1
|
Jacques C, Crépel F, El Assad D, Angerer TB, Bour J, Jeanjean-Miquel C, Redoules D, Bacqueville D, Pamelard F, Bessou-Touya S, Frache G, Duplan H. MS imaging and absorption methods visualizing sun filter skin spatial distribution and penetration. J Control Release 2022; 347:78-88. [PMID: 35490800 DOI: 10.1016/j.jconrel.2022.04.040] [Citation(s) in RCA: 2] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Affiliation(s)] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 09/22/2021] [Revised: 04/07/2022] [Accepted: 04/25/2022] [Indexed: 12/01/2022]
Abstract
Sunscreens must now be effective in protecting skin from ultraviolet, as well as visible/infrared radiation. Here, TriAsorB, a new broad-spectrum sun filter, was formulated with three other sunscreens and their distribution on human skin was studied using a standard penetration protocol and two novel mass spectrometry imaging techniques: atmospheric pressure matrix assisted laser desorption ionization (AP-MALDI) coupled to high resolution mass spectrometry and time of flight - secondary ion mass spectrometry (ToF-SIMS). The standard penetration protocol showed that sun filters absorption was very low, with most of the dose recovered at the surface (none entered the receptor fluid). Absorption was not increased in damaged skin. The results were confirmed by AP-MALDI and ToF-SIMS imaging of the spatial distribution of molecular species in cross-section samples of human skin. Each sun filter was detected on or in the stratum corneum, with a good homogenous coverage over the valleys and peaks of the skin, and correlated well with the distribution of endogenous biomarkers. In conclusion, conventional and novel imaging analysis methods showed that the sun filters remained mainly on the skin surface after topical application. Mass spectrometry imaging is a promising complementary approach to traditional skin penetration studies to visualize penetration of compounds.
Collapse
Affiliation(s)
- C Jacques
- Pierre Fabre Dermo-Cosmétique, Pierre Fabre R&D Center, Applied Research Department, Avenue Hubert Curien, Cedex 01, 31025 Toulouse, France.
| | - F Crépel
- Pierre Fabre Dermo-Cosmétique, Pierre Fabre R&D Center, Applied Research Department, Avenue Hubert Curien, Cedex 01, 31025 Toulouse, France
| | - D El Assad
- Luxembourg Institute of Science and Technology (LIST), Advanced Characterization Platform, Materials Research and Technology, 41, rue du Brill, L-4422 Belvaux, Luxembourg
| | - T B Angerer
- Luxembourg Institute of Science and Technology (LIST), Advanced Characterization Platform, Materials Research and Technology, 41, rue du Brill, L-4422 Belvaux, Luxembourg
| | - J Bour
- Luxembourg Institute of Science and Technology (LIST), Advanced Characterization Platform, Materials Research and Technology, 41, rue du Brill, L-4422 Belvaux, Luxembourg
| | - C Jeanjean-Miquel
- Pierre Fabre Dermo-Cosmétique, Pierre Fabre R&D Center, Applied Research Department, Avenue Hubert Curien, Cedex 01, 31025 Toulouse, France
| | | | - D Bacqueville
- Pierre Fabre Dermo-Cosmétique, Pierre Fabre R&D Center, Applied Research Department, Avenue Hubert Curien, Cedex 01, 31025 Toulouse, France
| | - F Pamelard
- ImaBiotech SAS, Parc Eurasanté, 885 Avenue Eugène Avinée, 59120 Loos, France
| | - S Bessou-Touya
- Pierre Fabre Dermo-Cosmétique, Pierre Fabre R&D Center, Applied Research Department, Avenue Hubert Curien, Cedex 01, 31025 Toulouse, France
| | - G Frache
- Luxembourg Institute of Science and Technology (LIST), Advanced Characterization Platform, Materials Research and Technology, 41, rue du Brill, L-4422 Belvaux, Luxembourg
| | - H Duplan
- Pierre Fabre Dermo-Cosmétique, Pierre Fabre R&D Center, Applied Research Department, Avenue Hubert Curien, Cedex 01, 31025 Toulouse, France
| |
Collapse
|
2
|
Jacques C, Rattier S, Bianchi P, Angerer TB, Frache G, Cattuzzato L, Perrin L, Villaret A, Duran V, Noharet J, Rouquier A, Bessou-Touya S, Bidan C, Duplan H. In vitro characterization and clinical evaluation of skin hydration by two formulations mimicking the skin's natural components. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol 2022; 36 Suppl 5:21-29. [PMID: 35315152 DOI: 10.1111/jdv.17900] [Citation(s) in RCA: 1] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.5] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Affiliation(s)] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 07/23/2021] [Revised: 12/01/2021] [Accepted: 12/16/2021] [Indexed: 12/16/2022]
