The flux of 3g across barrier-defective skins mimicking the AD skin was 3-fold higher than that of across intact skin. The dinitrochlorobenzene (DNCB)-induced AD mouse model manifested that topical delivery with 3g improved the pathological signs through inhibiting cytokines/chemokines (IL-5, TNF-α, CCL17, and CCL22) and macrophage recruitment. The epidermal thickness was reduced from 76 to 55 µm after topical 3g delivery. The therapeutic activity of 3g was comparable to that of tacrolimus (TAC) used as a positive control. The benzoyl pterostilbenes attenuated the inflammation via the MAPK and c-Jun signaling. Furthermore, this study provided experimental evidence of benzoyl pterostilbene analogs for therapeutic potential on AD.

The elucidation of structure-activity and structure-permeation relationships for the cutaneous delivery of phytosterols to attenuate psoriasiform inflammation

Phytosterols have been reported to exert anti-inflammatory activity. This study aimed to investigate the capacity of campesterol, β-sitosterol, and stigmasterol on the mitigation of psoriasiform inflammation. We also tried to establish structure-activity and structure-permeation relationships for these plant sterols. To support this study, we first approached the in silico data of the physicochemical properties and the molecular docking of phytosterols with stratum corneum (SC) lipids. The anti-inflammatory activity of the phytosterols was explored in the activated keratinocytes and macrophages. Using the activated keratinocyte model, a significant inhibition of IL-6 and CXCL8 overexpression by phytosterols was detected. A comparable inhibition level was found for the three phytosterols tested. The macrophage-based study showed that the anti-IL-6 and anti-CXCL8 activities of campesterol were greater than those of the other compounds, which indicated that a phytosterol structure without a double bond on C₂₂ and with methyl moiety on C₂₄ was more effective. The conditioned medium of phytosterol-treated macrophages decreased STAT3 phosphorylation in the keratinocytes, suggesting the inhibition of keratinocyte hyperproliferation. β-sitosterol was the penetrant with the highest pig skin absorption (0.33 nmol/mg), followed by campesterol (0.21 nmol/mg) and stigmasterol (0.16 nmol/mg). The therapeutic index (TI) is a parameter measured by multiplying the cytokine/chemokine suppression percentage with skin absorption for anticipating the anti-inflammatory activity after topical delivery. β-sitosterol is a potential candidate for treating psoriatic inflammation due to having the greatest TI value. In this study, β-sitosterol attenuated epidermal hyperplasia and immune cell infiltration in the psoriasis-like mouse model. The psoriasiform epidermis thickness could be reduced from 92.4 to 63.8 μm by the topical use of β-sitosterol, with a downregulation of IL-6, TNF-α, and CXCL1. The skin tolerance study manifested that the reference drug betamethasone but not β-sitosterol could generate barrier dysfunction. β-sitosterol possessed anti-inflammatory activity and facile skin transport, showing the potential for development as an anti-psoriatic agent.

New Ferulic Acid and Amino Acid Derivatives with Increased Cosmeceutical and Pharmaceutical Potential

Ferulic acid (FA) has been widely used in the pharmaceutical and cosmetics industry due to its, inter alia, antioxidant, antiaging and anti-inflammatory effects This compound added to cosmetic preparations can protect skin because of its photoprotective activity. However, the usefulness of FA as a therapeutic agent is limited due to its low solubility and bioavailability. The paper presents the synthesis, identification, and physicochemical properties of new FA derivatives with propyl esters of three amino acids, glycine (GPr[FA]), L-leucine (LPr[FA]), and L-proline (PPr[FA]). The NMR and FTIR spectroscopy, DSC, and TG analysis were used as analytical methods. Moreover, water solubility of the new conjugates was compared with the parent acid. Both ferulic acid and its conjugates were introduced into hydrogel and emulsion, and the resulting formulations were evaluated for stability. Additionally, in vitro penetration of all studied compounds from both formulations and for comparative purposes using Franz diffusion cells was evaluated from the solution in 70% (v/v) ethanol. Finally, cytotoxicity against murine fibroblasts L929 was tested. All of the analyzed compounds permeated pig skin and accumulated in it. LPr[FA] and PPr[FA] were characterized by much better permeability compared to the parent ferulic acid. Additionally, it was shown that all the analyzed derivatives are characterized by high antioxidant activity and lack of cytotoxicity. Therefore, they can be considered as an interesting alternative to be applied in dermatologic and cosmetic preparations.

