An update on cutaneous aging treatment using herbs

Recent insights into catechins-rich Assam tea extract for photoaging and senescent ageing

Tea (Camellia spp.) is an important medicinal herb. C. sinensis var. sinensis is the most studied tea variety due to its more preferred flavor than C. sinensis var. assamica (Assam tea), the less economic importance with more bitter variety. A bitter taste highlights its potential as a candidate source for tea catechins, the health beneficial actives applicable for ageing treatment. Nonetheless, indicative data for tea on UV-induced and senescent ageing remain unclarified. Assam tea extract (ATE) was prepared and standardized in terms of TPC, TFC and TTC. EGCG was HPLC quantified as the prime ATE catechin. In vitro antioxidant activity of ATE was exhibited with ABTS, DPPH and FRAP assays. ATE's cellular antioxidant activity was indicated in HDFs at a stronger degree than ascorbic acid. The photoaging protection of ATE was evidenced in a coculture of HaCaT cells and HDFs. ATE markedly suppressed UV-induced IL-6, IL-8, MMP-1 and MMP-9 expressions. The proficiency of ATE targeting on senescent ageing was demonstrated in an ex vivo human skin model, where IL-6 and MMP-1 expressions were suppressed, whilst hyaluronic acid and collagen syntheses were promoted. ATE was chemically stabled as indicated by the catechin contents and color parameters following 6 months storage under conditions recommended for topical product. ATE enriched in catechins warrants its applicability as a new generation of photoaging protectant agent promising for the prevention and treatment for senescent ageing. The findings indicate the proficiency of ATE for innovative anti-ageing agent.

The assessment of natural human skin tension orientation and its variation according to age for two body areas: Forearm and thigh

Human skin has a complex multilayer structure consisting of non-homogeneous, non-linear, viscoelastic and anisotropic materials subjected to in vivo natural pre-tension. This natural tension stems from networks of collagen and elastin fibers. The 3D organization of the collagen and elastin fibers underpins the multidirectional natural tensions in the skin volume while the state of the networks formed influences the surface topography of the skin. This topography depends on the area of the body and on the age of the person. Experiments reported in the literature have been performed ex vivo or on cadavers. By contrast, this work proposes the characterization of the anisotropic natural tension of the human skin in vivo. Experimental tests were performed on the forearms and thighs of 42 female volunteers representing two age groups [20 - 30] and [45-55] years old. Non-contact impact tests and skin-folding tests were conducted using devices developed at the LTDS (Lyon, France). The impact test generated a Rayleigh wave that spread in the skin. The speed of this wave was measured in 7 directions to study the anisotropy of the skin tension. The image of the skin relief at rest and during the skin folding test was reconstructed by optical confocal microscopy and provided the density of the skin lines printed on the outer surface of the skin. Skin folding test enables the clinician's manual procedure to be instrumented to identify tension lines i.e., Langer lines, for better healing during a surgical procedure. The main directions of natural skin tension deduced from the measured wave speed and the densities of skin lines were [40°-60°] for the forearm and [0°-20°] for the thigh, considering that the longitudinal axis of the body is situated at 90° and the transversal axis at 0°. This method shows the remarkable effect of age and body area on the mechanical behavior of human skin in vivo. The elastic properties and natural tension of the skin decrease with age. This decrease is greater in the directions orthogonal to the skin's tension lines, leading to the accentuation of the anisotropic behavior of the cutaneous tissue. The main direction of skin tension is highly dependent on the area of the body and is directed towards a preferred direction which corresponds to the main direction of skin tension.

Cordyceps militaris polysaccharides: preparation and topical product application

BACKGROUND

Topical product derived from the fungus Cordyceps militaris was explored as a feasible method for an industrial practice.

RESULTS

The mycelium residue of C. militaris that was industrial biotechnological produced was extracted with water at different time conditions under ambient temperature, filtered and lyophilized. The extracts were all light to dark brown powder. The 24 h extraction was significantly (p < 0.01) highest in an extractive yield and total polysaccharides content (TPC) (43.33 ± 0.99% and 144.02 ± 2.06 mg glucose/g crude extract). This extract was proved to be stable following an accelerated stability test with the insignificant (p > 0.05) reduction of TPC (4.95 ± 2.23%). Topical product containing the extract were developed. Skin care preparation containing 0.2% extract was exhibited as the appropriated amount giving the stable cream. The developed C. militaris polysaccharide cream was confirmed safe and gained more than 70% of the overall preferences examined in 20 female volunteers.

