Fairness creams in South Asia--a case of disease mongering?

Unraveling the mirage of fairness cream commercials: A cross-sectional analysis of commercials from South Asia

BACKGROUND

Fairness products are an essential component of daily beauty routines for many individuals in subcontinental Asia. However, it is important to be aware that these products often contain ingredients that can be detrimental to the skin and are banned in several developed countries.

OBJECTIVE

Our study aims to analyze the content of fairness cream commercials in order to gain a deeper understanding of the information used to persuade and influence consumers to use these products.

METHODS

Fairness cream commercials originating from countries in subcontinental Asia, including India, Pakistan, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, and Nepal, were specifically searched and analyzed on the YouTube platform.

RESULTS

An analysis of 152 fairness cream commercials on YouTube identified 84.21% of commercials targeted female consumers, while only 15.79% targeted male consumers. 77.63% of commercials used celebrities in their commercials and 47.37% of commercials mentioned specific ingredients.

CONCLUSIONS

Based on our findings, it is crucial for dermatologists to take an active role in educating patients and consumers about the potential risks associated with certain ingredients found in fairness creams. Dermatologists should emphasize the importance of prioritizing overall skin health rather than solely focusing on skin lightening.

Fragrance, Sunscreens, Botanicals, and Potential Allergens in Bestseller 'Fairness' Creams in the Indian Market: A Consumer Exposure Study

Background

The skin lightening industry has seen exponential growth in India. Consumers often present to the dermatologist with adverse cutaneous reactions to these 'fairness' (skin lightening) creams. The composition of these creams has not received sufficient attention.

Objective

To identify fragrance, sunscreens, botanicals and potential allergens in the bestseller 'fairness' creams available in the Indian market.

Methods

Twenty fairness (or whitening or lightening) creams were selected based on the 'bestseller' creams of one of the largest electronic commerce websites in India, and availability in local stores and unlabelled brands were excluded. Fragrance, sunscreens, botanicals and potential allergens were identified from the ingredient labels.

Results

Twenty bestseller fairness creams were included. The number of the listed ingredients in the fairness creams ranged from 6 to 49 (mean = 32.2). The most frequently listed ingredients included water, fragrance or parfum, glycerin, tocopherol/tocopherylacetate and titanium dioxide. Hydroquinone, monobenzyl hydroquinone, corticosteroids, tretinoin and mercury were not listed in any of the creams. Unspecified fragrance was listed in 19 (95%) creams and linalool (8,40%) was the most frequent specified fragrance. Titanium dioxide (14, 70 %) was the most common inorganic sunscreen and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (12 creams or 60% of creams) was the most common organic sunscreen. Twenty-seven botanicals were identified. Eight ingredients were potential allergens according to the Indian Cosmetic and Fragrance Series. The cost of the creams ranged from 95 to 1,095 in Indian rupees (mean 300.5).

Conclusions

Consumers are exposed to a vast range of compounds in the quest for a lighter skin tone. Several potential allergens, particularly fragrance allergens, are present in addition to the eight allergens that were identified with the Indian Cosmetic and Fragrance Series. Increased awareness of the composition of skin lightening creams available in the market and strict regulation of these creams is needed.

Skin Color, Cultural Capital, and Beauty Products: An Investigation of the Use of Skin Fairness Products in Mumbai, India

The use of skin fairness products that frequently contain toxic ingredients is associated with significant adverse health side effects. Due to the high prevalence of use in Asian and African countries, skin fairness product use is recognized as a growing public health concern. The multi-million-dollar skin fairness product industry has also been criticized for perpetuating racism and social inequalities by reinforcing beliefs about the benefits of skin fairness for cultural capital. No quantitative studies have assessed people’s beliefs about fairness and reasons for using or not using these products in India, one of the largest global markets for skin fairness products. The current study explored skin fairness product use among 1,992 women and men aged 16–60 years in the city of Mumbai, India using a self-report questionnaire. A total of 37.6% of the sample reported currently using skin fairness products, with women being two times more likely to use these products. Among current users, 17% reported past experiences of adverse side effects, and “Media/TV/Adverts” were the most common prompts for using fairness products, followed by “Friends” and “Family.” Men were significantly more likely than women to endorse beliefs about fairness being more attractive and were more likely to perceive family and peers as viewing fairness as beneficial for cultural capital. There were no differences between women and men currently using products in their desire to look as fair as media celebrities. Among non-users, women were significantly more likely than men to report concerns about product efficacy and side effects as reasons for non-use, while men were significantly more likely to report socioeconomic reasons for non-use. Implications of these findings are discussed in light of growing public health concerns about the use of fairness products, and potential for advocacy and public health interventions to address the use of skin fairness products.