Occupational exposure assessment with solid substances: choosing a vehicle for in vitro percutaneous absorption experiments

Percutaneous occupational exposure to industrial toxicants can be assessed in vitro on excised human or animal skins. Numerous factors can significantly influence skin permeation of chemicals and the flux determination. Among them, the vehicle used to solubilize the solid substances is a tricky key step. A "realistic surrogate" that closely matches the exposure scenario is recommended in first intention. When direct transposition of occupational exposure conditions to in vitro experiments is impossible, it is recommended that the vehicle used does not affect the skin barrier (in particular in terms of structural integrity, composition, or enzymatic activity). Indeed, any such effect could alter the percutaneous absorption of substances in a number of ways, as we will see. Potential effects are described for five monophasic vehicles, including the three most frequently used: water, ethanol, acetone; and two that are more rarely used, but are realistic: artificial sebum and artificial sweat. Finally, we discuss a number of criteria to be verified and the associated tests that should be performed when choosing the most appropriate vehicle, keeping in mind that, in the context of occupational exposure, the scientific quality of the percutaneous absorption data provided, and how they are interpreted, may have long-range consequences. From the narrative review presented, we also identify and discuss important factors to consider in future updates of the OECD guidelines for in vitro skin absorption experiments.

The effectiveness of synthetic methoxylated isoflavones in delivering to the skin and alleviating psoriasiform lesions via topical absorption

This study was conducted to appraise the possible potential of synthetic isoflavones (SIFs) on psoriasis treatment. A practical and easy-to-operate approach was employed in synthesizing a series of SIFs, considering that acquiring flavonoids from natural resources is usually expensive, time-consuming, and non-eco-friendly. Seven SIFs derived from daidzein were produced with differences in the location of the hydroxyl groups and degree of methoxylation. The in vitro and in vivo skin absorption of topically applied SIFs was estimated. Further, keratinocytes (HaCaT) were employed as the model to investigate the anti-inflammatory activity of the isoflavones. The lipophilicity was increased from SIF-1 to -7. Noteworthily, there was a parabolic relationship between lipophilicity and skin absorption, with SIF-5 (4',7-dihydroxyisoflavone, daidzein) and SIF-6 (7-hydroxy-3',4'-dimethoxyisoflavone, cladrin) demonstrating the highest retention in pig skin. The methoxylated isoflavone SIF-5 showed the greatest permeation into barrier-deficient skin among the compounds tested, with a 6- and 8-fold increase after lipid and protein removal. The cell-based study exhibited the capability of SIFs to restrain the overexpressed IL-6, IL-8, and CXCL1 in stimulated HaCaT. The therapeutic index (TI) predicted the potential candidates of SIF-5 and SIF-6 for topical application to treat psoriatic inflammation. The imiquimod (IMQ)-driven psoriasiform murine model manifested the inhibition of hyperplasia and immune cell infiltration by topically administered SIF-5 and SIF-6. The epidermal thickness of IMQ-treated skin was decreased from 172 to 40 μm by both isoflavones. This effect was comparable with that of betamethasone, the positive control. The topical treatment of SIF-6 significantly reduced cytokine/chemokine upregulation by IMQ. The methoxylated isoflavone with dramatic anti-inflammatory activity is promising for the development of an antipsoriatic agent.

