Analysis of the polyester clothing value chain to identify key intervention points for sustainability

Release of microplastic fibers from synthetic textiles during household washing

Textile materials are one of the primary sources of microplastic pollution. The washing procedure is by far the most significant way that textile products release microplastic fibers (MPFs). Therefore, in this study, the effects of various textile raw materials (A acrylic, PA polyamide, PET polyester, RPET recycled polyester and PP polypropylene), fabric construction properties (woven, knitted), thickness and basis weight values on MPFs release at different washing stages (pre-washing, soaping/rinsing) were examined separately. To mimic the most popular home washing procedures, a 10-min pre-wash and a 35-min soaping/rinsing phase at 40 °C were selected for the washing procedure. Utilizing the Image J program on macroscopic images captured by a high-resolution SL. R camera, the microfibers collected by filtering the water have been visually counted. According to the results, knitted fabrics released fewer MPFs than woven fabrics, with the woven acrylic sample (A3-w) exhibiting the highest release (2405 MPFs). The number of MPFs increased along with the thickness and weight of the fabric. Recycled polyester was found to release more MPFs than virgin polyester under the same conditions (1193 MPFs vs. 908 MPFs). This study demonstrates how recycled polyester, although initially an environmentally beneficial solution, can eventually become detrimental to the environment. Furthermore, it is known that the pre-washing procedure-which is optional-releases a lot more MPFs than the soaping and rinsing procedures, and that stopping this procedure will drastically lower the amount of MPFs incorporated into the water.

Enhancement of the degradation capacity of IsPETase by acidic amino acids insertion and carbohydrate-binding module fusion

The biocatalytic degradation of poly(ethylene terephthalate) (PET) through enzymatic methods has garnered considerable attention due to its environmentally friendly and non-polluting nature, as well as its high specificity. While previous efforts in enhancing IsPETase performance have focused on amino acid substitutions in protein engineering, we introduced an amino acid insertion strategy in this work. By inserting a negatively charged acidic amino acid, Glu, at the right-angle bend of IsPETase, the binding capability between the enzyme's active pocket and PET was improved. The resulted mutant IsPETase9394insE exhibited enhanced hydrolytic activity towards PET at various temperatures ranging from 30 to 45 ℃ compared with the wild-type IsPETase. Notably, a 10.04-fold increase was observed at 45 ℃. To further enhance PET hydrolysis, different carbohydrate-binding modules (CBMs) were incorporated at the C-terminus of IsPETase9394insE. Among these, the fusion of CBM from Verrucosispora sioxanthis exhibited the highest enhancement, resulting in a 1.82-fold increase in PET hydrolytic activity at 37 ℃ compared with the IsPETase9394insE. Finally, the engineered variant was successfully employed for the degradation of polyester filter cloth, demonstrating its promising hydrolytic capacity. In conclusion, this research presents an alternative enzyme engineering strategy for modifying PETases and enriches the pool of potential candidates for industrial PET degradation.

A review on textile solid waste management: Disposal and recycling

Due to global population growth and living standards improvements, textile production and consumption are increased. Textile solid waste has become challenging issue for waste management authority. It is reported that textile materials are discarded daily, representing approximately 1.5% of the generated waste around the world. Over the past few decades, special attention has been given to the used clothes in all regions globally, which can reduce energy costs by 80% and also represent a source of raw materials economically profitable and environmentally responsible. This review article attempted to address different topics including: source of solid textile waste, environmental impact of textile waste as a result of massive consumption of clothing, textile waste management processes such as recycling, reuse of textile waste, landfill and incineration and energy recovery from textile waste. Narrative review with collection of recent quantitative information was carried to reflect the status of textile solid waste. In this article, the possibilities of bio-ethanol production from textile waste as valuable cellulosic raw material are investigated and presented. Results show that developing countries lack of systematic waste management. On another side of the globe, some countries are trying to recover energy these days by incineration. The heat and power that recovered from this process can be used instead of other energy sources. Throughout the incineration process, flue gases (CO2, H2O, O2, N2) are generated so it should be properly designed to avoid pollution. During energy recovery, different pre-treatment methods and different enzymatic hydrolysis parameters are recommended to be implied for better results.

Transforming pollution into solutions: A bibliometric analysis and sustainable strategies for reducing indoor microplastics while converting to value-added products

Microplastics (MPs), as emerging indoor contaminants, have garnered attention due to their ubiquity and unresolved implications for human health. These tiny particles have permeated indoor air and water, leading to inevitable human exposure. Preliminary evidence suggests MP exposure could be linked to respiratory, gastrointestinal, and potentially other health issues, yet the full scope of their effects remains unclear. To map the overall landscape of this research field, a bibliometric analysis based on research articles retrieved from the Web of Science database was conducted. The study synthesizes the current state of knowledge and spotlights the innovative mitigation strategies proposed to curb indoor MP pollution. These strategies involve minimizing the MP emission from source, advancements in filtration technology, aimed at reducing the MP exposure. Furthermore, this research sheds light on cutting-edge methods for converting MP waste into value-added products. These innovative approaches not only promise to alleviate environmental burdens but also contribute to a more sustainable and circular economy by transforming waste into resources such as biofuels, construction materials, and batteries. Despite these strides, this study acknowledges the ongoing challenges, including the need for more efficient removal technologies and a deeper understanding of MPs' health impacts. Looking forward, the study underscores the necessity for further research to fill these knowledge gaps, particularly in the areas of long-term health outcomes and the development of standardized, reliable methodologies for MP detection and quantification in indoor settings. This comprehensive approach paves the way for future exploration and the development of robust solutions to the complex issue of microplastic pollution.

