Retinol: Safety Considerations for its Use in Cosmetic Products

Copper nano-architecture topical cream for the accelerated recovery of burnt skin

Skin burns are debilitating injuries with significant morbidity and mortality associated with infections and sepsis, particularly in immunocompromised patients. In this context, nanotechnology can provide pioneering approaches for the topical treatment of burnt skin. Herein, the significant recovery of radiation-damaged skin by exploiting copper ultrasmall-in-nano architectures (CuNAs) dispersed in a home-made cosmetic cream is described and compared to other noble metals (such as gold). Owing to their peculiar design and components, CuNAs elicit a substantial recovery from burned skin in in vivo models after one topical application, and a significant anti-inflammatory effect is highlighted by reducing cytokine expression. The treatment exhibited neither significant toxicity nor the alteration of copper metabolism in the target organs because of the CuNA biocompatibility. This study may open new horizons in the treatment of radiation dermatitis and skin burns caused by other external events.

Photo-co-carcinogenesis of Topically Applied Retinyl Palmitate in SKH-1 Hairless Mice

Cosmetic products that contain retinyl palmitate are popular as antiaging skin treatments; however, recent studies suggest a risk for enhanced skin tumor development with topical retinyl palmitate applications and exposure to solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR). In this study, we investigated the potential of retinyl palmitate to enhance UVR-induced photo-co-carcinogenesis. Groups of 36 male and 36 female SKH-1 hairless mice were exposed to simulated solar light (SSL) and treated with the control cream or creams containing retinyl palmitate, 5 days per week for 40 weeks. Other groups of mice were exposed to SSL and received no cream treatment or received cream treatments and were exposed to ultraviolet-A or ultraviolet-B. Mice were monitored for the development of skin tumors, and the incidences and multiplicities of squamous cell neoplasia were determined by histopathology. In both the absence and presence of SSL, mice administered the control cream developed skin tumors earlier and had higher incidences and multiplicities of skin squamous cell neoplasms than mice that received no cream treatment. Compared to the control cream groups, mice exposed to SSL and administered the retinyl palmitate creams demonstrated earlier onsets of skin tumors and had increased incidences and multiplicities of squamous cell skin neoplasms.

Levels of retinyl palmitate and retinol in the stratum corneum, epidermis, and dermis of female SKH-1 mice topically treated with retinyl palmitate

Retinyl esters are the storage form of vitamin A in skin, and retinyl palmitate (RP) accounts for the majority of the retinyl esters endogenously formed in skin. RP is also obtained exogenously through the topical application of cosmetic and skin care products that contain RP. There is limited information on the penetration and distribution of RP and vitamin Awithin the stratified layers of the skin. The purpose of these studies was to determine the time course for accumulation and disappearance of RP and retinol in the stratified layers of skin from female SKH-1 mice that received single or repeated topical applications of creams containing 0.5 or 2% of RP. We developed an HPLC method with detection limits of 5.94 and 1.62 ng, to simultaneously quantify the amount of RP and retinol, respectively, in skin samples. Our results showed that RP rapidly diffuses into the stratum corneum and epidermal skin layers within 24 h following the application of RP-containing creams. Of the three skin layers, the highest level of RP and retinol per weight unit (ng/mg) at all time points was found in the epidermis. Levels of RP and retinol were lowest in the dermal layer and intermediate in the stratum corneum. The levels of RP and retinol in the separated skin layers and in the intact skin decreased with time, but levels of RP remained higher than control values for a period of up to 18 days. Our results indicate that the application of RP to mouse skin alters the normal physiological levels of RP and retinol in the skin.

Efficient dermal delivery of retinyl palmitate: Progressive polarimetry and Raman spectroscopy to evaluate the structure and efficacy

Over the past decades, there has been a growing interest in dermal drug delivery. Although various novel delivery devices and methods have been developed, dermal delivery is still challenging because of problems such as poor drug permeation, instability of vesicles and drug leakage from vesicles induced by fusion of vesicles. To solve the vesicle instability problems in current dermal delivery systems, we developed materials comprised of liquid crystals as a new delivery vehicle of retinyl palmitate and report the characterization of the liquid crystals using a Mueller matrix polarimetry. The stability of the liquid-crystal materials was evaluated using the polarimeter as a novel evaluation tool along with other conventional methods. The dermal delivery of retinyl palmitate was investigated through the use of confocal Raman spectroscopy. The results indicate that the permeation of retinyl palmitate was enhanced by up to 106% compared to that using an ordinary emulsion with retinyl palmitate.

