A new dermocosmetic containing retinaldehyde, delta-tocopherol glucoside and glycylglycine oleamide for managing naturally aged skin: results from in vitro to clinical studies

Efficacy and Safety of Needle-Free Microjet Injection Versus Needle Injection of Botulinum Toxin for the Treatment of Crow's Feet: A Randomized Split-Face Pilot Study

BACKGROUND

Botulinum toxin is commonly used for cosmetic enhancements in various applications. However, the pain experienced during the injection process remains a significant concern.

OBJECTIVE

This study aimed to evaluate the effectiveness and safety of a needle-free microjet drug injector, powered by an Er:YAG laser, for the injection of botulinum toxin to treat crow's feet wrinkles.

METHODS

Botulinum toxin injections were randomly administered using a microjet injector on one side and a conventional needle injection on the other. The results were evaluated by two dermatologists, who were blinded to the treatment method. They used a 5-point scale to assess the severity of both static and dynamic crow's feet before and after the treatment. The participants' pain levels during the procedure were measured using a visual analog scale, and the physician/subject global aesthetic improvement scale (GAIS) was used to assess overall aesthetic improvement.

RESULTS

Ten Korean women (mean age, 50.7) participated in the study. Both sides exhibited significant improvement in crow's feet wrinkles compared to the baseline, with no noticeable differences between the two sides. The microjet injector side showed a significantly lower mean pain score, while there was no difference between the sides in terms of P/SGAIS scores. The evaluation of the wrinkle scale demonstrated high reliability.

CONCLUSION

The needle-free microjet drug injector, which utilizes an Er:YAG laser, may be a useful option for treating crow's feet wrinkles with botulinum toxin due to its ability to reduce pain.

Alpha-Tocopherol-Infused Flexible Liposomal Nanocomposite Pressure-Sensitive Adhesive: Enhancing Skin Permeation of Retinaldehyde

Retinaldehyde (RAL), or retinal, is a vitamin A derivative that is widely used for several skin conditions. However, it is light sensitive and has low water solubility, limiting its efficiency in transdermal delivery. This study developed a novel delivery system for retinal (RAL) using flexible liposomes (FLPs) infused with α-tocopherol succinate (α-TS) to improve stability, and enhance skin permeability. The RAL-FLPs were embedded in pressure-sensitive adhesive (PSA) hydrogels, creating a delivery platform that supports prolonged skin residence and efficient permeation of RAL. The stability and skin permeation as well as human skin irritation and adhesion capabilities were assessed to determine the formulation's safety and efficacy. Our findings suggested that the addition of α-TS could improve liposomal stability and RAL chemical stability. Moreover, the skin permeation and fluorescence microscopic-based studies suggested that the addition of α-TS could enhance skin permeability of RAL through hair follicles. The RAL-FLP was embedded in PSA hydrogels fabricated from 25% GantrezTM S-97 (GT) and 1% hyaluronic acid (Hya) with aluminum as a crosslinker. The PSA hydrogel exhibited desirable peeling and tacking strengths. The developed hydrogels also demonstrated greater skin deposition of RAL compared with its aqueous formulation. Additionally, the RAL-FLP-embedded PSA hydrogels showed no skin irritation and maintained better adhesion for up to 24 h compared to commercial patches. Hence, the developed hydrogels could serve as a beneficial platform for delivering RAL in treating skin conditions.

Senomorphic activity of a combination of niacinamide and hyaluronic acid: correlation with clinical improvement of skin aging

Intrinsic and extrinsic factors, including lifestyle and sun exposure, can contribute to cell senescence, which impairs skin homeostasis, that may in turn lead to skin aging. Senescent cells have a specific secretome, called the senescence-associated secretory phenotype (SASP) that includes MMPs, CXCLs and S100A8/9. Reducing the SASP with senotherapeutics is a promising strategy to reduce skin aging. Here we evaluated the effect of a formula containing niacinamide and hyaluronic acid, which are known to limit senescence and skin aging. We conducted three different studies. (1) Ex vivo explants treated with the formula had more collagen and glycosaminoglycan. (2) In a clinical trial with forty-four women, two months of treatment improved fine lines, wrinkles, luminosity, smoothness, homogeneity, and plumpness. (3) In a third study on thirty women, we treated one arm for two months and took skin biopsies to study gene expression. 101 mRNAs and 13 miRNAs were differentially expressed. We observed a likely senomorphic effect, as there was a decrease in many SASP genes including MMP12 and CXCL9 and a significant downregulation of autocrine signaling genes: S100A8 and S100A9. These pharmaco-clinical results are the first to demonstrate the senomorphic properties of an effective anti-aging formula in skin.