Reversible Sensing Technologies Using Upcycled TPEE: Crafting pH and Light Responsive Materials towards Sustainable Monitoring

Multiresponsive materials with reversible and durable characteristics are indispensable because of their promising applications in environmental change detections. To fabricate multiresponsive materials in mass production, however, complex reactions and impractical situations are often involved. Herein, a dual responsive (light and pH) spiropyran-based smart sensor fabricated by a simple layer-by-layer (LbL) assembly process from upcycled thermoplastic polyester elastomer (TPEE) materials derived from recycled polyethylene terephthalate (r-PET) is proposed. Positively charged chitosan solutions and negatively charged merocyanine-COOH (MC-COOH) solutions are employed in the LbL assembly technique, forming the chitosan-spiropyran deposited TPEE (TPEE-CH-SP) film. Upon UV irradiation, the spiropyran-COOH (SP-COOH) molecules on the TPEE-CH-SP film undergo the ring-opening isomerization, along with an apparent color change from colorless to purple, to transform into the MC-COOH molecules. By further exposing the TPEE-CH-MC film to hydrogen chloride (HCl) and nitric acid (HNO3) vapors, the MC-COOH molecules can be transformed into protonated merocyanine-COOH (MCH-COOH) with the simultaneous color change from purple to yellow.

Oligoester Identification in the Inner Coatings of Metallic Cans by High-Pressure Liquid Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry with Cone Voltage-Induced Fragmentation

The application of polyesters as food contact materials is an alternative to epoxy resin coatings, which can be a source of endocrine migrants. By using high-pressure liquid chromatography/electrospray ionization-mass spectrometry (HPLC/ESI-MS) with cone voltage-induced fragmentation in-source, a number of polyester-derived migrants were detected in the extracts of inner coatings of metallic cans. The polyester-derived migrants were detected in each inner coating of fish product-containing cans (5/5) and in one inner coating of meat product-containing can (1/5). They were not detected in the inner coatings of vegetable/fruit product-containing cans (10 samples). The respective detected parent and product ions enabled differentiation between cyclic and linear compounds, as well as unambiguous identification of diol and diacid units. Most of the detected compounds, cyclic and linear, were composed of neopentyl glycol as diol and two diacid comonomers, namely isophthalic acid and hexahydrophthalic acid. The other detected oligoesters were composed of neopentyl glycol or propylene glycol and adipic acid/isophthalic acid as comonomers. The compounds containing propylene glycol as diol were found to be exclusively linear cooligoesters. On the basis of abundances of [M+Na]+ ions, the relative contents of cyclic and linear oligoesters were evaluated.

Utilization of used textiles for solid recovered fuel production

One of the current important issues is the management of used textiles. One method is recycling, but the processes are characterized by a high environmental burden and the products obtained are of lower quality. Used textiles can be successfully used to produce SRF (solid recovered fuels). This type of fuel is standardized by ISO 21640:2021. In the paper, an analysis of used textiles made from fibers of different origins was performed. These were acrylic, cotton, linen, polyester, wool, and viscose. A proximate and ultimate analysis of the investigated samples was performed, including mercury and chlorine content. The alternative fuel produced from used textiles will be characterized by acceptable parameters for consumers: a lower heating value at 20 MJ/kg (class 1-3 SRF), mercury content below 0.9 µg Hg/MJ (class 1 SRF), and a chlorine content below 0.2% (class 1 SRF). However, the very high sulfur content in wool (3.0-3.6%) and the high nitrogen content in acrylic may limit its use for power generation. The use of alternative fuel derived from used textiles may allow 3% of the coal consumed to be substituted in 2030. The reduction in carbon dioxide emissions from the substitution of coal with an alternative fuel derived from used textiles will depend on their composition. For natural and man-made cellulosic fibers, the emission factor can be assumed as for plant biomass, making their use for SRF production preferable. For synthetic fibers, the emission factor was estimated at the level of 102 and 82 gCO2/MJ for polyester and acrylic, respectively.

Chemical reactivity theory to analyze possible toxicity of microplastics: Polyethylene and polyester as examples

Micro- and nanoplastics are widespread throughout the world. In particular, polyethylene (PE) and polyethylene terephthalate or polyester (PET) are two of the most common polymers, used as plastic bags and textiles. To analyze the toxicity of these two polymers, oligomers with different numbers of units were used as models. The use of oligomers as polymeric templates has been used previously with success. We started with the monomer and continued with different oligomers until the chain length was greater than two nm. According to the results of quantum chemistry, PET is a better oxidant than PE, since it is a better electron acceptor. Additionally, PET has negatively charged oxygen atoms and can promote stronger interactions than PE with other molecules. We found that PET forms stable complexes and can dissociate the guanine-cytosine nucleobase pair. This could affect DNA replication. These preliminary theoretical results may help elucidate the potential harm of micro- and nanoplastics.

Innovative building materials by upcycling clothing waste into thermal energy storage matrix with phase change materials

The current volume of clothing waste reached 115 million tons in 2021 and is projected to increase to approximately 150 million tons by 2030. This significant surge in clothing waste has prompted heightened discussions regarding environmentally friendly recycling methods. Clothing presents complex properties, posing substantial challenges to recycling and usually resulting in environmental pollution when disposed. In this study, our recycling approach capitalizes on the differing melting points of textiles. This transformation was achieved through a physical process that included an opening procedure and high temperature heat compression. Textile materials exhibit exceptional thermal properties. Through experimentation on 50 g fiber specimens, thermal conductivities similar to commercial insulation materials were observed, registering an average of 0.0592 W/m·K at 20 °C and 0.06053 W/m·K at 40 °C. This study explores the impregnation of phase change materials (PCMs) into clothing waste-based specimens, equipping them with heat storage capabilities. During the experimental phase, we employed three distinct types of PCMs to evaluate their thermal properties and heat storage capacities in relation to their respective melting temperatures. Through thermal properties analysis, we determined the latent heat capacity of each specimen, ranging from a minimum of 6.63 J/g to a maximum of 75.81 J/g. Our observations indicated a reduction in peak temperature and time-leg effects attributable to the use of PCMs for surface heat flow. This research underscores the superior thermal performance of construction and building materials derived from clothing waste, enhanced by the integration of PCMs, when compared to traditional materials and other waste-derived alternatives.