Endogenous retinoids in the pathogenesis of alopecia areata

Alopecia areata (AA) is an autoimmune disease that attacks anagen hair follicles. Gene array in graft-induced C3H/HeJ mice revealed that genes involved in retinoic acid (RA) synthesis were increased, whereas RA degradation genes were decreased in AA compared with sham controls. This was confirmed by immunohistochemistry in biopsies from patients with AA and both mouse and rat AA models. RA levels were also increased in C3H/HeJ mice with AA. C3H/HeJ mice were fed a purified diet containing one of the four levels of dietary vitamin A or an unpurified diet 2 weeks before grafting and disease progression followed. High vitamin A accelerated AA, whereas mice that were not fed vitamin A had more severe disease by the end of the study. More hair follicles were in anagen in mice fed high vitamin A. Both the number and localization of granzyme B-positive cells were altered by vitamin A. IFNγ was also the lowest and IL13 highest in mice fed high vitamin A. Other cytokines were reduced and chemokines increased as the disease progressed, but no additional effects of vitamin A were seen. Combined, these results suggest that vitamin A regulates both the hair cycle and immune response to alter the progression of AA.

Endogenous retinoids in the hair follicle and sebaceous gland

Vitamin A and its derivatives (retinoids) are critically important in the development and maintenance of multiple epithelial tissues, including skin, hair, and sebaceous glands, as shown by the detrimental effects of either vitamin A deficiency or toxicity. Thus, precise levels of retinoic acid (RA, active metabolite) are needed. These precise levels of RA are achieved by regulating several steps in the conversion of dietary vitamin A (retinol) to RA and RA catabolism. This review discusses the localization of RA synthesis to specific sites within the hair follicle and sebaceous gland, including their stem cells, during both homeostasis and disease states. It also discusses what is known about the specific roles of RA within the hair follicle and sebaceous gland. This article is part of a Special Issue entitled: Retinoid and Lipid Metabolism.

Cytotoxicity and mutagenicity of retinol with ultraviolet A irradiation in mouse lymphoma cells

Vitamin A (all-trans-retinol; retinol) is an essential human nutrient and plays an important role in several biological functions. However, under certain circumstances, retinol treatment can cause free radical generation and induce oxidative stress. In this study, we investigated photocytotoxicity and photomutagenicity of retinol using L5178Y/Tk(+/-) mouse lymphoma cells concomitantly exposed to retinol and ultraviolet A (UVA) light. While the cells treated with retinol alone at the doses of 5 or 10microg/ml in the absence of light did not increase the mutant frequency (MF) in the Tk gene, the treatment of the cells with 1-4microg/ml retinol under UVA light (1.38mW/cm(2) for 30min) increased the MF in the Tk gene in a dose-responsive manner. To elucidate the underlying mechanism of action, we also examined the mutational types of the Tk mutants by determining their loss of heterozygosity (LOH) at four microsatellite loci spanning the entire chromosome 11 on which the Tk gene is located. The mutational spectrum for the retinol+UVA treatment was significantly different from those of the control and UVA alone. More than 93% of the mutants from retinol+UVA treatment lost heterozygosity at the Tk1 locus and the major type (58%) of mutations was LOHs extending to D11Mit42, an alternation involving approximately 6cM of the chromosome, whereas the main type of mutations in the control was non-LOH mutations. These results suggest that retinol is mutagenic when exposed to UVA in mouse lymphoma cells through a clastogenic mode-of-action.