CONCLUSIONS

Cordyceps militaris mycelium residue is a beneficial source for pharmaceutical products. The C. militaris polysaccharides extract was prepared and qualified in terms of active content and stability. The extract was shown to be compatible with the available cosmetic ingredients. The safe and preferred C. militaris polysaccharides skin care cosmetics was developed. Accordingly, C. militaris polysaccharides skin care cosmetics that meets all the quality characters which are stable, safe, usable and efficient.

Advantages of Hyaluronic Acid and Its Combination with Other Bioactive Ingredients in Cosmeceuticals

This study proposes a review on hyaluronic acid (HA) known as hyaluronan or hyaluronate and its derivates and their application in cosmetic formulations. HA is a glycosaminoglycan constituted from two disaccharides (N-acetylglucosamine and D-glucuronic acid), isolated initially from the vitreous humour of the eye, and subsequently discovered in different tissues or fluids (especially in the articular cartilage and the synovial fluid). It is ubiquitous in vertebrates, including humans, and it is involved in diverse biological processes, such as cell differentiation, embryological development, inflammation, wound healing, etc. HA has many qualities that recommend it over other substances used in skin regeneration, with moisturizing and anti-ageing effects. HA molecular weight influences its penetration into the skin and its biological activity. Considering that, nowadays, hyaluronic acid has a wide use and a multitude of applications (in ophthalmology, arthrology, pneumology, rhinology, aesthetic medicine, oncology, nutrition, and cosmetics), the present study describes the main aspects related to its use in cosmetology. The biological effect of HA on the skin level and its potential adverse effects are discussed. Some available cosmetic products containing HA have been identified from the brand portfolio of most known manufacturers and their composition was evaluated. Further, additional biological effects due to the other active ingredients (plant extracts, vitamins, amino acids, peptides, proteins, saccharides, probiotics, etc.) are presented, as well as a description of their possible toxic effects.

Formulation and clinical evaluation of the standardized Litchi chinensis extract for skin hyperpigmentation and aging treatments

INTRODUCTION

The standardized litchi extract had been revealed on phytochemical actives, in vitro and cellular activities against aging and darkening of skin. However, a formulation containing the extract has never been developed as per clinical evaluated.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

The litchi serum was developed, safety and efficacy were clinically evaluated in human volunteers. The stable and none irritated 0.05 and 0.1% litchi serums were randomized-single blind placebo control clinical applied on the inner forearm of 29 volunteers for a consecutive 112 days and monitored by Mexameter® MX18, Cutometer® MPA 580 and Visioscan® VC 98.

RESULTS

Skin lightening efficacy of the 0.1% and 0.05% litchi serum was significantly (P<0.001 and P<0.05) higher than the placebo. Skin elasticity and wrinkle reduction was significantly (P<0.05 and P<0.005) achieved by the 0.1% litchi serum. The efficacy of litchi serums was confirmed by a split-face, randomized, single-blind controlled that the 0.1% litchi serum was significantly (P<0.05) better than the 0.05% one of all examined parameters.

CONCLUSION

Safety and efficacy of litchi extract are clinically confirmed for hyperpigmentation and aging of skin treatments.

Characteristics and in vitro anti-skin aging activity of gallic acid loaded in cationic CTAB niosome

Physicochemical characteristics and in vitro anti-skin aging activity of gallic acid loaded in niosomes were investigated. Gallic acid was loaded in neutral (Brij 52/cholesterol at 7:3) and cationic CTAB niosomes (Brij 52/cholesterol/cetyltrimethylammonium bromide at 7:3:0.65). The maximum loading capacity and entrapment efficiency of gallic acid were 3.5, 4.48 ± 2.10 in neutral and 50%, w/w, 10.94 ± 0.78% in cationic CTAB niosomes, respectively. All gallic acid loaded in niosomes showed the unilamellar structure under transmission electron microscope with size range of 131.23-508.03 nm at initial and after storage for 3 months. The highest remaining percentage of gallic acid at all storage temperatures after 3 months was about 77% when loaded in the cationic CTAB niosome, whereas gallic acid in solution was about 64%. The release profiles of gallic acid loaded in neutral and cationic CTAB niosomes revealed the gradual release in 24 h. The cytotoxicity of gallic acid loaded in neutral and cationic CTAB niosomes appeared the non-cytotoxic effect in B16F10 melanoma cells and human skin fibroblasts. The cationic CTAB niosome loaded with gallic acid demonstrated the highest anti-skin aging activity, including melanin suppression effect (55.92 ± 4.92% of control) by inhibition of tyrosinase (53.18 ± 3.67% of control) and tyrosinase-related protein-2 (24.61 ± 7.92% of control), antioxidant (87.03 ± 0.99% cell viability) and inhibition of matrix metalloproteinase-2 (38.46 ± 1.53% of control). This study has demonstrated the superior stability and anti-skin aging activity of gallic acid loaded in cationic CTAB niosome for potential utilization in pharmaceutical and cosmetic products.