Mobilisation of textile waste to recover high added value products and energy for the transition to circular economy

The textile industry is a major contributor to global waste, with millions of tons of textiles being discarded annually. Material and energy recovery within circular economy offer sustainable solutions to this problem by extending the life cycle of textiles through repurposing, recycling, and upcycling. These initiatives not only reduce waste but also contribute to the reduction of the demand for virgin materials (i.e. cotton, wool), ultimately benefiting the environment and society. The circular economy approach, which aims to recreate environmental, economic, and societal value, is based on three key principles: waste reduction, material circulation, and ecological restoration. Given these difficulties, circularity incorporates the material recovery approach, which is focused on the conversion of waste into secondary raw resources. The goal of this notion is to extract more value from resources by prolonging final disposal as long as feasible. When a textile has outlived its functional life, material recovery is critical for returning the included materials or energy into the manufacturing cycle. The aim of this paper is to examine the material and energy recovery options of main raw materials used in the fashion industry while highlighting the need of close observation of the relation between circularity and material recovery, including the investigation of barriers to the transition towards a truly circular fashion industry. The final results refer to the main barriers of circular economy transition within the industry and a framework is proposed. These insights are useful for academia, engineers, policy makers and other key stakeholders for the clear understanding of the industry from within and highlight beyond circular economy targets, SDGs interactions with energy and material recovery of textile waste (SDG 7, SDG 11, SDG 12 etc.).

Electrospinning of photochromic poly(ethylene terephthalate) nanofibers toward information authentication

The use of photochromism to enhance the anti-counterfeiting of a wide range of economic goods is an intriguing prospect. Creating a translucent anti-counterfeiting nanocomposite is critical to improving the engineering procedures of the encoding materials. Herein, we use electrospinning to produce anti-counterfeiting nanofibrous films from nanoparticles of rare-earth aluminate (NREA) and recycled poly(ethylene terephthalate) (PET). Different nanofiber films with distinct emission properties were created using different ratios of NREA. The ultraviolet (UV)-induced photochromism of the NREA@PET nanofibers was proved. Immobilizing NREA at the nanoscale ensures better dispersion without agglomeration in the PET nanofibrous matrix, which is essential for the development of transparent NREA@PET films. Diameters of 4-13 nm for NREA were shown using transmission electron microscopy. X-ray fluorescence spectroscopy, energy-dispersive X-ray spectroscopy, Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy, scanning electron microscopy, elemental mapping, and other techniques were used to investigate the photochromic nanofibers' morphology, elemental contents, optical transmittance, and mechanical performance. It was observed that the nanofiber diameter in NREA@PET was between 150 and 250 nm. Excitation and emission bands of electrospun NREA@PET nanofibrous films were monitored at 365 and 518 nm, respectively. The superhydrophobicity of NREA@PET increased with increasing NREA concentration. The transparent nanofibers exhibited fast and reversible dual-mode fluorescent photochromism to green emission without fatigue when stimulated beneath a UV source. Using the present anti-counterfeiting films can be regarded as a simple technique to develop flexible materials to launch an ideal marketplace with affordable societal and economic advantages.

First evidence of microplastics in the water and sediment of Surakarta city river basin, Indonesia

The main aim of this study was to assess the presence of microplastics in the water and sediments of the Surakarta city river basin in Indonesia. In order to accurately reflect the river basin, a deliberate selection process was employed to choose three separate sampling locations and twelve sampling points. The results of the study revealed that fragments and fibers were the primary types of microplastics seen in both water and sediment samples. Furthermore, a considerable percentage of microplastics, comprising 53.8 % of the total, had dimensions below 1 mm. Moreover, the prevailing hues identified in the water samples were blue and black, comprising 45.1 % of the overall composition. In contrast, same color categories accounted for 23.3 % of the microplastics found in the soil samples. The analysis of microplastic polymers was carried out utilizing ATR-FTIR spectroscopy, which yielded the identification of various types including polystyrene, silicone polymer, polyester, and polyamide.

Enhancing the Washing Durability and Electrical Longevity of Conductive Polyaniline-Grafted Polyester Fabrics

The demand for wearable electronics has driven the development of conductive fabrics, particularly those incorporating polyaniline (PANI) that is known for its high electrical conductivity, flexibility, and ease of fabrication. However, the limited stability and durability of the conductive fabric, especially during washing, present significant challenges. The drawbacks can be traced by weak physical attachment between the fabric and the conductive coating, leading to a decrease in conductivity over time. These drawbacks significantly impact the fabric's functionality and performance, highlighting the need for effective solutions to enhance its stability and durability. This study focuses on addressing these challenges by employing a thermochemical treatment. A hydrophilic surface of the polyester fabric is obtained after the treatment (hydrolysis), followed by grafting of PANI on it. The adhesion between PANI and the polyester fabrics was found to be enhanced, as proved by contact angle analysis. Furthermore, the PANI-hydrolyzed fabrics (treated) demonstrated stable conductivity (∼10-3 S cm-3) even after 10 washing cycles, showcasing their excellent durability. In comparison, the unhydrolyzed PANI fabric experienced a drop in conductivity by three orders of magnitude. X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy via N 1s core line spectra showed chemical shifts and quantified the level of doping through PANI's protonation level. We found that PANI-hydrolyzed fabrics preserved their dedoping level from 44.77 to 42.68%, indicating improved stability and extension of their electrical properties' lifetime after washing as compared to unhydrolyzed (untreated) fabrics, from 36.99 to 26.61%. This investigation demonstrates that the thermochemical approach can effectively enhance the durability of conductive PANI fabrics, enabling them to withstand the washing process while preserving their electrical endurance.

