Dietary Intakes and the Risk of Low Energy Availability in Male and Female Advanced and Elite Rock Climbers

Social media behaviors and body type ideals predict weight loss and food tracking behaviors among recreational climbers

Introduction

Elite and recreational climbers may be at risk for disordered eating, low energy availability (LEA), and increased injury as a result. Social media use among athlete and non-athletes can lead to body image disturbances resulting in unhealthy weight loss practices exacerbating LEA and injury risk. Therefore, the objective of this study was to examine relationships between social comparative behaviors on social media, body type ideals and outcomes, and health behaviors among adult recreational climbers.

Methods

Participants (n = 324) were adult recreational climbers from the U.S. (29.30 ± 9.99 years old and 50% female). Participants answered a 66-item questionnaire comprised of demographics, climbing characteristics, social media behaviors, body type ideals, training and nutrition-seeking behaviors, and weight and food tracking behaviors.

Results

Most participants (78.7%) indicated strength-to-weight ratio was important for climbing performance. Many participants perceived they could perform better at rock climbing if their body proportions were different (59.3%). These body type ideals were found to be significant predictors of performing weight loss and food-tracking behaviors (all p < 0.001). Higher amounts of social comparative behaviors on social media and social physique anxiety independently and significantly predicted attempting weight loss to improve climbing ability (p < 0.001 and p = 0.001 respectively). Those who followed climbing influencers, used Instagram frequently for training and nutrition information, perceived they could perform better at rock climbing if their body proportions were different, or were female and college-aged had significantly higher mean social comparative behavior scores (all p < 0.01).

Discussion

This study expands on prior work with elite climbers by providing a possible explanation for how climbing-related body type ideals and certain social media behaviors can perpetuate negative body image and compensatory behaviors among a general climbing population. Because unhealthy weight management behaviors can lead to injury and health disturbances, broad education programming and social media campaigns should be developed to shift body ideals and nutrition behaviors among recreational climbers.

Physiological Characteristics, Dietary Intake, and Supplement Use in Sport Climbing

PURPOSE OF REVIEW

As sport climbing has become an Olympic sport and keeps gaining in popularity, there is growing interest in the role of diet and the effect of dietary supplements on climbing performance. The aim of this review is to provide an insight into the dietary intake of climbers and discuss ergogenic aids that could improve their performance.

RECENT FINDINGS

Limited information is available regarding the dietary intake and eating habits of climbers, and the studies conducted are few and far between. The diet of climbers is apparently suboptimal, with inadequate energy intakes often owning to insufficient carbohydrate consumption. Likewise, supplement use and ergogenic aids for climbing performance are largely unexplored. Several ergogenic aids have been suggested to improve climbing performance; however, only two have been examined directly on climbing-specific outcomes. The dietary intake, eating behaviors, and supplement use in sport climbers are not well studied, and available information is most likely outdated. Considerably, more work is needed to determine which ergogenic aids can be beneficial for climbing performance.

2023 International Olympic Committee's (IOC) consensus statement on Relative Energy Deficiency in Sport (REDs)

Relative Energy Deficiency in Sport (REDs) was first introduced in 2014 by the International Olympic Committee's expert writing panel, identifying a syndrome of deleterious health and performance outcomes experienced by female and male athletes exposed to low energy availability (LEA; inadequate energy intake in relation to exercise energy expenditure). Since the 2018 REDs consensus, there have been >170 original research publications advancing the field of REDs science, including emerging data demonstrating the growing role of low carbohydrate availability, further evidence of the interplay between mental health and REDs and more data elucidating the impact of LEA in males. Our knowledge of REDs signs and symptoms has resulted in updated Health and Performance Conceptual Models and the development of a novel Physiological Model. This Physiological Model is designed to demonstrate the complexity of either problematic or adaptable LEA exposure, coupled with individual moderating factors, leading to changes in health and performance outcomes. Guidelines for safe and effective body composition assessment to help prevent REDs are also outlined. A new REDs Clinical Assessment Tool-Version 2 is introduced to facilitate the detection and clinical diagnosis of REDs based on accumulated severity and risk stratification, with associated training and competition recommendations. Prevention and treatment principles of REDs are presented to encourage best practices for sports organisations and clinicians. Finally, methodological best practices for REDs research are outlined to stimulate future high-quality research to address important knowledge gaps.

