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Jesus A, Sousa E, Cidade H, Cruz MT, Almeida IF. How to fight acute sun damage? Current skin care strategies. Photochem Photobiol Sci 2024:10.1007/s43630-024-00641-3. [PMID: 39342016 DOI: 10.1007/s43630-024-00641-3] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 04/26/2024] [Accepted: 09/18/2024] [Indexed: 10/01/2024]
Abstract
Excessive exposure to sunlight can contribute for skin photo-damage, such as sunburn, dryness, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, immunosuppressive events and skin sensitization reactions. The use of aftersun products is an effective strategy to reduce the visible signs and symptoms of acute photodamage in the skin. Aiming to unveil the active ingredients able to offset acute sun damage, this work focuses on the characterization of the aftersun products market. A total of 84 after-sun formulations from 41 international brands currently marketed in Portugal were analyzed concerning the composition described on the product label, identifying natural and synthetic/semi-synthetic ingredients with the ability to mitigate solar-induced effects. The majority of aftersun formulations contained ingredients derived from terrestrial and marine sources (> 80%). An in-depth examination of these compounds is also offered, revealing the top of the most used natural and synthetic/semi-synthetic ingredients present in aftersun products, as well as their mechanism of action. A critical appraisal of the scientific data was made aiming to highlight the scientific evidence of ingredients able to mitigate skin photodamage. Amino acids and peptides, and A. barbadensis extract were tested for their in vivo efficacy. Nevertheless, all the ingredients were analyzed with in vitro studies as preliminary screening before in vivo, ex vivo and/or clinical studies. In summary, this study provides an overview of the use of active ingredients in commercial aftersun products to understand better the benefits associated with their use in cosmetic formulations and identify opportunities for innovation.
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Affiliation(s)
- Ana Jesus
- Faculty of Pharmacy, UCIBIO-Applied Molecular Biosciences Unit, University of Porto, 4050-313, Porto, Portugal
- Associate Laboratory i4HB-Institute for Health and Bioeconomy, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, 4050-313, Porto, Portugal
| | - Emília Sousa
- Laboratory of Organic and Pharmaceutical Chemistry, Department of Chemical Sciences, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, 4050-313, Porto, Portugal
- CIIMAR-Interdisciplinary Center of Marine and Environmental Research, Avenida General Norton de Matos, S/N, 4450-208, Matosinhos, Portugal
| | - Honorina Cidade
- Laboratory of Organic and Pharmaceutical Chemistry, Department of Chemical Sciences, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, 4050-313, Porto, Portugal.
- CIIMAR-Interdisciplinary Center of Marine and Environmental Research, Avenida General Norton de Matos, S/N, 4450-208, Matosinhos, Portugal.
| | - Maria T Cruz
- Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Coimbra, 3004-531, Coimbra, Portugal.
- Center for Neuroscience and Cell Biology, 3004-504, Coimbra, Portugal.
| | - Isabel F Almeida
- Faculty of Pharmacy, UCIBIO-Applied Molecular Biosciences Unit, University of Porto, 4050-313, Porto, Portugal
- Associate Laboratory i4HB-Institute for Health and Bioeconomy, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, 4050-313, Porto, Portugal
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Hou J, Wei W, Geng Z, Zhang Z, Yang H, Zhang X, Li L, Gao Q. Developing Plant Exosomes as an Advanced Delivery System for Cosmetic Peptide. ACS APPLIED BIO MATERIALS 2024; 7:3050-3060. [PMID: 38598772 DOI: 10.1021/acsabm.4c00096] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 04/12/2024]
Abstract
Peptides are a promising skincare ingredient, but due to their inherent instability and the barrier function of the skin's surface, they often have limited skin absorption and penetration, which can significantly hinder their skincare benefits. To address this, a novel technique called NanoGlow has been introduced for encapsulating peptide-based cosmetic raw materials into engineered nanosized plant-derived exosomes (pExo) to achieve the goal of a healthier and more radiant skin state. In this approach, pExo served as carriers for cosmetic peptides across the intact skin barrier, enhancing their biological effectiveness in skin beauty. The NanoGlow strategy combines chemical activation and physical proencapsulation, boasting a high success rate and straightforward and stable operation, making it suitable for large-scale production. Comprehensive analysis using in vitro cellular absorption and skin penetration models has demonstrated that the nanosized pExo carriers significantly improve peptide penetration into the skin compared to free peptides. Furthermore, in vivo tissue slice studies have shown that pExo carriers efficiently deliver acetyl hexapeptide-8 to the skin's dermis, surpassing the performance of free peptides. Cosmetic skincare effect analysis has also indicated that pExo-loaded cosmetic peptides deliver superior results. Therefore, the NanoGlow technique harnesses the natural size and properties of pExo to maximize the bioavailability of cosmetic peptides, holding great promise for developing advanced peptide delivery systems in both the cosmetic and medical drug industries.
