Rubus rosaefolius extract as a natural preservative candidate in topical formulations

Chromosome-scale genome, together with transcriptome and metabolome, provides insights into the evolution and anthocyanin biosynthesis of Rubus rosaefolius Sm. (Rosaceae)

Rubus rosaefolius is a kind of red raspberry possessing high nutritional and pharmaceutical value. Here we present a chromosome-level draft genome of R. rosaefolius. Of the total 131 assembled scaffolds, 70 with a total size of 219.02 Mb, accounting for 99.33% of the estimated genome size, were anchored to seven pseudochromosomes. We traced a whole-genome duplication (WGD) event shared among members of the Rosaceae family, from which were derived 5090 currently detectable duplicated gene pairs (dgps). Of the WGD-dgps 75.09% underwent purifying selection, and approximately three-quarters of informative WGD-dgps expressed their two paralogs with significant differences. We detected a wide variety of anthocyanins in the berries of R. rosaefolius, and their total concentration remained relatively stable during berry development but increased rapidly during the ripening stage, mainly because of the contributions of pelargonidin-3-O-glucoside and pelargonidin-3-O-(6″-O-malonyl)glucoside. We identified many structural genes that encode enzymes, such as RrDFR, RrF3H, RrANS, and RrBZ1, and play key roles in anthocyanin biosynthesis. The expression of some of these genes significantly increased or decreased with the accumulation of pelargonidin-3-O-glucoside and pelargonidin-3-O-(6″-O-malonyl)glucoside. We also identified some transcription factors and specific methylase-encoding genes that may play a role in regulating anthocyanin biosynthesis by targeting structural genes. In conclusion, our findings provide deeper insights into the genomic evolution and molecular mechanisms underlying anthocyanin biosynthesis in berries of R. rosaefolius. This knowledge may significantly contribute to the targeted domestication and breeding of Rubus species.

Cytogenotoxic evaluations of leaves and stems extracts of Rubus rosifolius in primary metabolically noncompetent cells

Plants with medicinal potential may also produce adverse effects in humans. This seems to be the case for the species Rubus rosifolius, where preliminary studies demonstrated genotoxic effects attributed to extracts obtained from leaves and stems of this plant using on HepG2/C3A human hepatoma cells as a model. Considering the beneficial properties of this plant as an antidiarrheal, analgesic, antimicrobial, and antihypertensive and its effects in the treatment of gastrointestinal diseases, the present study was developed with the aim of determining the cytotoxic and genotoxic potential of extracts of leaves and stems of R. rosifolius in primary without metabolic competence in human peripheral blood mononuclear cells (PBMC). Cell viability analyses at concentrations of between 0.01 and 100 µg/ml of both extracts did not markedly affect cell viability. In contrast, assessment of the genotoxic potential using the comet assay demonstrated significant damage to DNA within PBMC from a concentration of 10 µg/ml in the stem extract, and a clastogenic/aneugenic response without cytokinesis-block proliferation index (CBPI) alterations at concentrations of 10, 20, or 100 µg/ml for both extracts. Under our experimental conditions, the data obtained demonstrated genotoxic and mutagenic effects attributed to extracts from leaves and stems of R. rosifolius in cells in the absence of hepatic metabolism.

Risk assessment via genotoxicity, metabolism, apoptosis, and cell growth effects in a HepG2/C3A cell line upon treatment with Rubus rosifolius (Rosaceae) leaves extract

Sm. (Rosaceae) is a plant traditionally used in Brazil and some other countries to treat diarrhea, stomach diseases, and as an analgesic, antimicrobial, antihypertensive, and as well as other pharmacological properties. The aim of this study was to examine cytotoxic and genotoxic effects of R. rosifolius leaves extract on HepG2/C3A cells and correlate these findings with the expression of mRNA to underlying mechanisms of action. At concentrations between 0.01 and 100 µg/ml, cytotoxic effects were not detected by the MTT assay. This was confirmed by mRNA induction of the CYP3A4 gene (by RT-qPCR assay). However, genotoxic effects occurred at treatments from 1 µg/ml extract (comet and micronucleus test). An increase in the number of cells in S phase was observed at 100 µg/ml, and an elevation in apoptotic cell number was found for all tested concentrations (10, 20, or 100 µg/ml) (cell cycle and apoptosis analysis by flow cytometry). The genotoxicity induced by the extract was the main cause of the rise in the number of cells undergoing apoptosis, as indicated by rise in mRNA of CASP7 gene, and elevation of cells in the S phase of the cell cycle at the higher tested concentrations, as an attempt to repair genetic damage that occurred. These observations suggest that, despite its pharmacological potential, the use of R. rosifolius leaves extract may pose a risk to the integrity of the genetic material of human cells.

