Complementary effects of antioxidants and sunscreens in reducing UV-induced skin damage as demonstrated by skin biomarker expression

Evaluation of the protection of sunscreen products against long wavelength ultraviolet A1 and visible light-induced biological effects

BACKGROUND

Long wavelength ultraviolet-A1 in combination with visible light induces hyperpigmentation, particularly in dark-skin phototypes. This study evaluated the efficacy of four sunscreen formulations in protecting against VL + UVA1 (370-700 nm).

METHODS

The test products (A-D) were applied to the back of 12 volunteers, then irradiated with 320 J/cm2 VL + UVA1 (3.5% UVA1 [370-400 nm]). Immediately after irradiation, and at Days 1, 7, and 14, erythema and pigmentation were assessed by investigator global assessment (IGA), colorimetry (Δa* and ΔITA) and diffuse reflectance spectroscopy (DRS)-measured relative dyschromia (area under the curve AUC). Control areas were irradiated without sunscreen.

RESULTS

Product D, containing titanium dioxide 11%, iron oxides 1%, and antioxidants, provided the highest and most consistent protection. Compared with unprotected irradiated control, it had statistically significantly less erythema on IGA, DRS (Δoxyhemoglobin), and colorimetry (Δa*) at Day 0; less pigmentation on IGA at all time points, on DRS (relative dyschromia) at Days 7 and 14, and on colorimetry (ΔITA) at Day 0. Product B, containing zinc oxide 12% plus organic UV filters, iron oxides 4%, and antioxidants, also showed some efficacy.

CONCLUSION

Of the sunscreens tested, the tinted products provided better protection against VL + UVA1 than the non-tinted products. Since the product with 1% iron oxides was superior to the product with 4% iron oxides, further studies are needed to evaluate whether iron oxide content correlates with better protection.

Influence of Caralluma adscendens Var. attenuata cold cream on UV-B damaged skin epidermal cells: a novel approach

Ultraviolet radiation-induced sunburns are characterized by pigmented, wrinkled, and dried skin, with rashes and red spots. Chemical sunscreen lotion shows beneficial effects, but it shows the adverse side effect while in continuous usage. Natural substances of plant origin are deemed a possible cause of UV radiation through sunscreen resources. On this basis, we formulated the cold cream from the Caralluma adscendens Var. attenuata (CAVA) plant extract. The phytocompounds were studied by using GC-MS. The antioxidant potential of the plant extract was determined, and the CAVA showed cytotoxicity on A375 skin melanoma cells determined by MTT assay. The FT-IR spectra analysis confirmed the chemical nature of crude and crosslinking between cold creams. The cream was applied topically to rats pre-exposed to UV-B radiation (32,800 J/m2) four times/week (on alternate days). UV-B exposed without any treatment rats showed increased red spots or wrinkles (5 cm2). In contrast, the cold cream treatment application on irradiated skin has significantly reduced the size of rashes and red spots and the wound was contracted in a dose-dependent manner. Furthermore, histopathology of the experimental rat skin confirmed that CAVA cream treatment significantly reduced the epidermal thickening, damage in dermis and epidermis layers, and restructured the hair follicles. This study suggests that the cream formulated using CAVA can alleviate the damages caused by the UV-B-irradiation at a high level and safeguard the skin tissues.

SUPPLEMENTARY INFORMATION

The online version contains supplementary material available at 10.1007/s13205-021-02694-y.

Can natural products improve skin photoprotection?

Abstract Due to increased UV radiation on the Earth’s surface, caused by depletion of the stratospheric ozone, people have become more susceptible to different types of skin damage, such as erythema, sunburns, and cancer; this is especially of concern in tropical countries. Thus, efforts to improve awareness as well as the use of sunscreen are increasing worldwide. However, synthetic UV filters have been associated with deleterious effects such as photosensitization. Natural products have been used by ancient cultures for several purposes, including protecting the skin from the sun. However, there is still doubt today whether photoprotection is a real phenomenom or whether it is simply tanning of the skin. Plants have self-protective mechanisms and produce secondary metabolites that can protect themselves from UV radiation. Yet, can phytochemical compounds protect human skin? This review discusses the paradoxical effect of chemical UV filters and the influence of phytochemicals in in vitro and in vivo tests of photoprotection.