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Affiliation(s)
- Jiali Hou
- Beijing Youngen Biotechnology Co. Ltd., Beijing 102600, China
| | - Wei Wei
- Beijing Youngen Biotechnology Co. Ltd., Beijing 102600, China
| | - Zaijun Geng
- Beijing Key Lab of Plant Resource Research and Development, Beijing Technology and Business University, Beijing 100048, China
| | - Zhenxing Zhang
- Beijing Youngen Biotechnology Co. Ltd., Beijing 102600, China
| | - Hui Yang
- Beijing Youngen Biotechnology Co. Ltd., Beijing 102600, China
| | - Xuhui Zhang
- Beijing Youngen Biotechnology Co. Ltd., Beijing 102600, China
| | - Li Li
- Beijing Key Lab of Plant Resource Research and Development, Beijing Technology and Business University, Beijing 100048, China
| | - Qi Gao
- Beijing Youngen Biotechnology Co. Ltd., Beijing 102600, China
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Zhang Y, Cheng D, Wang Z, Guo Y, Chang M, Liu R. Protective Effect of Orbitides from Linseed (Linum usitatissimum L.) against Ultraviolet B-induced Photoaging in Zebrafish. Photochem Photobiol 2023; 99:1332-1342. [PMID: 36484266 DOI: 10.1111/php.13758] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 10/06/2022] [Accepted: 12/05/2022] [Indexed: 12/13/2022]
Abstract
Excessive ultraviolet (UV) exposure is the primary environmental factor that contributes to skin aging. Orbitides have been considered as important functional components in linseed, and they are complex and multiple. In this study, linseed orbitides (LOs) were divided into oxidized linseed orbitides (OLOs) and reduced linseed orbitides (RLOs) and used to investigate protection against ultraviolet B-induced photoaging in zebrafish. First, the results of the zebrafish embryo acute toxicity test showed that the OLOs had obvious embryo toxicity compared with RLOs. And RLOs had better effect in ultraviolet B-treated zebrafish, which may significantly reduce the reactive oxygen species levels and inhibit the degradation of collagen. Besides, we also found that RLOs could effectively inhibit the oxidation of proteins and lipids and regulate the activity of antioxidant enzymes. Furthermore, neutrophil recruitment to the dorsal and caudal fin regions was observed in UVB-treated zebrafish, and RLOs effectively alleviated this migration. In conclusion, RLOs have strong photoprotective effects and potential to be used as antiphotoaging ingredients.