Abstract
BACKGROUND We have developed innovative base formulations that were designed to mimic the skin with respect to its components and galenic structure. Components include water, proteins, lipids, sugars and minerals. OBJECTIVES We characterized formulations and their skin penetration using in vitro methods and evaluated their impact on skin hydration in a clinical trial. METHODS Scanning electron microscopy (SEM) imaging and X-ray diffraction were used to analyse formulations as well as formulation impact on the stratum corneum (SC) structure. Mass spectrometry imaging (MSI) was used to compare formulation ingredients with SC components and to detect their distribution in the skin. Clinical studies were performed to confirm effects on skin hydration and investigate potential adverse skin effects (irritation and sensitization). RESULTS SEM and X-ray diffraction of the formulations showed that lipids were organized in sheets similar to SC lipids. MSI demonstrated similarities between formulation components and skin constituents, as well as a good penetration into the skin. The formulations did not modify the lamellar organization of the SC lipids, but they increased the relative proportion of the crystallized lipids and some of the amorphous lipids. In in vivo studies, a high level of hydration was maintained over 24 h after application with an intense and 'very good hydration'. Both formulations were shown to be non-(photo)sensitizers with excellent tolerance. Sensorial evaluation indicated the formulations were not oily or sticky and maintained the skin's suppleness over time. Formulations had a 'nude skin' touch and created a natural protective film. CONCLUSIONS The two formulations were well-tolerated and increased skin hydration in clinical subjects, an effect that could contribute to the alleviation of sensitive skin. The formulations were shown to resemble the lipid organization of the stratum corneum, as well as penetrate the skin without disrupting the lipid lamella organization.
Collapse
Affiliation(s)
- C Jacques
- Pierre Fabre Dermo-cosmétique, Centre R&D Pierre Fabre, Innovation et Développement Pharmacologie, Toulouse, France
| | - S Rattier
- Pierre Fabre Dermo-cosmétique, Centre R&D Pierre Fabre, Innovation et Développement Pharmacologie, Toulouse, France
| | - P Bianchi
- Pierre Fabre Dermo-cosmétique, Centre R&D Pierre Fabre, Innovation et Développement Pharmacologie, Toulouse, France
| | - T B Angerer
- Luxembourg Institute of Science and Technology (LIST), Advanced Characterization platform, Materials Research and Technology, Belvaux, Luxembourg
| | - G Frache
- Luxembourg Institute of Science and Technology (LIST), Advanced Characterization platform, Materials Research and Technology, Belvaux, Luxembourg
| | - L Cattuzzato
- Pierre Fabre Dermo-cosmétique, Centre R&D Pierre Fabre, Innovation et Développement Pharmacologie, Toulouse, France
| | - L Perrin
- Pierre Fabre Dermo-cosmétique, Centre R&D Pierre Fabre, Innovation et Développement Pharmacologie, Toulouse, France
| | - A Villaret
- Pierre Fabre Dermo-cosmétique, Centre R&D Pierre Fabre, Innovation et Développement Pharmacologie, Toulouse, France
| | - V Duran
- Pierre Fabre Dermo-cosmétique, Centre R&D Pierre Fabre, Innovation et Développement Pharmacologie, Toulouse, France
| | - J Noharet
- Pierre Fabre Dermo-cosmétique, Centre R&D Pierre Fabre, Innovation et Développement Pharmacologie, Toulouse, France
| | - A Rouquier
- Pierre Fabre Dermo-cosmétique, Centre R&D Pierre Fabre, Innovation et Développement Pharmacologie, Toulouse, France
| | - S Bessou-Touya
- Pierre Fabre Dermo-cosmétique, Centre R&D Pierre Fabre, Innovation et Développement Pharmacologie, Toulouse, France
| | - C Bidan
- Pierre Fabre Dermo-cosmétique, Centre R&D Pierre Fabre, Innovation et Développement Pharmacologie, Toulouse, France
| | - H Duplan
- Pierre Fabre Dermo-cosmétique, Centre R&D Pierre Fabre, Innovation et Développement Pharmacologie, Toulouse, France
| |
Collapse
|