Protective effects and mechanisms of Terminalia catappa L. methenolic extract on hydrogen-peroxide-induced oxidative stress in human skin fibroblasts

Background

Oxidative stress plays a crucial role in aging-related phenomenon, including skin aging and photoaging. This study investigated the protective role and possible mechanism of Terminalia catappa L. methanolic extract (TCE) in human fibroblasts (Hs68) against hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂)-induced oxidative damage.

Methods

Various in vitro antioxidant assays were performed in this study. The effect and mechanisms of TCE on oxidative stress-induced oxidative damage were studied by using western blotting.

Results

The IC₅₀ of TCE was 8.2 μg/mL for 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl radical scavenging, 20.7 μg/mL for superoxide anion radical scavenging, 173.0 μg/mL for H₂O₂ scavenging, 44.8 μg/mL for hydroxyl radical scavenging, and 427.6 μg/mL for ferrous chelation activities. Moreover, TCE inhibited the H₂O₂-induced mitogen-activated protein kinase signaling pathway, resulting in the inhibition of c-Jun, c-Fos, matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1, MMP-3, MMP-9, and cyclooxygenase-2 expression. TCE also increased hemeoxygenase-1 expression inhibited by H₂O₂. Finally, TCE was demonstrated reverse type I procollagen expression in fibroblasts after H₂O₂ treatment.

Conclusions

According to our findings, TCE is a potent antioxidant and protective agent that can be used in antioxidative stress-induced skin aging.

Electronic supplementary material

The online version of this article (10.1186/s12906-018-2308-4) contains supplementary material, which is available to authorized users.

Skin hyperpigmentation treatment using herbs: A review of clinical evidences

Hyperpigmentation of skin is caused by several factors. UV exposure, in addition to oxidative stress, elevates inflammatory mediators stimulating melanogenesis. Herbal-derived compounds for improving skin lightness are gaining interest as they are perceived to be milder, safer, and healthier than fully synthetic products. This review briefly addresses the causes of skin hyperpigmentation and extensively summarizes the status of herbs currently used in skin-lightening cosmetics. The properties of active compounds and their dose rate information are summarized where available, along with human or animal relevant models for activity testing. This review will be of value to cosmetic formulators and dermatologists who are searching for naturally derived ingredients for improving skin lightness, in line with consumer preference and expectations.

The 24-hour skin hydration and barrier function effects of a hyaluronic 1%, glycerin 5%, and Centella asiatica stem cells extract moisturizing fluid: an intra-subject, randomized, assessor-blinded study

Introduction

Moisturizing products are commonly used to improve hydration in skin dryness conditions. However, some topical hydrating products could have negative effects on skin barrier function. In addition, hydrating effects of moisturizers are not commonly evaluated up to 24 hours after a single application. Hyaluronic acid (HA) and glycerin are very well-known substances able to improve skin hydration. Centella asiatica extract (CAE) could exert lenitive, anti-inflammatory and reepithelialization actions. Furthermore, CAE could inhibit hyaluronidase enzyme activity, therefore prolonging the effect of HA. A fluid containing HA 1%, glycerin 5% and stem cells CAE has been recently developed (Jaluronius CS [JCS] fluid).

Study aim

To evaluate and compare the 24-hour effects of JCS fluid on skin hydration and on transepidermal water loss (TEWL) in healthy subjects in comparison with the control site.

Subjects and methods

Twenty healthy women, mean age 40 years, were enrolled in an intra-subject (right vs left), randomized, assessor-blinded, controlled, 1-day trial. The primary end points were the skin hydration and TEWL, evaluated at the volar surface of the forearm and in standardized conditions (temperature- and humidity-controlled room: 23°C and 30% of humidity) using a corneometer and a vapometer device at baseline, 1, 8 and 24 hours after JCS fluid application. Measurements were performed by an operator blinded for the treatments.

Results

Skin hydration after 24 hours was significantly higher (P=0.001; Mann–Whitney U test) in the JCS-treated area in comparison with the control site. JCS induced a significant (P=0.0001) increase in skin hydration at each evaluation time (+59% after 1 hour, +48% after 8 hours and +29% after 24 hours) in comparison with both baseline (P=0.0001) and non-treated control site (P=0.001). TEWL after 24 hours was significantly lower (P=0.049; Mann–Whitney U test) in the JCS-treated area in comparison with the control site (13±4 arbitrary units [AU] vs 16±6 AU). JCS fluid significantly reduced post-stripping TEWL in comparison with baseline after 1, 8 and 24 hours (−52%, −32% and −48%, respectively). In the control site, TEWL was not reduced in comparison with baseline values at each time point’s evaluation.