Paradoxical tensions in exploiting data to implement circular economy in the textile industry

Increasing utilization of data, enabled by digitalization, constitutes a major driver toward circular economy but is not without potential paradoxical tensions. A two-round disaggregative Delphi study and analysis of the qualitative material generated in it explored these tensions. They were found to cohere around three themes: consumer concurrence, business transparency, and technology relevance. The first theme is connected with consumers' behavior and their perceptions as to data's value, the transparency one involves alignment of business interests and practices with data-driven developments, and the third pertains to the actual environmental impact of digital technologies used to initiate data-driven circular economy. Business decision-making should address both the positive and the negative effects, in both the short and long term. Insight as to these tensions supports discovering how businesses can successfully utilize data in their efforts promoting circular economy within the complex reality of dynamically changing business environments.

Micro- and nanoplastic toxicity: A review on size, type, source, and test-organism implications

Polymeric wastes are among the current major environmental problems due to potential pollution and contamination. Within the spectrum of polymeric waste, microplastics (MPs) and nanoplastics (NPs) have gained ground in recent research since these particles can affect the local biota, inducing toxic effects on several organisms. Different outcomes have been reported depending on particle sizes, shape, types, and exposed organisms and conditions, among other variables. This review aimed to compile and discuss the current knowledge and possible literature gaps regarding the MPs and NPs generation and their toxicological effects as stressors, considering polymer type (as polyethylene, polypropylene, polyethylene terephthalate, polystyrene, polyvinyl chloride, or others), size (micro- or nano-scale), source (commercial, lab-synthesized, or environmental) and test organism group. In that sense, 615 publications were analyzed, among which 72 % discussed micro-sized plastics, while <28 % assayed the toxicity of NPs (<1 μm). For most polymers, MPs and NPs were commercially purchased and used without additional size reduction processes; except for polyethylene terephthalate studies that mostly used grinding and cutting methods to obtain MPs. Polystyrene (PS) was the main polymer studied, as both MPs and NPs. PS accounts for >90 % of NPs reports evaluated, reflecting a major literature gap if compared to its 35.3 % share on MPs studies. Among the main organisms, arthropods and fish combined accounted for nearly 40 % of toxicity testing. Overall, the different types of plastics showed a tendency to report toxic effects, except for the 'Survival/lethality' category, which might indicate that polymeric particles induce mostly sublethal toxic effects. Furthermore, despite differences in publication numbers, we observed greater toxicity reported for NPs than MPs with oxidative stress among the majorly investigated endpoints. This study allowed a hazard profile overview of micro/nanoplastics (MNPs) and the visualization of literature gaps, under a broad diversity of toxicological evidence.

Environmental sustainability assessment of a polyester T-shirt - Comparison of circularity strategies

The considerable environmental burden of textiles is currently globally recognized. This burden can be mitigated by applying circular economy (CE) strategies to the commonly linear, short garment life cycles that end with incineration or landfill disposal. Even though all CE strategies strive to promote environmental sustainability, they might not be equally beneficial. Environmental data on different textile products is insufficiently available, which leads to complications when assessing and deciding on different CE strategies to be implemented. This paper studies the environmental impacts of a polyester T-shirt's linear life cycle through life cycle assessment (LCA) and evaluates the benefits attainable by adopting different CE strategies, and their order of priority, while noting uncertainty arising from poor data quality or unavailability. The LCA is complemented by assessing health and environmental risks related to the different options. Most of the linear life cycle's LCA-based impacts arise from use-phase washing. Hence, it is possible to reduce the environmental impact notably (37 %) by reducing the washing frequency. Adopting a CE strategy in which the shirt is reused by a second consumer, to double the number of uses, enables an 18 % impact reduction. Repurposing recycled materials to produce the T-shirt and recycling the T-shirt material itself emerged as the least impactful CE strategies. From the risk perspective, reusing the garment is the most efficient way to reduce environmental and health risks while washing frequency has a very limited effect. Combining different CE strategies offers the greatest potential for reducing both environmental impacts as well as risks. Data gaps and assumptions related to the use phase cause the highest uncertainty in the LCA results. To gain the maximum environmental benefits of utilizing CE strategies on polyester garments, consumer actions, design solutions, and transparent data sharing are needed.

Microplastic as an invisible threat to the coral reefs: Sources, toxicity mechanisms, policy intervention, and the way forward

Microplastic (MP) pollution waste is a global macro problem, and research on MP contamination has been done in marine, freshwater, and terrestrial ecosystems. Preventing MP pollution from hurting them is essential to maintaining coral reefs' ecological and economic benefits. However, the public and scientific communities must pay more attention to MP research on the coral reef regions' distribution, effects, mechanisms, and policy evaluations. Therefore, this review summarizes the global MP distribution and source within the coral reefs. Current knowledge extends the impacts of MP on coral reefs, existing policy, and further recommendations to mitigate MPs contamination on corals are critically analyzed. Furthermore, mechanisms of MP on coral and human health are also highlighted to pinpoint research gaps and potential future studies. Given the escalating plastic usage and the prevalence of coral bleaching globally, there is a pressing need to prioritize research efforts on marine MPs that concentrate on critical coral reef areas. Such investigations should encompass an extensive and crucial understanding of the distribution, destiny, and effects of the MPs on human and coral health and the potential hazards of those MPs from an ecological viewpoint.

Sustainable Innovation: Turning Waste into Soil Additives

In recent years, a dynamic increase in environmental pollution with textile waste has been observed. Natural textile waste has great potential for environmental applications. This work identifies potential ways of sustainably managing natural textile waste, which is problematic waste from sheep farming or the cultivation of fibrous plants. On the basis of textile waste, an innovative technology was developed to support water saving and plant vegetation- biodegradable water-absorbing geocomposites (BioWAGs). The major objective of this study was to determine BioWAG effectiveness under field conditions. The paper analyses the effect of BioWAGs on the increments in fresh and dry matter, the development of the root system, and the relative water content (RWC) of selected grass species. The conducted research confirmed the high efficiency of the developed technology. The BioWAGs increased the fresh mass of grass shoots by 230-420% and the root system by 130-200% compared with the control group. The study proved that BioWAGs are a highly effective technology that supports plant vegetation and saves water. Thanks to the reuse of waste materials, the developed technology is compatible with the assumptions of the circular economy and the goals of sustainable development.

