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Wu Y, Ma L, Chen T, Chang K, Wang J. Reconnection of cysteine in reduced hair with alkylene dimaleates via thiol-Michael click chemistry. Int J Cosmet Sci 2024; 46:457-467. [PMID: 38224116 DOI: 10.1111/ics.12944] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 05/17/2023] [Revised: 12/06/2023] [Accepted: 12/09/2023] [Indexed: 01/16/2024]
Abstract
OBJECTIVES Conventional hair permanent waving (PW) and permanent straightening processes typically involve two steps: reduction, for breaking -S-S- bond in cystine into cysteine and oxidation for -S-S- bond reconnection. However, it is known that the hair incurs damage during the oxidation step. In this work, we proposed a novel strategy to reconnect reduced disulfide bonds in hair via the thiol-Michael click reaction, by using a symmetric Michael reagent. METHODS Virgin black Chinese hair was reduced using 8% wt thioglycolic acid and employed as model hair containing a high content of broken disulfide bonds. The reduced hair was treated with 1,4-n-butylene dimaleate. Raman spectroscopy and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR) were used to verify the chemical changes occurred in untreated and treated hair fibre. Single-fibre mechanical properties and thermal properties of the hair were evaluated using tensile testing and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), respectively. RESULTS The 1,4-n-butylene dimaleate could reconnect free thiol groups generated by disulfide bond reduction via thiol-Michael click reaction and significantly improve the mechanical strength of hair compared to that of the reduced hair. Secondary conformational resolution analysis of FT-IR results revealed that the content of α-helix structure could be restored after treatment with 1,4-n-butylene dimaleate. The intermolecular forces established by the newly generated C-S bonds compensate the broken disulfide bonds and enhance the fracture strength of the hair compared to that of reduced hair. Michael reagents of similar structure also showed similar performance in restoring the mechanical properties of reduced hair. CONCLUSIONS Our data suggest that 1,4-n-butylene dimaleate can restore the mechanical properties of reduced hair by reconnecting reduced disulfide bonds and restoring the secondary conformation of hair keratin.
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Affiliation(s)
- Yuwen Wu
- Key Laboratory of Synthetic and Biological Colloids, Ministry of Education, School of Chemical and Material Engineering, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, China
| | - Ling Ma
- Adolph Research and Innovation Laboratory, Guangzhou Degu Personal Care Products Co., Ltd., Guangzhou, China
| | - Timson Chen
- Adolph Research and Innovation Laboratory, Guangzhou Degu Personal Care Products Co., Ltd., Guangzhou, China
| | - Kuan Chang
- Key Laboratory of Synthetic and Biological Colloids, Ministry of Education, School of Chemical and Material Engineering, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, China
| | - Jing Wang
- Key Laboratory of Synthetic and Biological Colloids, Ministry of Education, School of Chemical and Material Engineering, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, China
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2
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Chauhan S, Sharma S. Applications of Raman spectroscopy in the analysis of biological evidence. Forensic Sci Med Pathol 2023:10.1007/s12024-023-00660-z. [PMID: 37878163 DOI: 10.1007/s12024-023-00660-z] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Accepted: 05/21/2023] [Indexed: 10/26/2023]
Abstract
During the past few decades, Raman spectroscopy has progressed and captivated added attention in the field of science. However, the application of Raman spectroscopy is not limited to the field of forensic science and analytical chemistry; it is one of the emerging spectroscopic techniques, utilized in the field of forensic science which in turn could be a supporting tool in the law and justice system. The advantage of Raman spectroscopy over the other conventional techniques is that it is rapid, reliable, and non-destructive in nature with minimal or no sample preparation. The quantitative and qualitative analysis of evidence from biological and non-biological origins could easily be performed by using Raman spectroscopy. The forensic domain is highly complex with multidisciplinary branches, and therefore a plethora of techniques are utilized for the detection, identification, and differentiation of innumerable pieces of evidence for the purpose of law and justice. Herein, a systematic review is carried out on the application of Raman spectroscopy in the realm of forensic biology and serology considering its usefulness in practical perspectives. This review paper highlights the significance of modern techniques, including micro-Raman spectroscopy, confocal Raman spectroscopy, surface-enhanced Raman spectroscopy, and paper-based surface-enhanced Raman spectroscopy, in the field of Raman spectroscopy. These techniques have demonstrated notable advancements in terms of their applications and capabilities. Furthermore, to comprehensively capture the progress in the development of Raman spectroscopy, all the published papers which could be retrieved from the available databases from the year 2007 to 2022 were incorporated.