The Evaluation of Energy Availability and Dietary Nutrient Intake of Sport Climbers at Different Climbing Levels

Proper nutrition is the basis for athletes' performances when competing or training. The increasing training volume accompanying the increase in advancement should go hand in hand with the appropriate supply of energy as well as macro and micronutrients. The diet of climbing representatives due to the desire to achieve a low body weight may be deficient in energy and micronutrients. Our study aimed to evaluate the differences in energy availability and nutrient intake of female and male sport climbers at different climbing levels. Anthropometric parameters and the resting metabolic rate were measured, the questionnaire about climbing grade and training hours was filled, and a 3-day food diary was fulfilled by 106 sport climbers. Based on the collected data, the energy availability as well as the macro- and micronutrient intake was calculated. Low energy availability (EA) was observed among both genders of sport climbing representatives. A significant difference between EA in various levels of advancement was found in the male group (p < 0.001). Differences in carbohydrate intake (g/kg/BW) between sexes were observed (p = 0.01). Differences in nutrients intake between climbing grade were found in both the female and male groups. In the group of female elite athletes, the adequate supply of most of the micronutrients can imply a high-quality diet despite the low calorie content. It is necessary to educate sport climbing representatives about the importance of proper nutrition as well as the consequences of insufficient energy intake.

Accuracy of Resting Metabolic Rate Prediction Equations in Sport Climbers

Resting metabolic rate (RMR) represents the energy required to maintain vital body functions. In dietary practice, RMR is determined by predictive equations on the basis of using body weight or fat-free mass. Our study aimed to assess whether predictive equations used to estimate RMR are reliable tools for estimating the energy requirements of sport climbers. The study included 114 sport climbers whose RMR was measured with a Fitmate WM. Anthropometric measurements were performed with X-CONTACT 356. The resting metabolic rate was measured by indirect calorimetry and was compared with the RMR estimated by 14 predictive equations on the basis of using body weight/fat-free mass. All equations underestimated RMR in male and female climbers, except for De Lorenzo's equation in the group of women. The De Lorenzo equation demonstrated the highest correlation with RMR in both groups. The results of the Bland-Altman tests revealed an increasing measurement error with increasing metabolism for most of the predictive equations in male and female climbers. All equations had low measurement reliability according to the intraclass correlation coefficient. Compared with the indirect calorimetry measurement results, none of the studied predictive equations demonstrated high reliability. There is a need to develop a highly reliable predictive equation to estimate RMR in sport climbers.

The Low Energy Availability in Females Questionnaire (LEAF-Q) as a Useful Tool to Identify Female Triathletes at Risk for Menstrual Disorders Related to Low Energy Availability

BACKGROUND

Nutrition in sport is a priority; it is the basis for maintaining optimal health and a prerequisite for the high performance necessary for competitions. The aim of this study was to assess low energy availability and its possible consequences among female triathletes by using the Low Energy Availability in Females Questionnaire (LEAF-Q).

METHODS

The study involved 30 female triathetes. The LEAF-Q was used in the study. An analysis of the body composition was carried out with the seca device mBCA 515 medical Body Composition Analyzer.

RESULTS

Of the 30 female triathletes studied, 23.3% had a monthly cycle disorder, defined as an amenorrhea state for more than 90 days. No differences were found in injury rates or training days lost to injury due to menstrual disturbances. Menstruation changes were significantly greater due to increases in exercise intensity, frequency, and duration in the group experiencing menstrual disturbances (85.7 [95% CIs: 42.1-99.6] vs. 8.7 [95% CIs: 1.1-28.0]). The menstrual disorder group had a greater incidence of their periods stopping for more than 3 months than the group without menstrual disturbances.

CONCLUSIONS

The female triathletes did not show abnormalities in body weight or composition, and these were not related to the incidence of menstrual disturbances. However, 20% of the triathletes either had, at the time of the study, or had had in the past monthly cycle disorders that could indicate an immediate risk of low energy availability. The LEAF-Q identified 10% of the triathletes as at risk (score > 8) of low energy availability and the physiological and performance consequences related to relative energy deficiency in sports (RED-S).