Top weapons in skin aging and actives to target the consequences of skin cell senescence

Skin aging has long been considered a purely cosmetic problem. However, as life expectancy increases, skin aging is taking on a functional dimension that goes beyond cosmetics and appearance. Preventive or therapeutic strategies are needed to target cellular senescence, a key process underlying the alterations in skin function and appearance that occur with aging, as well as to address the age-related skin changes associated with 'dermatoporosis' and chronic skin insufficiency/fragility syndrome. Thus, given the need for effective anti-aging products that improve both the appearance and function of the skin, it is essential to distinguish active ingredients that have been proven to be effective, among the large number of available over-the-counter cosmeceuticals. This brief review focuses on a core group of topical actives, describing their clinical effects on senescence and aging, and their molecular mechanisms of action. These actives include hyaluronic acid, which has hydrating and viscoelastic properties and has been shown to reduce skin atrophy; retinaldehyde, which activates retinoid receptors and increases cutaneous elasticity; vitamins C and E, which provide stable oxidative protection; and niacinamide, which reduces inflammation and mitigates the effects of senescence.

Unveiling the Nuances of Adult Female Acne: A Comprehensive Exploration of Epidemiology, Treatment Modalities, Dermocosmetics, and the Menopausal Influence

Previously considered a skin disease exclusively affecting adolescents, characterized by inflammatory and non-inflammatory skin lesions, acne vulgaris is now increasingly observed in adult life, including post-menopause. Today, adult female acne (AFA) is a common chronic inflammatory disease of the pilosebaceous unit, with polymorphic lesions presenting as open or closed comedones, papules, pustules, and even nodules or cysts, often with the presence of sequelae. AFA may persist from adolescence or manifest de novo in adulthood. Its etiology is multifactorial, involving genetic, hormonal, dietary, and environmental factors, yet still incompletely understood. Increased sebum production, keratinocyte hyper-proliferation, inflammation, and reduced diversity of Cutibacterium acnes strains are the underlying disease mechanisms. During menopausal transition, a relative increase in androgen levels occurs, just as estrogens begin to decline, which can manifest itself as acne. Whereas most AFA exhibit few acne lesions with normo-androgenic serum levels, baseline investigations including androgen testing panel enable associated comorbidities to be eliminated, such as polycystic ovarian syndrome, congenital adrenal hyperplasia, or tumors. Another interesting feature is AFA's impact on quality of life, which is greater than in adolescents, being similar to other chronic diseases like asthma. The therapeutic approach to AFA depends on its severity and associated features. This review investigates the intricate facets of AFA, with a specific focus on incidence rates, treatment modalities, and the curious impact of menopause. Utilizing insights from contemporary literature and scientific discussions, this article seeks to advance our understanding of AFA, offering new perspectives to shape clinical practices and improve patient outcomes.

Oral consumption of Bonito fish-derived elastin peptide (VGPG Elastin® ) improves biophysical properties in aging skin: A randomized, double-blinded, placebo-controlled study

BACKGROUND

Recent in vitro and in vivo studies have suggested that the elastin peptide improves the skin's biophysical properties, enhancing the proliferation of fibroblasts and elastin synthesis, resulting in anti-aging properties. Therefore, we conducted a randomized, double-blinded, placebo-controlled study to clinically evaluate the effect of elastin peptide intake on human skin.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Healthy adult participants (N = 100) were randomly assigned to receive a test product containing 100 mg of Bonito elastin peptide (VGPG Elastin® ) or placebo. In this study, all participants were Asian from Korea. The parameters of skin wrinkles, hydration, and brightening (melanin index) were measured at baseline and 4, 8, and 12 weeks after intervention.

RESULTS

The average skin roughness, maximum peak-to-valley values, maximum peak height of the wrinkle, maximum valley depth of the wrinkle, average maximum height of the wrinkle, and eye wrinkle volume improved considerably in the test group compared with the placebo after 12 weeks of intervention. Skin hydration was enhanced, and the melanin index was significantly lower in the test group than in the placebo group. No participant experienced adverse events related to the test product.

CONCLUSION

Oral consumption of Bonito elastin peptide (VGPG Elastin®) reduced fine wrinkles, enhanced skin moisture, and decreased melanin index without significant adverse effects and may be a promising anti-wrinkle, anti-dryness, and anti-pigmentation treatment.

Low-molecular-weight collagen peptides supplement promotes a healthy skin: A randomized, double-blinded, placebo-controlled study

BACKGROUND

Oral collagen peptides supplementation was reported to improve skin integrity and counteract skin aging.

AIMS

A randomized, double-blinded, placebo-controlled study was conducted to clinically evaluate the impact of low-molecular-weight collagen peptides on the human skin.

PATIENTS/METHODS

Healthy adult participants (n = 100) were randomly assigned to receive a test product containing low-molecular-weight collagen peptides or a placebo. Parameters of skin wrinkles, elasticity, hydration, and whitening (melanin and erythema indexes) were measured at baseline and after 4, 8, and 12 weeks.

