Skin penetration and photoprotection of topical formulations containing benzophenone-3 solid lipid microparticles prepared by the solvent-free spray-congealing technique

Expert Systems for Predicting the Bioavailability of Sun Filters in Cosmetic Products, Software vs. Expert Formulator: The Benzophenone-3 Case

There are only a limited number of molecules in a cosmetic formulation, which can passively cross the stratum corneum and be absorbed into the skin layers. However, some actives should never cross the skin in large concentrations due to their potential for side effects, for example, sunscreens. Artificial intelligence is gaining an increasing role as a predictive tool, and in this regard, we selected the Formulating for Efficacy^® Software to forecast the changes in bioavailability of selected topical cosmetic compounds. Using the Franz diffusion cell methodology, various oils were selected as those with low release capability, and these were compared to those suggested by the software in Benzophenone-3-containing formulations. The software was able to predict the lipophilic phases, which, if utilized in the emulsion, were stable and sometimes even more pleasant in appearance and consistency than the reference emulsions prepared by the formulator. To date, however, Formulating for Efficacy^® Software still has limitations as far as predicting the hydrophilic phase, as well as not being able to choose the emulsifier or the preservative system.

MS imaging and absorption methods visualizing sun filter skin spatial distribution and penetration

Sunscreens must now be effective in protecting skin from ultraviolet, as well as visible/infrared radiation. Here, TriAsorB, a new broad-spectrum sun filter, was formulated with three other sunscreens and their distribution on human skin was studied using a standard penetration protocol and two novel mass spectrometry imaging techniques: atmospheric pressure matrix assisted laser desorption ionization (AP-MALDI) coupled to high resolution mass spectrometry and time of flight - secondary ion mass spectrometry (ToF-SIMS). The standard penetration protocol showed that sun filters absorption was very low, with most of the dose recovered at the surface (none entered the receptor fluid). Absorption was not increased in damaged skin. The results were confirmed by AP-MALDI and ToF-SIMS imaging of the spatial distribution of molecular species in cross-section samples of human skin. Each sun filter was detected on or in the stratum corneum, with a good homogenous coverage over the valleys and peaks of the skin, and correlated well with the distribution of endogenous biomarkers. In conclusion, conventional and novel imaging analysis methods showed that the sun filters remained mainly on the skin surface after topical application. Mass spectrometry imaging is a promising complementary approach to traditional skin penetration studies to visualize penetration of compounds.

In vivo β-carotene skin permeation modulated by Nanostructured Lipid Carriers

Nanostructured Lipid Carriers (NLC) were investigated with the purpose of promoting skin permeation of the highly lipophilic β-carotene (BC) across the stratum corneum (SC) barrier so that it may perform its antioxidant properties in photo-aging and epithelial skin cancer prevention. Two differently sized NLC samples were developed using stearic acid and squalene as lipid matrix and evaluated in comparison with Microstructured Lipid Carriers (MLC). The carriers were characterized for morphology, size, Z-potential, BC loading and release as well as physical state by means of DSC and XRPD analyses. In vivo penetration of the carriers was assessed on humans by determining BC concentrations within the SC stratum disjunctum and stratum compactum layers removed by means of the tape stripping test in comparison with pure BC. Unlike MLC and pure BC that were mostly retained within the outermost layers of the SC, the NLC sample having the smallest size (about 200 nm) has proved to penetrate more deeply into the SC barrier. Accordingly, the goal of providing β-carotene actions against oxidative damages within the looser skin viable tissues could be envisaged.

Unplanned absorption of sunscreen ingredients: Impact of formulation and evaluation methods

Permeation of sunscreens agents reduces its effectiveness and safety, leading to systemic circulation and causing unknown adverse effects. In order to maintain the sunscreen efficacy and safety, the filters must stay on the skin surface, with minimum penetration through dermis. Even facing the possibility of filters permeation, the use of sunscreen is important to avoid skin damage as erythema, free-radicals formation, skin ageing and skin cancer, caused by ultraviolet radiation. Aiming potential side effects caused by topical absorption of sunscreens, studies are carried to improve formulation characteristics and stability, reduce skin permeation and evaluate sun protections factor (SPF). Current assays to detect the permeation of sunscreens involve in vivo or in vitro studies, to simulate physiological conditions of use. The aim of this review is to revisit sunscreen skin permeation data over the last decade and the factors that can enhance skin permeation or improve the sunscreen efficacy.

Animal- free skin permeation analysis using mass spectrometry imaging

Here we demonstrate an animal-free skin permeation analytical approach suitable for testing pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, occupational skin hazards and skin allergens. The method aims to replace or significantly reduce existing in-vivo models and improve on already established in-vitro models. This by offering a more sensitive and flexible analytical approach that can replace and/or complement existing methods in the OECD guidelines for skin adsorption (no 427 and no 428) and measure multiple compounds simultaneously in the skin while being able to also trace endogenous effects in cells. We demonstrate this here by studying how active ingredients in sunscreen permeate through left-over human skin, from routine surgery, in a in a Franz-cell permeation model. Two common sunscreens were therefore applied to the human skin and Time of flight secondary ion mass spectrometry (ToF-SIMS) was used to trace the molecules through the skin. We show that that ToF-SIMS imaging can be applied in visualizing the distribution of Avobenzone, Bemotrizinol, Biscotrizole and Ethyl hexyl triazine at subcellular resolution in the skin. The UV-blockers could be visualized at the same time in one single experiment without any probes or antibodies used. The UV-blockers mostly remained in the stratum corneum. However, in certain features of the skin, such as sebaceous glands, the penetration of the UV-blockers was more prominent, and the compounds reached deeper into the epidermis.