Production of biologically active non-woven textiles from recycled polyethylene terephthalate

Recently, various studies have focused on the development of multifunctional non-woven polyethylene terephthalate (PT; polyester) textiles. Herein, we introduce multifunctional non-woven polyester fabrics by pad dry curing silver nitrate (AgNO₃ ) and aniline monomer into plasma-pretreated non-woven PT textile. This creates a nanocomposite layer of silver nanoparticles (AgNPs) and polyaniline (PANi) on the fabric surface. In order to prepare a non-woven fibrous mat, we applied the melt-spinning technique on previously shredded recycled PT plastic waste. On the surface of the cloth, PANi was synthesized by REDOX polymerization of aniline. Due to the oxidative polymerization, the silver ions (Ag⁺ ) were converted to Ag⁰ NPs. PANi acted as a conductor while AgNPs inhibited the growth of microorganisms. Microwave-assisted curing with trimethoxyhexadecylsilane (TMHDS) gave PT textiles with superhydrophobic properties. The morphological studies were performed using Fourier-transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy, scanning electron microscopy (SEM), transmission electron microscopy (TEM), and energy-dispersive X-ray spectroscopy (EDX). The stiffness and breathability of finished non-woven PT textile materials were analyzed to establish their comfort levels. Both of Escherichia coli and Staphylococcus aureus were used to test the efficacy of the AgNPs-treated textiles as antimicrobial materials. Moreover, the processed polyester textiles showed excellent electrical conductivity and great ultraviolet-ray blocking.

Quantification of microfibre release from textiles during domestic laundering

Domestic laundering of textiles is being increasingly recognised as a significant source of microfibre pollution. Reliable quantification of microfibre release is necessary to understanding the scale of this issue and to evaluate the efficacy of potential solutions. This study explores three major factors that influence the quantification of microfibres released from the domestic laundering of textiles: test methodologies, laundering variables, and fabric variables.A review of different test methods is presented, highlighting the variation in quantification created by using different methodologies. A reliable and reproducible method for quantifying microfibre release from domestic laundering is used to explore the impact of laundering and fabric variables experimentally. The reproducibility and reliability of the method used was validated through inter-laboratory trials and has informed the development of European and international testing standards. Our results show that increasing the wash liquor ratio and wash agitation results in a greater mass of microfibres released, but we found that fabric variables can have a greater influence on microfibre release than the laundering variables tested in this study. However, no single fabric variable appeared to have a dominant influence.Using the data obtained and assumptions for washing load size and frequency, results were scaled to reflect possible annual microfibre release from untreated domestic laundering in the UK. Depending on different laundering and fabric variables, these values range from 6490 tonnes to 87,165 tonnes of microfibre discharged in the UK each year.

Transforming municipal cotton waste into a multilayer fibre biocomposite with high strength

We analyzed the problematic textile fiber waste as potential precursor material to produce multilayer cotton fiber biocomposite. The properties of the products were better than the current dry bearing type particleboards and ordinary dry medium-density fiberboard in terms of the static bending strength (67.86 MPa), internal bonding strength (1.52 MPa) and water expansion rate (9.57%). The three-layer, four-layer and five-layer waste cotton fiber composite (WCFC) were tried in the experiment, the mechanical properties of the three-layer WCFC are insufficient, the five-layer WCFC is too thick and the four-layer WCFC had the best comprehensive performance. The cross-section morphology of the four-layer WCFC shows a dense structure with a high number of adhesives attached to the fiber. The hardness and stiffness of the four-layer cotton fiber composite enhanced by the high crystallinity of cellulose content, and several chemical bondings were presence in the composites. Minimum mass loss (30%) and thermal weight loss rate (0.70%/°C) was found for the four-layer WCFC. Overall, our findings suggested that the use of waste cotton fiber (WCF) to prepare biocomposite with desirable physical and chemical properties is feasible, and which can potentially be used as building material, furniture and automotive applications.

Review of research on migration, distribution, biological effects, and analytical methods of microfibers in the environment

Microplastics have been proven to be one of the critical environmental pollution issues. Moreover, microfibers, the most prominent form of microplastics in the environment, have likewise attracted the attention of various countries. With the increase in global population and industrialization, the production and use of fibers continue to increase yearly. As a result, a large number of microfibers are formed. If fiber products are not used or handled correctly, it will cause direct/indirect severe microfiber environmental pollution. Microfibers will be further broken into smaller fiber fragments when they enter the natural environment. Presently, researchers have conducted extensive research in the identification of microfibers, laying the foundation for further resourcefulness research. This work used bibliometric analysis to review the microfiber contamination researches systematically. First, the primary sources of microfibers and the influencing factors are analyzed. We aim to summarize the influence of the clothing fiber preparation and care processes on microfiber formation. Then, this work elaborated on the migration in/between water, atmosphere, and terrestrial environments. We also discussed the effects of microfiber on ecosystems. Finally, microfibers' current and foreseeable effective treatment, disposal, and resource utilization methods were explained. This paper will provide a structured reference for future microfiber research.