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Affiliation(s)
- Samiksha Chauhan
- LNJN NICFS, School of Forensic Sciences, National Forensic Science University, An Institute of National Importance, Ministry of Home Affairs, Govt. of India, Delhi Campus, Delhi, 110085, India
| | - Sweety Sharma
- LNJN NICFS, School of Forensic Sciences, National Forensic Science University, An Institute of National Importance, Ministry of Home Affairs, Govt. of India, Delhi Campus, Delhi, 110085, India.
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3
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Fellows AP, Casford MTL, Davies PB. Chemically characterizing the cortical cell nano-structure of human hair using atomic force microscopy integrated with infrared spectroscopy (AFM-IR). Int J Cosmet Sci 2021; 44:42-55. [PMID: 34820858 DOI: 10.1111/ics.12753] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 09/16/2021] [Accepted: 11/18/2021] [Indexed: 11/29/2022]
Abstract
OBJECTIVE The use of conventional microscopy and vibrational spectroscopy in the optical region to investigate the chemical nature of hair fibres on a nanometre scale is frustrated by the diffraction limit of light, prohibiting the spectral elucidation of nanoscale sub-structures that contribute to the bulk properties of hair. The aim of this work was to overcome this limitation and gain unprecedented chemical resolution of cortical cell nano-structure of hair. METHODS The hybrid technique of AFM-IR, combining atomic force microscopy with an IR laser, circumvents the diffraction limit of light and achieves nanoscale chemical resolution down to the AFM tip radius. In this work, AFM-IR was employed on ultra-thin microtomed cross-sections of human hair fibres to spectrally distinguish and characterize the specific protein structures and environments within the nanoscale components of cortical cells. RESULTS At first, a topographical and chemical distinction between the macrofibrils and the surrounding intermacrofibillar matrix was achieved based on 2.5 × 2.5 μm maps of cortical cell cross-sections. It was found that the intermacrofibrillar matrix has a large protein content and specific cysteine-related residues, whereas the macrofibrils showed bigger contributions from aliphatic amino acid residues and acidic-/ester-containing species (e.g. lipids). Localized spectra recorded at a spatial resolution of the order of the AFM tip radius enabled the chemical composition of each region to be determined following deconvolution of the Amide-I and Amide-II bands. This provided specific evidence for a greater proportion of α-helices in the macrofibrils and correspondingly larger contributions of β-sheet secondary structures in the intermacrofibrillar matrix, as inferred in earlier studies. Analysis of the parallel and antiparallel β-sheet structures, and of selected dominant amino acid residues, yielded further novel composition and conformation results for both regions. CONCLUSION In this work, we overcome the diffraction limit of light using atomic force microscopy integrated with IR laser spectroscopy (AFM-IR) to characterize sub-micron features of the hair cortex at ultra-high spatial resolution. The resulting spectral analysis shows clear distinctions in the Amide bands in the macrofibrils and surrounding intermacrofibrillar matrix, yielding novel insight into the molecular structure and intermolecular stabilization interactions of the constituent proteins within each cortical component.
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Affiliation(s)
- A P Fellows
- Department of Chemistry, University of Cambridge, Cambridge, UK
| | - M T L Casford
- Department of Chemistry, University of Cambridge, Cambridge, UK
| | - P B Davies
- Department of Chemistry, University of Cambridge, Cambridge, UK
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Correa N, Alunni Cardinali M, Bailey M, Fioretto D, Pudney PDA, Palombo F. Brillouin microscopy for the evaluation of hair micromechanics and effect of bleaching. JOURNAL OF BIOPHOTONICS 2021; 14:e202000483. [PMID: 33768666 DOI: 10.1002/jbio.202000483] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 12/08/2020] [Revised: 02/19/2021] [Accepted: 03/16/2021] [Indexed: 06/12/2023]
Abstract
Brillouin microscopy is a new form of optical elastography and an emerging technique in mechanobiology and biomedical physics. It was applied here to map the viscoelastic properties of human hair and to determine the effect of bleaching on hair properties. For hair samples, longitudinal measurements (i.e. along the fibre axis) revealed peaks at 18.7 and 20.7 GHz at the location of the cuticle and cortex, respectively. For hair treated with a bleaching agent, the frequency shifts for the cuticle and cortex were 19.7 and 21.0 GHz, respectively, suggesting that bleaching increases the cuticle modulus and-to a minor extent-the cortex modulus. These results demonstrate the capability of Brillouin spectroscopy to address questions on micromechanical properties of hair and to validate the effect of applied treatments.