Advances and controversies in studying sunscreen delivery and toxicity

This review critically evaluates the sunscreen delivery and toxicity field. We chose to focus on approved sunscreens in this review. Optimal sunscreen use prevents skin cancer and photoageing but there is an important knowledge gap in sunscreen/skin interactions. Sunscreen delivery is a key for efficacy, but studying sunscreen delivery is not straightforward. We review the strengths and weaknesses of in vitro, excised skin and clinical approaches. Understanding positive and negative sunscreen effects on skin homeostasis is also challenging. The results in this field, especially in vitro testing, are controversial and experimental design varies widely which further supports disparities between some findings. We hypothesize that bias towards showing sunscreen toxicity to increase impact could be problematic. We explore that perception through a detailed review of experimental design, especially in cell culture models. Our conclusion is that emerging, non- and minimally invasive technologies are enabling new approaches to volunteer studies that could significantly improve knowledge of sunscreen delivery and interactions.

Spray congealing: a versatile technology for advanced drug-delivery systems

Spray congealing is a low cost, simple and versatile method to produce microparticles without the use of organic or aqueous solvent. This review provides a detailed picture of the pharmaceutical applications of this technology, with an overview of the spray-congealed-based drug-delivery systems. First, the basic principles and equipment of spray congealing technology are presented. Then, representative examples of the drug-delivery systems are examined and critically discussed. Emphasis is given on the role of formulation variables, together with practical considerations for formulation design. In addition, the current status of the industrial applications of this technology within the pharmaceutical field is examined. The final part points out benefits, limitations and future perspectives of this technology in drug delivery.

A novel research model for evaluating sunscreen protection in the UV-A1

The use of a broad spectrum sunscreen is considered one of the main and most popular measures for preventing the damaging effects of ultraviolet radiation (UVR) on the skin. In this study we have developed a novel in vitro method to assess sunscreens efficacy to protect calcineurin enzyme activity, a skin cell marker. The photoprotective efficacy of sunscreen products was assessed by measuring the UV-A1 radiation-induced depletion of calcineurin (Cn) enzyme activity in primary neonatal human dermal fibroblast (HDFn) cell lysates. After exposure to 24J/cm² UV-A1 radiation, the sunscreens containing larger amounts of UV-A1 filters (brand B), the astaxanthin (UV-A1 absorber) and the Tinosorb® M (UV-A1 absorber) were capable of preventing loss of Cn activity when compared to the sunscreens formulations of brand A (low concentration of UV-A1 filters), with the Garcinia brasiliensis extract (UV-B absorber) and with the unprotected cell lysate and exposed to irradiation (Irradiated Control - IC). The Cn activity assay is a reproducible, accurate and selective technique for evaluating the effectiveness of sunscreens against the effects of UV-A1 radiation. The developed method showed that calcineurin activity have the potential to act as a biological indicator of UV-A1 radiation-induced damages in skin and the assay might be used to assess the efficacy of sunscreens agents and plant extracts prior to in vivo tests.

Effect of a quality-controlled fermented nutraceutical on skin aging markers: An antioxidant-control, double-blind study

The aim of the present study was to determine whether oral supplementation with a fermented papaya preparation (FPP-treated group) or an antioxidant cocktail (antioxidant-control group, composed of 10 mg trans-resveratrol, 60 µg selenium, 10 mg vitamin E and 50 mg vitamin C) was able to improve the skin antioxidant capacity and the expression of key skin genes, while promoting skin antiaging effects. The study enrolled 60 healthy non-smoker males and females aged 40-65 years, all of whom showed clinical signs of skin aging. The subjects were randomly divided into two matched groups, and were administered FPP or antioxidant treatment of a 4.5 g/day sachet sublingually twice a day for 90 days in a double-blind fashion. The parameters investigated were: Skin surface, brown spots, skin evenness, skin moisturization, elasticity (face), redox balance, nitric oxide (NO) concentration, and the expression levels of key genes (outer forearm sample). As compared with the baseline (day 0) and antioxidant-control values, FPP-treated subjects showed a significant improvement in skin evenness, moisturization and elasticity. The two treatments improved the MDA and SOD skin concentrations, but only the FPP-treated group showed a higher SOD level and a significant NO increase, along with significant upregulation of acquaporin-3 and downregulation of the potentially pro-aging/carcinogenetic cyclophilin-A and CD147 genes (P<0.05). Progerin was unaffected in both treatment groups. In conclusion, these findings suggest that orally-administered FPP showed a consistent biological and gene-regulatory improvement in the skin, as was also demonstrated in previous experimental and clinical trials testing other tissues, while common oral antioxidants had only a minor effect.

Scrolls: novel microparticulate systems for enhanced delivery to/across the skin

We describe the scroll system as a new microparticulate structured delivery system for enhanced delivery to/across the skin. The basic components of the scroll system are non-ionic surface active of the type of alkyl polyglycol ethers and a glycol. The unique structures are preserved with addition of various ingredients such as polymers, vegetable oils, pharmaceuticals, and permeation enhancers but are dismissed when amphiphile is withdrawn. The microparticles have a unique scroll structure with multiple "wrapping." Besides enabling superior permeation of drugs into/across the skin, the drugs delivered by scroll systems were more effective in vitro and in vivo compared to controls. Model drugs presented high entrapment capacity in scroll systems. The systems are stable over time and are safe for skin application. In order to form, they require a small number of ingredients, simple preparation method, and are environment friendly. The scroll systems may be new potential tools in the dermal/transdermal pharmaceutical and cosmetic industry.