Solid-State Enzymatic Hydrolysis of Mixed PET/Cotton Textiles

Waste polyester textiles are not recycled due to separation challenges and partial structural degradation during use and recycling. Chemical recycling of polyethylene terephthalate (PET) textiles through depolymerization can provide a feedstock of recycled monomers to make "as-new" polymers. While enzymatic PET recycling is a more selective and more sustainable approach, methods in development, however, have thus far been limited to clean, high-quality PET feedstocks, and require an energy-intensive melt-amorphization step ahead of enzymatic treatment. Here, high-crystallinity PET in mixed PET/cotton textiles could be directly and selectively depolymerized to terephthalic acid (TPA) by using a commercial cutinase from Humicola insolens under moist-solid reaction conditions, affording up to 30±2 % yield of TPA. The process was readily combined with cotton depolymerization through simultaneous or sequential application of the cellulase enzymes CTec2®, providing up to 83±4 % yield of glucose without any negative influence on the TPA yield.

Improvement of a microfiber filter for domestic washing machines

The development of enhanced processes for filtration is one solution for stopping the increasing freshwater and sea pollution caused by microplastic and microfibers. Major contributors to micro-X pollution are domestic devices such as washing machines, which also hold a high technical potential for separating problematic soils from waste water during cleaning cycles. The focus of the present paper are the biomimetic development of a novel concept for filtration and removal of particles such as microfibers in conventional washing machines. To this goal, a TRIZ analysis yielded viable solutions for the major key issues. In a next step, measurements were made with various filters with and without ribbed structures. The results are promising for the incorporation in a filter concept that is easy to operate and cost-effective.

Application of GC/MS Pyrolysis for Assessment Residues of Textile Composites after Filtration of Washing and Rinsing Effluents

Research on the sources of microplastics (MP) in the environment and the parameters that lead to the loss of microfibers from synthetic textiles during washing have recently attracted public attention. Considering the involvement of a variety of structural and process parameters, it is important to choose methods for quantifying fibers as MP pollutants that migrated during the washing process. In the research to date, various sampling techniques and analytical protocols for the identification of polymers from washed synthetic textiles have been applied. In the present research, pyrolysis coupled with gas chromatography and mass spectrometry (Py-GC/MS), was applied to verify the composition of the filter residue isolated from washing and rinsing effluents. A comparison with bases of polymeric materials has proven the presence of potential environmental pollutants in the form of microfibers released during the washing process. The investigation confirmed that fragments of cotton cellulose residues predominate in relation to polyester. Based on the list of identified compounds generated by Py-GC/MS results and their retention times the multivariate data analysis proved the influence in the bath composition.

Eco-friendly fashion among generation Z: Mixed-methods study on price value image, customer fulfillment, and pro-environmental behavior

Raising environmental awareness and product development are two separate and costly investments that many small and medium-sized fashion businesses cannot afford to achieve sustainability. Therefore, there is a need to determine which factors exert a more significant impact on consumer loyalty and purchase intention toward eco-friendly fashions. Thus, this study employs a mixed-methods approach with thematic analysis and the SEM-PLS technique to research how Vietnamese Gen Z’s perceptions of product-service quality, environmental awareness, and pro-environmental behavior influence their purchase intention and loyalty toward eco-friendly fashion products. Most interviewees acknowledged that they primarily gained knowledge about eco-friendly fashion through social media platforms. The qualitative results further showed that their knowledge of and attitudes toward eco-friendly fashion practices were insufficient to convince young customers to afford eco-friendly fashion products. The SEM-PLS results of 313 participants show that while customers’ perceived behavioral control plays a more significant role in stimulating purchase intention, only product-service quality factors impact loyalty. Hence, this study suggests that businesses should prioritize improving service and product quality rather than funding green marketing when targeting Vietnamese Gen Z in case of financial constraints. Government should prioritize financial and technological support for fashion firms to develop high-quality eco-friendly fashion to ensure the product availability.

Biopolymer Textile Structure of Chitosan with Polyester

The research deals with functionalization of a standard polyester fabric with biopolymer chitosan, whose premises are multifunctional and favour ecological effects. Due to the incompatibility of synthetic and natural polymers, the chitosan treatment was preceded by alkaline hydrolysis with sodium hydroxide with the addition of cationic and anionic surfactants as promoters. Compatibility of the chitosan with untreated and alkali-hydrolyzed fabrics was performed by analysis of mechanical and physico-chemical properties. The number of characterisation procedures performed required the use of hierarchical cluster analysis (HCA) to identify homogeneous groups or clusters in which similarities and differences between samples are visible. Almost all applied methods and evaluation parameters have shown that alkaline hydrolysis of polyester fabric has the best potential for functionalization with chitosan. Therefore, the addition of surfactants as promoters during alkaline hydrolysis is not necessary in the pretreatment process phase.

Prioritizing Cleaner Production Actions towards Circularity: Combining LCA and Emergy in the PET Production Chain

Petrochemicals, which convert oil and gas into products such as plastics, are fundamental to modern societies. Chemists recognize their role in designing materials and the adverse effects that these may have on the environment, preventing sustainable development. Several methodological frameworks and sustainability assessment approaches have been developed to evaluate the resources used in the petrochemical sector in terms of environmental costs. Still, there is a need to evaluate these systems in terms of environmental costs deeply. A combination of life cycle assessment and emergy accounting—to assess the environmental support for resource use—is applied in this study of the PET production chain in Europe. The unit emergy values of several intermediates are calculated or updated to facilitate the discernment of the quality of energy used and the processes’ efficiency. Several routes for synthesizing renewable para-xylene and ethylene glycol from biomass are discussed and confronted with the efforts focused on recycling and recovering the final product, providing concurrently a procedure and a valuable data set for future CP actions. The results show that understanding the efficiencies changing across the production chain may help stakeholders decide where and when interventions to promote a circular economy are most effective along a petrochemical production chain.