Polyphenols as natural antioxidants in cosmetics applications

BACKGROUND

Currently, there is a great interest in cosmetics prepared on natural resources bases and this may restrict the use of synthetic substances. Plants play a relevant role as a source of biologically active natural products with cosmetic and dermatological importance. According to this context, polyphenolic extracts are highlighted because they have proven antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, antimicrobial, and supporting activity in solar photoprotection.

AIMS

The purpose this study were reviewed at reporting the antioxidant activity of phenolic compounds, mainly applied to dermatological therapy, and highlighting the action mechanisms and structure-activity relationship.

METHODOLOGY

In September 2017, we performed a literature search in PubMed and Scielo for scientific researches, antioxidant studies, and systemic reviews. The search terms we used were "PHYTOCOSMETICS" AND "ANTIOXIDANT ACTIVITY" OR "PHENOLIC COMPOUNDS" (from 2000). As inclusion criteria were used relevant original articles, scientific research in the area of interest, and crucial reference articles. Exclusion criteria were: duplicate publications, non-relevant articles and not published in English.

RESULTS

The potential cosmetic application of phenolic compounds as natural antioxidants has been attributed to the chemical structure of these compounds, which to interfere in different phases of the oxidation mechanism.

CONCLUSION

The use of phenolic extracts emerges as a viable alternative for cosmetic application, ensuring a commitment to sustainability. However, it is of crucial importance to evaluate the toxicity risks of raw materials and finished products.

Preservative efficacy of selected antimicrobials of natural origin in a cosmetic emulsion

OBJECTIVE

To investigate the efficacy of 13 antimicrobial substances (11 substances of natural origin and two conventional preservatives as controls) at two concentrations in an o/w cosmetic emulsion.

METHODS

Cosmetic formulations were analysed for total aerobic bacterial count and total combined yeast count according to the European Pharmacopoeia 8.0. Challenge tests were performed according to the ISO 11930 standard.

RESULTS

The total aerobic bacterial count, the total combined yeast count and the total aerobic mesophilic microorganisms were below the acceptable limit for all cosmetic formulations. Challenge test criterion A was fulfilled by all antimicrobials of natural origin, except levulinic acid in the challenge test with Candida albicans, Lactobacillus ferment in the challenge test with C. albicans and Pseudomonas aeruginosa, and grapefruit seed extract in the challenge test with C. albicans. Phenoxyethanol and the combination of methylparaben and propylparaben were inefficient at the minimum studied concentrations.

CONCLUSION

The results offer important comparative data on the level of preservative efficacy within the group of antimicrobials of natural origin and in reference to some typical, widely used conventional preservatives. Further research must be encouraged regarding cosmetic over-preservation. This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved.

Antimicrobial Ingredients as Preservative Booster and Components of Self-Preserving Cosmetic Products

This review reports cosmetic ingredients with antimicrobial activity including synthetic and natural (plant and microbial) origin as alternative for preservatives used in cosmetics as well described mechanism of their action.

Uncommon Trimethoxylated Flavonol Obtained from Rubus rosaefolius Leaves and Its Antiproliferative Activity

This study shows the evaluation the antiproliferative effect of the extract, fractions, and uncommon compounds isolated from R. rosaefolius leaves. The compounds were identified by conventional spectroscopic methods such as NMR-H(1) and C(13) and identified as 5,7-dihydroxy-6,8,4'-trimethoxyflavonol (1), 5-hydroxy-3,6,7,8,4'-pentamethoxyflavone (2), and tormentic acid (3). Both hexane and dichloromethane fractions showed selectivity for multidrug-resistant ovary cancer cell line (NCI-ADR/RES) with total growth inhibition values of 11.1 and 12.6 μg/ml, respectively. Compound 1 also showed selective activity against the same cell line (18.8 μg/ml); however, it was especially effective against glioma cells (2.8 μg/ml), suggesting that this compound may be involved with the in vitro antiproliferative action.

Essential oils and herbal extracts as antimicrobial agents in cosmetic emulsion

The cosmetic industry adapts to the needs of consumers seeking to limit the use of preservatives and develop of preservative-free or self-preserving cosmetics, where preservatives are replaced by raw materials of plant origin. The aim of study was a comparison of the antimicrobial activity of extracts (Matricaria chamomilla, Aloe vera, Calendula officinalis) and essential oils (Lavandulla officinallis, Melaleuca alternifolia, Cinnamomum zeylanicum) with methylparaben. Extracts (2.5 %), essential oils (2.5 %) and methylparaben (0.4 %) were tested against Pseudomonas aeruginosa ATCC 27853, Escherichia coli ATCC 25922, Staphylococcus aureus ATCC 29213, Candida albicans ATCC 14053. Essentials oils showed higher inhibitory activity against tested microorganism strain than extracts and methylparaben. Depending on tested microorganism strain, all tested extracts and essential oils show antimicrobial activity 0.8-1.7 and 1-3.5 times stronger than methylparaben, respectively. This shows that tested extracts and essential oils could replace use of methylparaben, at the same time giving a guarantee of microbiological purity of the cosmetic under its use and storage.