A systematic comparison of the effect of topically applied anthraquinone aglycones to relieve psoriasiform lesion: The evaluation of percutaneous absorption and anti-inflammatory potency

The anthraquinones derived from rhubarb are reported to have anti-inflammatory activity. The present study aimed to assess the topical application of rhubarb anthraquinone aglycones for psoriasis treatment. The antipsoriatic effect of five anthraquinones, including aloe-emodin, rhein, emodin, physcion, and chrysophanol, was compared to elucidate a structure-permeation relationship. Molecular modeling was employed to determine the physicochemical properties. Both macrophages (differentiated THP-1) and keratinocytes (HaCaT) were used to examine the anti-inflammatory activity in the cell-based study. The in vitro pig skin absorption showed that chrysophanol was the compound with the highest cutaneous accumulation. Topically applied rhein was detected to be largely delivered to the receptor compartment. The absorption of rhein was increased by 5-fold in the barrier-deficient skin as compared to intact skin. By stimulating macrophages with imiquimod (IMQ) to model the inflammation in psoriasis, it was found that the anthraquinones significantly reduced IL-6, IL-23, and TNF. The cytokine inhibition level was comparable for the five compounds. The anthraquinones suppressed cytokines by inhibiting the activation of MAPK and NF-κB signaling. The anthraquinones also downregulated IL-6, IL-8, and IL-24 in the inflammatory keratinocytes stimulated with TNF. Rhein and chrysophanol were comparable to curtail the STAT3 phosphorylation in keratinocytes induced by the conditioned medium of stimulated macrophages. The IMQ-induced psoriasiform mouse model demonstrated the improvement of scaling, erythema, and epidermal hyperplasia by topically applied rhein or chrysophanol. The epidermal acanthosis evoked by IMQ was reduced with rhein and chrysophanol by 3-fold. The histological profiles exhibit that both anthraquinone compounds diminished the number of macrophages and neutrophils in the lesional skin, skin-draining lymph node, and spleen. Rhein and chrysophanol showed multifunctional inhibition, by regulating several targets for alleviating psoriasiform inflammation.

Enhanced permeability and photoprotective potential of optimized p-coumaric acid-phospholipid complex loaded gel against UVA mediated oxidative stress

Photo-oxidative skin damage is mainly caused by the UV-A radiation of the sun. Synthetic sunscreens used to counter this acts mostly on the superficial skin layer and possess serious side effects. P-coumaric acid (PCA) is a UV-A protective plant phenolic having quick diffusion and distribution in superficial skin layers limiting its application as herbal sunscreen. The present study was designed to formulate an optimized phospholipid complex of PCA (PCAPC) through response surface methodology to enhance its skin permeation to deeper skin layers providing protection against photo-oxidative stress. PCAPC was characterized by FT-IR, DTA, PXRD, TEM, zeta potential etc. PCAPC was then incorporated into a gel formulation (PCAPC-GE) to facilitate its transdermal delivery. Physicochemical properties of the gel were assessed by pH, homogeneity, rheology, spreadability etc. In-vitro SPF and UVA-PF of the gel was evaluated and compared with conventional gel (PCA-GE). Ex-vivo skin permeation flux, permeability coefficient, skin deposition and dermatokinetic analysis were carried out to measure the rate and level of skin permeation. This was accompanied by in-vivo evaluation of PCAPC-GE and PCA-GE in the experimental rat model by measuring the various oxidative stress markers such as superoxide dismutase, catalase etc. PCAPC-GE provided high SPF and UVA-PF value compared to PCA-GE. The physicochemical parameters were suitable for transdermal application. PCAPC-GE enhanced the permeation rate of PCA by almost 6 fold compared to PCA-GE. Besides, a significant reduction of UV-A induced oxidative stress biomarkers were observed for PCAPC-GE. Thus, the PCAPC-GE may be an effective alternative of synthetic sunscreens due to its enhanced permeation and protection against UVA-induced oxidative stress.