RESULTS

Compared with the placebo group, the average skin roughness, maximum of all peak-to-valley values, maximum peak height of the wrinkle, and average maximum height of the wrinkle were significantly improved in the test group. Parameters of skin elasticity, including overall elasticity, net elasticity, and biological elasticity, were also significantly improved in the test group at Week 12 as compared with the placebo group. Moreover, skin hydration and whitening parameters changed more significantly in the test group than in the placebo group. None of the participants experienced adverse events related to the test product.

CONCLUSIONS

Taken together, these findings suggest that low-molecular-weight collagen peptides supplementation can safely ehance human skin wrinkling, hydration, elasticity, and whitening properties.

Natural Retinol Analogs Potentiate the Effects of Retinal on Aged and Photodamaged Skin: Results from In Vitro to Clinical Studies

INTRODUCTION

Plants are a source of natural ingredients with retinol-like properties that can deliver anti-aging benefits without the side effects typically associated with retinoid use. We hypothesized that by combining two such analogs, bakuchiol (BAK) and Vigna aconitifolia extract (VAE), with the potent retinoid retinal (RAL), the anti-photoaging potential of RAL could be enhanced without compromising its skin irritation profile. The purpose of this study was to demonstrate that BAK and VAE potentiate the anti-photoaging activity of RAL.

METHODS

Gene expression profiling of full-thickness reconstructed skin was first used to examine the impact of BAK or VAE in combination with RAL on skin biology. Next, the irritative potential of this combination, and its capacity to reverse key signs of photoaging in an ex vivo model was assessed. Finally, a proof-of-concept open label clinical study was performed to evaluate the anti-photoaging capacity and skin compatibility of a cosmetic formulation (tri-retinoid complex; 3RC) containing this complex in combination with other well characterized anti-photoaging ingredients.

RESULTS

In vitro profiling suggested that combining 0.1% RAL with BAK or VAE potentiates the effect of RAL on keratinocyte differentiation and skin barrier function without affecting its skin irritation profile. When formulated with other anti-photoaging ingredients, such as niacinamide and melatonin, 3RC reversed ultraviolet radiation-induced deficits in structural components of the dermal extracellular matrix, including hyaluronic acid and collagen. In vivo, it led to a reversal of clinical signs of age and photodamage, with statistically significant improvement to skin firmness (+5.6%), skin elasticity (+13.9%), wrinkle count (-43.2%), and skin tone homogeneity (+7.0%), observed within 28 days of once nightly use. Notably, the number of crow's feet wrinkles was reduced in 100% of subjects. Furthermore, 3RC was very well tolerated.

CONCLUSION

These data suggest that 3RC is a highly effective and well-tolerated treatment for photoaging.

Oral Supplementation of Low-Molecular-Weight Collagen Peptides Reduces Skin Wrinkles and Improves Biophysical Properties of Skin: A Randomized, Double-Blinded, Placebo-Controlled Study

Orally administered collagen peptides could contribute to antiaging by replacing the degraded extracellular matrix proteins caused by photoaging. This study aimed to evaluate the efficacy and safety of low-molecular-weight collagen peptides for treating photoaged and dry skin. In this randomized, placebo-controlled, parallel-group, double-blinded trial, we randomly assigned study participants (n = 100) to either the test product group or placebo group at a 1:1 ratio for 12 weeks. The wrinkle scale score, eye wrinkle volume, roughness parameters, such as the average maximum height of the wrinkle (Rz), arithmetic average within the total measuring length of the wrinkle (Ra), maximum profile valley depth of the wrinkle (Rv), and skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), overall elasticity (R2), and ratio of elastic recovery to total deformation (R7) were evaluated at baseline, 6 weeks, and 12 weeks. Safety assessments with serial blood tests were also conducted. Efficacy assessments of data from 84 participants were conducted as the per-protocol analysis. After 12 weeks, the 10-grade crow's feet photo scale score, eye wrinkle volume, skin roughness parameters (Rz, Ra, and Rv), skin elasticity (R2 and R7), skin hydration, and TEWL were significantly improved in the test product group compared to the placebo group. There were no adverse events or abnormalities according to laboratory analysis associated with using the test material during the study period. This study showed that the oral supplementation of low-molecular-weight collagen peptides could improve the wrinkles, elasticity, hydration, and barrier integrity of photoaged facial skin. This clinical study was registered with the Korean Clinical Research Information Service and International Clinical Trials Registry Platform (No: KCT0006500).