Microplastics in Wastewater by Washing Polyester Fabrics

Microplastics have become one of the most serious environmental hazards today, raising fears that concentrations will continue to rise even further in the near future. Micro/nanoparticles are formed when plastic breaks down into tiny fragments due to mechanical or photochemical processes. Microplastics are everywhere, and they have a strong tendency to interact with the ecosystem, putting biogenic fauna and flora at risk. Polyester (PET) and polyamide (PA) are two of the most important synthetic fibres, accounting for about 60% of the total world fibre production. Synthetic fabrics are now widely used for clothing, carpets, and a variety of other products. During the manufacturing or cleaning process, synthetic textiles have the potential to release microplastics into the environment. The focus of this paper is to explore the main potential sources of microplastic pollution in the environment, providing an overview of washable polyester materials.

Environmental effects of stratospheric ozone depletion, UV radiation, and interactions with climate change: UNEP Environmental Effects Assessment Panel, Update 2021

The Environmental Effects Assessment Panel of the Montreal Protocol under the United Nations Environment Programme evaluates effects on the environment and human health that arise from changes in the stratospheric ozone layer and concomitant variations in ultraviolet (UV) radiation at the Earth’s surface. The current update is based on scientific advances that have accumulated since our last assessment (Photochem and Photobiol Sci 20(1):1–67, 2021). We also discuss how climate change affects stratospheric ozone depletion and ultraviolet radiation, and how stratospheric ozone depletion affects climate change. The resulting interlinking effects of stratospheric ozone depletion, UV radiation, and climate change are assessed in terms of air quality, carbon sinks, ecosystems, human health, and natural and synthetic materials. We further highlight potential impacts on the biosphere from extreme climate events that are occurring with increasing frequency as a consequence of climate change. These and other interactive effects are examined with respect to the benefits that the Montreal Protocol and its Amendments are providing to life on Earth by controlling the production of various substances that contribute to both stratospheric ozone depletion and climate change.

Life cycle approach applied to the production of ceramic materials incorporated with ornamental stone wastes

The use of the ornamental stone wastes, such as the originated from granite or marble, has been the subject of technological studies that evaluated its application in ceramic and cement materials; however, some complementary assessments, such as its life cycle assessment, are still not well explored in the literature. Therefore, the objective of this study was to discuss the main environmental impacts related to the manufacture of ceramic specimens, comparing conventional production versus the production of specimens incorporated with ornamental stone wastes. For this, the life cycle assessment was conducted in accordance with ISO 14.040 and 14.044. For this research, the ornamental stone wastes from the municipality of Cachoeiro do Itapemirim-ES and clay from the municipality of Campos dos Goytacazes-RJ were used. The system was modeled, using the SimaPro 9.0 software and the Ecoinvent database 3.3, for the life cycle assessment of the ceramic specimens and the potentiality regarding the use of ornamental stone wastes in ceramic materials using alternative input energy for burning, contributing to the effectiveness of the solid wastes reuse by the ceramic industry. The evaluation identified that the ornamental stone wastes incorporated into the ceramic specimens had significant potential in reducing environmental impacts and that the alternative input energy in burning stage makes them even more relevant. The study points out as the main result, the reduction of 35.74% of the impacts related to the category of the emission of greenhouse gases, and scarcity of mineral resources, 14.83% reduction, when compared to specimens to conventional brick production and alternative brick production, which emphasizes that the ceramic materials with wastes contribute to the mitigation of impacts.

Microplastic load and polymer type composition in European rocky intertidal snails: Consistency across locations, wave exposure and years

Microplastics (<5 mm) are emerging pollutants in oceans worldwide. As such small particles are easily ingested, microplastics are found in numerous pelagic and benthic organisms. However, information on microplastics in rocky intertidal organisms and habitats is relatively scant. Therefore, we examined snails and water samples from wave-sheltered and wave-exposed rocky intertidal habitats in Helgoland (North Sea), Cap Ferrat and Giglio (Mediterranean) and Madeira (Atlantic Ocean) in 2019-2020 for microplastics. Furthermore, we examined snails from the same habitats in Helgoland, Cap Ferrat and Giglio in 2007-2009. In total, we performed 362 individual micro-Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (μFTIR) measurements on the snails and water samples. While the snails contained 50 microplastics (composed of nine polymer types), the water samples contained 24 microplastics (comprising six polymer types). Microplastic load and polymer type composition in the snails were rather similar across locations, wave exposure and years. Also, microplastic load and polymer composition in the water samples were similar across locations and wave exposure. Moreover, snail and water microplastic loads were significantly correlated which indicates that snails are useful bioindicators for microplastic loads in rocky intertidal habitats. Interestingly, the majority of the microplastics consisted of paint chips that likely derived from ships. Overall, our study provides the first comprehensive microplastic record in rocky intertidal organisms across locations, wave exposure and years that can serve as a baseline to examine historic and future microplastic dynamics in rocky intertidal systems.

Microplastics in mangroves and coral reef ecosystems: a review

Microplastic pollution has recently been identified as a major issue for the health of ecosystems. Microplastics have typically sizes of less than 5 mm and occur in various forms, such as pellets, fibres, fragments, films, and granules. Mangroves and coral reefs are sensitive and restricted ecosystems that provide free ecological services such as coastal protection, maintaining natural cycles, hotspots of biodiversity and economically valuable goods. However, urbanization and industrial activities have started contaminating even these preserved ecosystems. Here we review sources, occurrence, and toxicity of microplastics in the trophic levels of mangrove and coral reef ecosystems. We present detection methods, such as microscopic identification and spectroscopy. We discuss mitigating measures that prevent the entry of microplastics into the marine environment.

Identification of cellulose textile fibers

Distinguishing different textile fibers is important for recycling waste textiles. Most studies on non-destructive optical textile identification have focused on classifying different synthetic and natural fibers but chemical recycling requires more detailed information on fiber composition and polymer properties. Here, we report the use of near infrared imaging spectroscopy and chemometrics for classifying natural and regenerated cellulose fibers. Our classifiers trained on images of consumer textiles showed 100% true positive rates based on model cross-validation and correctly identified on average 8-9 out of 10 test set pixels using images of specifically made cotton, viscose and lyocell samples of known compositions. These results are significant as they indicate the possibility to monitor and control fiber dosing and subsequent dope viscosity during chemical recycling of cellulose fibers. Our results also suggested the possibility to identify fibers purely based on polymer chain length. This finding opens the possibility to indirectly estimate dope viscosity and creates entirely new hypotheses for combining imaging spectroscopy with classification and regression methods within the broader field of cellulose modification.