Physiological Role of Retinyl Palmitate in the Skin

The skin is similar to other organs in how it absorbs, stores, and metabolizes vitamin A. However, because of the anatomical location of skin and the specialized physiological roles it plays, there are ways in which the skin is rather unique. The stratified structure of the epidermis results from the orchestration of retinoid-influenced cellular division and differentiation. Similarly, many of the physiological responses of the skin, such as dermal aging, immune defense, and wound healing, are significantly affected by retinoids. While much is known about the molecular events through which retinoids affect the skin's responses, more remains to be learned. Interest in the effects of retinol, retinyl palmitate, and other retinoids on the skin, fueled in part by the promise of improved dermatologic and cosmetic products, will undoubtedly make the effects of retinoids on skin a subject for continued intense investigation.

Repeated topical treatment, in contrast to single oral doses, with Vitamin A-containing preparations does not affect plasma concentrations of retinol, retinyl esters or retinoic acids in female subjects of child-bearing age

BACKGROUND

Vitamin A is widely used in cosmetic preparations. Given that oral Vitamin A and its metabolites present a potential reproductive risk, the present study investigated the effect of topical Vitamin A on human endogenous plasma levels of Vitamin A and its metabolites.

METHODS

Two groups of 14 female volunteers of child-bearing age were kept on a Vitamin A-poor diet and treated topically for 21 days with creams containing 0.30% retinol or 0.55% retinyl palmitate on approximately 3000 cm2 of their body surface area, amounting to a total of approximately 30,000 IU Vitamin A/subject/day. After a 12-day wash-out period, the study groups received single oral doses of 10,000 IU or 30,000 IU retinyl palmitate (RP), corresponding to the maximal EU allowance during pregnancy or three-times higher, respectively. Blood samples were collected over 24h on study days -3 (pre-study), 1, 21 (first and last days of topical treatment) and 34 (oral administration) at 0, 1, 2, 4, 6, 8, 12, 14-16 h and 24 h after treatment for determination of plasma concentrations of retinol (REL), retinyl palmitate (RP), oleate (RO) and stearate (RS), 9-cis-, 13-cis-, all-trans- (AT), 13-cis-4-oxo- or AT-4-oxo-retinoic acids (RAs).

RESULTS

With the exception of transient mild (RP-group) to moderate (REL-group) local irritation on the treatment sites, no adverse local or systemic effects were noted. On days 1 or 21 of topical treatment, no changes were measured in individual or group mean plasma Cmax, AUC0-24 h or other pharmacokinetic parameters of REL, retinyl esters or RAs relative to pre-study data. In contrast, single oral doses of RP at 10,000 IU or 30,000 IU produced dose-related and sustained increases in Cmax and AUC0-24 h values of plasma RP, RO, RS, 13-cis- and 13-cis-4-oxo-RAs, as well as a transient increase in AT-RA. In conclusion, our results provide evidence that human topical exposure to retinol- or retinyl ester-containing cosmetic creams at 30,000 IU/day and maximal use concentrations do not affect plasma levels of retinol, retinyl esters or RAs, whereas single oral doses at 10,000 IU or 30,000 IU produce significant increases in plasma retinyl esters and RAs.

Cosmetics in the treatment of acne vulgaris

This article describes scenarios of patients who have acne vulgaris have tried over-the-counter products and cosmetics and are disheartened by the persistence of their disease and the resulting scars. They may have seen an aesthetician, plastic surgeon, or even a general practitioner before seeing a well-informed skin specialist. Patients perceive the dermatologist to be the skin care expert and seek guidance to obtain otherwise unobtainable results. Therefore, practicing dermatologists should take advantage of the available tools to treat patients aggressively and completely. Appropriately applied cosmetics can play a role in achieving this goal. This article describes scenarios that integrate cosmetics into an anti-acne treatment regimen that is effective and safe for all ethnic groups and is well tolerated by both male and female patients.

Photoreaction, phototoxicity, and photocarcinogenicity of retinoids

Sunlight is a human carcinogen. Many retinoid-containing cosmetics are used to protect damages caused by sunlight irradiation. Since retinol is thermally unstable and retinyl palmitate (RP) s relatively more stable, RP is also widely used as an ingredient in cosmetic formulations. In general, little is known about the photodecomposition of retinoids and the toxicity of retinoids and their photodecomposition products on the skin's responses to sunlight. This review focuses on the update information on photoreactions, phototoxicity, and photocarcinogenicity of the natural retinoids including retinol, retinal, retinoid acid (RA), retinyl acetate, and RP.