Enhancement strategies for transdermal drug delivery systems: current trends and applications

Transdermal drug delivery systems have become an intriguing research topic in pharmaceutical technology area and one of the most frequently developed pharmaceutical products in global market. The use of these systems can overcome associated drawbacks of other delivery routes, such as oral and parenteral. The authors will review current trends, and future applications of transdermal technologies, with specific focus on providing a comprehensive understanding of transdermal drug delivery systems and enhancement strategies. This article will initially discuss each transdermal enhancement method used in the development of first-generation transdermal products. These methods include drug/vehicle interactions, vesicles and particles, stratum corneum modification, energy-driven methods and stratum corneum bypassing techniques. Through suitable design and implementation of active stratum corneum bypassing methods, notably microneedle technology, transdermal delivery systems have been shown to deliver both low and high molecular weight drugs. Microneedle technology platforms have proven themselves to be more versatile than other transdermal systems with opportunities for intradermal delivery of drugs/biotherapeutics and therapeutic drug monitoring. These have shown that microneedles have been a prospective strategy for improving transdermal delivery systems.

The Influence of Oily Vehicle Composition and Vehicle-Membrane Interactions on the Diffusion of Model Permeants across Barrier Membranes

In many instances, one or more components of a pharmaceutical or cosmetic formulation is an oil. The aims of this study were two-fold. First, to examine the potential of preferential uptake of one oily vehicle component over another into a model barrier membrane (silicone) from blended vehicles (comprising two from the common excipients isohexadecane (IHD), hexadecane (HD), isopropyl myristate (IPM), oleic acid (OA) and liquid paraffin). Second, to study the effect of membrane-vehicle interactions on the diffusion of model permeants (caffeine (CF), methyl paraben (MP) and butyl paraben (BP)) from blended vehicles. Selective sorption and partition of some oils (especially IHD and IPM) at the expense of other oils (such as OA) was demonstrated to take place. For example, the membrane composition of IHD was enriched compared to a donor solution of IHD-OA: 41%, 63% and 82% IHD, compared to donor solution composition of 25%, 50% and 75% IHD, respectively. Pre-soaking the membrane in IHD, HD or LP, rather than phosphate buffer, enhanced the flux of MP through the membrane by 2.6, 1.7 and 1.3 times, respectively. The preferential sorption of individual oil components from mixtures altered the barrier properties of silicone membrane, and enhanced the permeation of CF, MP and BP, which are typically co-formulated in topical products.

In Vitro Human Skin Penetration, Antioxidant and Antimicrobial Activity of Ethanol-Water Extract of Fireweed (Epilobium angustifolium L.)

Epilobium angustifolium L. is applied as an antiseptic agent in the treatment of skin diseases. However, there is a lack of information on human skin penetration of active ingredients with antioxidative potential. It seems crucial because bacterial infections of skin and subcutaneous tissue are common and partly depend on oxidative stress. Therefore, we evaluated in vitro human skin penetration of fireweed ethanol-water extracts (FEEs) by determining antioxidant activity of these extracts before and after penetration study using 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), 2,2'-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) (ABTS), and Folin-Ciocalteu methods. Microbiological tests of extracts were done. The qualitative and quantitative evaluation was performed using gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) and high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC-UV) methods. The in vitro human skin penetration using the Franz diffusion chamber was assessed. The high antioxidant activity of FEEs was found. Gallic acid (GA), chlorogenic acid (ChA), 3,4-dihydroxybenzoic acid (3,4-DHB), 4-hydroxybenzoic acid (4-HB), and caffeic acid (CA) were identified in the extracts. The antibacterial activities were found against Serratia lutea, S. marcescens, Bacillus subtilis, B. pseudomycoides, and B. thuringiensis and next Enterococcus faecalis, E. faecium, Streptococcus pneumoniae, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, and P. fluorescens strains. In vitro penetration studies showed the penetration of some phenolic acids and their accumulation in the skin. Our results confirm the importance of skin penetration studies to guarantee the efficacy of formulations containing E. angustifolium extracts.