A Delphi-Régnier Study Addressing the Challenges of Textile Recycling in Europe for the Fashion and Apparel Industry

The increasing resource pressure and the expanding amount of textile waste have been rising recycling as a clear priority for the fashion and apparel industry. However, textile recycling remains limited and is therefore a targeted issue in the forthcoming EU policies. As the fashion industry is embedded in complex value chains, enhancing textile recycling entails a comprehensive understanding of the existing challenges. Yet, the literature review suggests only limited empirical studies in the sector, and a dedicated state-of-the-art is still lacking. Filling this gap, a Delphi study was conducted supplemented by the Regnier’s Abacus technique. Through an iterative, anonymous, and controlled feedback process, the obstacles collected from the extant literature were collectively discussed with a representative panel of 28 experts, compared to the situation in Europe. After two rounds, the lack of eco-design practices, the absence of incentive policies, and the lack of available and accurate information on the product components emerged as the most consensual statements. Linking theory to practice, this paper aims to improve consistency in the understanding of the current state of textile recycling in Europe, while providing an encompassing outline of the current experts’ opinion on the priority challenges for the sector.

Mechanism underlying the toxicity of the microplastic fibre transfer in the sea cucumber Apostichopus japonicus

Microscopic plastic particles (0.1 µm-5 mm) are widespread hazardous pollutants, and microfibres (MFs) are their dominant shape in habitats. Previous field and laboratory studies have demonstrated that MFs enter the coelomic fluid of sea cucumbers from the water through the respiratory tree. However, the possible mechanism underlying the toxicity of this process is not well understood. Herein, RNA-Seq was used to examine the responses of the respiratory tree during the MF transfer process in the sea cucumber Apostichopus japonicus. Polyester synthetic MFs were used, and the number of transferred MFs was controlled to the amount reported from the field. The results showed that the MFs altered gene expression as the transfer process increased. The top genes regulated by MF transfer were mainly related to metabolic processes and signal transduction pathways, with upregulated genes following low MF transfer and downregulated genes following high MF transfer. Functional enrichment analysis revealed the pathways in which differentially expressed genes were enriched under different MF transfer scenarios. The transcriptomic findings were further supported by histological observations, which revealed injury and loss of cell components. This study contributes to understanding the effects of MFs in a valuable echinoderm species through transcriptomic and histological examinations.

The Future of Functional Clothing for an Improved Skin and Textile Microbiome Relationship

The skin microbiome has become a hot field of research in the last few years. The emergence of next-generation sequencing has given unprecedented insights into the impact and involvement of microbiota in skin conditions. More and more cosmetics contain probiotics or bacteria as an active ingredient, with or without scientific data. This research is also acknowledged by the textile industry. There has been a more holistic approach on how the skin and textile microbiome interacts and how they influence the pH, moisture content and odour generation. To date, most of the ingredients have a broad-spectrum antibacterial action. This manuscript covers the current research and industry developments in the field of skin and textiles. It explores the nature of antimicrobial finishing in textiles which can disrupt the skin microbiome, and the benefits of more natural and microbiome friendly therapies to combat skin conditions, malodour and skin infection.

Plastic microfibre pollution: how important is clothes' laundering?

Plastic microfibre pollution produced by domestic and commercial laundering of synthetic textiles has recently been incriminated in the press and the scientific literature as the main source (up to 90%) of primary microplastics in the oceans. Polyethylene terephthalate (PET) is the most common microfibre encountered. This review aims to provide updated information on worldwide plastic microfibre pollution caused by textile laundering and some possibilities for its control. Release of microfibres during domestic washing and tumble drying, their fate in wastewater treatment plants (WWTPs) and the oceans, and their environmental effects on the aquatic biota are discussed, as well as potential control methods at the levels of textile modification and laundry procedures. Environmental effects on aquatic biota are important; as a result of their small size and length-to-diameter ratio, microfibers are more effectively incorporated by organisms than other plastic particle groups. Simulation laundering studies may be useful in the development of a Standard Test Method and modification of WWTPs may reduce microfibre release into aquatic systems. However, improvements will be necessary in textile design and appliance design, and recommendations should be made to consumers about reducing their personal impact on the environment through their laundering choices, which can include appliances, fabric care products and washing conditions. Official regulation, such as that introduced recently by the French government, may be necessary to reduce plastic microfibre release from clothes' laundering.

Environmental Consequences of Closing the Textile Loop—Life Cycle Assessment of a Circular Polyester Jacket

The textile industry is recognized as being one of the most polluting industries. Thus, the European Union aims to transform the textile industry with its “European Green Deal” and “Circular Economy Action Plan”. Awareness regarding the environmental impact of textiles is increasing and initiatives are appearing to make more sustainable products with a strong wish to move towards a circular economy. One of these initiatives is wear2wearTM, a collaboration consisting of multiple companies aiming to close the loop for polyester textiles. However, designing a circular product system does not lead automatically to lower environmental impacts. Therefore, a Life Cycle Assessment study has been conducted in order to compare the environmental impacts of a circular with a linear workwear jacket. The results show that a thoughtful “circular economy system” design approach can result in significantly lower environmental impacts than linear product systems. The study illustrates at the same time the necessity for Life Cycle Assessment practitioners to go beyond a simple comparison of one product to another when it comes to circular economy. Such products require a wider system analysis approach that takes into account multiple loops, having interconnected energy and material flows through reuse, remanufacture, and various recycling practices.