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Affiliation(s)
- Noemi Correa
- School of Physics, University of Exeter, Exeter, UK
| | | | | | - Daniele Fioretto
- Department of Physics and Geology, University of Perugia, Perugia, Italy
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5
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Vyumvuhore R, Verzeaux L, Gilardeau S, Bordes S, Aymard E, Manfait M, Closs B. Investigation of the molecular signature of greying hair shafts. Int J Cosmet Sci 2021; 43:332-340. [PMID: 33713467 DOI: 10.1111/ics.12700] [Citation(s) in RCA: 1] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.3] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 02/02/2021] [Revised: 03/02/2021] [Accepted: 03/07/2021] [Indexed: 12/27/2022]
Abstract
OBJECTIVE Hair greying (i.e. canitie) is a physiological process occurring with the loss of melanin production and deposition within the hair shafts. Many studies reported the oxidation as the main biological process underlying this defect of pigmentation. Even though the overall appearance and biomechanical properties of hairs are reported to be altered with greying, there is a lack of information about molecular modifications occurring in grey hair shafts. The aim of this study was thus to investigate the molecular signature and associated changes occurring in greying hair shafts by confocal Raman microspectroscopy. METHODS This study was conducted on pigmented, intermediate (i.e. grey) and unpigmented hairs taken from 29 volunteers. Confocal Raman microspectroscopy measurements were acquired directly on hair shafts. RESULTS Automatic classification of Raman spectra revealed 5 groups displaying significant differences. Hence, the analysis of the molecular signature highlighted the existence of 3 sub-groups within grey hair: light, medium and dark intermediate. Among molecular markers altered in the course of greying, this study identified for the first time a gradual modification of lipid conformation (trans/gauche ratio) and protein secondary structure (α-helix/β-sheet ratio), referring respectively to an alteration of barrier function and biomechanical properties of greying hair. CONCLUSION This study thus reports for the first time a highly specific molecular signature as well as molecular modifications within grey hair shaft.
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Affiliation(s)
| | | | | | | | | | - Michel Manfait
- BioSpecT (Translational BioSpectroscopy) EA 7506, University of Reims Champagne Ardenne, Reims, France
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Fellows AP, Casford MTL, Davies PB. Nanoscale Molecular Characterization of Hair Cuticle Cells Using Integrated Atomic Force Microscopy-Infrared Laser Spectroscopy. APPLIED SPECTROSCOPY 2020; 74:1540-1550. [PMID: 32462900 PMCID: PMC7747034 DOI: 10.1177/0003702820933942] [Citation(s) in RCA: 10] [Impact Index Per Article: 2.5] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Figures] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 03/04/2020] [Accepted: 05/15/2020] [Indexed: 06/11/2023]
Abstract
The hair cuticle provides significant protection from external sources, as well as giving rise to many of its bulk properties, e.g., friction, shine, etc. that are important in many industries. In this work, atomic force microscopy-infrared spectroscopy (AFM-IR) has been used to investigate the nanometer-scale topography and chemical structure of human hair cuticles in two spectral regions. AFM-IR combines atomic force microscopy with a tunable infrared laser and circumvents the diffraction limit that has impaired traditional infrared spectroscopy, facilitating surface-selective spectroscopy at ultra-spatial resolution. This high resolution was exploited to probe the protein secondary structures and lipid content, as well as specific amino acid residues, e.g., cystine, within individual cuticle cells. Characterization across the top of individual cells showed large inhomogeneity in protein and lipid contributions that suggested significant changes to physical properties on approaching the hair edge. Additionally, the exposed layered sub-structure of individual cuticle cells allowed their chemical compositions to be assessed. The variation of protein, lipid, and cystine composition in the observed layers, as well as the measured dimensions of each, correspond closely to that of the epicuticle, A-layer, exocuticle, and endocuticle layers of the cuticle cell sub-structure, confirming previous findings, and demonstrate the potential of AFM-IR for nanoscale chemical characterization within biological substrates.