Calcium, magnesium and aluminium ions as decontaminating agents against dermal fluoride absorption following hydrofluoric acid exposure

The fluoride ions of the industrially largely irreplaceable, locally corrosive hydrofluoric acid (HF) can scavenge cations in biological tissues, which explains their high toxic potential, and also leads to local acidification through proton release. The influence of three complexing agents, calcium (Ca²⁺) gluconate (as 2.5% Ca²⁺gel and individually (2.84%) or commercially (10%) formulated Ca²⁺solution), magnesium (Mg²⁺) gluconate (2.84%) solution and aluminium (Al³⁺) solution (Hexafluorine®, pure and diluted) on the absorption of fluoride following HF exposure (1-3 min, 100 μl, 30%/0.64 cm²) through human skin was investigated in an ex-vivo diffusion cell model. Fluoride absorption was assessed over 6-24 h and analysed with a fluoride electrode. Decreasing the contamination time reduced the fluoride absorption distinctly which was further reduced by the application of fluoride-binding decontamination agents (Ca²⁺, Mg²⁺, Al³⁺) or water alone without being significantly different. Ca²⁺ appeared slightly more effective than Mg²⁺ in reducing fluoride absorption. Moreover, the addition of pH adjusting buffer promoted the decontamination efficacy. Fluoride-binding agents can facilitate the decontamination of dermal HF exposure. However, prompt decontamination appeared to be the key to successful limitation of fluoride absorption and pushes the choice of decontamination agent almost into the background.

The effect of alcohols as vehicles on the percutaneous absorption and skin retention of ibuprofen modified with l-valine alkyl esters

The effect of various alcohols as vehicles on skin permeability was compared for unmodified ibuprofen (IBU) and ion pairs of ibuprofen with l-valine alkyl esters [ValOR][IBU], in which the alkyl chain R was changed from C1 to C8. In vitro permeation experiments were conducted in a Franz cell with porcine skin. Methanol, ethanol, and isopropanol solutions of 70% (v/v) were chosen as vehicles for penetrants and a buffer solution of pH 5.4 or 7.4 as the acceptor phase. The comparisons of permeation profiles for various [ValOR][IBU] from different alcohols were determined. The cumulative mass, skin accumulation, steady-state flux, diffusion coefficient, and lag time were investigated and compared. It was observed that i-propanol was the best enhancer of skin permeation of both unmodified ibuprofen and its salts with l-valine alkyl esters for both acceptor phases. The permeability of the various carriers increases with increasing chain-length of the alcohol. In most cases, significantly higher cumulative mass was found in the acceptor buffer of pH 7.4. The conjugate of ibuprofen with l-valine propyl ester [ValOPr][IBU] permeated the skin to the highest degree in comparison to unmodified ibuprofen. The accumulation of ibuprofen was higher for all salts in relation to the parent acid applied onto the skin. The greatest amounts of ibuprofen were accumulated in the skin when ibuprofen was used as the ionic pair with l-valine butyl ester, [ValOBu][IBU] in the i-propanol solution and pH 7.4 buffer as the acceptor phase.

The effect of various alcohols as vehicles on skin permeability was compared for unmodified ibuprofen (IBU) and ion pairs of ibuprofen with l-valine alkyl esters [ValOR][IBU], in which the alkyl chain R was changed from C1 to C8.

Enhancement of the antioxidant and skin permeation properties of eugenol by the esterification of eugenol to new derivatives