Conclusion

A single application of JCS significantly improves skin hydration for up to 24 hours at the same time as improving skin barrier function.

Jasmine rice panicle: A safe and efficient natural ingredient for skin aging treatments

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

While rice is one of the most important global staple food sources its extracts have found many uses as the bases of herbal remedies. Rice extracts contain high levels of phenolic compounds which are known to be bioactive, some of which show cutaneous benefits and activity towards skin disorders. This study highlights an assessment of the cellular activity and clinical efficacy of rice panicle extract, providing necessary information relevant to the development of new cosmetic products.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Jasmine rice panicle extract was standardized, and the level of phenolics present was determined. In vitro anti-aging, and extract activity towards melanogenesis was conducted in B16F10 melanoma cells, and antioxidant activity was assessed in human skin fibroblast cell cultures. Topical product creams containing the extract were developed, and skin irritation testing using a single application closed patch test method was done using 20 Thai volunteers. Randomized double-blind, placebo-controlled efficacy evaluation was undertaken in 24 volunteers over an 84d period, with the results monitored by Corneometer^® CM 825, Cutometer^® MPA 580, Mexameter^® MX 18 and Visioscan^® VC 98.

RESULTS

Jasmine rice panicle extract was shown to have a high content of p-coumaric, ferulic and caffeic acids, and was not cytotoxic to the cell lines used in this study. Cells treated with extract suppressed melanogenesis via tyrosinase and TRP-2 inhibitory effects, which protect the cell from oxidative stress at doses of 0.1mg/ml or lower. The jasmine rice panicle preparations (0.1-0.2%) were safe (MII=0), and significantly (p<0.05) increased skin hydration levels relative to baseline. Skin lightening, and anti-wrinkle effects related to skin firmness and smoothness were observed, in addition to a reduction in skin wrinkling. Improvements in skin biophysics of both 0.1% and 0.2% extracts were showed to be comparable (p>0.05).

CONCLUSIONS

Jasmine rice panicle extract having high levels of phenolics shows cutaneous benefits as the basis for skin aging treatments, as indicated through in vitro cytotoxicity assessments and skin testing in human subjects.

Antiinflammatory and Antiphotodamaging Effects of Ergostatrien-3β-ol, Isolated from Antrodia camphorata, on Hairless Mouse Skin

Ergostatrien-3β-ol (EK100), isolated from the submerged whole broth of Antrodia camphorata, has antidiabetic, hyperlipidemic, and hepatoprotective activities. However, the antiphotodamage activity of EK100 has still not been revealed. Inflammation and collagen degradation contribute to skin photodamage and premature aging. In the present study, in vivo experiments were designed to investigate the antiinflammatory and antiphotodamaging activities of EK100 in hairless mice by physiological and histological analysis of the skin. Results indicated that topical application of EK100 (25 and 100 μM) for 10 weeks efficiently inhibited ultraviolet B (UVB)-induced wrinkle formation, erythema, and epidermal thickness in the mice skin. EK100 also restored UVB-induced collagen content reduction in hairless mice skin. In addition, the immunohistochemistry results indicated that EK100 significantly inhibited the UVB-induced expression of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1), interleukin-6 (IL-6), inducible nitric oxide synthase (iNOS), and nuclear factor kappaB (NF-κB) in the mouse skin. The expression of these proteins was similar to the Normal group after 100 μM EK100 treatment. EK100 inhibited collagen degradation in the skin through MMP-1 inhibition and antiinflammation. EK100 significantly reduced the transepidermal water loss (TEWL), indicating that EK100 protected skin from UVB-induced damage. Our findings strongly suggest that EK100 has significant beneficial antiinflammatory and antiphotoaging activities and that EK100 can be developed as an antiphotodamaging agent.

Biopolymeric agents for skin wrinkle treatment

Skin aging is caused by several factors capable of deteriorating dermal matrix and is visibly noticed in skin color and skin contour deformities. In addition to the prevention of skin aging by application of antioxidants and sunscreens, treatment of skin wrinkles with those of dermal fillers is also recommended. Dermal filler products with enhanced injectability and longer duration are being developed continuously. Biodegradable polymers such as skin elastic fibers and dermal matrix mimetic used for treatment of skin wrinkle are summarized in this article. Additionally, the importance of amino acids, enzymes, and proteins in aesthetic of skin is addressed. Thus, elective agents are proposed for the dermatologists, cosmetic formulators, and the individuals facing skin aging problems. The candidate natural peptides from marine sources are additionally presented for widening the choice of actives application for treating aging.