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Affiliation(s)
| | - Mike T. L. Casford
- Department of Chemistry, University of Cambridge, Lensfield Road, Cambridge, UK
| | - Paul B. Davies
- Department of Chemistry, University of Cambridge, Lensfield Road, Cambridge, UK
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7
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Porosity at Different Structural Levels in Human and Yak Belly Hair and Its Effect on Hair Dyeing. Molecules 2020; 25:molecules25092143. [PMID: 32375277 PMCID: PMC7248950 DOI: 10.3390/molecules25092143] [Citation(s) in RCA: 4] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 04/14/2020] [Revised: 04/29/2020] [Accepted: 04/29/2020] [Indexed: 11/17/2022] Open
Abstract
Yak belly hair was proposed as a cheap substitute for human hair for the development of hair dyes, as its chemical composition closely resembles human hair in Raman spectroscopy. The absence of melanin in yak belly hair also leads to a strong reduction of fluorescence in Raman measurements, which is advantageous for the investigation of the effectivity of hair dyes. To assess the suitability for replacing human hair, we analyzed similarities and differences of both hair types with a variety of methods: Raman spectroscopy, to obtain molecular information; small-angle X-ray scattering to determine the nanostructure, such as intermediate filament distance, distance of lipid layers and nanoporosity; optical and scanning electron microscopy of surfaces and cross sections to determine the porosity at the microstructural level; and density measurements and tensile tests to determine the macroscopic structure, macroporosity and mechanical properties. Both types of hair are similar on a molecular scale, but differ on other length scales: yak belly hair has a smaller intermediate filament distance on the nanoscale. Most striking is a higher porosity of yak belly hair on all hierarchical levels, and a lower Young’s modulus on the macroscale. In addition to the higher porosity, yak belly hair has fewer overlapping scales of keratin, which further eases the uptake of coloring. This makes, on the other hand, a comparison of coloring processes difficult, and limits the usefulness of yak belly hair as a substitute for human hair.
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Dos Santos JD, Edwards HGM, de Oliveira LFC. Raman spectroscopy and electronic microscopy structural studies of Caucasian and Afro human hair. Heliyon 2019; 5:e01582. [PMID: 31111104 PMCID: PMC6512080 DOI: 10.1016/j.heliyon.2019.e01582] [Citation(s) in RCA: 10] [Impact Index Per Article: 2.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 12/12/2018] [Revised: 04/05/2019] [Accepted: 04/24/2019] [Indexed: 01/09/2023] Open
Abstract
Human hair fibre is subjected to various structural modifications due to the application of chemicals such as dyes, shampoos and bleaches and/or physical procedures such as heating, and often more than one procedure is performed on the same hair. The present work aims to analyze the changes incurred in hair samples of two ethnic groups, namely Caucasian and Afro, before and after different treatments such as thermal, bleaching and straightening. In addition to observing the damage caused by each treatment separately, the study of samples that received all three treatments was carried out. For molecular structural characterization, the Raman vibrational spectroscopic technique was used and scanning electron microscopy (SEM) was used for morphological analysis of the hair fibres. This investigation has shown, through vibrational spectroscopy, that several important bonds have been modified, such as the S-S, C-S, C-C and S-O bonds as well as the secondary structures of proteins that have indergone changes in their conformation as a result of the treatment. Hair from the two ethnic groups showed small differences in relation to each applied treatment. Excessive heat generated a higher rate of Raman spectral band intensity changes when compared to the other treatments and it was observed that the action of several treatments on the same hair fibres resulted in even more pronounced structural changes. Finally, scanning electron microscopy showed that each treatment caused a different morphological deformation pattern on the capillary surface of the human hair.