The aim of the study was to determine the antioxidant activity and assess the lipophilicity and skin penetration of eugenyl chloroacetate (EChA), eugenyl dichloroacetate (EDChA), and eugenyl trichloroacetate (ETChA). Identification of the obtained products was based on gas chromatography (GC), infrared spectroscopy (FTIR/ATR), gas chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry (GC-MS), and the analysis of 13C-NMR and 1H-NMR spectra. The antioxidative capacity of the derivatives obtained was determined by the DPPH free radical reduction method, while the octanol/water partition coefficient (shake-flask method) was tested to determine the lipophilicity of these compounds. In the next stage of testing EDChA and ETChA-(compounds characterized by the highest degree of free radical scavenging), the penetration of DPPH through pig skin and its accumulation in the skin were evaluated. For comparison, penetration studies of eugenol alone as well as dichloroacetic acid (DChAA) and trichloroacetic acid (TChAA) were also carried out. The antioxidant activity (DPPH, ABTS, and Folin-Ciocalteu methods) of the fluid that penetrated through pig skin was also evaluated. The in vitro pig skin penetration study showed that eugenol derivatives are particularly relevant for topical application. The obtained derivatives were characterized by a high level of antioxidant activity estimated after 24 h of conducting the experiment, which indicates long-term protection against reactive oxygen species (ROS) in the deeper layers of the skin.

Skin Irritation Testing beyond Tissue Viability: Fucoxanthin Effects on Inflammation, Homeostasis, and Metabolism

UV light catalyzes the ozone formation from air pollutants, like nitrogen oxides. Since ozone reacts with cutaneous sebum lipids to peroxides and, thus, promotes inflammation, tumorigenesis, and aging, even broad-spectrum sunscreens cannot properly protect skin. Meanwhile, xanthophylls, like fucoxanthin, proved their antioxidant and cytoprotective functions, but the safety of their topical application in human cell-based models remains unknown. Aiming for a more detailed insight into the cutaneous fucoxanthin toxicity, we assessed the tissue viability according to OECD test guideline no. 439 as well as changes in inflammation (IL-1α, IL-6, IL-8), homeostasis (EGFR, HSPB1) and metabolism (NAT1). First, we proved the suitability of our 24-well-based reconstructed human skin for irritation testing. Next, we dissolved 0.5% fucoxanthin either in alkyl benzoate or in ethanol and applied both solutions onto the tissue surface. None of the solutions decreased RHS viability below 50%. In contrast, fucoxanthin ameliorated the detrimental effects of ethanol and reduced the gene expression of pro-inflammatory interleukins 6 and 8, while increasing NAT1 gene expression. In conclusion, we developed an organ-on-a-chip compatible RHS, being suitable for skin irritation testing beyond tissue viability assessment. Fucoxanthin proved to be non-irritant in RHS and already showed first skin protective effects following topical application.

Enhancement of ibuprofen solubility and skin permeation by conjugation with l-valine alkyl esters

New ibuprofen derivatives were made via conjugation with l-valine alkyl esters (ValOR), where R was changed from an ethyl to a hexyl group. The ionic structure was confirmed using NMR and FTIR. Specific rotation, solubility in commonly used solvents, thermal properties including phase transitions temperatures, and thermal stability were also determined. The ionic structure with a protonated amine group on an l-valine ester and melting points below 100 °C allowed inclusion of these ibuprofen derivatives into the pharmaceutically active protic ionic liquids. The ibuprofen salt solubility in deionised water and two buffer solutions at pH 5.4 and 7.4 were established and compared with the parent acid solubility. The octanol/water (buffer) partition coefficient, permeation through porcine skin, and accumulation in the skin were also measured. Ibuprofen pairing with l-valine alkyl esters [ValOR][IBU], caused higher solubility and a greater drug molecule absorption through biological membranes. log P was lower for ibuprofen salts than for the acid and it increased with a longer l-valine ester cation alkyl chain. In vitro porcine skin tests showed that ibuprofen salts with a propyl or isopropyl ester in l-valine are particularly relevant for topical application. They provide transport for ibuprofen through the skin at much higher rate than the unmodified acid and a higher permeated ibuprofen concentration, which can improve efficacy. Thus, synthesised ibuprofen derivatives could be used as drug carriers in transdermal systems to provide better drug bioavailability, and they can be also be the source of exogenous l-valine.

New ibuprofen derivatives made via conjugation with l-valine alkyl esters have better solubility in aqueous solutions and a lower log P value compared to the parent acid. They provide faster and more completely permeation of drug through the skin.