An ex vivo model of human skin photoaging induced by UVA radiation compatible with summer exposure in Brazil

Skin is the largest body organ and can be affected by several factors, such as ultraviolet (UV) radiation. UV radiation is subdivided in UVA, UVB and UVC according to the radiation wavelength. UVC radiation does not cross the ozone layer; UVB cause DNA damage and is closely related to carcinogenesis; UVA radiation penetrates deeply into the skin, reaching epidermis and dermis and is considered the main promoter of skin aging, known as photoaging. In order to understand photoaging mechanisms and propose efficient therapies, several photoaging study models have been developed, each with benefits and limitations, but most of them use very high doses of UVA radiation, which is not compatible with our daily sun exposure. The objective of this work was to develop a human ex vivo photoaging model induced by UVA exposure compatible to a summer in Brazil. For this, human skin fragments were obtained from healthy donors who underwent otoplasty surgery and skin explants were prepared and placed in plates, with the epidermis facing upwards. Skin explants were exposed to UVA at 16 J/cm² carried out by protocols of 2 or 4 exposures. Results showed an increase of oxidative damage, inflammatory cells, collagenolytic and elastolytic MMPs expression as well as a decrease of elastin expression, suggesting that the experimental model based on skin explants is able to evaluate UVA-induced aging in human skin.

Efficacy of a Dermocosmetic Serum Combining Bakuchiol and Vanilla Tahitensis Extract to Prevent Skin Photoaging in vitro and to Improve Clinical Outcomes for Naturally Aged Skin

Background

Skin aging is characterized by slacking and loss of density, especially under ultraviolet (UV) radiation exposure.

Objective

To investigate the beneficial effects of a combination containing bakuchiol (BK) and vanilla tahitensis extract (VTE) to prevent skin photoaging in vitro and to improve clinical outcomes for naturally aged skin.

Materials and Methods

Human dermal fibroblasts were treated with active compounds, exposed to an acute dose of UVA and analyzed by confocal microscopy: actin network for morphology, interleukin-8 (IL-8) for inflammation and p16 for senescence. Human skin was used to evaluate chronic UVA-induced glycosaminoglycan (GAG) loss and to assess the benefit of topical application of a BK+VTE serum (Alcian blue staining). An open-label clinical trial was conducted in women applying the serum twice daily for 56 days (n=43). Skin remodeling was assessed by FaceScan^®. Firmness was evaluated through Dynaskin^® and clinical scoring. Skin radiance was also rated on standardized full-face photographs.

Results

UVA induced a significant increase in IL-8 and p16 expression and marked morphological changes in fibroblasts. Treatment with BK or VTE alone prevented both actin network alteration and IL-8 upregulation. Interestingly, BK+VTE demonstrated synergistic protection against IL-8 and p16 overexpression. Serum application prevented GAG loss at the dermo-epidermal junction and increased dermal GAG in UVA-exposed skin explants. In the clinical trial, face ptosis was reduced by 11% on average for 26 responsive subjects and up to 23%. Depth of skin deformation was also reduced by 24% on average for 30 responsive subjects and up to 30%. This firming effect was confirmed by clinical scoring. Radiance was significantly improved by 29% on average for 33 responsive subjects. The serum demonstrated good tolerance/safety.

Conclusion

BK+VTE combination demonstrated anti-aging efficacy and might provide a substantial benefit in the daily care of naturally aged skin in women, through their synergistic effect on inflammaging and senescence.

In situ antioxidant activity of a dermo-cosmetic product: A randomized controlled clinical study

Ultraviolet light enhances the generation of reactive oxygen species that are responsible for skin photoageing. The aim of this randomized, vehicle- and active-controlled double-blind, intra-individual monocentric study was to evaluate in situ the antioxidant activity of a dermo-cosmetic product in photoaged skin. Twenty healthy volunteers had defined skin areas randomized to receive a topical product containing 3 antioxidants (pre-tocopheryl® , retinaldehyde and glycylglycine ole-amide), its vehicle and a positive antioxidant control cream. The products were applied daily for 30-day period. The skin areas were exposed to a controlled dose of UVA rays, and the skin oxidative status was evaluated 4 and 24 hours post-UVA exposure at D0 (basal value) and after 15 and 30 days of product application. Skin layers were collected by stripping, and antioxidant capacity was measured using the ferric reducing ability of a plasma assay. Lipid peroxidation (LPO) was assessed using the malonyldialdehyde test. The tested product significantly improved the skin antioxidant capacity after 15 and 30 days and significantly decreased the basal level of the skin LPO. The skin LPO level significantly decreased 4 and 24 hours after UVA exposure at 15 and 30 days. These findings were comparable to positive control treated sites and were significantly different from the vehicle and untreated sites. This minimally invasive methodology enabled a quantitative evaluation of potent antioxidant activity in situ in the stratum corneum reflecting real-life skin conditions and confirming the benefits of the topical application of a product containing 3 antioxidants in the prevention of UVA-induced oxidative damage.