Passive Enhancement of Retinol Skin Penetration by Jojoba Oil Measured Using the Skin Parallel Artificial Membrane Permeation Assay (Skin-PAMPA): A Pilot Study

Casting New Light on the Retinol and Retinyl Palmitate Functions as Chemical Enhancers for Transdermal/Topical Drug Delivery

Retinol and retinyl palmitate, with excellent whitening and antioxidant activities, are widely used as essential functional ingredients in transdermal preparations and skincare products. Herein, for the first time, the influence and underlying mechanisms of retinol and retinyl palmitate on the skin penetration of caffeine are investigated. It is found that the penetration of caffeine is very significantly enhanced by retinol and retinyl palmitate with 2.83 and 2.57 folds, respectively. Mechanistic studies showed that they can disrupt the lipids of intercellular orderly arrangement and reduce the content of orthorhombic lattices in the skin, making the skin loose and the barrier function decreased. Furthermore, due to the formation of chemical bonds with the skin keratin, they have a strong affinity with the skin, changing the dense secondary structure of keratin with a reduced skin barrier effect. This study provides new evidence for the potential of retinol and retinyl palmitate as novel skin penetration enhancers with high safety that possess great potential for application in the transdermal delivery of pharmaceutical and cosmetic active substances.

New Skin-Relevant Cell Coculture Model With Stratum Corneum-Like Layer

Two-dimensional (2D) cell culture is an important tool in the discovery of skin-active agents. Fibroblasts and keratinocytes, more rarely fibroblast-keratinocyte cocultures, are usually used for that purpose, where test compounds are added by mixing with the overlaying growth medium. However, such an approach is suboptimal because it lacks the stratum corneum component. The stratum corneum acts as a selective gatekeeper and opposes the intradermal permeation of many compounds that are bioactive when placed in direct contact with cells. One solution is to use reconstituted epidermis, but this approach is costly and time consuming. Here, a model is proposed, where the simplicity and convenience of the 2D cell culture is combined with the advantage of a hydrophobic barrier reminiscent of the skin horny layer. This model was tested with skin-relevant solvents, as well as with "naked" hydrophilic and encapsulated compounds. Cell viability and collagen stimulation were used as readouts. The results showed that the incorporation of a stratum corneum-substitute barrier on top of a 2D cell culture reduced the cytotoxicity of a common cosmetic solvent, dimethyl isosorbide (DMI), in cell culture and modified the bioactivity of the added actives (magnesium ascorbyl phosphate [MAP] and oligomeric proanthocyanidins [OPCs]/levan biopolymer), which became dependent on their ability to penetrate through a lipidic layer. Taken together, these results indicate a better physiological relevance of this cell culture model in workflows aimed at the discovery and analysis of skin-active compounds than conventional 2D systems.

Recreating Human Skin In Vitro: Should the Microbiota Be Taken into Account?

Skin plays crucial roles in the human body: besides protecting the organism from external threats, it acts as a thermal regulator, is responsible for the sense of touch, hosts microbial communities (the skin microbiota) involved in preventing the invasion of foreign pathogens, contains immunocompetent cells that maintain a healthy immunogenic/tolerogenic balance, and is a suitable route for drug administration. In the skin, four defense levels can be identified: besides the physical, chemical, and immune barriers that are inherent to the tissue, the skin microbiota (i.e., the numerous microorganisms living on the skin surface) provides an additional barrier. Studying the skin barrier function or the effects of drugs or cosmetic agents on human skin is a difficult task since snapshot evidence can only be obtained using bioptic samples where dynamic processes cannot properly be followed. To overcome these limitations, many different in vitro models of human skin have been developed that are characterized by diverse levels of complexity in terms of chemical, structural, and cellular composition. The aim of this review is to summarize and discuss the advantages and disadvantages of the different human skin models so far available and to underline how the insertion of a proper microbiota would positively impact an in vitro human skin model in an attempt to better mimic conditions in vivo.

Nutritional Supplements for Skin Health-A Review of What Should Be Chosen and Why

Supplementation of micronutrients is considered to be crucial in the reinforcement of the skin's barrier. In this paper, 14 nutritional compounds commonly used in food or pharmaceutic industries were analyzed in terms of influencing skin conditions. The major objective of this paper was to provide a narrative review of the available literature regarding several chosen compounds that are currently widely recommended as supplements that aim to maintain proper and healthy skin conditions. We conducted a review of the literature from PubMed, Scopus, and Web of Science until September 2023 without any other restrictions regarding the year of the publication. Ultimately, we reviewed 238 articles, including them in this review. Each of the reviewed compounds, including vitamin A, vitamin C, vitamin D, vitamin E, curcumin, chlorella, Omega-3, biotin,Ppolypodium leucotomos, Simmondsia chinesis, gamma oryzanol, olive leaf extract, spirulina, and astaxanthin, was observed to present some possible effects with promising benefits for a skin condition, i.e., photoprotective radiation. Adding them to the diet or daily routine might have a positive influence on some skin inflammatory diseases such as atopic dermatitis or psoriasis. Further, UV radiation protection facilitated by some supplements and their impact on human cells might be helpful during chemotherapy or in preventing melanoma development. Further research is needed because of the lack of clear consensus regarding the doses of the described compounds that could provide desirable effects on the skin.

Optical Methods for Non-Invasive Determination of Skin Penetration: Current Trends, Advances, Possibilities, Prospects, and Translation into In Vivo Human Studies

Information on the penetration depth, pathways, metabolization, storage of vehicles, active pharmaceutical ingredients (APIs), and functional cosmetic ingredients (FCIs) of topically applied formulations or contaminants (substances) in skin is of great importance for understanding their interaction with skin targets, treatment efficacy, and risk assessment-a challenging task in dermatology, cosmetology, and pharmacy. Non-invasive methods for the qualitative and quantitative visualization of substances in skin in vivo are favored and limited to optical imaging and spectroscopic methods such as fluorescence/reflectance confocal laser scanning microscopy (CLSM); two-photon tomography (2PT) combined with autofluorescence (2PT-AF), fluorescence lifetime imaging (2PT-FLIM), second-harmonic generation (SHG), coherent anti-Stokes Raman scattering (CARS), and reflectance confocal microscopy (2PT-RCM); three-photon tomography (3PT); confocal Raman micro-spectroscopy (CRM); surface-enhanced Raman scattering (SERS) micro-spectroscopy; stimulated Raman scattering (SRS) microscopy; and optical coherence tomography (OCT). This review summarizes the state of the art in the use of the CLSM, 2PT, 3PT, CRM, SERS, SRS, and OCT optical methods to study skin penetration in vivo non-invasively (302 references). The advantages, limitations, possibilities, and prospects of the reviewed optical methods are comprehensively discussed. The ex vivo studies discussed are potentially translatable into in vivo measurements. The requirements for the optical properties of substances to determine their penetration into skin by certain methods are highlighted.