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Affiliation(s)
- Jordana Dias Dos Santos
- Núcleo de Espectroscopia e Estrutura Molecular, Departamento de Química, Universidade Federal de Juiz de Fora, Campus Universitario s/n, Martelos, Juiz de Fora, MG, 36036-330, Brazil
| | - Howell G M Edwards
- School of Life Sciences, University of Bradford, Bradford, West Yorkshire, BD7 1DP, United Kingdom
| | - Luiz Fernando Cappa de Oliveira
- Núcleo de Espectroscopia e Estrutura Molecular, Departamento de Química, Universidade Federal de Juiz de Fora, Campus Universitario s/n, Martelos, Juiz de Fora, MG, 36036-330, Brazil
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9
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Translating chemometric analysis into physiological insights from in vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy of the human stratum corneum. BIOCHIMICA ET BIOPHYSICA ACTA-BIOMEMBRANES 2019; 1861:403-409. [DOI: 10.1016/j.bbamem.2018.11.007] [Citation(s) in RCA: 8] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.6] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 04/23/2018] [Revised: 10/31/2018] [Accepted: 11/16/2018] [Indexed: 11/23/2022]
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10
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Kuzuhara A. A Raman spectroscopic investigation of the mechanism of the reduction in hair with thioglycerol and the accompanying disulphide conformational changes. Int J Cosmet Sci 2017; 40:34-43. [DOI: 10.1111/ics.12429] [Citation(s) in RCA: 10] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.4] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 04/24/2017] [Accepted: 09/14/2017] [Indexed: 11/29/2022]
Affiliation(s)
- A. Kuzuhara
- Department of Costume and Clothing Science; Faculty of Home Economics; Tokyo Kasei University; 1-18-1, Kaga, Itabashi-ku Tokyo 173-8602 Japan
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11
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Singh RS, Palmer JC, Pudney PDA, Paul PKC, Johannessen C, Debenedetti PG, Raut J, Lee K, Noro M, Tiemessen D. Molecular modeling and structural characterization of a high glycine–tyrosine hair keratin associated protein. Phys Chem Chem Phys 2017; 19:8575-8583. [DOI: 10.1039/c6cp06772g] [Citation(s) in RCA: 13] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.9] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/21/2022]
Abstract
For the first time, the molecular structure of a hair cortical matrix protein KAP8.1 has been characterised using modelling and spectroscopy.
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Affiliation(s)
- Rakesh S. Singh
- Department of Chemical and Biological Engineering
- Princeton University
- Princeton
- USA
| | - Jeremy C. Palmer
- Department of Chemical and Biomolecular Engineering
- University of Houston
- Houston
- USA
| | | | | | | | - Pablo G. Debenedetti
- Department of Chemical and Biological Engineering
- Princeton University
- Princeton
- USA
| | | | - Ken Lee
- Unilever R&D
- Port Sunlight Laboratory
- Wirral
- UK
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Bonnist EYM, Pudney PDA, Weddell LA, Campbell J, Baines FL, Paterson SE, Matheson JR. Understanding the dandruff scalp before and after treatment: anin vivoRaman spectroscopic study. Int J Cosmet Sci 2014; 36:347-54. [DOI: 10.1111/ics.12132] [Citation(s) in RCA: 14] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.4] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 03/07/2014] [Accepted: 03/29/2014] [Indexed: 11/29/2022]
Affiliation(s)
- E. Y. M. Bonnist
- Unilever R&D Colworth; Colworth Science Park, Sharnbrook Bedfordshire MK44 1LQ U.K
| | - P. D. A. Pudney
- Unilever R&D Colworth; Colworth Science Park, Sharnbrook Bedfordshire MK44 1LQ U.K
| | - L. A. Weddell
- Unilever R&D Port Sunlight; Quarry Rd East Bebington Wirral CH63 3JW U.K
| | - J. Campbell
- Unilever R&D Port Sunlight; Quarry Rd East Bebington Wirral CH63 3JW U.K
| | - F. L. Baines
- Unilever R&D Port Sunlight; Quarry Rd East Bebington Wirral CH63 3JW U.K
| | - S. E. Paterson
- Unilever R&D Port Sunlight; Quarry Rd East Bebington Wirral CH63 3JW U.K
| | - J. R. Matheson
- Unilever R&D Port Sunlight; Quarry Rd East Bebington Wirral CH63 3JW U.K
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