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Affiliation(s)
- Yu Zhang
- National Engineering Research Center for Functional Food, Collaborative Innovation Center of Food Safety and Quality Control in Jiangsu Province, School of Food Science and Technology, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, Jiangsu, China
| | - Dekun Cheng
- National Engineering Research Center for Functional Food, Collaborative Innovation Center of Food Safety and Quality Control in Jiangsu Province, School of Food Science and Technology, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, Jiangsu, China
| | - Zhangtie Wang
- National Engineering Research Center for Functional Food, Collaborative Innovation Center of Food Safety and Quality Control in Jiangsu Province, School of Food Science and Technology, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, Jiangsu, China
| | - Yiwen Guo
- National Engineering Research Center for Functional Food, Collaborative Innovation Center of Food Safety and Quality Control in Jiangsu Province, School of Food Science and Technology, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, Jiangsu, China
| | - Ming Chang
- National Engineering Research Center for Functional Food, Collaborative Innovation Center of Food Safety and Quality Control in Jiangsu Province, School of Food Science and Technology, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, Jiangsu, China
| | - Ruijie Liu
- National Engineering Research Center for Functional Food, Collaborative Innovation Center of Food Safety and Quality Control in Jiangsu Province, School of Food Science and Technology, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, Jiangsu, China
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Tu HC, Lin MY, Lin CY, Hsiao TH, Wen ZH, Chen BH, Fu TF. Supplementation with 5-formyltetrahydrofolate alleviates ultraviolet B-inflicted oxidative damage in folate-deficient zebrafish. ECOTOXICOLOGY AND ENVIRONMENTAL SAFETY 2019; 182:109380. [PMID: 31279279 DOI: 10.1016/j.ecoenv.2019.109380] [Citation(s) in RCA: 4] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.8] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 05/18/2019] [Revised: 06/19/2019] [Accepted: 06/21/2019] [Indexed: 06/09/2023]
Abstract
Ultraviolet (UV) is an omnipresent environmental carcinogen transmitted by sunlight. Excessive UV irradiation has been correlated to an increased risk of skin cancers. UVB, the most mutagenic component among the three UV constituents, causes damage mainly through inducing DNA damage and oxidative stress. Therefore, strategies or nutrients that strengthen an individual's resistance to UV-inflicted harmful effects shall be beneficial. Folate is a water-soluble B vitamin essential for nucleotides biosynthesis, and also a strong biological antioxidant, hence a micronutrient with potential of modulating individual's vulnerability to UV exposure. In this study, we investigated the impact of folate status on UV sensitivity and the protective activity of folate supplementation using a zebrafish model. Elevated reactive oxygen species (ROS) level and morphological injury were observed in the larvae exposed to UVB, which were readily rescued by supplementing with folic acid, 5-formyltetrahydrofolate (5-CHO-THF) and N-acetyl-L-cysteine (NAC). The UVB-inflicted abnormalities and mortality were worsened in Tg(hsp:EGFP-γGH) larvae displaying folate deficiency. Intriguingly, only supplementation with 5-CHO-THF, as opposed to folic acid, offered significant and consistent protection against UVB-inflicted oxidative damage in the folate-deficient larvae. We concluded that the intrinsic folate status correlates with the vulnerability to UVB-induced damage in zebrafish larvae. In addition, 5-CHO-THF surpassed both folic acid and NAC in preventing UVB-inflicted oxidative stress and injury in our current experimental zebrafish model.
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Affiliation(s)
- Hung-Chi Tu
- The Institute of Basic Medical Sciences, National Cheng Kung University, College of Medicine, Tainan, Taiwan
| | - Meng-Yun Lin
- Department of Medical Laboratory Science and Biotechnology, National Cheng Kung University, College of Medicine, Tainan, Taiwan
| | - Chia-Yang Lin
- Department of Medical Laboratory Science and Biotechnology, National Cheng Kung University, College of Medicine, Tainan, Taiwan
| | - Tsun-Hsien Hsiao
- The Institute of Basic Medical Sciences, National Cheng Kung University, College of Medicine, Tainan, Taiwan
| | - Zhi-Hong Wen
- Department of Marine Biotechnology and Resources, Asia-Pacific Ocean Research Center, National Sun Yat-sen University, Kaohsiung, Taiwan
| | - Bing-Hung Chen
- Department of Biotechnology, Kaohsiung Medical University Hospital, Kaohsiung, Taiwan; Department of Medical Research, Kaohsiung Medical University Hospital, Kaohsiung, Taiwan; Centers for Biomarkers and Biotech Drugs, Kaohsiung Medical University, Kaohsiung, Taiwan; Department of Biological Sciences, National Sun Yat-sen University, Kaohsiung, Taiwan.
| | - Tzu-Fun Fu
- The Institute of Basic Medical Sciences, National Cheng Kung University, College of Medicine, Tainan, Taiwan; Department of Medical Laboratory Science and Biotechnology, National Cheng Kung University, College of Medicine, Tainan, Taiwan.
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UV-protective activities of pineapple leaf extract in zebrafish embryos. RESEARCH ON CHEMICAL INTERMEDIATES 2019. [DOI: 10.1007/s11164-018-3632-5] [Citation(s) in RCA: 3] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.6] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 10/28/2022]
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