Antioxidants in dermatology

The skin cells continuously produce, through cellular respiration, metabolic processes or under external aggressions, highly reactive molecules oxidation products, generally called free radicals. These molecules are immediately neutralized by enzymatic and non-enzymatic systems in a physiological and dynamic balance. In situations where this balance is broken, various cellular structures, such as the cell membrane, nuclear or mitochondrial DNA may suffer structural modifications, triggering or worsening skin diseases. several substances with alleged antioxidant effects has been offered for topical or oral use, but little is known about their safety, possible associations and especially their mechanism of action. The management of topical and oral antioxidants can help dermatologist to intervene in the oxidative processes safely and effectively, since they know the mechanisms, limitations and potential risks of using these molecules as well as the potential benefits of available associations.

Vitamin E inhibits the UVAI induction of "light" and "dark" cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers, and oxidatively generated DNA damage, in keratinocytes

Solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR)-induced DNA damage has acute, and long-term adverse effects in the skin. This damage arises directly by absorption of UVR, and indirectly via photosensitization reactions. The aim of the present study was to assess the effects of vitamin E on UVAI-induced DNA damage in keratinocytes in vitro. Incubation with vitamin E before UVAI exposure decreased the formation of oxidized purines (with a decrease in intracellular oxidizing species), and cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPD). A possible sunscreening effect was excluded when similar results were obtained following vitamin E addition after UVAI exposure. Our data showed that DNA damage by UVA-induced photosensitization reactions can be inhibited by the introduction of vitamin E either pre- or post-irradiation, for both oxidized purines and CPD (including so-called “dark” CPDs). These data validate the evidence that some CPD are induced by UVAI initially via photosensitization, and some via chemoexcitation, and support the evidence that vitamin E can intervene in this pathway to prevent CPD formation in keratinocytes. We propose the inclusion of similar agents into topical sunscreens and aftersun preparations which, for the latter in particular, represents a means to mitigate on-going DNA damage formation, even after sun exposure has ended.

Biobased Nanoparticles for Broadband UV Protection with Photostabilized UV Filters

Sunscreens rely on multiple compounds to provide effective and safe protection against UV radiation. UV filters in sunscreens, in particular, provide broadband UV protection but are heavily linked to adverse health effects due to the generation of carcinogenic skin-damaging reactive oxygen species (ROS) upon solar irradiation. Herein, we demonstrate significant reduction in the ROS concentration by encapsulating an antioxidant photostabilizer with multiple UV filters into biobased ethyl cellulose nanoparticles. The developed nanoparticles display complete broadband UV protection and can form transparent and flexible films. This system therefore shows significant potential toward effective and safe nanoparticle-based UV protective coatings.

Skin photoaging and the role of antioxidants in its prevention

Photoaging of the skin depends primarily on the degree of ultraviolet radiation (UVR) and on an amount of melanin in the skin (skin phototype). In addition to direct or indirect DNA damage, UVR activates cell surface receptors of keratinocytes and fibroblasts in the skin, which leads to a breakdown of collagen in the extracellular matrix and a shutdown of new collagen synthesis. It is hypothesized that dermal collagen breakdown is followed by imperfect repair that yields a deficit in the structural integrity of the skin, formation of a solar scar, and ultimately clinically visible skin atrophy and wrinkles. Many studies confirmed that acute exposure of human skin to UVR leads to oxidation of cellular biomolecules that could be prevented by prior antioxidant treatment and to depletion of endogenous antioxidants. Skin has a network of all major endogenous enzymatic and nonenzymatic protective antioxidants, but their role in protecting cells against oxidative damage generated by UV radiation has not been elucidated. It seems that skin's antioxidative defence is also influenced by vitamins and nutritive factors and that combination of different antioxidants simultaneously provides synergistic effect.